Category Archives: Modern History

The Liverpool Overhead Railway (aka the Dockers’ Umbrella) – 1893-1956

Carriage 3 of the LOR

Carriage 3 of the Liverpool Overhead Railway, preserved in the Museum of Liverpool

On a recent visit to the Museum of Liverpool on the Mersey waterfront, Carriage No.3 of the Liverpool Overhead Railway made a real impression. It is the only significant surviving artefact of the Overhead Railway, fully restored and displayed on a replica of the railway’s raised infrastructure.  It was one of the original 1893 carriages, and surrounding it on the first floor of the museum is a section dedicated to the Liverpool Overhead Railway (LOR).  Carriage No.3 is a glossy delight, and because it is displayed on an infrastructure reflecting its actual height of 16ft (4.8m) above the ground, it conveys some idea of how the Overhead railway originally looked, and how it acted as a sheltered walkway for the dockers moving between different docks and both company and administrative buildings on or near the waterfront.  The carriage is at the centre of a display about the Liverpool Overhead Railway in the museum.

Overhead Railway at the Liver Building

Overhead Railway running past the Port of London Building, the Cunard Building and the Royal Liver Building, sometime after 1917, with horse-drawn carts still very much in evidence. Source: Gutted Arcades

Of all the heritage losses in Liverpool, one of the most painful has to be the Liverpool Overhead Railway (LOR), affectionately known as “The Dockers’ Umbrella” or “The Ovee.”  The world’s very first overhead electric railway, it opened in 1893 with thirteen  stations, and was extended over the following, serving both workers and tourists. The Overhead was damaged a number of times during the Second World War due to its proximity to the docks, but it was always swiftly repaired.  The announcement of its closure was made in 1955 and in spite of considerable protest it was shut down in December 1956, and was dismantled from September 1957.

The railway ran the length of Liverpool’s docks, the earliest of which, built by Thomas Steers in 1715, is now known as “Old Dock” (the subterranean remains of Old Dock can now be visited – see my post here).  It initiated the steady growth of Liverpool’s docks in a chain along its long, relatively straight waterfront  This gently curving, linear chain was the key to the viability of a single passenger transport system that would help to integrate all the docks and, most importantly, relieve severe traffic congestion at street level.

A map of the Liverpool Overhead Railway

A 1930s map of the Liverpool Overhead Railway

 

Electric train on the LOR, 1902

Electric train on the LOR, 1902. Source: Wikipedia

The port of Liverpool was expanding and increasing amounts of cargo and passenger traffic were putting a strain on the waterfront transport infrastructure, which was becoming increasingly congested with horse-drawn vehicles including carts, buses, omnibus- trams, cabs and carriages, as well as trucks and lorries and two horse-drawn goods railways.  In 1850 alone 3.5 million tons of shipping entered Liverpool, entering docks that ran along a densely packed waterfront that by 1890 reach 7-miles, more than double the length from the 1840s.   Most of the dock shipping consisted of sailing ships but an increasing number of steam-powered vessels were making their presence felt and were slowly replacing sail, becoming all-important with the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869.  All vessels had to be offloaded and then reloaded with an onward cargo, nearly all moved by horse-drawn cart.  Huge numbers of dockers, labourers and craftsmen as well as ship passengers (including emigrants) and transient sailors were putting enormous pressure on the city’s transport systems.  As the docks continued to be built along the waterfront it was becoming more difficult to transport dock workers, administrators, labourers, local and foreign sailors and passengers (including significant numbers of emigrants until c.1920) to their respective docks, ships and warehouses, whilst office workers in buildings on the waterfront found it increasingly difficult to get to and from work, with the all-important Dock Road becoming the most congested road in Liverpool.

Elevated railway New York 1876

Elevated railway in New York 1876. Source: Wikipedia

An elevated steam railway in New York provided a suitable model for a transportation system that might help to solve Liverpool’s traffic problems, and was first proposed for Liverpool in 1853 by engineer John Grantham.  However, it was not until after the docks had expanded even further and the traffic congestion reached crisis point that the idea was revived by the Mersey Docks and Harbour Board and dock engineer George Lyster was sent to New York to inspect the elevated railways that had operated so successfully there since 1872.  Shipping magnate Alfred Holt, a former member of the Mersey Docks and Harbour Board, put his name behind the project and in 1882 George Lyster presented a convincing report to the Board, which decided to proceed with an overhead railway.  The initial Act of Parliament that enabled the work to proceed were the Mersey Docks and Harbour Board Acts of 1879, 1882 and 1887, the latter enabling a double line to be built after the Board of Trade refused consent to the initial, more modest proposal for a single line with passing  places.  This was followed by the incorporation of the Liverpool Overhead Railway Company (LORC) in 1888.  Sir William Forwood, who had been President of the Chamber of Commerce between 1872 and 1877 was placed in charge.  In 1889 the new company issued a prospectus issuing £450,000 in £10.00 shares.

Approaching James Street Station

Approaching James Street Station. Source: National Museum of Liverpool

Seaforth Sands. Source: Wikipedia

The approach to Seaforth Sands Station. Source: Wikipedia

The first task was to source land, and this was leased from the Mersey Docks and Harbour Board (MDHB) for a period of 999 years, after which the engineers Douglas Fox and James Henry Greathead were appointed to oversee the development of the new overhead railway.  Although New York had provided the initial idea for the LOR, its trains were steam-powered.  This was rejected in favour of an electric railway , which would avoid a number of difficulties associated with steam, including the weight of steam engines, the danger of falling oil, coals and sparks on people, horses and vehicles below as well as the risk of fire to warehouses and sheds, particularly those that contained highly flammable sugar, rum and cotton.  There was some precedent for electric services.  In America there were nearly 2500 miles of electric tramways in service, in England the first electric railway was the City and South London line in 1890, an electric tramway was working in Blackpool, and in Liverpool the Electric Supply Company had built a small electricity generating station in the area where Liverpool’s commercial and administrative offices were based, and this was very successful.

The LOR under construction.

The LOR under construction. Pall Mall Budget 1893. Source: British News Online

Work started in November 1889. Iron columns were erected and spans of the main infrastructure, based on iron girders, were pre-assembled in the yard.  The standard span length was 50ft, but other sections had to be adapted to the needs of the railway line. The structures had to be stiff to withstand the impacts of the moving carriages, and this was supplied primarily by steel decking that was riveted into position.  Each span was raised on to a trolley on the railway and lifted into place by an ingenious mobile gantry and its cranes, with the gantry moving along the route as the assembly took place.  Steel rail tracks were then bolted on to sleepers.  The rails were laid according to a standard gauge track, 4ft 8ins in width. As it was raised 16ft (4.8m) off the ground, it acted as an “umbrella” for pedestrians and vehicles, whilst roads and tramlines criss-crossed beneath it.  Four movable bridges were built into the plan, to allow tall loads to pass through the railway.

The moving gantry with a horse-drawn train beneath it.

The moving gantry with a horse-drawn train line beneath it. Pall Mall Budget 1th January 1893. Source: British Newspapers Online

 

Prime Minister Lord Salisbury turning on the electricity to the LOR

Prime Minister Lord Salisbury turning on the electricity to the LOR. From the Illustrated London News 11th February 1898. Source: British Newspapers Online

The build took four years, and when it was completed in January 1893 it had thirteen stations over an initial five mile route from Alexandra Dock in the north to Herculaneum Dock in the south and had its own electricity generating station at Bramley-Moore Dock.  The first official trip was undertaken by dignitaries on the 7th January 1893.  This was followed by a ceremony on 4th February to declare the Overhead Railway open, when no lesser personage that the the Prime Minister Lord Salisbury flicked the switch at the electricity generating station. The railway opened to the public on 6th March 1893.

Map of the Liverpool Overhead Railway in relation to the modern Metro rail line. Source: Wikimedia

Map of the Liverpool Overhead Railway in relation to the modern Metro rail line (click to enlarge). Source: Wikimedia

The LOR became an instant hit, an artery that connected all the docks along the waterfront.  It also connected all the important dock-related buildings that related to the docks, such as shipping companies, bonded warehouses, H.M. Customs, forwarding houses, provisioning merchants (supplying food to ships), hotels, hostels, pubs and other food and drink outlets, ship repair yards, transport depots, and stabling for horses.  It must have created a sense of integration and cohesion quite unlike that in any other British dock system.  The line was extended first in 1894 to Seaforth Sands in the north, partly to generate more income from residential areas in the evenings when the railway was under-employed in the more central areas, and to encourage an untapped tourist trade to the beaches beyond the docks (see below).  The LOR was extended again in 1896, this time to the south to Dingle at Park Road.  The Dingle station required the excavation of a new tunnel, its blocked entrance one of the last surviving features of the LOR, and was the only station on the line to have been underground.

The route was short, totalling just over seven miles, including its extension; its connections with other railways were unimportant, and its traffic was based on a very large number of passengers paying, on average, low fares . . . Compared with most railways, its customer base, rooted in the business of the port, was not so much changeable as positively volatile (Adrian Jarvis, 1996, p.6)

All of the overhead platforms required stairs from ground level.  Most of these were very basic, but the more popular stations, like Pier Head and Seaforth were more elaborate, with covered staircases and platforms. At Gladstone Dock Station there were two bridges over the track to enable people to change platforms.

Pierhead Station at the time of the station opening.

Pierhead Station at the time of the station opening, showing one of the movable bridges and a range of ships’ masts beyond. A horse-drawn tram can be seen under the LOR at left.  Illustrated London News, 11th February 1893. Source: British Newspapers Online

 

The earliest carriages were not pulled by a separate engine, because each carriage had its own engine installed.  Initially each train was composed of two carriages, each of which had a 60hp engine enabling a speed of 13 miles per hour.  The two powered carriages consisted of one 3rd class (for 40 passengers) and one 1st class (for 16 passengers).

 

An original illustration of the LOR carriage design

An original illustration of the LOR carriage design. Source: Grace’s Guide

 

Later on, a third carriage was added between the two powered ones with two 3rd class carriages flanking an unpowered middle one that was 1st class.  Combined, the three carriages could carry up to 140 people.  A single small steam engine named “Lively Polly”  was employed in the initial construction phases and was retained for maintenance work, including removal of ice from the tracks.

The curved seats made of wooden slats in 3rd Class

The curved seats made of wooden slats in 3rd Class were apparently very uncomfortable, but look great. Carriage 3 in the Museum of Liverpool

The carriages were manufactured in Birmingham by Brown, Marshall and Co.  Carriages like Coach 3 at the Museum of Liverpool were made of Burmese teak.  An initial order of 30 carriages was made for the LOR in 1892.  After the initial build they were sent to the Carriage Shed at Seaforth Sands for fitting with the electrics, with the motors installed under the floors.  Two classes were originally envisaged, a 1st and 2nd class but after 1905 only 1st and 3rd classes were employed to avoid confusion when the LOR joined forces with the Lancashire and Yorkshire Railway.

An advert for sightseers in the Museum of Liverpool. It is sensibly displayed behind glass, and as a result of the low light and reflections my photograph is very fuzzy, but clockwise from top left it advertises Mossley Hill Zoo (open between 1932 and 1938), the beach at Seaforth Sands, the docks themselves (“a wonder of the world”), and the River Mersey with all its exciting shipping traffic

As well as creating a transport link between the docks, corporate and administrative buildings and the residential areas of the city, the LOR provided sightseeing tours at weekends for Liverpool families.  Not only was the LOR initially a novelty, but it also provided superb views of the Mersey docks with all their cranes, masts and funnels, with ships of all shapes and sizes, from sailing ships to steamers, and from small tramp steamers to magnificent ocean liners.  The Liverpool Overhead Railway Company, with a keen eye to making the most of the railway, made arrangements with shipping lines for visitors with special tickets to enter the docks to visit some of the luxurious ocean liners that came into dock, providing local people with a sense of the unreachable, glamorous lifestyles of their fashionable passengers and of the far-off sophisticated and exotic places that the ships visited.

Seaforth Sands

Seaforth Sands. Source: Sefton Council Archives

The northernmost stop after 1894 was Seaforth Sands, and this gave access to the beaches to the north of the docks, providing a more conventional day out at the seaside with the day-trip staples of sand, sea and ice-cream.  Special tickets allowed dogs to board the trains for family outings.  Links from the LOR to tram routes allowed visits to tourist destinations both within Liverpool and further afield.

In 1901 Seaforth Sands was the first ever railway station in England to have an escalator (a “Reno inclined elevator”) installed in a roofed-in passageway from ground floor to platform level.  It had wooden slats 3 inches wide that were faced with India rubber, with each tread running on wheels in continual motion, with a handrail that moved in tandem.  Although escalators had been in use for some time in Manhattan, New York, it was only the second to be installed in the UK, after Crystal Palace in London, and the first used on a railway.  A lovely piece in the Journal of Commerce in 1901 argues both the health and cost benefits:

An ingenious estimate is that the average passenger climbs in the ordinary way of travel  on elevated roads some 24,000ft vertically per annum, thus spending 13 1/2 hours in climbing and expending 1.85 horse-power.  With the inclined elevator this will be avoided, and will result in longer life to passengers, thereby retaining their customer longer to the railway,

Sadly, it had to be taken out of service when it became a real hazard due to women catching their long dresses in the moving parts.

Tickets from the LOR. Source

Tickets from the LOR at the Museum of Liverpool

In 1902 the LOR was forced to respond when the previously horse-drawn trams were replaced by electrified trams, which also carried passengers into the shopping areas that were beyond the reach of the railway.  In fear of the competition, the company increased the speed of their trains by upgrading their engines from 60hp to 100hp.  After some time the running costs proved to be prohibitive, and the increased strain on rolling stock also raised concerns, so in 1903 the trains were slowed to a more cost-effective speed.  Other costs were incurred from the wear and tear on wheels due to the curve line, but this was addressed by the LOR’s General Manager and engineer E.J. Neachell who innovated an automated lubrication system that significantly improved their longevity.

“New signal for Electric Railways” Railway Times, 2nd March 1907

Another important innovation on the LOR in 1902 included an automatic semaphore signalling system to replace manual signals.  The company was the first railway to install an automatic signalling plant in Britain after it was approved by the Board of Trade in December 1891.  It came into service in March 1893.

In 1905, in another attempt to maximize revenue, a direct connection was made to the Lancashire and Yorkshire Railway’s North Mersey Branch at the far north of the LOR a through-train was run to Southport, and in 1906 a link was made to Aintree.  It was hoped that the direct through service might produce more passengers travelling first class.  Although the through-train service to Southport was never sufficiently successful, and ceased in 1914, passengers could still change from the LOR to the Lancashire and Yorkshire to travel to Southport, and the link to Aintree continued to be popular for race meetings.  By this time, just before the outbreak of the First World War, the LOR was carrying some 10 million passengers.  The railway continued in its role as a passenger service during the war years, but it also saw some changes, servicing the passengers from the troop and supply ships coming into dock.

The Three Graces: The Royal Liver Building at left, the Cunard Building in the Middle and the Port of Liverpool Building at right.

Some of the most remarkable of Liverpool’s buildings had to adapt to the LOR.  Sitting behind it, the striped White Star Line building was finished in 1898, five years after the opening of the LOR.  Even more dramatic than that iconic building, the waterfront was changed forever between 1907 and 1917, the trio of buildings known as “The Three Graces” were built after the LOR had been running for nearly a decade on the site of the 1777 George’s Dock, which was still in situ in 1893, but was in-filled in 1900.  The Port of Liverpool Building (the headquarters of the Mersey Dock and Harbour Board) was completed in 1907, the Royal Liver Building in 1911 and the Cunard Building in 1917. The LOR ran, uninterrupted, behind the new buildings. Other notable buildings that would have been in view of the Overhead Railway as Liverpool’s impressive waterfront continued to evolve  are the Art Deco style George’s Dock Building (1934) and the India Buildings (1932).

Bombing damage at James Street Station.

Bomb damage at James Street Station. Source: National Museums Liverpool

In the early years of the railway, both manned signal boxes at key junctions and automated semaphore signals were used.  An innovation was introduced in 1921 when Westinghouse coloured light signals were introduced.

During the Second World War the LOR continued to serve as a vital link between all the docks.  Due to its proximity to  the Liverpool docks, which were targetted by German bombers, the Overhead Railway was damaged during these raids several times.  James Street Station was almost levelled in 1942, for example, and Canada Dock Station was hit twice, but most of these attacks were at night and no trains were lost.  In all cases the bombed-out sections were brought back into service very quickly.  During repairs a bus service was introduced to transport passengers between stations either side of damaged sections.  As with many other services, for the first time women were employed in ticket offices and as conductors on trains to replace the men who went to war.  Standard maintenance was severely reduced during the war, and it is probable that this neglect was partially responsible for the financial difficulties in which the Liverpool Overhead Railway Company found itself after the war.

Source: British Newspapers Online

In 1955 the decision to close the Overhead Railway was made.  The announcement of the closure was made in the February of that year, and the authorities remained immovable, in the teeth of vocal public opposition.  The main reason was the rust corrosion of the iron and steel that carried the railway.  For a private company with limited resources, raising the estimate sum of over £2 million to renovate the railway was inconceivable for the Liverpool Overhead Railway Company in the post-war period, and the city authorities made the decision not to rescue it, whilst nationalization of the main railway companies in 1948 under the Transport Act 1947 excluded the LOR because it was not part of the main railway network.

The Liverpool Overhead Railway finally closed on December 30th in 1956 and the Liverpool Overhead Railway Company was forced into voluntary liquidation.  Demolition began at the south end of the LOR in 1957.  The iron bridges were all dismantled and purchased by scrap dealers for recycling.  The Liverpool Corporation provided a bus service to replace the railway.

Source: British Newspapers Online

 

Disappearance of the Overhead Railway.

Disappearance of the Overhead Railway, with the supports in the foreground and the railway being dismantled in the background. Liverpool Echo, 27th September 1957. Source: British Newspapers Online

Cap badge from the LOR

Cap badge from the Liverpool Overhead Railway. Source: Wikipedia

Final Comments

The Liverpool Overhead Railway was viable because of the arrangement of the docks along an almost straight waterfront.  As a comparison, London’s docks were dotted along the Thames in separate, discrete systems that spread inland on both sides of the river due to the extreme u-shaped bends, rendering them unsuitable for anything like the Overhead Railway.  Transport and communication between the different London dock systems was often laborious.  See the London and Liverpool dock maps below for comparison, showing the dramatic difference between the two systems, demonstrating how Liverpool’s waterfront development made the LOR a very suitable solution, creating a fluid means of carrying passengers between different docks and related warehousing, commercial and government buildings.

1904 map of the London docks by Edward Standford

1904 map of the London docks by Edward Standford

A map of the Liverpool Overhead Railway

A map of the Liverpool Overhead Railway in the 1930s, showing the layout of the docks

 

The Docklands Light Railway

The Docklands Light Railway. Source: Visit London

As well as being the world’s first electric elevated railway, the Liverpool Overhead Railway was the first to install an escalator, the first to introduce automatic semaphore signals and the first to introduce colour signalling lights.  As well as being important to local history, the Liverpool Overhead Railway remains an important part of British dockland history, partly because of its innovative approach as a feat of electrical engineering, with its ongoing committent to innovation, but also because of its role in Liverpool’s social and economic history.  It influenced many other elevated railways including London’s driverless Docklands Light Railway, which opened in 1987 to link parts of the newly developed financial centre in London Docklands with the City and the underground network.   In some ways, London’s Docklands Light Railway serves a similar function today, although with a lot less personality, linking business and commercial centres that need to be connected to each other and to the City.

Even though the LOR was demolished in 1956, its loss is still deeply regretted in Liverpool, with many local people who were children at the time retaining memories of how it looked and sounded.  The Museum of Liverpool has some recorded memories to listen to, and Peter Grant’s book (see Sources below) has compiled some excellent short accounts of people’s experiences.  My great-grandfather, who was a French sailor from Toulouse, was on shore leave in Liverpool after his ship docked in Liverpool when he met my great grandmother.  When his ship left, it left without him.  Following marriage, he settled into life in Liverpool, not as a sailor or docker but as a driver on the Liverpool Overhead Railway, reinventing himself as one of the many moving parts of Liverpool’s dockland infrastructure.  His was one of a great many lives shaped by the Liverpool Overhead Railway.

When the LOR was first built most of the road traffic was horse-drawn, but by the time it was demolished, only a few horses remained, and cars and trucks were the order of the day.  It seems inevitable that as lorries became bigger and more numerous in the following decades, a dockland-wide 16ft height limit would eventually have made transporting goods to and from the docks impossible, but it is a great shame that a portion of it was not preserved as a matter of heritage preservation.  One sympathizes with the Liverpool Overhead Railway Company, but the city council seems, with hindsight, to have been rather more accountable for failing to preserve a portion of the overhead railway for posterity.

Crosby Herald. 24 January 2002

Report about a personal archive about the Overhead Railway. Crosby Herald January 2002. Source: British Newspapers Online


Visiting

Museum of Liverpool

Museum of Liverpool

Given that the Liverpool Overhead Railway was demolished without leaving a single section in tact for heritage purposes, visiting might seem like a tall order.  There is, however, a section at the Museum of Liverpool devoted to the Railway, which preserves the last of the original 1893 LOR carriages, Carriage 3, and has been placed on a piece of replica railway infrastructure, 16ft above the ground just as the original was, to give a good sense of how it must have looked.  The museum is free to access.

The opening of the tunnel from Herculaneum Station to Dingle Station is still visible and there are also a number of truncated support uprights preserved where they were incorporated into sections of wall along the line of the old LOR.

 

Carriage 3, one of the original batch of carriages to be ordered

Carriage 3, one of the original batch of carriages to be ordered, now on display in the Museum of Liverpool

Sources

Stanley Swing and Lift Bridge

Stanley Swing and Lift Bridge. Pall Mall Budget 12th September 1893. Source: British Newspapers Online

The above is a massive simplification of a very complicated story, in which political agendas and competition with road-based systems were perhaps just as important as engineering considerations.  If you want the full story, I found Adrian Jarvis’s book the most useful, with a very insightful analysis of the Company’s financial challenges.  For a short history with some splendid photographs see Peter Grant’s book, produced for the Liverpool Echo.  The other titles listed also contributed very useful information, with C.E. Box’s being the most technical for those interested in engineering details.

Books and papers

Anon 1901. Inclined elevator at Seaforth. The Journal of Commerce, January 20th 1901, p.3

Bolger, Paul 1992.  The Docker’s Umbrella.  A History of Liverpool Overhead Railway. The Bluecoat Press

Box, Charles E. 1984 (Revised by Adrian Jarvis). The Liverpool Overhead Railway.  Ian Allan Ltd

Gahan, John W. 1982. Seventeen Stations to Dingle.  Countryvise / Avon-Anglia

Grant, Peter (compiler) 2011.  The Liverpool Overhead Railway.  Trinity Mirror Media

Jarvis, Adrian 1996. Portrait of The Liverpool Overhead Railway. Ian Allan Publishing

Neachell, E.J. 1916. The Liverpool Overhead Railway. The Railway News, 5th February 1916, p.231-232

 

Websites

The British Newspaper Archive
https://www.britishnewspaperarchive.com/home 

BFI
Liverpool Overhead Railway 1893-1956 (video)
https://replay.bfi.org.uk/video/d6a0f2a3-fa48-5487-b722-d0e2a4997aa7

British History Online
Liverpool: The Docks
https://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/lancs/vol4/pp41-43

Grace’s Guide to British Industrial History
Liverpool Overhead Railway
https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Liverpool_Overhead_Railway
1923 Visit to the Works
https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Liverpool_Overhead_Railway:_1923_Visit_to_the_Works

National Museums Liverpool Collections
Liverpool Overhead Railway
https://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/collections/social-history/overhead-railway

Wikimedia Commons
Liverpool Overhead Railway map
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c2/Liverpool_Overhead_Railway_map.png?utm_source=commons.wikimedia.org&utm_campaign=index&utm_content=original

Videos:

1) Liverpool Overhead Railway (including rare footage). A documentary about the LOR (37 minutes long)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xg0EAJ7OAk 


2) “Liverpool Scenes 1896”
begins in the city with a scene of milling horse-drawn trams, and then moves to the Overhead Railway where footage is taken from one of the carriages over the docks – wonderful to see all those masts.

 

3) Five-minute footage of the LOR in colour

 

The excellent Hooton Park Hangars Aircraft Museum on the Wirral

Comper Swift G-ACGL. The Comper Aircraft Company was based at Hooton Park in the inter-war years

With many thanks to the Heritage Open Days this year, I stumbled across this fabulous gem of an aircraft museum on the Wirral at Hooton.  Hooton Park Hangars, owned and run by Hooton Park Trust, is sited on a former aerodrome, where the First World War Grade 2* aircraft hangars have been restored and two interlinked hangars now house a museum of aircraft and aircraft engines as well as other means of transport, including a military helicopter, a Chester Corporation tram, bicycles, and a number of cars, as well as model aircraft and memorabilia.  There are steps leading up to the cockpits of some aircraft and in one case a ladder allows visitors to enter one of the cockpits, which gives a sense of the incredibly cramped conditions and the range of dials, levers and pedals that help to navigate the plane.  Visiting information is at the end of this post.  Much of the information on this post has been taken from information boards around the hangars, from volunteers who kindly chatted to me about the site, and the Hooton Park Hangars website’s history pages as well as from the sources listed at the end.

Example of some of the signage available (this for the Comper Swift shown above)

 

The 1788 Hooton Hall.

The 1788 Hooton Hall. Source: Lost Heritage

Hooton Hall was an estate owned by the Stanley family.  It was built in 1788 to replace the existing house built at the end of the 15th century by the 5th Baronet Sir William Stanley, who employed architect Samuel Wyatt for the task.  Seventy years later it had to be sold to pay off gambling debts and was bought by banker Richard Christopher Naylor who made various changes and added a racecourse.  He moved away in 1875 when the Manchester Ship Canal was routed through the parkland, but retained ownership of the house and land.  At the start of the First World War both the house and land were requisitioned by the Army, which converted the house to the hospital and built barracks on the racecourse.  The house was probably in a fairly abysmal state when it was knocked down in 1932, initially remaining in the ownership of the military before it eventually came into the hands of Hooton Park Trust.

Spitfire PR.XIX PM651

Propeller of VS390 Spitfire PR.XIX PM651, usually stationed at RAF Woodvale near Formby on Merseyside and restored by the RAF Museum at Cosford. It came to Hooton Park in April 2026.

As well as the hospital and barracks, several hangars were built on the Hooton Park site, now Grade 2* listed, originally as a plant for assembling American-built aircraft, but instead became a training centre for pilots destined for the Western Front.  The hangar in which the museum is located is single storey, 16 bays in length, with iron casement windows separated by brick uprights and with corner pylons of brick (one of which was extended upwards to become a fire watch observation post).  An interior arched brick arcade divides the hangar into two halves.  The corrugated roofs of each half were supported by Belfast roof trusses of latticed wood which collapsed over a decade ago, but have since been replaced by new Belfast trusses.  the hangars were built by Holland, Henna and Cubitt Ltd to a design by the Royal Engineers, whilst the roof trusses were built by D. Anderson and Co., Belfast. The training facility was closed in 1919 when the training facility was moved to RAF Shotwick.

In the inter-war years the aerodrome was bought by a Mr G.H. Dawson who rented space to the Liverpool and District Aero Club, which became one of the most successful in the country.  At the same time, the aerodrome also became the home for two air manufacturing companies, the Comper Aircraft Co. and Popjay Air Motors. In 1927 the aerodrome was purchased to become Liverpool’s main airport, in spite of being on the Wirral before moving to Speke on the other side of the Mersey in 1930, where it remains.

Hooton Park aircraft Hangar

Hooton Park aircraft Hangar on a chilly wet day, showing the brick elements and the 16-bay structure

At the outbreak of the Second World War Hooton Park became the base for 610 ‘County of Chester’ Squadron and in the 1940s it returned to its role assembling aircraft from the U.S. At the same time the Civilian Repair Organization was employed to inspect and overhaul existing aircraft.  The aerodrome was also used during the war as an important role in aerial reconnaissance with the goal of locating submarines.  In June 1946, No 610 Squadron reformed at Hooton and in 1949, 663 Squadron formed at the site.  Hooton Park finally closed as an aerodrome in 1957.  Subsequently Shell created a base at Hooton Park to carry out experimental work on car fuels.  In 1962, Vauxhall Motors purchased the site and based their motor works at Hooton Park.

Hooton Park Hangars roof collapse HootPkTrust

Hooton Park Hangars after the roof collapse, showing the wooden lattice trusses made in Belfast. Source: Hooton Park Trust

The Hooton Park Trust was founded in 2000 to restore the hangars, originally built during the Second World War where they served the RAF Hooton airfield.  This was not a lightweight project. The hangar roofs had collapsed in 2011 and just clearing the rubble cost £60,000, partly because of the asbestos used in the roofing material, which required special disposal measures.  The new hangar roofs were built with modern, durable materials using the same methods as the originals.  Do take the time to look upwards – the trusses are as attractive as they are impressive as you can see in the above photograph.  The aircraft and other vehicles are a fine mix of different types, a mixture of civil and military, all with some connection to the aerodrome or the use of the hangars after the aerodrome had closed.

Many of the aircraft in the hangars were supplied by the Hooton Park Trust, to which aircraft have also been loaned.  The Trust makes space in the museum available to the The Aeroplane Collection (TAC), first founded in 1962 so that they can both display and work on aircraft in the hangar.  On a visit you are very like to see both Hooton Park Trust volunteers and TAC members working on the aircraft in the museum. In 2024 several aircraft and other items were transferred to the museum following the closure of a display hall in the Manchester Museum of Science.

 

G-AFIU Parker CA-4 Parasol

G-AFIU Parker CA-4 Parasol

 

This is very much a living museum, with work constantly being carried out on the aircraft stored in the hangars.  As well as the volunteers who were on hand to answer questions, there were plenty of engineers in overalls with their heads bent over engines, engaging in restoration work.

G-EBZM Avro 594 Avian 111A

G-EBZM Avro 594 Avian 111A

Replica of BAPC.6 Avro Triplane

Replica of BAPC.6 Avro Triplane

Full scale replica of a Spitfire MK IX

Full scale replica of a Spitfire MK IX

Gloster Meteor painted to represent aircraft WH127 of 610 Squadron based at Hooton

Another example of signage in the museum, this providing information about the Meteor shown above

 

Cockpit of a Fairey Gannet T.2. Steps on the other side allow you to climb up and get a good look into the cockpit.

Inside the Faery gannet T.2 cockpit

Sikorsky R-4B Hoverfly

Sikorsky R-4B Hoverfly

G-ADAH DH.98A Dragon Rapide “Pioneer”

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G-EBZM Avro 594 Avian 111A

G-EBZM Avro 594 Avian 111A

Chipmunk 22

G-AOUO DHC.1 Chipmunk 22

As well as aircraft and engines there are also road vehicles, including a tram, bicycles and Vauxhall cars, all of which were contemporary with some of the aircraft in the hangars or were produced after the aerodrome had gone out of use.  The Shell Eco Car was a particularly surprising vehicle!

 

Chester No.4 tram

Visiting

The best source of visiting information is the Hooton Park Hangars website.  Opening days are usually to Saturdays and the last Sunday of the month, and different activities are available on the Sundays, so do check the website to see what is going on. There are events throughout the summer, and these are worth keeping an eye out for.  You can also find their social media presences on the website. There are toilets and a café on the site, although note that at the time of writing (September 2026) the café is only available on Sundays.  It is very easy to find by car, although parking is limited, and on a Sunday there is a vintage bus to take you from Hooton Station.  It is all on the flat, so very accessible for those with unwilling legs, and there is disabled parking. The museum closes for the season on 31st October, so you will need to get your skates on if you want to go this year.

Sources:

Much of the information on this post has been taken from information boards around the hangars, from the volunteers who kindly chatted to me about the site, and the Hooton Park Hangars website’s history pages as well as from the sources listed below.

Historic England
Northern General Service Hangar (Building 16) , Hooton Park Aerodrome
https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1075377?section=official-list-entry

Lost Heritage
Hooton Hall
https://www.lostheritage.org.uk/houses/lh_cheshire_hootonhall.html

Vintage Aviation News
Discovering Hooton Park Hangars: Northwest England’s Living Aviation Heritage Museum. By Ian Doyle
https://vintageaviationnews.com/aviation-museum-news/discovering-hooton-park-hangars-northwest-englands-living-aviation-heritage-museum.html

 

 

Walking at the magnificent Iron Age ‘Old Oswestry’ hillfort

This post looks at the walk around the hillfort and its ramparts, with its section of Wat’s Dyke at its foot, and lovely views across the landscape.  Parking details are at the end.

Old Oswestry from the southwest, via the footpath across the field from Gatacre car park

Old Oswestry from the southwest, via the footpath across the field from Gatacre car park

This makes a great day trip with a visit to the Whittington Castle (see Wikipedia), only 2.5km away to the east, or the market town of Oswestry just to the south (see the official Visit Oswestry site here).  It is free of charge to visit at any time, with one main parking area and a small lay-by.  See Visiting details at the end.

Signage from Old Oswestry

Signage from Old Oswestry. Click to expand.

Old Oswestry hillfort is a magnificent archaeological site and local landmark dating to the 4th to 7th centuries BC during the Iron Age with terrific views over the surrounding lowland landscape.  Seen from above the pentagonal shape is particularly distinctive, and you notice this whilst walking, as it is one of the few hillforts at which you reach corners.  It is also undulating – as you walk around the top you will notice that they path goes up and down, never at all steeply but just enough to draw attention to the varying levels.  If you keep looking across the plateau you will see that this too is undulating; sometimes you can see across it but at other times you can’t.  It is one of the most impressive and least-understood hillforts in the country, excavated only twice with sample trenches, with much more knowledge remaining to be discovered.

In April there are bluebells, celandines and wood anemones, and to keep the scrub down there are small herds of black sheep (Soay and Hebridean crosses) roaming the banks and ditches.  On my visit this August, just a few days ago, the long-term drought had left everything incredibly parched, and the plateau grass had died off.  Some of the young trees and shrubs were in fruit with red hawthorn berries, blackberries and dark purple alder berries. There had obviously been rosebay willowherb recently in flower, with its fluffy seeds catching the sun, and some gigantic thistles had recently gone over.  Otherwise, it was the bracken that was winning the fight against the drought, in spite of a fine herd of attractive black sheep.

Banks and ditches at the western entrance

Banks and ditches at the western entrance looking north

The site of Old Oswestry is built on a hill of clay, sands, gravels and mixed boulders left behind after the retreat of the last glacier, the whole thing lying on a bed of glacial clay.  You can see boulders underfoot as you walk around the perimeter of the plateau.  Old Oswestry is the largest of three similar hillocks, one of which is immediately visible to the south.  The hillfort was excavated in 1939 and 1940 with seven trenches cut mainly across the ramparts, followed 80 years by a small excavation of three trenches in 2021 and 2022, again across the ramparts.  The interior has never been subject to excavation.

Hillfort phases. Source: English Heritage

The earliest known occupants used the hillfort during the Neolithic, and left behind two polished stone axes and a set of worked stone tools.  The story of the archaeology of the Iron Age hillfort is complicated, but in essence it began with two banks that supported ramparts (defences built of stone), separated from each other by a ditch.  The first pair of banks and ditches followed the natural line of the hill, only interrupted by two entrances, on the east and west sides.  Over the 300 years that the hillfort remained in use, additional banks and ditches were added, in a less straight forward arrangement, causing the entrances to become corridors with banks along their sides.  In total, there are two banks on the eastern side, five on the southern side, four on the south and seven on the west where a complex of hollowed out depressions were added either side of the western entrance.  To date it is not known what the hollows were used for and they remain unique in Britain.  There are photos of them below.

Map showing Wat's Dyke and Offa's Dyke

Map showing Wat’s Dyke (brown line) and Offa’s Dyke (green line). Source: Keith Ray and authors on ResearchGate

The hillfort was incorporated by Wat’s Dyke, which arrives at the hillfort’s southern corner, and departs at its northern end, using the hillfort’s presence as a component of the linear boundary that extends over a 60 km (37 mile) stretch of the Welsh border built in the 8th or 9th century AD. It begins in Maesbury, just south of Oswestry and extends all the way to Basingwerk, near Holywell, on the north Wales coast, roughly parallel to Offa’s Dyke, but much shorter.  Although its purpose is currently a matter of speculation, it is thought to mark the border of Mercia in the west, and to be both a defensive and a symbolic structure, marking differences is political allegiance and administrative systems.  There is only one small part of it visible at Old Oswestry, at the southwest corner, but the line of the Dyke is marked by a line of hedgerow and trees that heads north from the hillfort.

Old Oswestry annotated

LiDAR view of Old Oswestry, with Wat’s Dyke (red arrows) and the craters and trenches (pink arrows) clearly visible. Click to enlarge. Source: Lock, Gary and Ralston, Ian. 2024. Atlas of Hillforts of Britain and Ireland: https://tinyurl.com/mputmk3d

In the LiDAR image of Old Oswestry to the right, Wat’s Dyke can be seen at the bottom left, where it meets the corner on a perpendicular on the southern side and extends from northeast corner of the hillfort, both visible as a shaded bank leading into and out of the hillfort.  The builders were obviously great pragmatists, making good use of a natural barrier in the landscape!

During the First World War, the interior of the hillfort enclosure was used for military training purposes, including the digging of practice trenches and setting off mortars and other explosive devices that left small craters in the top.  Marks of both the trenches and the craters are visible in some aerial photographs, and are visible in the LiDAR image right (click to expand).

The photographs are a mixture from April 2025 and August 2026, showing the difference between the well-watered spring and the long-term drought of 2026.

View from the foot of the west entrance

View from the foot of the west entrance to the west

View across the fields at the entrance to the hillfort

View across the fields at the entrance to the hillfort

The west entrance towards the plateau

The west entrance towards the plateau

 

From the bottom of the west entrance there is a shallow slope, with wide wood-framed stone steps to avoid mud slippage, leading up to the plateau.  Here, there is a walk that follows the circumference of the hillfort.

East side of the top of the hillfort

East side of the top of the hillfort. Note that this photograph was taken in April 2025; in August 2026 the plateau was completely parched, and a light yellow colour as in some of the photographs below.

The middle of the interior is fenced off for pasture most of the way round, although you can enter it at the eastern entrance, where you also get a good sense of how undulating the plateau actually is, even though it looks completely flat in aerial photographs.  At this point, as with many others, you cannot see from one side of the enclosed space to the other. Walking to the highest point of the plateau from the eastern entrance, up a slight slope, gives you panoramic views.

View across the eastern entrance towards the north

View across the eastern entrance towards the north in August 2026

The ramparts and ditches can all be explored freely, and these give an excellent idea, even after centuries of erosion, of the scale of the construction work that made up the site.  All of the rampart banks are so magnificently high that if you stand in the ditches, all you can see is the walls of the banks either side of you. It is in the ditches and on the side of banks, rather than along the plateau itself, that most of the wild flowers are to be found.

 

Across the top two banks and ditches to the view beyond

Optional stairways that lead across the banks and ditches from the circumference walk

Optional stairways that lead across the banks and ditches from the circumference walk, showing the surviving depth of one of the ditches

 

The line of Wat's Dyke

The line of Wat’s Dyke marked by the hedgerow and trees, heading north from the northern edge of the hillfort

 

April 2025

April 2025

Rosebay willowherb

Rosebay willowherb, August 2026

 

 

 

 

 

View east from the plateau

View east from the plateau

Perimeter walk around the plateau

Perimeter walk around the plateau

Upper and second ramparts

Upper and second ramparts looking west

Walking along the top of the second rampart

Walking along the top of the second rampart to the east

Walking to the west along the third rampart

The hollows at the west end are reached most easily from a black metal kissing gate on the north side (left, going up) on the slope from the western entrance.  This lets onto a single track footpath that passes at the bottom of the hollows and lets you get a sense of the scale of them, which is impressive.  The hollows on the other side of the footpath can also been seen, but are much smaller.  A footpath actually goes across the middle of them, but they are best seen from the second (looking down) or third ramparts (looking back).

One of the ponds or cells that you can see in the aerial photograph at the top of the page

One of the ponds or cells that you can see in the illustration at the top of the page, to the left of the west entrance as you go uphill, in April 2025. This was dry in the drought conditions of August 2026, but some of the hollows still had marsh plants at their edges.

Soft-stem bulrush growing around the base of the hollows even after a drought

 

 

Returning to the car via the west entrance

Returning to the car via the west entrance

 

The great bank at the base of the hillfort and the lesser bank below it

The great bank at the base of the hillfort and the lesser bank below it

The Tudor “Park Hall,” which burned down in 1918.  Source: Lost Heritage website

The hillfort itself is dramatic and breathtaking, but the surrounding landscape also bears unmistakeable signs of Oswestry’s heritage, whilst beneath the fields there may well be more of the area’s prehistory to uncover.  The hillfort used to part of the Park Hall estate, which once had one of England’s most impressive Tudor houses at its core before it tragically burned down in 1918.  The Oldport Farm immediately below the hillfort on its southeastern side dates at least to the 17th century, and perhaps earlier, and the fields retain the imprint of much earlier agricultural heritage.  During the First World War both the centre of the hillfort and other places in the vicinity, was used for digging practice trenches, both a chilling and touching reminder of the realities of the war.  A Prisoner of War Camp and cemetery were both established nearby.  There are even glimpses of the impact of the Industrial Revolution from the top of the hillfort, with the 19th century railway and Thomas Telford’s A5.

If you are looking for a great place for a short walk that focuses on a splendidly impressive and nationally important site, this should not be missed.  The walk can be extended via other footpaths, or can be combined with a visit to Oswestry itself, which is a very attractive market town.  You can download the Visit Oswestry’s Heritage Trail here.

The site was owned by Lord Harlech until 1946 when he handed it over to the state, and it is now the responsibility of English Heritage.

 

Sketchfab 3-D interactive model of Old Oswestry Hillfort.

Sketchfab 3-D interactive model of Old Oswestry Hillfort. Click here to go to the Sketchfab page.

Visiting 

The route to Old Oswestry Hillfort, showing the main parking area at Gatacre car park, as well as the lay-by at the foot of the west entrance.  Source: Old Oswestry Hillfort website – visiting page

The site is managed by English Heritage and it is free of charge to visit at any time, with one main parking area a five minute walk away from the hillfort, and a small lay-by.  There is brown heritage signage from the A5, which takes you through a residential area to the Gatacre Playing Field car park where there is plenty of parking (What3Words ///spray.funky.tasters).  There is also a layby with room for four or five cars.  Both parking areas are shown on the map produced by the Old Oswestry Hillfort website.

From Gatacre Playing Field car park showing the field route and the lane route to the western entrance to the hillfort.

From Gatacre Playing Field car park showing the field route and the lane route to the western entrance to the hillfort. Source: What3Words

I always park at the Gatacre car park because there is always plenty of room and it is only a five minute walk from the hillfort’s west entrance (the main access route to the hillfort).  The route to the hillfort is all on the flat, along a metalled path and a small, very quiet lane.

If it hasn’t  been raining, there is an even shorter route if you use the footpath (Oswald’s Way) from just beyond the car park to cut across the field – this was a gorgeous vista of sunflowers in August 2026, and would probably be even more sunflower-intensive in years that have had a bit of rainfall.

There are no facilities at the hillfort of any description, but there are plenty within Oswestry itself, only a short drive (less than two miles / 3.5km) from the site, or at Whittington Castle to the east.

The west entrance is a long, shallow slope now provided with long wood-framed steps lined with stone to protect visitors from muddy conditions, that leads up to the top.  At the top, there is a footpath all around the plateau.  The western and eastern entrances also offer access via gates and footpaths to the lower banks and ditches as well as the puzzling hollows that flank the west entrance.  Note that sheep roam the banks and ditches, so gates must be closed and dogs must be kept on leads.

Bracken on the banks and ditches at the northwestern corner of the hillfort

Bracken on the banks and ditches at the northwestern corner of the hillfort

Although the entire plateau walk is a nice easy stroll all the way around, well-worn by dog walkers, some of the lower ramparts are more challenging.  Most of the hillfort walks along banks and ditches are very easy to access on the south and west sides, but bracken can be a perpetual problem on some of the ramparts and ditches beneath the plateau on the north and east sides of the hillfort, particularly in the summer.  It seriously impedes passage, as well as potentially doing significant damage to archaeological deposits, whilst its density eliminates other species, significantly reducing biodiversity. Love it or hate it, one has to admire the tenacity of bracken under such extreme conditions. Both volunteer work and sheep are combining to reduce the impact of such invasive species, managing the site for the benefit of biodiversity, the archaeology and visitors.  If you find one of the rampart or ditch walks a bit of a struggle, there are plenty of others to try.

There are plenty of well thought out information signs along the course of the west entrance as well as on the footpath around the top, providing details about the archaeology and history of the site.

The walk can be extended via other footpaths.  For example the diagonal route across the field from the car park to the hillfort’s west entrance is part of Oswald’s Trail, a 12 mile / 13 km circular walk about which you can read more on the Shropshire’s Great Outdoors website. Or it can be combined with a visit to Oswestry itself, which is a very attractive market town.  You can download the Visit Oswestry’s Heritage Trail here.

View from the hillfort to Oswestry

View from the hillfort towards Oswestry

Sunflowers on the path across the field from Gatacre Playing Fields to the western entrance of the hillfort

Sunflowers on the path across the field from Gatacre Playing Fields to the western entrance of the hillfort

 

Artist's reconstruction of Old Oswestry Hillfort, based on the discovery of two roundhouses. By Ivan Lapper.

Artist’s reconstruction of Old Oswestry Hillfort based on the surviving earthworks and entrances and the discovery during excavations of the ephemeral remains of two roundhouses. There are no ramparts shown on top of the banks, but the illustration gives a sense of how the interior might have looked, and how the east entrance may have been configured. By Ivan Lapper. Source: English Heritage

 

World Elephant Day: Elephants of Chester from the 14th Century to the Present Day

The Chester Cathedral Elephant

The superb Chester Cathedral Elephant

To celebrate World Elephant Day, Chester boasts splendid elephants in Upton at the zoo, as well as a medieval wooden carving in Chester Cathedral, a bronze sculpture opposite the Northgate visitor centre, and fluffy, cuddly elephant toys in the Northgate market hall.

The earliest and most venerable of our pachyderm residents is the 14th century elephant in the Chester Cathedral choir (or quire), incorporated into a bench-end in the choir.  It was part of the development in around 1380 of a new choir for St Werburgh’s Abbey, when it was still a Benedictine monastery.   Many of Chester Cathedral’s misericords (carved hinged choir perches) were based on those at Lincoln Cathedral, but whatever the Lincoln carvers brought with the my way of the weird and the wonderful (and there is plenty of both in the Chester and Lincoln misericords), elephants were not among the imported designs, as there are no elephants in Lincoln’s choir. Several of the bench-ends are Victorian, but this is original.  The choir is generally open to the public to visit, unless it is use for a musical event, and all of the carvings are magnificent.  Even the Victorian replacements are very well done.

Elephant and wyvern. early 13th century, nature and myth entangles. Royal MS12 C XIX.

Elephant and wyvern. early 13th century, nature and myth entangles. Royal MS12 C XIX. Source: Wikipedia

The St Werburgh’s elephant is a magnificent, if slightly peculiar creature with delicate hooves, a strangely shaped head, ears that resemble curtains and enormous eyes that give it a rather surprised expression , as though it wonders what on earth it is doing in a medieval abbey.  The answer to that hypothetical question lies in the zoological and mythological company in which the elephant finds itself.  The monks clearly had a good eye for the unusual, as a quick inspection of the misericords will demonstrate.  The carver may have seen a picture of an elephant in a bestiary, a book of real and mythical animals that could be used as a source material for subjects like these.  It is probable that there was no clear dividing line between the imaginary creatures like wyverns, unicorns and dragons, and the more exotic animals that only a handful of people in the west had seen, like our elephant.  There’s an excellent description from a bestiary manuscript Brit. Lib. Harley MS. 3244, fol.39), a short excerpt from which is as follows:

British Library Harley MS 2344, fol.39. Source: Picryl

British Library Harley MS 2344, fol.39. Source: Picryl

They travel  in herds, fear the mouse . . . they are pregnant for two years, neither do they reproduce more than once nor have several offspring but only one.  They live, however, three hundred years.  Moreover, if they want to produce young they go to the eat, near Paradise, and a tree there that is called the mandrake, and the elephant goes there with his wife, who first takes from the tree and gives some to her husband.  And when he eats she seduces him and at once she conceives . . . Now the elephant is terrifying to bulls, yet it fears the mouse.  This is its nature, that  if it should fall, it cannot rise.  Moreover, it falls when it leans against a tree in order to sleep, for it has no knee joints.

Carrying a howdah on its back, the Cathedral elephant is a great favourite with visitors.

In 1898 the Barnum and Bailey Circus organized a vast parade through the town, and this too featured elephants, as well as other circus animals and performers. Chester was one of the stops for the Circus’s European tour of 1898-1902.  These are the “herd elephants” but apparently they were preceded by elephants carrying howdahs.

The 1898 Barnum and Baileys circus parade through the streets of Chester. Source: Chester History Hub at the Grosvenor Museum, via a post on their X.com account

Just outside the cathedral and opposite the Visitor Centre is Janya, a small bronze elephant, just the right size for engaging eye-to-eye with a child or being patted by the many adults who do so.  Northgate is a particularly eclectic part of the city, both in terms of its architecture and its various retail and leisure offerings.  The original market square in front of the cathedral was home to the medieval market and the once housed the lovely 18th century Exchange building, which burned down in 1862.  The addition of Janya to the edge of this space gave it a welcome lift, particularly as she was designed to be stroked and enjoyed (but not climbed).  The plaque set into the pavement in front of the elephant explains that Janya means “life” in Hindi, and that “it symbolises the Zoo’s global role in wildlife conservation.”   She was made in 2010 by Annette Yarrow, a gift from Chester Zoo to the city to celebrate the the “strong friendship between the Zoo and the city.”   A reference is made to the Cathedral elephant, both in the text and in the small arrow pointing in the direction of the cathedral’s visitor entrance, implying an affinity between the zoo and the city’s older heritage.  By showing a year-old elephant, it references the several success stories for the Zoo’s elephant conservation programme, described on the Chester Zoo website as follows:

Pioneering new practices to further improve the welfare for elephants in zoos, sanctuaries and in the wild. This includes becoming the first UK zoo to have a multi-generational family herd, successfully utilising protective contact between elephants and keepers, and spearheading vital new research on behalf of the global conservation community to find a viable vaccine for a deadly virus that affects elephants in zoos and the wild, known as EEHV.

It’s a neat way of linking the city with the zoo, reminding visitors and residents alike that the zoo is not merely a tourist attraction but a centre of conservation excellence and a terrific local resource.

The Chester Zoo’s first two elephants arrived in 1941.  Chester Zoo was established in 1931 when George Mottershead bought the house (Grade 2 listed and sympathetically converted to a pub in 2018) and seven acres of land.  His aim was to build the first zoo without bars. According to the Chester Zoo website, it was a family run-enterprise, and very slow to take off, but eventually became a Chester fixture and great tourist attraction.  In 1934 it became a charity, shifting its emphasis from the display of animals to wildlife conservation.

Molly and Manniken with handler Khanadas. Source:  Chester Zoo

Molly and Manniken with handler Khanadas. Although this page has now been taken off the Chester Zoo website, or moved to somewhere where I cannot find it, the original source of this photograph was Chester Zoo

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Elephant keeper Les Hill, September, 1977

Charming photograph of Elephant Keeper Les Hill, September, 1977. Source: Absolut Elephant database

The elephants were Manniken and Molly.  They were given a home when their owner, the proprietor of Doorley’s Tropical Revue, a travelling menagerie, was called up by the RAF for the war.  Without anyone to care for them, their situation looked dire as without anyone to take them they would have had to be put down.   The story came to the attention of zoo owner George Mottershead, and the pair arrived on 28 August 1941 with their young handler Khanadas, who had cared for them and remained with them at Chester Zoo.  Very sadly, although they settled in well, Manniken suddenly died in November of the same year, but Molly lived on until 1955, a zoo favourite, providing rides for children. After the war, a new elephant house was built, made entirely of recycled materials from the surrounding area, including anti-tank blocks, pill-boxes and concrete slabs.  A children’s radio presenter came along to open the new house, riding in on Molly, attracting 4000 visitors.

Chester Zoo elephants

Chester Zoo elephants

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Fluffy toys (and elephants) in the Chester Zoo Shop in Northgate market

Fluffy toys (including elephants) in the Chester Zoo Shop in Northgate market

Much to my amusement, having just taken photographs of Janya before heading into the market to buy some seafood, I found myself looking at a shelf of fluffy little grey elephants.  Chester Zoo has  a shop in the new market.

If you have ever wondered when the first elephant arrived in Britain, there’s a nice piece by David Meadows on the Rogue Classicism blog about the purported first elephant to arrive in England, with Claudius in AD43: “First Elephant in Britain?”

Finally, there is a splendid set of collectible elephant toys shown on the Planet Diecast site.

Chester Zoo, 18th March 2025

Chester Zoo, 18th March 2025

 

Sources:

Barber, Richard. 1992. Bestiary. MS Bodley 64. The Boydell Press

Baxter, Ron. 1998. Bestiaries and their Users in the Middle Ages. Sutton Publishing
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/340870845_Bestiaries_and_their_Users_in_the_Middle_Ages_Sutton_Publishing_1998_ISBN_0_7509_1853_5

Beal, Timothy K. 2002. Religion and Monsters. Routledge

Burne, R.V.H. 1962. The Monks of Chester. The History of St Werburgh’s Abbey. SPCK

Druce, George C. 1919. The Elephant in Medieval Legend and Art. Journal of the Royal Archaeological Institute, Vol. 76
https://bestiary.ca/etexts/druce-elephant-in-medieval-legend-and-art.pdf

Morrison, Elizabeth (ed). 2019. Book of Beasts. The Bestiary in the Medieval World.  The J. Paul Getty Museum.

———

Absolut Elephant database
Chester Zoo
https://www.elephant.se/location2.php?location_id=42

Atlas Obscura
Why Did Medieval Artists Give Elephants Trunks That Look Like Trumpets?
Maybe not just because they didn’t know what elephants looked like. By Sarah Laskow February 10, 2017
https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/medieval-art-elephants 

Bodleian Library
MS Bodley 964 (Bestiary)
https://digital.bodleian.ox.ac.uk/objects/e6ad6426-6ff5-4c33-a078-ca518b36ca49/

Chester Zoo
https://www.chesterzoo.org/

medievalists.net
Matthew Paris and Henry III’s elephant. By Richard Cassidy and Michael Clasby
www.medievalists.net/2013/09/matthew-paris-and-henry-iiis-elephant/

 

Brunel’s magnificent “Great Eastern” arriving this day in New York from Liverpool in 1860: The Illustrated London News

On 17th June 1860 the fabulous S.S Great Eastern left Liverpool and set sail on her maiden voyage for New York. She arrived there this day, 28th June. Her designer and architect was Isambard Kingdom Brunel whose pet name for the ship during construction was “Great Babe.”

There is a nice nod to Great Eastern on the Chester City Walls, where the length of the ship (692ft) was carved quite deeply into one of the coping stones at Kaleyard, near the pigeon coop, preceded by an engraved anchor.  It is also the measurement between that point and the King Charles Tower, also known as the Phoenix Tower.   You can see a photograph of it at the end of this post.

I have written previously about the Great Eastern and her relationship with the Mersey, and above is a splendid engraving from the 21st July 1860 Supplement of the Illustrated London News showing her June arrival in New York.

Great Eastern shortly before launch 1858

Great Eastern shortly before launch in 1858 by Robert Howlett. Source: Wikimedia

With a capacity for 4000 passengers, she left Liverpool on her maiden voyage with only 35 passengers and 8 company overseers, both of which were far exceeded by a crew of 418.  She was equipped to run under sail or steam, via paddles or propeller, had four decks, and could carry 15,000 tons of coal.  Sadly she was never given the opportunity to meet the long-distance goals of India, China and Australia intended for her by Brunel and her builders and investors and was never competitive on the busy cross-Atlantic passenger service to which she was initially confined.

The fortunes of  Brunel’s astonishing S.S. Great Eastern swung between greatness and near-disaster like an enormous, record-breaking pendulum.  She was all too often something of a gigantic white elephant, but she became an invaluable resource for laying cables across the Atlantic, and was always a great public attraction.

Great Eastern at Hearts Content Cable Station

Painting by Charles James Lewis of the Atlantic Telegraph Expedition landing of the cable in Hearts Content Cable Station in Newfoundland, Canada, on July 27 1866, which he witnessed. Source: PK Porthcurno

After a traumatic roller-coaster of a career, the enormous ship was sold to be broken up in 1889, the work to take place on the Mersey.

Great Eastern, beached in advance of being broken up on the Mersey in late 1888, Wirral side.  Source: Liverpool Echo

Throughout her history, Great Eastern was the subject of curiosity and fascination, and people lined up to buy souvenir pieces of the ship before the breaking work began on 1st January 1889.  The photograph above shows her beached on the Mersey, ready to be broken up, and she continued to challenge even after the breaking work began.  Not only was it a very sad episode for posterity but also, as it turned out, for the ship breaker.  The company directors had estimated that it would take 200 men to break up the ship in a year, but she was so well built that it took nearly two years, requiring the costs of ongoing labour and additional machinery, including much more substantial wrecking balls, to finish the job.  Substantial profits had been anticipated from her scrap value, but she was broken up at a considerable loss.  Brunel had built her to last.

One of Robert Howlett’s famous photographs of Brunel with Great Eastern in 1857 prior to launch. Source: Wikimedia

Brunel had died in 1859 whilst the ship was still undergoing sea trials and had suffered an engineering accident during which five stokers died, and although the consensus is that the emotional stress of the ship’s construction and the difficulties of her launch undoubtedly contributed to his death, he was already suffering from a debilitating kidney disease.

It is perhaps thankful that he did not live to witness this drawn-out demise of his grandly imagined, fabulously realized and much-loved “Great Babe.”

Great Eastern was such a colossal, record-breaking chunk of maritime, industrial and national heritage that I find it more than slightly difficult to forgive the universe for allowing her to be broken up.

Infographic of Great Eastern

Infographic comparing ship sizes, in chronological order from left to right. Click to expand. Source: JF Ptak Science Books.

 

The length of Great Eastern carved into the City walls in the 19th century. Source: Geograph. By John Turner, CC BY-SA 2.0

The watercolour of Great Eastern, shows her beached on the Wirral side of the Mersey for repairs, although the painting is very sadly not on display.  It was painted three years after the illustration at the top of the post, in 1863, by  William Gawin Herdman (1805-1882).

 

Great Eastern watercolour showing the ship on the gridiron for repairs just off the Wirral on the Mersey in 1863. By W.G. Herdman (in the collection of the Williamson Art Gallery, not currently on display). Source: Williamson Art Gallery Collection at Birkenhead.

The Riverside Museum, the development of hospitals in Chester and the professionalization of nursing

Introduction

After writing a 4-part series on the 1829 Cheshire Lunatic Asylum (its original 19th century name), which introduced me for the first time to medical history, I became interested in how hospitals other than mental institutions developed in the United Kingdom.  This post, offering a brief snapshot of how nursing staff built a sense of professional identity from the 19th century onwards, with particular reference to Chester, followed a visit to the Riverside Museum in Chester with its collection of nursing objects, including a cabinet full of hospital badges.

A brief background to hospital care in Chester

Eye Doctor Stamp from Wroxeter. SHYMS A/2008/00133

Eye Doctor Stamp from Wroxeter, now in the the Shrewsbury Museum and Art Gallery. SHYMS A/2008/00133

Medicine in one form or another has always been present. Doctors were in England in the Roman period.  A nice example of a Roman emblem of medical authority is an eye doctor’s stamp from the Roman town of Wroxeter near Shrewsbury, now in Shrewsbury Museum and Art Gallery.  Roman doctors and surgeons often treated their patients in the public baths, which were major community gathering places and health facilities but most legionary fortresses would also be equipped with a valetudinarium, a place for those needing help with valetudo (health), an early predecessor of the hospital.  In a British legionary fortress this building was usually located opposite the city baths for convenience, but although the Chester (Deva) city baths are known to have been located on the east side of Bridge Street, sadly the valetudinarium has not been definitively located.  Tim Strickland suggested, albeit tentatively, that it might be the building found in the 1982 excavations to the east of the barracks, on the west side of Northgate Street, a little way north of today’s Town Hall.  This is given support by some fascinating evidence for the presence of medical expertise in that area in the form of two altars dedicated by doctors to suitable deities.  Documented as RIB 461 and RIB 3151 they were both inscribed in Greek, implying that the doctors were themselves Greek, and were found on the west side of Northgate Street. Both are now in the Grosvenor Museum, Chester.  David Mason offers the alternative suggestion that the traces of primary timber buildings opposite the baths could feasibly be the  valetudinarium, but the remains were too meagre for any function to be determined.

Tim Strickland's reconstruction of the Princess Street Excavations, showing the possible hospital building in the background

Tim Strickland’s reconstruction of the Princess Street Excavations, showing the possible hospital building in the background. Source: Strickland 1982

In the later medieval period, badges and medals were adopted in secular, military and ecclesiastical contexts to identify status, beliefs and achievements.  Pilgrims to the St Werburgh shrine, in St Werburgh’s Benedictine Abbey, what is now Chester Cathedral, purchased pilgrim badges not only as souvenirs of their journey, but to identify themselves as actively committed to acts of Christian faith,or in gratitude for prayers being answered.  Pilgrimages could be undertaken for a variety of reasons, but a major draw was the possibility of a saint interceding in response to prayers for curing illness or disability.  Accumulated badges were attached to clothing and bags.  These were of course emblems purchased by the pilgrim.  They were not awarded by others to pilgrims in recognition of their devotion, but they communicated a powerful sense of affiliation and achievement.

St Werburgh’s Abbey pilgrim badge. British Museum 1836,0610.73

Chester’s very first infirmary was probably that of the medieval St Werburgh’s Benedictine Abbey, founded in 1092.  As with most abbey complexes, the infirmary was a separate building that provided elderly and infirm monks with a more relaxed regime and better food than enjoyed by the rest of the monastic community, but was not necessarily concerned with the most of the market town’s community beyond the monastic walls.  The location of the infirmary, which was usually a separate building and often set as one side of a second cloister (square of monastic buildings) is not known, although Alan Thacker suggests it might have been to the east of the surviving cloister.

By contrast, the 12th century St Giles leper colony was dedicated to the care of anyone with the terrible Hansen’s Disease, better known as leprosy, caused by the bacteria Mycobacterium leprae.  Like most leper colonies, it was outside the town, located about a mile away from Chester in Boughton.  As was traditional with leper hospitals, it was located at a fork in the road, an optimal location for lepers to beg for alms heading into and out of Chester via the Eastgate.  It later became more of an almshouse, until it was knocked down at the start of the Civil War in 1643.  The remains of the hospital’s cemetery is still visible as a patch of raised grass just beyond the fork where Tarvin Road and Christleton Road split.

Artist’s impression of Birkenhead Priory as it may have looked in the 14th century by E.W. Cox c.1896.

Just outside the city walls, the charitable St John The Baptist Infirmary (known locally as Little St John’s to distinguish it from the Church of St John the Baptist) was established in around 1190 to take care of the elderly and infirm within the town, specializing in the care of the impoverished.  Like most hospitals it was equipped with a church and a cemetery.  Thirteen beds were reserved for the city’s impoverished, but could take in other patients when capacity permitted.  There were always problems with the financial management of the hospital, which R. Stewart-Brown puts down to the policy of renting out the hospital’s properties in return for fixed sums, which could not be adjusted when costs rose.  Matters reached a head in February 1315-15 when a public inquiry was held and it was decided to give responsibility to Birkenhead Priory, but this was apparently fairly short-lived.  The hospital was demolished in 1644.

In 1510  a charitable bequest from former sheriff Roger Smith founded six almshouses in Commonhall Street, Smith’s former house, together with a chapel. Suffering financial difficulties, it was converted into the Fraternity and Hospital of St Ursula the Virgin.  Although it was dissolved in the mid 1500s the almshouse buildings survived until 1871.

1761 Building Royal Infirmary

1761 Building Royal Infirmary

The Chester Infirmary opened in the mid-1700s after a bequest was left to found a county infirmary specifically to build a hospital for those unable to afford medical care.  After an initial period at the Blue Coat School at Northgate, a site was purchased on City Walls Road, and the building was designed by William Yoxall, with its own chapel on the first floor.

Dr John Haygarth

Dr John Haygarth. Source: Wikipedia

In 1766 Dr John Haygarth accepted a position at the Infirmary as a physician, working there until he retired in 1796.  His investigative work lead him to become particularly interested in the spread of infections diseases in the poorer parts of the city, establishing a Smallpox Society in 1778.  He promoted the control of disease in the community by establishing routines of cleanliness, ventilation and inoculation.  The creation of isolation wards in 1783, in response mainly to typhus outbreaks, was an innovation at the Infirmary that was soon adopted by other hospitals.  Over the coming years many changes were made to the Infirmary.  The Chester Infirmary represented a considerable advance on medieval standards of care, both benefitting from and contributing to medical research and the understanding of infectious diseases.

Frances Maria Wilbraham

Frances Maria Wilbraham. Source: Wikipedia

At the Chester Infirmary, the sisters Frances and Emily Wilbraham and their friend and colleague Emily Ayckbowm demonstrated how women in the late 1800s might be highly active not merely in the care of patients, but in the management of hospitals and the handling of epidemics, building on the work of Florence Nightingale. Colonel Richard Wilbraham, brother of the sisters, had served in Crimea and was a friend of Nightingale’s.

The three major outbreaks of cholera in 1832, 1849 and 1865 stretched the hospital’s resources to the limit and they refused to take cholera patients, requiring isolation hospitals to be set up on vacant land, which were taken down once the worst was over.  This was a period when Chester still lacked piped water and insanitary conditions, although being tackled by the authorities, were very common.  At the onset of the 1865-66 outbreak of cholera, Frances was instrumental in setting up an isolation hospital in a semi-derelict farm building where the Grosvenor Park is now located, helping to, prepare it for patients, nursing the patients when they arrived, and managing workhouse inmates who were assigned to the infirmary.  Frances published a book about her experiences in 1877, “Streets and Lanes of a City,” under the pen-name Amy Dutton. The windows in the chapel built on the first floor of the Royal Infirmary were installed in memory of the Frances and Emily.

Infirmary Chapel Windows. Source: First floor display in the Wheeler Building, University of Chester

Infirmary Chapel Windows. Source: Photograph of first floor landing poster display in the Wheeler Building, University of Chester

The building was expanded and modernized and in 1914 a major refurbishment was accompanied by a new wing with with six additional wards.  After being opened by King George V and Queen Mary, it was renamed the Chester Royal Infirmary.  In 1948 the hospital was absorbed into the National Health Service.  In 1994 it eventually closed, its functions having been taken over by what is now the mammoth Countess of Chester Hospital.  The original 1761 building was Grade 2 listed in 1972, and in 1998 was converted for residential use, but the rest was demolished.  The building still stands and appears to be in very good condition.

The 1829 Building, built as Cheshire’s first lunatic asylum and now part of the Countess of Chester Hospital

The Countess of Chester Hospital was, until 1968, a mental health hospital.  It had been established as the county lunatic asylum in 1829, a progressive institution which, particularly under Thomas Nadauld Brushfield, attempted not merely to confine patients but to understand and treat mental illness.  I have written a considerable amount about the lunatic asylum in the 19th century on this blog here.  In 1968 it became a general hospital and in 1977 began to expand to become the central general hospital for the region.

The Haygarth Medal

The Haygarth Medal, , Chester Infirmary. Source: Peter’s Nursing Collectibles (with permission)

The relationship between hospital, lunatic asylum and workhouse (most of which had their own medical wings for inmates) was complicated, but there was increasing recognition that medicine and patient care needed to be both professionalized and standardized.  This is first visible in the increasing care invested in new hospital buildings. The architecture of both the Infirmary of 1761 and the Cheshire Lunatic Asylum of 1829 demonstrate the civic pride that lay behind these institutions.  The buildings were not merely functional-looking cornflake-box buildings, but imaginative statements of philanthropic commitment, self-confidence and investment in society, as well as representing more than a little self-congratulation.  Not all of the nation’s medical institutions were able to put well-meant ideals into practice, but on the whole the Chester medical establishments seem to have had the best of intentions and to have attracted good professional people to head up their medical enterprises.

In the late 19th century the Chester Infirmary began to award a silver medal each year to the best nurse at the Infirmary, recognizing that rewarding high standards was an important part of encouraging improvements in the profession as a whole.  In honour of its pioneering physician Dr John Haygarth, it was named the Haygarth Medal, at left.  The tradition of awarding badges and medals had a long pedigree in the military and the use of the same idea to recognize achievements and promotions was one of the most important tools used to demonstrate the professionalization of nursing.
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The professionalization of nursing and associated symbols of achievement

Original letter written by Florence Nightingale at Baklava to a soldier's family, preserved at the Riverside Museum, Chester

Original letter written by Florence Nightingale at Baklava to a soldier’s family, preserved at the Riverside Museum, Chester

The best know of the pioneering nurses is Florence Nightingale (1820-1910).  She had introduced many important new initiatives, such as providing fresh air, clean conditions, warmth, quiet and a good diet.  She recognized that nursing was regarded as little more than domestic service that attracted those without either skills or education, many of whom were very unsuitable.  On her return to England, after the war ended in 1856, Nightingale established a school for nurses, funded with public contributions.  It opened in 1860, provided year-long training, and was highly selective about the intake of trainees.  Interestingly, Nightingale was not in favour of establishing national uniformity in the professional standardization of nursing.  Instead, she believed that a letter of recommendation from her training school was sufficient recommendation.

Badge of the National Union of Trained Nurses. Source: Peter’s Nursing Collectibles

It was another professional nurse, Ethel Gordon Fenwick (1857-1947), a matron of St Bartholomew’s hospital in London, who became one of the principal activists for the standardization of professional training and the introduction of qualifications.  Because nursing was the almost exclusive activity of women, the work to professionalize nursing was most often undertaken by female activists in an era long before women had won the right to vote for the first time in 1918. Ethel Gordon Fenwick campaigned for the registration of nurses as a way of establishing universally accepted standards in nursing associated with acknowledged skills and integrity.  In 1887 she established the British Nurses Association to campaign for registration, and issued both certificates and badges to nurses who were deemed to have met the Association’s high standards. This was eventually followed in c.1910 by the National Union of Trained Nurses, which again issued certificates and badges.  Its badge, in the shape of a star, had the legend , with the legend translated as “per ardua ad astra,” a Latin phrase meaning “through adversity to the stars.”

College of Nursing Badge. Source: Peter's Nursing Collectibles

College of Nursing Badge. Source: Peter’s Nursing Collectibles

Although a pioneer in her own right, Ethel Gordon Fenwick was not alone, and other institutional bodies were set up to push forward registration and standards, often in competition with one another.  These different bodies were eventually superseded in 1919 when the Nurses Registration Act was passed and the College of Nursing was established, and the registration of nurses began on 30th September 1921, entitling nurses to refer to themselves as State Registered Nurses (SRNs).  Ethel Gordon Fenwick signed the register in that year, becoming the first SRN. This new institution continued the tradition of issuing a badge, which had the initials CN surrounded by the motto “The College of Nursing founded MCMXVI,” accompanied by the emblematic flora of the four nations.  It was updated a number of times, notably in 1946 when it was provided with the motto Tradimus Lampada, “We pass on the torch,” a reference to Florence Nightingale and her pioneering work to establish standards in patient care.

Nurses’ badges, which began to be awarded after the middle of the 19th century displayed affiliation to a value system, an ideology, a profession and an institution, whilst at the same time providing a sense of personal achievement and pride.  They were also, much like military and ecclesiastical training awards, part of the process of ensuring that nurses adopted not only practical methodologies and procedures, but also particular patterns of behaviour and responsibilities.  The messages incorporated into these badges were not only recognized by other health professionals but also provided reassurance to patients and their families. For women, always the minority in professional life up until the mid 20th century, it was an important indication of their increasingly important roles and skills in a medical environment.

Nurse's uniform on display at the Riverside Museum, Chester

Nurse’s uniform on display at the Riverside Museum, Chester

Although by the later 19th century badges of honour and office were already popular, they  acquired a new momentum as different segments of society began to recognize the importance of conforming to agreed professional standards at work.  Nurses’ uniforms and badges were developed side by side with growing professional standards and the recognition that nurses, delivering hands-on care, required training, examination, and qualifications to ensure that the ever changing medical advances were incorporated into the daily routines of the hospital wards.  The development of recognized formal standards and the uniforms and badges that indicated them, gave nursing a new sense of its own professional integrity, and value to society.  Nursing badges were adopted by both the state, to recognize national awards, and by individual hospitals to recognize the achievements of their own nurses who had been trained according to that establishment’s own standards and specializations.  This introduced some competition between hospitals, as some establishments became more prestigious than others, and issuing badges was a way of attracting nurses who wished to share in that prestige.

Chester Royal Infirmary Training School. Source: Peter's Nursing Collectibles

Chester Royal Infirmary Training School, combining the Maltese Cross with the wheat sheaf of Chester. Source: Peter’s Nursing Collectibles

State badges were eventually standardized.  In 1919 the Nurses Registration Act introduced a single badge for all nurses who qualified, and continued to be a valuable part of a nurse’s uniform for over 70 years.  Individual hospital badges continued to be far more eclectic and there are hundreds of styles and shapes of individual hospital badges.  There was often a “pinning of the badge” ceremony to mark the transition of a nurse when she had finished her training or passed certain examinations, associating the badge with a sense of ceremony and occasion.

Themes represented on British badges were very varied.  Some early examples were based on the Maltese Cross emblem of the Knights of St John.  Others had Christian imagery to reflect the nurture, care and charitable character of nursing.  Some had heraldic themes.  Lamps, referencing Florence Nightingale, were popular.  The Rod of Aesculapius is a recurring emblem.

My mother's Oxford Eye Hospital badge

My mother’s Oxford Eye Hospital badge, in the shape of an eye with the emblem in the eye’s pupil, together with her fob watch

Specialist institutions might have imagery showing the nature of the specialization; images of mother-and-child were popular with midwifery, for example.   Some simply displayed initials of the institution.  Many included a motto around the edge or on the cross-bar.  My mother became an ophthalmic nurse at the Oxford Eye Hospital after leaving school, and I still have her nurse’s badge, shown here, in the shape of a human eye with the image of a lamp symbolizing Florence Nightingale at its centre, in the pupil of the eye. The motto that sits along the base of the badge reads “To give light to them that sit in darkness.”

Chester District School of Nursing. Source: Peter's Nursing Collectibles

Chester District School of Nursing. Source: Peter’s Nursing Collectibles

In Chester hospitals, the wheat sheaves first associated with the 5th Earl of Chester from the 12th century were popular, such as that from the Chester School of District Nursing shown left and the Chester Royal Infirmary Training School above.  

In the 20th century the principal manufacturer of nurses’ badges was Thomas Fattorini, in Birmingham.  It is estimated that around 400 different UK nurses badge designs were produced in the 1970s and 80s alone.  State badges ceased to be issued in 1983 when statutory bodies were reorganized under a central council. The tradition of issuing hospital badges also began to go into decline when the shift was made from hospital-based training to nursing colleges. Nurses’ badges are now, however, very popular with collectors so although they are now more matters of heritage than ongoing relevance, their survival seems secure.
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The reverse side of a Fattorini Badge from Oxford Eye Hospital

The reverse side of a Thomas Fattorini Badge made for Oxford Eye Hospital

 

School of Nursing and Midwifery, Chester. Source: Peter's Nursing Collectibles.

School of Nursing and Midwifery, Chester. Source: Peter’s Nursing Collectibles.

In conclusion, the professionalization of nursing and the recognition of nurses’ achievements was aided by the deployment of uniforms and badges that indicated the role of the women who wore them, and later men too.  These uniforms and badges reflected social reform in which the growing recognition of the role of women outside the home and beyond the menial were increasingly recognized. The badges visibly demonstrated qualifications and abilities to their patients, their colleagues, their managing institutions and to society as a whole, creating a framework of recognition and respect.  Perhaps just as importantly it provided the nurses who earned them with a sense of status and self-worth.  The badge was not something that a nurse simply wore, but an emblem of honour and achievement indicating a personal commitment and attitude to a vocation involving both practical and book learning in which she not merely participated but in which she had been tested and at which she had excelled.

Photograph of the Chester Royal Infirmary in 1968, together with The Nursing Mirror Pocket Encyclopaedia and Diary. Riverside Museum, Chester.

Photograph of the Chester Royal Infirmary in 1968, together with The Nursing Mirror Pocket Encyclopaedia and Diary. Riverside Museum, Chester.

I have referred to nurses throughout this short piece as female, as most nursers were, for most of nursing history.  In mental health institutions male attendants were an absolute necessity for their physical strength rather than their medical skills, working alongside female nurses, but from the mid-19th century, and particularly during the two World Wars, men were serving as medics in first aid and nursing capacities in the military, as part of the Royal Army Medical Corps (RAMC), often at the front lines.  Legal recognition for male nurses in Britain occurred in 1919 with the introduction of the Nurse Registration Act; the first male State Registered Nurses (SRNs) were registered in 1922.  The first male SRN was George Dunn of Liverpool who had trained in the RAMC.

The Riverside Museum

Nurses' badges at the Riverside Museum, Wheeler Building, Chester

Nurses’ badges at the Riverside Museum, Wheeler Building, Chester

The Riverside Museum in Chester contains a rich assortment of items that relate to medicine, nursing, midwifery and related health services. In one display cabinet there are numerous nursing badges. They all come from Chester, the Wirral and elsewhere in the region, and they are all different shapes, sizes and colours with different motifs.  Based on the model of military uniforms and medals, the nurses’ uniforms and state-awarded badges were intended to identify nurses as fully trained and qualified health professionals.  Other badges additionally identified specific hospitals and specializations.  The emblems, badges and uniforms formed a symbolic representation of skill, status and role within the healthcare community.

Riverside Museum

What is clear from the Riverside Museum is that as well as badges and uniforms, nurses had a plethora of written material to support them – pamphlets, handbooks, mini encyclopaedias and, later, textbooks.  As well as used as training materials, they continued to be valuable for reference on the job, and new volumes helped to keep nurses up to date with the latest techniques and practices.  These demonstrate not merely the standard that the nurses reached, but also the commitment to ongoing improvement.

If you have not heard of the Riverside Museum, it is probably because of its opening times.  The museum is run by volunteers and its opening times are confined to once a month during term time, and on certain days during the Chester Heritage Festival and the Festival of Ideas.  You can find their opening times for 2026 here.

School of Nursing and Midwifery. University College Chester.

School of Nursing and Midwifery. University College Chester. Source: Peter’s Nursing Collectibles.

Do note that the opening times usually coincide with a free lecture series organized by the Faculty of Health, Medicine and Society Historical Society, also listed on the link above.  These lectures are excellent, and it is well worth planning to combine a visit to the museum with attendance of a lecture.  The Museum also accepts group bookings for six or more people by arrangement.  The museum is located in the Wheeler Building, which was the former County Hall, the Cheshire County Council headquarters building. It sits on the northern bank of the Dee between the 14th century Old Chester Bridge and the 1832 Grosvenor bridge, overlooking the river. A map is available at the bottom of the Wheeler Building’s web page here.

Many and sincere thanks are owed to Peter Maleczek for giving me permission to use the images from his website Peter’s Nursing Collectables at https://petersnursingcollectables.com/home.php  and his Flickr page at https://www.flickr.com/search/?user_id=36611823%40N07&sort=date-taken-desc&view_all=1&text=chester

 

Chester Royal Infirmary, both engraved to Nurse M. Dallimore.  Source: Peter's Nursing Collectibles

Chester Royal Infirmary prize medals, both engraved to Nurse M. Dallimore in 1940.  Source: Peter’s Nursing Collectibles

Sources:

Books and Papers

Barrow, J.S., J.D. Herson, A.H. Lawes, P.J. Riden, M.V. J. Seaborne 2005.  Local government and public services: Medical services.  In A.T. Thacker and C.P. Lewis (eds.) A History of the County of Chester: Volume 5 Part 2, the City of Chester: Culture, Buildings, Institutions. British History Online
https://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/ches/vol5/pt2/pp49-58 

Bates, Christian 2010. Looking closely: Material and visual approaches to the nurse’s uniform.  Nursing History Review vol.18, p.167-88
https://www.proquest.com/docview/207237406?sourcetype=Scholarly%20Journals

Callander-Green, Stephen 2001.  Nurses’ Badges: Archaic Symbols or Icons of Nursing? International History of Nursing Journal, vol.6, iss.2, p.71
https://www.proquest.com/docview/218742979?pq-origsite=gscholar&fromopenview=true&sourcetype=Scholarly%20Journals

Carrington, P. 1994.  Chester. Batsford / English Heritage

Catanzaro, Ana Maria 2002. Beyond the Misapprehension of Nursing Rituals.  Nursing Forum, vol.37, No.2, April-June 2002, p.17-27
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1744-6198.2002.tb01194.x

Edelweiss, James 1992, 2009. Collecting Nursing History 6. Pictorial History –  Collecting Nursing Badges. School of Nursing.
https://www.schoolsofnursing.co.uk/Articles/EdelweisJBA1.htm

Laughton, Jane 2008. Life in a Late Medieval City. Chester 1275-1520. Windgather Press

Mason, David 2001, 2007 (2nd edition). Roman Chester. City of the Eagles. Tempus

Richardson, Harriet (ed.) 1998. English Hospitals 1660-1948. Royal Commission on the Historical Monuments of England

Risse, Guenter B. 1999. Chapter 1. Collective Care of Soldiers and Slaves: Roman Valetudinaria. In (ed.) Guenter B. Risse. Mending Bodies, Saving Souls: A History of Hospitals. Oxford University Press
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/273441350_Collective_Care_of_Soldiers_and_Slaves_Roman_Valetudinaria

Strickland, Tim 1982.  Chester. Current Archaeology 84, vol. 8, no.1, October 1982, p.6-12

Thacker, Alan 1995.  The reuse of the monastic buildings at Chester, 1540-1640. Transactions of the Historic Society of Lancashire and Cheshire, vol. 145 (1995), p.21-43.
https://hslc.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/145-3-Thacker.pdf

Wildman, Stuart 2020.  Nursing history: the first male nurses: Who were the first male nurses? Royal College of Nursing Magazine, April 29th 2020
https://www.rcn.org.uk/magazines/History/2020/Nursing-History-Now-first-men-nurses-on-register

Wildman, Stuart 2023. What’s On a Badge? Using material culture to illustrate the professionalism of nursing. Bulletin of the UKAHN, vol.11 (1)
https://bulletin.ukahn.org/whats-on-a-badge-using-material-culture-to-illustrate-the-professionalization-of-nursing/

Websites

Based in Churton
The Cheshire Lunatic Asylum 1854-1870 – Part 2.1
https://wp.me/pcZwQK-6oU
The Cheshire Lunatic Asylum 1854-1870 – Part 2.2
https://wp.me/pcZwQK-7ts

Roman Inscriptions in Britain
RIB 461 and RIB 3151
https://romaninscriptionsofbritain.org/inscriptions/3151

School of Nursing
Sue Sullivan. Collecting Nursing History – Nursing Badge Design.
http://www.schoolsofnursing.co.uk/Articles/Badgedesignx.htm

 

The Nursing Mirror Pocket Encylopaedia and Diary

Pages from the Nursing Mirror Pocket Encyclopaedia and Diary. Riverside Museum, Chester

Hillforts and amazing views – and why is there an Egyptian temple on the top of Moel Famau?

The Jubilee Tower

The Jubilee Tower

It was something of a surprise when I walked up to the top of Moel Famau during the week and found myself face to face with a building that was clearly based on an ancient Egyptian temple, the Grade II listed Jubilee Tower.  People talk about the views, the hillforts, the heather, the bilberries and the bird life, but no-one had mentioned that there was a rather unexpected slice of Egyptomania on the peak.  One would certainly, thankfully, not be permitted to build on a national beauty spot these days, but I suppose that it could be a lot worse, like the hideous, overpriced café on Snowdon.  The Jubilee Tower is not elegant, it is not authentic, and it is anything but pretty, but it did make me smile, and other walkers were clearly enjoying it too.  Heritage comes in various forms, some of them most unexpected.  The Egyptian Revival produced some splendid buildings and monuments, and although this one is not amongst the most accomplished, its location singles it out as a fairly remarkable example, a genuine curiosity.

 

Map of Moel Famau footpaths

Map of Moel Famau footpaths, as well as the locations of Moel y Gaer and Foel Fenlli hillforts. Source: Nearly Uphill

Moel Famau, on the Clwydian Range, is lovely.  It is the highest peak on the Clwydians and a very popular destination for hikers and dog walkers alike.  I don’t really remember my first visit, so it was very much like visiting for the first time.  There are a number of different approaches to the peak. I went along the Bwlch Pen Barras road, a pass through the Clwydian Range where there are two official starting points with car parks.  one of which takes you through the coed (wood), but it was far too gloriously sunny to be under cover, which means that that the best starting point was the large amount of lay-by parking (which I believe is free) or the Bwlch Pen Barras car park (payment required) .  The What3Words address for the Bwlch Pen Barras car park is ///hobble.passwords.device.  You are already very high up at this point, with terrific views over the Vale of Clwyd before you even start, and the footpath that I took (the purple track at far left of the above map) provides superb views over the Vale of Clwyd.

The walk, along a wide, well maintained path, starts very gently and for the first 20 minutes or so is very easy.  It becomes much steeper for a fairly short section leading up to the peak, but people of all levels of fitness seemed to be tackling it, some stopping frequently for a breather.  It’s worth that last push because the 360º views are breathtaking.

 

 

If you climb up the steps to the top of the Egyptian Revival “temple” there are metal plaques explaining the building.  It turns out that what we see today is just the stump of a much more ambitious project, the Jubilee Tower, which included an obelisk.  It was designed by architect Thomas Harrison, and was built to celebrate the Golden Jubilee of George III in 1810, paid for by public subscription, with Flintshire magistrate Lord Kenyon laying the foundation stone in October of that year.  Harrison’s buildings in Chester are far less frivolous, with most of his work in the Neoclassical style, including the Grosvenor Bridge and the Propylaeum (monumental gateway) into Chester Castle and the Neoclassical building that is now owned by the university but was previously occupied by the council as its Shire Hall.  The building materials were taken up by horse and cart. The design of the obelisk was modified during construction, with a shorter and stumpier version being completed in about 1817 after a break in work due to financial difficulties and a dispute between Harrison and the builder. Unfortunately the obelisk soon started to deteriorate, and eventually collapsed in a storm in 1862.  The rest of the structure continued to decay until 1970 when it underwent restoration, and in 2013 it again required significant restoration work.  Here’s the Coflein description of the Jubilee Tower:

The Jubilee Tower in the Edwardian period

The Jubilee Tower in the Edwardian period. Source:  BBC News

The monument now survives as a battered plinth, 12-15m diameter, of roughly coursed rubble stone. Located on a mound which may be artificial. Each face has a central blind doorway of dressed stone, in simple Egyptian style, under a roll-moulded lintel; roughly hewn cornice or hoodmould.  Above these blind openings are broad rectangular panels of dressed freestone with roll-moulded surrounds. The corners of the monument have stone and concrete steps, starting from low square projections, which lead to the centre of the monument. Inside are the circular rubble stone footings of a former higher section of tower, 6m in diameter.  Around the outside of the monument is a renewed retaining wall 0.5-1m high, open at the corners. A plaque reads ‘Cefn Gwlad award 1970’, with Prince of Wales emblems.

The Egyptian Revival followed Napoleon’s invasion of Egypt in 1798.  He took with him over 100 specialists, the “savants,” amongst whom were artists and draughtsmen who recorded the ancient Egyptian temples.

One of the first and very popular books to publish these images was Dominique Vivant-Denon’s “Journeys in Upper and Lower Egypt” published in 1802.  Even before Jean-François Champollion’s translation of hieroglyphs in 1822, and over a century before Howard Carter’s discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamen in 1922, Egypt had wriggled its way firmly into the British imagination.  Even so, I would love to have been at the meeting where plonking a pseudo-Egyptian monument on the top of a remote beauty spot in honour of the king’s jubilee was presented as a such a good idea that people invested in it.

 

Moel y Gaer hillfort is the green beret on top of the pinkish-brown supr

Also on the top of the temple are plaques showing the names of the hills all around, with Cadair Idris and Snowdonia visible as silvery silhouettes through the slight haze, and the Moel Arthur hillfort next along on the Clwydian Range.

Looking northeast towards Prestatyn across Moel Arthur and Penycloddiau hillforts from the top of Jubilee Tower

View from the main path to Moel y Gaer hillfort

If you are a fan of the Iron Age this is a terrific walk.  The path passes Moel y Gaer, which sits on a spur of the hillside, and is a piece of absolute perfection.  It is not on a public footpath, but it is clearly visible from the main route up Moel Famau.  Its banks and ditches form an elegant tiara, and its position overlooking the Vale of Clwyd is superb.  Once you have reached the peak of Moel Famau, the hill housing the Moel Arthur hillfort is clearly visible, with Penycloddiau beyond.  Foel Fenlli is a walk in its own right, but it is an important part of the walk back down from Moel Famau, because its vast banks and ditches are clearly outlined against a bright sky, yelling its late prehistoric credentials, a far more aggressive and prominent statement than Moel y Gaer.

Impressive fortifications of Foel Fenlli

The impressive fortifications of Foel Fenlli, as seen from the Moel y Gaer path

Apart from the acres of dark brown heather and the bright spring green of the valley below, there is not a lot of plant life to see at this time of year, although it is very striking without a floral contribution.  The heather, dark chestnut brown and lifeless at this time of year, has been cut into a peculiar pattern of rectangles to encourage new growth, apparently for the benefit of wildlife.  There is not much in the way of shrubs and the trees in the wood are conifer plantations. There are plenty of birds of prey if you have equipped yourself with binoculars.  I look forward to visiting again when the heather is in flower in late summer, which should be stunning.

It is about a 40 minute walk up, although I forgot to take a note of the times in either direction and have the impression that it took me only about half an hour back down, with extra time added for pausing to enjoy the views and for lazy mellowing and exploring the monument at the top.  I am something of a route-marcher, so that needs to be taken into account.  You can walk on beyond Moel Famau in various directions on public footpaths.  Most obviously the path continues, in a much narrower form, across the Clwydian Range, which looks like an absolutely splendid option.  If you have the energy, you can walk to the village of Bodfari, in another pass through the Clwydian Range, whilst the Offa’s Dyke Trail goes all the way to Prestatyn.  In the opposite direction, you can follow the route over Foel Fenlli all the way to Chirk, skirting the dramatic Eglyseg Mountain and passing Castell Dinas Bran and the Pontcysyllte aqueduct.

It was one of those spring days when everyone looked as though they had been released from a cage, shedding winter like a bad memory.  Super.  To read more about the environment and archaeology of the Clwydian Range and Llantysilio Mountains see the PDF produced by the Heather and Hillforts project. 

 

Aerial view of the Clwydian Range. Coflein image 662395. Source: Coflein

 

Walking the history of Chester’s canals, from the river Dee to Boughton #1 – Short History

This post is divided into two. Part 1 (this part) looks in brief at some of the history of the Chester city canals, mainly to untangle the complicated story of what is happening at the Tower Wharf Basin, where the Chester and Ellesmere Canals came together.  Part 2 is a mainly photographic account of the walk along the canals from the river Dee to the Chester Boughton Hall Cricket Club, just beyond Tarvin Bridge.

The pink arrows are my route from the Little Roodee car park to the start of the canal. The orange arrows are the route taken from the start of the canal at the river Dee to Chester Boughton Hall Cricket Club. Details of the walk are in Part 2.

Cow Lane Bridge 1880s

Cow Lane Bridge in the 1880s. Source: chesterwallsinfo

This post begins with a short description of the history of the Shropshire Union Canal, describes why the intersections just beyond the Northgate staircase lock is so complicated, and goes on to describe the walk.

The Shropshire Union Canal runs today from the Mersey and the Manchester Ship Canal at Ellesmere Port, to Autherley Junction near Wolverhampton on the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal over a distance of 66.5 miles (107km).  Because it runs beyond the city walls, only making its presence felt to tourists where it crosses Northgate and along the base of the city walls, it does not feature on the city’s usual tourist routes.  Unlike Chester’s well known medieval, Georgian and Victorian architectural attractions, the canal is more directly a component part of the city’s industrial past, but is just as essential in the city’s story.

The history of the Shropshire Union Canal

During the 18th century civil engineer James Brindley (1716-1772) was responsible for building over 365 miles of canals.  Brindely realized that any inland waterway network would need to connect to all the great navigable rivers that connected to the sea, including the Thames, the Mersey, the Severn and the Trent, incorporating other important navigable rivers like the the Avon and the Dee.  The network was a sprawling affair, but it revolutionized transport, avoiding roads that would become mired and impassable in winter, as well as unnavigable sections of rivers, and the riverine problems of tides, drought and flood.  Water into and out of the canal system was regulated and therefore predictable, and allowed year-round transport.  The advantages became very clear very quickly, and manufacturing and trading businesses began to locate themselves at critical points on the canal network.  Eagerness to invest in infrastructure resulted in a canal boom in the mid to late 1700s.  Each new section of canal required an Act of Parliament, subject to Royal Assent, and Act after Act was passed as the network expanded.

The Chester Canal. Source: Shearing 1985, p.150

The  execution of the canal project for Chester was deeply flawed.  Jumping on the canal bandwagon, entrepreneurs and investors envisaged a money-making venture that would bring Shropshire and Cheshire into the mainstream trade network with Birmingham, the nation’s canal hub and centre of industry, via a junction at Middlewich with the 1777 Trent and Mersey Canal.  Unfortunately, the builders of the Chester Canal did not have agreements in place to connect their new Chester Canal either to the Trent and Mersey Canal, which denied them permission to build a junction, or with the River Dee Company, which also put barriers in their way leading to several years of negotiation before a satisfactory solution was reached.  The Chester Canal, opening in 1779, was not built to Middlewich, where it had been planned for the Chester to join the Trent and Mersey, and instead stopped at Nantwich, segregated from the rest of the national canal network.  With little traffic carrying low-value cargoes, as well as a packet boat service, the canal was a fairly substantial failure.  In 1787 the Beeston staircase locks collapsed and there were insufficient funds to pay for repairs.  The Chester Canal hovered on the verge of bankruptcy.

The complex arrangement of the Ellesmere Canal

The complex arrangement of the Ellesmere Canal and its branches is shown as thin blue winding lines. The thick blue line from Chester is the Dee. The yellow lines are roads. Click to see a bigger version. Source: Wikipedia

If it had not been for the 1791 Ellesmere Canal project, the Chester Canal would not have managed to limp on much longer.  The proposal for sections of canal to link the Mersey at Netherpool (now Ellesmere Port) to both the river Dee at Chester and the Severn at Shrewsbury was ambitious, but attracted sufficient support for a surveyor to be hired and possible routes to be explored.  The Ellesmere Canal proposal was presented to parliament and received its Royal Assent in April 1793.   Although shortages in funding prevented the realization of the full vision, shown right, Chester was at last brought into the national canal network. Part of this necessitated the addition of a new branch of canal from Chester to Ellesmere Port, which connected with the Chester Canal in what is now the Tower Wharf Basin.  The two companies merged in 1813, becoming the Ellesmere and Chester Canal Companh.  In 1833 the Middlewich branch was added, as the Chester Canal company had originally planned, and was connected to the rest of the network via the Trent and Mersey.

Hunter 1782 map with canal

Hunter 1782 map with the canal before the basins were added for the Wirral Line

These changes required major infrastructure changes in Chester itself that are still clearly visible today.  Starting from the former interface between the river and the canal, just off Sealand Road, the derelict remains of the river-canal lock are clearly visible as industrial archaeology.  The gates have long gone and this section of the lock and the branch that once lead into the Dee Basin, along Tower Road on the map below, on its way to the Dee Branch, is full of aquatic plant life.  As you walk along towards the Dee Branch, rounding the corner and passing under the bridge, you find yourself in the basin complex, the Ellesmere Canal Company’s solution to how best to incorporate the Wirral Line north to Ellesmere Port.  However before the Ellesmere Canal Company was involved, the Chester Canal simply ran straight ahead, running directly along the Dee Basin into a set of five staircase locks before heading east towards Boughton.

Canal and River Trust map of the basin and wharves, showing the complex arrangement of locks and basins required to incorporate the Wirral branch of the canal to Ellesmere Port.

 

Map from the 1858 Roberts Chester Guide

Map from the 1858 Roberts Chester Guide, showing the big Dee Basin at the far end where locks connected it to the Dee. Click image to enlarge

The set of basins and wharves that became necessary when the Chester Canal was incorporated into the Ellesmere Canal Company’s plans capture the fascinating history of how the area’s canal system was forced to evolve.  Three different sections of the canal are involved in this complex arrangement, shown above.  The earliest of these phases belongs to the original Chester Canal, which begins at the river Dee and once headed straight along into a series of five locks that climbed the hill to the dramatic sandstone cut and onwards to Hoole and Boughton before turning south to Christleton and beyond.  The second phase is the Ellesmere Canal Company’s civil engineering work to incorporate the new “Wirral Line,” which headed in a roughly northerly direction out of Chester.  This now chopped off the Chester Canal at the base of the locks, demolishing two of the five locks, to create the Tower Wharf Basin.  The new arrangement cut off the canal from the river, meaning that another section of canal, called the Dee Branch, had to be created parallel to the main basin and accessed via a lock, to allow vessels to travel between the main line, the Wirral line and the Dee.  It is not an elegant solution, but it worked.  The rest of the canal is very straight forward as you walk towards Hoole, Boughton and beyond.  The historical interest in those sections of the canal is more about the bridges and the flanking architecture that grew up around the canal.

The docks at Ellesmere Port during the 19th century

The docks and wharves at Ellesmere Port during the 19th century, from the Ellesmere Port canal museum archives

In 1846 the decision was made to bring together the various canal and railway interests together under one umbrella organization, the Shropshire Union Railways and Canals Company, providing the different sections of canal from Ellesmere Port to Wolverhampton with a single name:  the Shropshire Union Canal.  In 1894 the Manchester Ship Canal opened, and the Ellesmere Port access to the Mersey was now via the new shipping channel.

In spite of canalization of the Dee in the 1730s was intended to make the rapidly silting river navigable and to make Chester competitive once again with Liverpool, but in spite of these measures silting continued and the river became impractical for serious commercial shipping and shipbuilding, particularly in the face of Liverpool’s rapid expansion.  The last ships were built on the Dee in the early 20th century, ending a centuries old industry, and the connection between the Shropshire Union and the river went out of use.

Chester Railway Station

Chester Railway Station 1848. Source: Hoole History and Heritage Society

The railway came to Chester in 1840, picking up some of the slack, but Chester’s days as a centre for trade and industry were over and the main financial opportunity that the railway brought was tourism.  The canal, however, continued to be used as part of the canal network, connecting to maritime trade via the Mersey.  Eventually, as rail replaced the canals, many of them became derelict, only reviving as leisure resources in the later 20th century.

The canal attracted many businesses along its edges, and today the canal preserves a considerable amount of commercial and industrial heritage, adding a welcome extra dimension to Chester’s historic legacy.  The canal network today is used for pleasure, mainly in the form of cruising, walking and cycling.  It still covers a vast region of England and Wales and is managed by a mixture of state organizations and by both regional and local charities.

Schematic map showing how Chester relates to the canal network

Schematic map showing how Chester relates to the canal network today. Source: Swanley Bridge Marina

As canals have become attractive for residential development, new housing has also been erected, some developments more sympathetic than others, but all interesting.  The mixture is captured in the walk in Part 2. Apart from a few isolated examples, most of the warehousing that once flanked the basins and the canal has long gone, replaced by modern apartments, including student accommodation and retail outlets.

The Dee no longer connects to the canal network.  The lock between the river and the Dee Branch of the canal, lying just over Sealand Road, is completely derelict.  One of the locks further along is padlocked shut. The old swing bridge that had allowed vessels to interrupt road traffic to enter the canal network was replaced by the fixed road bridge in the 1960s.   Today the leg of the Dee branch of the canal running parallel to the Basin, once used for access to the river, is used for mooring privately owned narrowboats.

Signage at the canal basin showing information about Telford's Warehouse

Signage at the canal basin showing information about Telford’s Warehouse

I have kept this history brief, merely to introduce the walk.  Rather than reinventing the wheel, please see the Sources below, which contain much more information.  The three video links also provide an excellent overview, between them, of the canal, its history, and some of the buildings and businesses associated with it.  The first is by John Herson, one of whose guided canal walks I have done and thoroughly enjoyed, which focuses on Tower Wharf, the Canal Basin and the relationship of the canal with the Dee.  The second is by Stuart Shuttleworth and looks at the main line of the canal as it passes through Chester.  Together they form a brilliant introduction to the subject, showing the key places to visit.  At the end, underneath Sources, there is another video by “Pastfinder,” which is longer and explores what remains today in more depth, walking and talking at the same time, making it quite easy to retrace his footsteps.  There are some fascinating additional pieces of information in this.

John Herson:

Stuart Shuttleworth:

 

Sources:

A lot of information is contained in the two videos above and the one at the end of the post.

Other sources of information are as follows:

Books and papers

Carrington, Peter 1994. English Heritage Book of Chester.  Batsford / English Heritage

Martin, Richard 2018. Ships of the Chester Rivers.  Shipbuilding on the Dee from Chester to the Point of Ayr 1800-1942. Bridge Books

Mosse, J., David Lobband and Judith Pile 2023 (9th edition).  Collins Nicholson Waterways Guide 4. Four Counties and the Welsh Canals.  HarperCollins

Nicholson, R. 1989 (4th edition). Nicholson/Ordnance Survey Guide to the Waterways 2: Central. Robert Nicholson Publications and Ordnance Survey

Shearing, Edwin A. 1985. Chester Canal Projects: Part I. Journal of the Railway and Canal Historical Society. Vol XXVIII, no.3, November 1984. p.98-103

Shearing, Edwin A. 1985. Chester Canal Projects: Part II. Journal of the Railway and Canal Historical Society. Vol XXVIII, no.4, March 1985. p.146-154

Ward, Simon 2013 (2nd edition). Chester. A History. The History Press

Websites

Canal and River Trust
Welcome to Chester. Escape the city on this tranquil waterway (PDF)
https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/media/document/0z8YCnXdfYHg_am-LmUGSg/p22Wl115w_dWrQTRa-XYJd5Q5nl2UR6N17EY2G1JFyc/aHR0cHM6Ly9jcnRwcm9kY21zdWtzMDEuYmxvYi5jb3JlLndpbmRvd3MubmV0L2RvY3VtZW50Lw/0192bddd-4001-76ad-a95b-0ad3662ccdcc.pdf

Canal Routes
Chester Canal History
https://www.canalroutes.net/Chester-Canal.html
Chester Canal Route
https://www.canalroutes.net/Shropshire-Union-Canal.html#Chester-Canal-Route
Ellesmere Canal – Wirral Line
https://www.canalroutes.net/Shropshire-Union-Canal.html#Ellesmere-Canal-Wirral-Line
Shropshire Union Canal
https://www.canalroutes.net/Shropshire-Union-Canal.html

Cheshire West and Cheshire
Chester Canal Conservation Area Character Appraisal Ellesmere Port to Nantwich (PDF)
https://www.cheshirewestandchester.gov.uk/documents/planning-and-building-consultancy/total-environment/conservation-and-design/conservation-area-appraisals/canal-conservation-area-elesmere-port-to-nantwich-latest-version-261118.pdf
Chester Characterization Study
https://www.cheshirewestandchester.gov.uk/your-council/policies-and-performance/council-plans-policies-and-strategies/planning-policy/chester-characterisation-study

chesterwalls.info
Photographs of the Chester Canal Old and New, parts 1-5
https://chesterwalls.info/gallery/canalgallery.html

Chesterwiki
(with a lot of adverts interspersed)
Canalside
https://chester.shoutwiki.com/wiki/Canalside
Canal and Boatyard
https://chester.shoutwiki.com/wiki/Canal_and_Boatyard

Grace’s Guide to British Industrial History
James Brindley
https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/James_Brindley
William Jessop
https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/William_Jessop

Heritage Chester
Bite-Sized Wonder – The Lead Shot Tower
YouTube video

Historic England
Bridge of Sighs, Upper Northgate Street
https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1375967
Telfords Warehouse, Raymond Street

https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1375919?section=official-list-entry

Inland Waterways Association, Chester and Merseyside Branch
Chester Heritage Port Designation Document (PDF)
https://70cf2f03-3eb2-43c8-889f-b8f841fc3757.usrfiles.com/ugd/70cf2f_64e6633c34b9420f8c06a368857d1a42.pdf

UK Waterways Guide
Map of the Shropshire Union Canal
https://www.ukwaterwaysguide.co.uk/map/shropshire-union-canal/all-branches

“Pastfinder”:

A revealing talk and guided tour: The Churchill Building and the Western Command 1937 – Today

The Churchill Building portico dates from 1997, but the original Neo-Georgian military Western Command building can be seen behind it.

The portico dates from 1997, but the original Neo-Georgian military Western Command building can be seen behind it.

With many thanks to Chantal Bradburn for an excellent lecture in the Churchill Building in the University of Chester’s Queen’s Campus.   Chantal is the University’s Outreach representative, with a strong background in art history and a particular interest in architecture in its social context.  Her talk, entitled “Western Command (Churchill Building),” covered the design and original purpose of the building as the headquarters of the Western Command, including the fascinating underground bunkers, and the building’s subsequent phases of use.  The presentation and the subsequent walk around the building’s exterior brought the Western Command to life.  Chantal’s ability to convey an impression of the building as it was in military times, based partly on her research and partly on feedback from people who have attended the talk or contacted her over the years, was of critical importance, because the interior had been completely re-envisioned in grandiose style by the subsequent bank, and converted once again in more pragmatic terms into the University of Chester’s Business School.  Only the exterior retains the essential character of the Western Command building.

The eastern wing of the Western Command (Churchill Building) gives a good impression of how the building appeared when it was first built

The eastern wing of the Western Command (Churchill Building) gives a good impression of how the building appeared when it was first built

The building, then known as Capital House, was completed in around 1938, almost certainly in response to the threat of war.  Neo-Georgian is not my favourite of the various architectural experiments in Chester.  I have grumbled on and off about the Wheeler Building on the blog for years, and there are a number of more modest buildings dotting the streets of the historic city whose architects seem to believe that slapping some symmetrical rectangular windows into plain blocks of undifferentiated brickwork will do the trick nicely, completely missing the point of refined elegance and delicate embellishments that characterized Georgian harmonies.  On the other hand, as Chantal pointed out, at least in the case of the Churchill Building there are good reasons for this style, which is better than most of its siblings, relating not merely to the practicalities of budget constraints for such a large building.

The eastern entrance to the Churchill Building with subtle nods to Art Deco 

The eastern entrance to the Churchill Building with subtle nods to Art Deco

The importance of establishing a dignified military presence referenced the power and prestige of the city’s Georgian predecessors, which were themselves influenced by Classical architecture, whilst some low-key features nod to both the medieval military past and, in an even more subtle way, other contemporary styles.  I would not have noticed these had Chantal not pointed them out.  Although the subsequent Northwest Securities bank slapped a gigantic Classical-style portico on the front, the original building consisted of flat-roofed blocks that provided an impressive frontage, which relies for its impact on the size of its footprint rather than the height of its two-storey walls.  Chantal pointed out that the position of the building was strategically very fine, with its views over the river and the city beyond, only matched in its vantage points by the site chosen for the castle.

As the northwest HQ for intelligence on what was quite literally Britain’s western front during the war, the personnel serving in the Western Command building had a critical role not only leading up to and during the war, but for a surprising amount of time after it.  Chantal told us a great many stories about the role of the building and the people who worked there, highlighting the complexities that different levels of security caused for both employees and contractors, and emphasizing the degree of secrecy that was associated with the activities that took place within the Churchill Building.

Bunkers excavated into the sandstone at the Churchill Building. Source: 28DaysLater

To the east of the building, up-river, the remarkable and extensive underground bunkers were built to provide shelter and a command centre should it become necessary, both during and after the Second World War.  They extend from the level of the building down towards the river.  It is reputed that Churchill, who is known to have visited the building, may have met there with President Dwight D. Eisenhower and General Charles de Gaulle.  No documentation supports this view, but there are apparently anecdotal accounts that support the possibility.  The bunkers are now too dangerous to visit (see a photograph of a point of collapse on the 28DaysLater website).  The sandstone through which former miners in the army excavated to create the bunkers is sponge-like, attracting damp that is not helping with the stability of the underground structures.  Chantal showed photographs and explained past survey work and future plans (dependent as always on funding).

The building passed to the Royal Army Pay Corps in 1972, and from 1972 it was taken over as offices for a banking corporation.  The presentation took place in a huge room with an enormous table, all very glossy and highly polished, and heavily influence by Art Deco designs.  This was part of the bank’s improbable legacy.  It is quite staggering how the bank took over a military building and turned it into an extrovert and financially corrosive expression of self-indulgent excess.  Where these details have survived, the legacy is huge fun, but quite mad.  The bank’s vast portico, converting the Neo-Georgian blocks into a pseudo Classical temple, is equally pretentious. I am very fond of the University, having had a great time doing some post-graduate research there a couple of years back, but it really does seem to have saddled itself with buildings that for all their scale and practicality are amongst the least aesthetically charming of the various Cestrian styles.  In their favour, the University does make the most of them.

The opening of the Churchill Building by John Spencer Churchill (centre in grey suit), when it became part of the University of Chester in October 2015. Source: Cheshire Live

It is interesting to note that in the case of both military base and commercial bank, the building was off-limits to the public, not only physically but visually.  The arrangement of buildings at the time meant that the view through the gates, then in a different position, blocked any view of the heart of the complex.  It has been particularly interesting for local people who have lived in the area for a number of decades to have access to the building at last, and to be able to see what was so long hidden from view, perhaps particularly when family members and friends worked there.

The building had been out of use for a decade when the University took it over in 2015 to make it the centre for their Business School, with most of the building adapted to this task with the usual collection of teaching, research and computer rooms, areas for socializing and a café.  Wisely, the decision was made to preserve some of the more elaborate flourishes of the bank’s idea of good taste, and there are some distinctly New York style decorative features in the foyer.  More to the point, the building’s foundation stone and its frame, appropriately made of carved stone rather than the less expensive brick, has been preserved and is now installed above the reception desk as a very welcome piece of the building’s material heritage.  The exterior, now sporting a leaded dormer roof, still retains the essence of its stern and uncompromising military purpose, but its survival first as a bank and then as a major component of a university campus is a testimony to its durability.

It is impossible to do justice to Chantal’s talk, which was stuffed full of information.  Chantal does these talks quite frequently, and I do recommend that you keep an eye open for her next ones, because she provides a vivid insight into a world that is not normally associated with Chester, and which was clearly a very important part of the city’s social and economic profile from the 1930s onwards.  More than any other talk that I have attended since moving to the area, this is the one that surprised me most, and left me with a new set of insights into Chester’s less publicized wartime and post-war history.  Splendid.

North-facing aspect of the Churchill Building

Day Trip: The RAF Museum Midlands at Cosford, near Telford

Sopwith 1 1/2 Strutter (replica) in Hangar 2

Even if aircraft and aviation history are not really the first things that spring to your mind when you are looking for a museum to visit on a day out in the general area, the RAF Museum at Cosford offers a thoroughly absorbing experience.  Aeronautical development has progressed so rapidly since the early 20th century that the first engineers and pilots might well find all the new innovations, capabilities and capacities that are on display at the museum fairly miraculous, and these have been significantly surpassed by much newer models.

This was my third visit.  The first visit was with my father who as a school boy at Calday Grammar on the Wirral had loved being in the Air Cadets, and went on to do his National Service in the RAF.  The second was with a friend whose father had served as a  Flight Engineer from before his 20th birthday during the Second World War, working and flying on Avro Lancasters.  Both my father and my friend brought away very personal experiences of the museum, but even without  these intimate connections, the RAF museum at Cosford is a rich journey into aeronautical history.  There is splendid innovation, superb technology, surprisingly aesthetic appeal and, in some cases, the sheer immensity of some of these vast monsters.  The full-life biographies of the aircraft themselves are themselves compelling, but the museum also tells dozens of stories about the people whose lives were embedded in the RAF, as well as in commercial travel, both in times of war and peace.===
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Hangar 4. Mikoyan-Guevich “MiG” 15bis.  Single seater jet intercept fighter, Russian-designed and notable for its use in Korea where its superior performance came as a shock to American pilots.  Maximum speed 688 mph. 1949-1970s

The aircraft are not exclusively British. There are American, German and Russian planes, as well as those built as joint enterprises.  The information boards compare and contrast them with contemporary British aircraft that they came up against, in terms of maneuverability, speed and technical specifications.  As well as planes there are also a couple of helicopters, staggeringly massive things that don’t seem even remotely aerodynamic, as well as some supporting ground vehicles including tanks, cars and aircraft tugs.  Although less obviously comprehensible, the range of aircraft engines on display also contributes to the story of aviation and its development, with information panels explaining how the engines improved the viability of aircraft.

Hangar 4. Hawker Siddley Vulcan in the foreground. A fabulous-looking long-range medium delta-wing bomber that was eventually converted for use as an air-to-air refuelling tanker

The focus on aircraft is not exclusively military.  Although there are a lot of those, several of the planes on display were commercial airliners of different sizes, built for carrying passengers, and the history of some of these early pioneers is well explained.

The museum is immense, taking up four gigantic hangars, each one with its own particular themes.  Although each of the Hangars is themed, there are some aircraft that don’t fit neatly into the themes, allowing for the inclusion of a lot of variety throughout all the hangars.

Bristol Britannia 312 turboprop aircraft known as The Whispering Giant due to is comparatively quiet engines. It first flew in August 1952. Due problems with the turbine engine less than 90 were made and sold to both civilian airlines, like the now defunct BOAC passenger carrier, and the RAF.

The Hangars

It is worth taking some time before you start your tour to have a look at the wall maps in the reception area, which provide details of how the different hangars connect. The numbering of the hangars is a little counter intuitive, because the first of the four that you visit is Hangar 2 (H2), then Hangar 3 (H3), then Hangar 4 (H4) and the last hangar that you visit is Hangar 1 (H1). The maps are dotted throughout the hangars but in order not to miss anything it is a good idea to sort it all out in your head in advance.  It is easy, for example, to completely miss the second hangar on your visit, because it is connected to the first hangar that you reach via two small doors that are relatively unobtrusive.  There is a guide book that has a copy of this map, copied below.  More visiting details are at the end as usual.

The site map from the Souvenir Guide (2024, Royal Air Force Museum), page 72

Hangars 2 and 3

The first hangar that you visit is Hangar 2, or H2.  To reach Hangar 2 the route takes visitors outside, passing between three magnificent aircraft, each with information boards, before passing a fourth, the innovative, versatile and very successful PBY Catalina flying boat and amphibious aircraft, at the entrance into Hangar 2.

On the other side of the door is a gallery dedicated to stories about RAF experiences between 1918 and 2018, before you pass into the hangar itself.

1940 wooden emergency exit hatch from the cockpit of Hawker Hurricane P2798 showing the cartoon cat Figaro, the personal marking of Wing Commander Ian Gleed, pilot and Second World War fighter ace

The function of the RAF, the world’s first independent air farce, remains unchanged across a hundred years: its mission is to defend the UK, to attack if required, to support in times of humanitarian crisis and to move people and equipment quickly across the world.

Like the other small galleries in the four hangars, this displays information about the immense variety of men and women who have served and continue to serve, with the vast range of skills that are required to make this military machine function. They also display the objects that related to those people, both formal and very personal.  This is an excellent way of using objects to connect people to their personal biographies and their official careers and the honours they were awarded.  Be sure to enter H3 from one door and return to H2 via the other so that you visit both galleries.

Page from the Souvenir Guide (Royal Air Force Museum 2024, p.32) talking about some of the highly personal measures that RAF personnel took to help them face the tasks before them.  Objects like these are just as much a part of RAF history as the aircraft in the museum

The main hangars in H2 and H3 focus on War in the Air and Test Flight, a mix of wartime and post-war aircraft.  Some of those on display are such icons that it is almost impossible not to reach out and touch.  In the First and Second World Wars, many planes were employed before it was possible to put them through their paces before they were needed in combat, and they were essentially put to the test in active service.

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The iconic Spitfire MK1, the oldest surviving example

 

The Boulton Paul Defiant was vulnerable to Luftwaffe fighters. Instead of being withdrawn from service, these were painted black and moved to night operations, although they were eventually withdrawn altogether.

 

TheGerman Junkers JU-88R-I

Although it is  not possible to convey the sheer immensity of the Avro Lincoln, it is an absolute giant of a thing.  Its design was based on the Lancaster, but although it was too late for a combat role in the Second World War, it served the RAF until 1963, long after the first jet engines had come into use.  Cosford doesn’t have a Lancaster, but this is an imposing creation in its own right.

An Avro Lincoln, giving no impression in this photograph of how massive it truly is

After the Second World War significant investment was made in developing technologies to provide specialized requirements, and testing became increasingly important.  Whilst some aircraft took on important roles in the RAF, others either failed to make it into production or were significantly modified before they were adopted.  The history of aircraft is as much about those that failed, or were not entirely successful, as it is about those that became either fundamental icons or invaluable workhorses of aviation history.  It is this mixture of aircraft biographies and narratives that define Hangars 2 and 3.

 

British Aircraft Corporation TSR2, Combat Prototype

Details of the British Aircraft Corporation TSR2, Combat Prototype

BAe Experimental Aircraft Project

 

Hangar 4

H4 is next, a soaring modern building themed around The Cold War.  It is a truly spectacular building in its own right, both outside and in, a functional and striking space for displaying a huge number of aircraft to best advantage.  This is all about a new generation of fighter and surveillance aircraft, missiles and drones, as well as support vehicles.  Entered from H2 at ground level, you find yourself confronting aircraft overhead, on the same level and below, with lifts as well as stairs to get down to the the lower level.  One of the novelties, apart from the aircraft overhead, is being able to walk along the gallery and view some of the vast machines that are sitting on the lower level face to face.

It is a magnificent visual display but as in the other hangars also has plenty of information about why each type of aircraft was built, and what makes them unique, plus information about the men and women who worked in these different contexts.  At the same time, it addresses the important and often vexed subject of conflicting ideologies and why such ideologies erupt into military action, making military assets a necessary aspect of modern life.  The focus is, as the name of the hangar indicates, the Cold War, and the opposing ideologies that resulted not merely in defensive strategies but also in both armed conflict and, in an attempt to reduce the likelihood of war, such initiatives as the North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO).
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The Vickers Valiant of 1955, designed for nuclear strikes, and withdrawn form service in 1965. Group Captain Ken Hubbard, caption if Vickers Valiant XD818 remembers its first drop of a British thermonuclear bomb with the resulting mushroom cloud “a sight of such majesty and grotesque beauty that it defies description.”

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Douglas Dakota

The Lightning, the first RAF fighter capable of flying at twice the speed of sound, but with short operational range

Details of a personalized Handley Page Victor, which entered service in 1958

Sikorsky MH53 Pave Low long range combat, search and rescue helicopter

Sikorsky MH53 Pave Low interior

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Scottish Aviation Twin Pioneer light transport

 

Hangar 1

The last of the hangars, H1, is themed along the lines of Transport and Training.  Transport of equipment, personnel and supplies is a major element of airforce logistics, and aircraft designed specifically for these tasks may be either passenger carriers or sometimes gigantic warehouses on wings designed to carry whole platoons or heavy armoured vehicles and armaments.  Training aircraft may be tiny by comparison with some of the vast aircraft in tis hangar, used for acclimatizing trainee pilots and building up the skills of both trainee pilots and other air and ground crew, including engineers.  This hangar also has an excellent display of engines, which also required the training of aircraft engineers, giving insights into the anatomy of these power houses propel aircraft off the ground and keep them in the air.

Fairchild Argus II light transport, which entered service in 1932

Hawker Siddeley Andover E.3A. Originally designed as a transport aircraft, it was converted to carry out calibration duties on radar and radio navigation aids

Percival Pembroke, which entered service in 1953 for light transport and communications and was withdrawn only in 1988

Hawker Siddeley Harrier GR.3

If the size of the Lincoln was the first of the aircraft to blow my mind, the Armstrong Whitworth Argosy is seriously humongous.  It is impossible to convey its scale, with its twin tails and its enormous wing span. It entered service in 1962 and could carry up to 69 troops or 13,000kg of equipment including armoured vehicles. It is two storeys tall from ground level to the cockpit.  The lens on my camera couldn’t fit anything like the whole thing in, and gives no sense of what this aircraft actually looks like, so see the image below the one in the museum of one of these crazy-looking things in flight.

Armstrong Whitworth Argosy

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Armstrong Whitworth AW660 Argosy C1 XP445 in RAF Near East markings from the BAE Systems website.

 

Rolls Royce RB211 22C engine used in the Lockheed Tristar, and the Boeing 747 and 767. Compare with the size of the edge of the doorway immediately to its right. Huge!

Vickers VC10 C1K long range transport

Final Comments

My father in typically mellow mode after he chose the RAF for his National Service, looking awfully youthful.

Anyone who visits will take something different away from Cosford, depending on their interests and their personal connections with aircraft.  We left the UK when I was a child, returning in late 1979, and part of my experience of living overseas was flying to and from Britain to visit family, first as an “unaccompanied minor” and then on my own, making it a routine form of travel.  Once, flying from Heathrow to Liverpool with my father in a propeller plane, he warned me about coming in to land and the noise and vibration that I, having only flown in jets, would probably find startling.  I did, but what fun! Years later, in a passenger plane taxiing down a Heathrow runway, the captain told those of us on the right side of the plane to look out of the window to see a Harrier jump-jet do a vertical take-off.  Fantastic.  Twenty or so years ago I saw a Vulcan flying at the Farnborough Air Show and have never forgotten it, and at the same show saw a vast commercial passenger plane being put through extraordinarily acrobatic paces, and that too remains in my mind as a very different but remarkable sight.  Two years ago I was at RAF Duxford with my father, and was lucky enough to be there just as a whole series of vintage biplanes were taxiing down the field and taking to the sky. Magical.  Aircraft do have their own special sorts of aura, some darker and some brighter than others.

The aircraft at Cosford are beautifully displayed, and while you can just stand and admire the sheer magnificence of these astonishing beasts, the signage is all thoroughly educational without in any way talking down to the visitor.  The sheer amount of information delivered in a digestible way is genuinely impressive.

Visiting

The museum is free of charge, but parking is charged (at the time of writing) at £7.50.  You can check for updates on charges and opening times on the museum’s website here.  The museum hosts a number of events throughout the year, including an air show and corporate events, so do make sure that the entire museum is open on the day you want to go, and that none of the hangars are closed for any reason.

The car park is huge, and payment of the set fee is via machines that are dotted around.  There is a really nice cafe in the reception area, which offers drinks, snacks and lunches, and everything is bright, clean and modern.  You will need to stop at what looks like a ticket stand to confirm that you have paid for parking, and so that you can be counted, because the museum’s funding depends on the volume of footfall.

The museum’s shop is in the third hangar, with some fun stuff for sale, but you can buy a souvenir guide in the reception area.  I did buy this, with some considerable doubt in my mind because anything that refers to itself as a souvenir doesn’t inspire confidence, but this 73-page booklet, full of great photos and information, was really enjoyable and when I arrived home I read it cover to cover.  Just like the museum itself, this mixes stories of planes and people, and the result is admirable.

The museum recommends that you allow four hours to get around all four hangars, including walking around the outside aeroplanes.  Not being an expert, and not stopping to listen to the many audio recordings or watch the video displays, I did it in a leisurely two and a half hours, stopping to read a lot of the excellent signage and to take photographs.  I took an additional half hour afterwards to consume a heavenly coffee and a bite to eat.  So for me, including my snack break, it was a three hour visit, which I enjoyed phenomenally.

Lockheed Hurcules C Mk 3P medium-range tactical transport aircraft that could operate from short runways.

If it looks like rain take a brolly or a raincoat with a hood, because you will have to walk from the reception area outside to the first hangar, and there are aeroplanes to see in the grounds as well.  The first two hangars, 2 and 3, are physically linked, but it is easy to miss that there are doors letting you through.  From there, it is a matter of going outside again, into Hangar 4, and again across a small access road into Hangar 1.  If you want a coffee or something to eat afterwards, it’s few minutes to walk back to the reception area via another two outdoor planes.

There is disabled access throughout, including H3’s viewing gallery, lower level and shop.  Signage is all at a level that can be read by wheelchair users.

Museum Ground Crew

Only one of the aircraft, at least on my three visits, allows visitor access, and this was a guided tour for a fee at restricted times, so experiencing the planes is a matter of viewing either from the floor or, in the third hangar, from both floor level and via a viewing gallery.

If you don’t want to be inundated with children, avoid weekends and school holidays.  School trips mean that they are not completely avoidable, but you stand half a chance.

Every time I have been there, especially last month (October) when I turned up at opening time, there were volunteers everywhere who are there to offer knowledge and help you with any visiting information.  They are a hugely knowledgeable and friendly bunch.

If you have even a marginal interest in aircraft or the history of technology, this makes for a very rewarding day out.

Hawker Cygnet, 1924-29