Category Archives: Museums and galleries

The Liverpool Overhead Railway (aka the Dockers’ Umbrella) – 1893-1956

Carriage 3 of the LOR

Carriage 3 of the Liverpool Overhead Railway, preserved in the Museum of Liverpool

On a recent visit to the Museum of Liverpool on the Mersey waterfront, Carriage No.3 of the Liverpool Overhead Railway made a real impression. It is the only significant surviving artefact of the Overhead Railway, fully restored and displayed on a replica of the railway’s raised infrastructure.  It was one of the original 1893 carriages, and surrounding it on the first floor of the museum is a section dedicated to the Liverpool Overhead Railway (LOR).  Carriage No.3 is a glossy delight, and because it is displayed on an infrastructure reflecting its actual height of 16ft (4.8m) above the ground, it conveys some idea of how the Overhead railway originally looked, and how it acted as a sheltered walkway for the dockers moving between different docks and both company and administrative buildings on or near the waterfront.   Carriage No.3 is the last remaining carriage of the Overhead Railway’s trains,  where it is the centre of a display about the Liverpool Overhead Railway.

Overhead Railway at the Liver Building

Overhead Railway running past the Port of London Building, the Cunard Building and the Royal Liver Building, sometime after 1917, with horse-drawn carts still very much in evidence. Source: Gutted Arcades

Of all the heritage losses in Liverpool, one of the most painful has to be the Liverpool Overhead Railway (LOR), affectionately known as “The Dockers’ Umbrella” or “The Ovee.”  The world’s very first overhead electric railway, it opened in 1893 with thirteen  stations, and was extended over the following, serving both workers and tourists. The Overhead was damaged a number of times during the Second World War due to its proximity to the docks, but it was always swiftly repaired.  The announcement of its closure was made in 1955 and in spite of considerable protest it was shut down in December 1956, and was dismantled from September 1957.

The railway ran the length of Liverpool’s docks, the earliest of which, built by Thomas Steers in 1715, is now known as “Old Dock” (the subterranean remains of Old Dock can now be visited – see my post here).  It initiated the steady growth of Liverpool’s docks in a chain along its long, relatively straight waterfront  This gently curving, linear chain was the key to the viability of a single passenger transport system that would help to integrate all the docks and, most importantly, relieve severe traffic congestion at street level.

A map of the Liverpool Overhead Railway

A 1930s map of the Liverpool Overhead Railway

 

Electric train on the LOR, 1902

Electric train on the LOR, 1902. Source: Wikipedia

The port of Liverpool was expanding and increasing amounts of cargo and passenger traffic were putting a strain on the waterfront transport infrastructure, which was becoming increasingly congested with horse-drawn vehicles including carts, buses, omnibus- trams, cabs and carriages, as well as trucks and lorries and two horse-drawn goods railways.  In 1850 alone 3.5 million tons of shipping entered Liverpool, entering docks that ran along a densely packed waterfront that by 1890 reach 7-miles, more than double the length from the 1840s.   Most of the dock shipping consisted of sailing ships but an increasing number of steam-powered vessels were making their presence felt and were slowly replacing sail, becoming all-important with the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869.  All vessels had to be offloaded and then reloaded with an onward cargo, nearly all moved by horse-drawn cart.  Huge numbers of dockers, labourers and craftsmen as well as ship passengers (including emigrants) and transient sailors were putting enormous pressure on the city’s transport systems.  As the docks continued to be built along the waterfront it was becoming more difficult to transport dock workers, administrators, labourers, local and foreign sailors and passengers (including significant numbers of emigrants until c.1920) to their respective docks, ships and warehouses, whilst office workers in buildings on the waterfront found it increasingly difficult to get to and from work, with the all-important Dock Road becoming the most congested road in Liverpool.

Elevated railway New York 1876

Elevated railway in New York 1876. Source: Wikipedia

An elevated steam railway in New York provided a suitable model for a transportation system that might help to solve Liverpool’s traffic problems, and was first proposed for Liverpool in 1853 by engineer John Grantham.  However, it was not until after the docks had expanded even further and the traffic congestion reached crisis point that the idea was revived by the Mersey Docks and Harbour Board and dock engineer George Lyster was sent to New York to inspect the elevated railways that had operated so successfully there since 1872.  Shipping magnate Alfred Holt, a former member of the Mersey Docks and Harbour Board, put his name behind the project and in 1882 George Lyster presented a convincing report to the Board, which decided to proceed with an overhead railway.  The initial Act of Parliament that enabled the work to proceed were the Mersey Docks and Harbour Board Acts of 1879, 1882 and 1887, the latter enabling a double line to be built after the Board of Trade refused consent to the initial, more modest proposal for a single line with passing  places.  This was followed by the incorporation of the Liverpool Overhead Railway Company (LORC) in 1888.  Sir William Forwood, who had been President of the Chamber of Commerce between 1872 and 1877 was placed in charge.  In 1889 the new company issued a prospectus issuing £450,000 in £10.00 shares.

Approaching James Street Station

Approaching James Street Station. Source: National Museum of Liverpool

Seaforth Sands. Source: Wikipedia

The approach to Seaforth Sands Station. Source: Wikipedia

The first task was to source land, and this was leased from the Mersey Docks and Harbour Board (MDHB) for a period of 999 years, after which the engineers Douglas Fox and James Henry Greathead were appointed to oversee the development of the new overhead railway.  Although New York had provided the initial idea for the LOR, its trains were steam-powered.  This was rejected in favour of an electric railway , which would avoid a number of difficulties associated with steam, including the weight of steam engines, the danger of falling oil, coals and sparks on people, horses and vehicles below as well as the risk of fire to warehouses and sheds, particularly those that contained highly flammable sugar, rum and cotton.  There was some precedent for electric services.  In America there were nearly 2500 miles of electric tramways in service, in England the first electric railway was the City and South London line in 1890, an electric tramway was working in Blackpool, and in Liverpool the Electric Supply Company had built a small electricity generating station in the area where Liverpool’s commercial and administrative offices were based, and this was very successful.

The LOR under construction.

The LOR under construction. Pall Mall Budget 1893. Source: British News Online

Work started in November 1889. Iron columns were erected and spans of the main infrastructure, based on iron girders, were pre-assembled in the yard.  The standard span length was 50ft, but other sections had to be adapted to the needs of the railway line. The structures had to be stiff to withstand the impacts of the moving carriages, and this was supplied primarily by steel decking that was riveted into position.  Each span was raised on to a trolley on the railway and lifted into place by an ingenious mobile gantry and its cranes, with the gantry moving along the route as the assembly took place.  Steel rail tracks were then bolted on to sleepers.  The rails were laid according to a standard gauge track, 4ft 8ins in width. As it was raised 16ft (4.8m) off the ground, it acted as an “umbrella” for pedestrians and vehicles, whilst roads and tramlines criss-crossed beneath it.  Four movable bridges were built into the plan, to allow tall loads to pass through the railway.

The moving gantry with a horse-drawn train beneath it.

The moving gantry with a horse-drawn train beneath it. Pall Mall Budget 1th January 1893. Source: British Newspapers Online

 

Prime Minister Lord Salisbury turning on the electricity to the LOR

Prime Minister Lord Salisbury turning on the electricity to the LOR. From the Illustrated London News 11th February 1898. Source: British Newspapers Online

The build took four years, and when it was completed in January 1893 it had thirteen stations over an initial five mile route from Alexandra Dock in the north to Herculaneum Dock in the south and had its own electricity generating station at Bramley-Moore Dock.  The first official trip was undertaken by dignitaries on the 7th January 1893.  This was followed by a ceremony on 4th February to declare the Overhead Railway open, when no lesser personage that the the Prime Minister Lord Salisbury flicked the switch at the electricity generating station. The railway opened to the public on 6th March 1893.

Map of the Liverpool Overhead Railway in relation to the modern Metro rail line. Source: Wikimedia

Map of the Liverpool Overhead Railway in relation to the modern Metro rail line (click to enlarge). Source: Wikimedia

The LOR became an instant hit, an artery that connected all the docks along the waterfront.  It also connected all the important dock-related buildings that related to the docks, such as shipping companies, bonded warehouses, H.M. Customs, forwarding houses, provisioning merchants (supplying food to ships), hotels, hostels, pubs and other food and drink outlets, ship repair yards, transport depots, and stabling for horses.  It must have created a sense of integration and cohesion quite unlike that in any other British dock system.  The line was extended first in 1894 to Seaforth Sands in the north, partly to generate more income from residential areas in the evenings when the railway was under-employed in the more central areas, and to encourage an untapped tourist trade to the beaches beyond the docks (see below).  The LOR was extended again in 1896, this time to the south to Dingle at Park Road.  The Dingle station required the excavation of a new tunnel, its blocked entrance one of the last surviving features of the LOR, and was the only station on the line to have been underground.

The route was short, totalling just over seven miles, including its extension; its connections with other railways were unimportant, and its traffic was based on a very large number of passengers paying, on average, low fares . . . Compared with most railways, its customer base, rooted in the business of the port, was not so much changeable as positively volatile (Adrian Jarvis, 1996, p.6)

All of the overhead platforms required stairs from ground level.  Most of these were very basic, but the more popular stations, like Pier Head and Seaforth were more elaborate, with covered staircases and platforms. At Gladstone Dock Station there were two bridges over the track to enable people to change platforms.

Pierhead Station at the time of the station opening.

Pierhead Station at the time of the station opening, showing one of the movable bridges and a range of ships’ masts beyond. A horse-drawn tram can be seen under the LOR at left.  Illustrated London News, 11th February 1893. Source: British Newspapers Online

 

The earliest carriages were not pulled by a separate engine, because each carriage had its own engine installed.  Initially each train was composed of two carriages, each of which had a 60hp engine enabling a speed of 13 miles per hour.  The two powered carriages consisted of one 3rd class (for 40 passengers) and one 1st class (for 16 passengers).

 

An original illustration of the LOR carriage design

An original illustration of the LOR carriage design. Source: Grace’s Guide

 

Later on, a third carriage was added between the two powered ones with two 3rd class carriages flanking an unpowered middle one that was 1st class.  Combined, the three carriages could carry up to 140 people.  A single small steam engine named “Lively Polly”  was employed in the initial construction phases and was retained for maintenance work, including removal of ice from the tracks.

The curved seats made of wooden slats in 3rd Class

The curved seats made of wooden slats in 3rd Class were apparently very uncomfortable, but look great. Carriage 3 in the Museum of Liverpool

The carriages were manufactured in Birmingham by Brown, Marshall and Co.  Carriages like Coach 3 at the Museum of Liverpool were made of Burmese teak.  An initial order of 30 carriages was made for the LOR in 1892.  After the initial build they were sent to the Carriage Shed at Seaforth Sands for fitting with the electrics, with the motors installed under the floors.  Two classes were originally envisaged, a 1st and 2nd class but after 1905 only 1st and 3rd classes were employed to avoid confusion when the LOR joined forces with the Lancashire and Yorkshire Railway.

An advert for sightseers in the Museum of Liverpool. It is sensibly displayed behind glass, and as a result of the low light and reflections my photograph is very fuzzy, but clockwise from top left it advertises Mossley Hill Zoo (open between 1932 and 1938), the beach at Seaforth Sands, the docks themselves (“a wonder of the world”), and the River Mersey with all its exciting shipping traffic

As well as creating a transport link between the docks, corporate and administrative buildings and the residential areas of the city, the LOR provided sightseeing tours at weekends for Liverpool families.  Not only was the LOR initially a novelty, but it also provided superb views of the Mersey docks with all their cranes, masts and funnels, with ships of all shapes and sizes, from sailing ships to steamers, and from small tramp steamers to magnificent ocean liners.  The Liverpool Overhead Railway Company, with a keen eye to making the most of the railway, made arrangements with shipping lines for visitors with special tickets to enter the docks to visit some of the luxurious ocean liners that came into dock, providing local people with a sense of the unreachable, glamorous lifestyles of their fashionable passengers and of the far-off sophisticated and exotic places that the ships visited.

Seaforth Sands

Seaforth Sands. Source: Sefton Council Archives

The northernmost stop after 1894 was Seaforth Sands, and this gave access to the beaches to the north of the docks, providing a more conventional day out at the seaside with the day-trip staples of sand, sea and ice-cream.  Special tickets allowed dogs to board the trains for family outings.  Links from the LOR to tram routes allowed visits to tourist destinations both within Liverpool and further afield.

In 1901 Seaforth Sands was the first ever railway station in England to have an escalator (a “Reno inclined elevator”) installed in a roofed-in passageway from ground floor to platform level.  It had wooden slats 3 inches wide that were faced with India rubber, with each tread running on wheels in continual motion, with a handrail that moved in tandem.  Although escalators had been in use for some time in Manhattan, New York, it was only the second to be installed in the UK, after Crystal Palace in London, and the first used on a railway.  A lovely piece in the Journal of Commerce in 1901 argues both the health and cost benefits:

An ingenious estimate is that the average passenger climbs in the ordinary way of travel  on elevated roads some 24,000ft vertically per annum, thus spending 13 1/2 hours in climbing and expending 1.85 horse-power.  With the inclined elevator this will be avoided, and will result in longer life to passengers, thereby retaining their customer longer to the railway,

Sadly, it had to be taken out of service when it became a real hazard due to women catching their long dresses in the moving parts.

Tickets from the LOR. Source

Tickets from the LOR at the Museum of Liverpool

In 1902 the LOR was forced to respond when the previously horse-drawn trams were replaced by electrified trams, which also carried passengers into the shopping areas that were beyond the reach of the railway.  In fear of the competition, the company increased the speed of their trains by upgrading their engines from 60hp to 100hp.  After some time the running costs proved to be prohibitive, and the increased strain on rolling stock also raised concerns, so in 1903 the trains were slowed to a more cost-effective speed.  Other costs were incurred from the wear and tear on wheels due to the curve line, but this was addressed by the LOR’s General Manager and engineer E.J. Neachell who innovated an automated lubrication system that significantly improved their longevity.

“New signal for Electric Railways” Railway Times, 2nd March 1907

Another important innovation on the LOR in 1902 included an automatic semaphore signalling system to replace manual signals.  The company was the first railway to install an automatic signalling plant in Britain after it was approved by the Board of Trade in December 1891.  It came into service in March 1893.

In 1905, in another attempt to maximize revenue, a direct connection was made to the Lancashire and Yorkshire Railway’s North Mersey Branch at the far north of the LOR a through-train was run to Southport, and in 1906 a link was made to Aintree.  It was hoped that the direct through service might produce more passengers travelling first class.  Although the through-train service to Southport was never sufficiently successful, and ceased in 1914, passengers could still change from the LOR to the Lancashire and Yorkshire to travel to Southport, and the link to Aintree continued to be popular for race meetings.  By this time, just before the outbreak of the First World War, the LOR was carrying some 10 million passengers.  The railway continued in its role as a passenger service during the war years, but it also saw some changes, servicing the passengers from the troop and supply ships coming into dock.

The Three Graces: The Royal Liver Building at left, the Cunard Building in the Middle and the Port of Liverpool Building at right.

Some of the most remarkable of Liverpool’s buildings had to adapt to the LOR.  Sitting behind it, the striped White Star Line building was finished in 1898, five years after the opening of the LOR.  Even more dramatic than that iconic building, the waterfront was changed forever between 1907 and 1917, the trio of buildings known as “The Three Graces” were built after the LOR had been running for nearly a decade on the site of the 1777 George’s Dock, which was still in situ in 1893, but was in-filled in 1900.  The Port of Liverpool Building (the headquarters of the Mersey Dock and Harbour Board) was completed in 1907, the Royal Liver Building in 1911 and the Cunard Building in 1917. The LOR ran, uninterrupted, behind the new buildings. Other notable buildings that would have been in view of the Overhead Railway as Liverpool’s impressive waterfront continued to evolve  are the Art Deco style George’s Dock Building (1934) and the India Buildings (1932).

Bombing damage at James Street Station.

Bomb damage at James Street Station. Source: National Museums Liverpool

In the early years of the railway, both manned signal boxes at key junctions and automated semaphore signals were used.  An innovation was introduced in 1921 when Westinghouse coloured light signals were introduced.

During the Second World War the LOR continued to serve as a vital link between all the docks.  Due to its proximity to  the Liverpool docks, which were targetted by German bombers, the Overhead Railway was damaged during these raids several times.  James Street Station was almost levelled in 1942, for example, and Canada Dock Station was hit twice, but most of these attacks were at night and no trains were lost.  In all cases the bombed-out sections were brought back into service very quickly.  During repairs a bus service was introduced to transport passengers between stations either side of damaged sections.  As with many other services, for the first time women were employed in ticket offices and as conductors on trains to replace the men who went to war.  Standard maintenance was severely reduced during the war, and it is probable that this neglect was partially responsible for the financial difficulties in which the Liverpool Overhead Railway Company found itself after the war.

Source: British Newspapers Online

In 1955 the decision to close the Overhead Railway was made.  The announcement of the closure was made in the February of that year, and the authorities remained immovable, in the teeth of vocal public opposition.  The main reason was the rust corrosion of the iron and steel that carried the railway.  For a private company with limited resources, raising the estimate sum of over £2 million to renovate the railway was inconceivable for the Liverpool Overhead Railway Company in the post-war period, and the city authorities made the decision not to rescue it, whilst nationalization of the main railway companies in 1948 under the Transport Act 1947 excluded the LOR because it was not part of the main railway network.

The Liverpool Overhead Railway finally closed on December 30th in 1956 and the Liverpool Overhead Railway Company was forced into voluntary liquidation.  Demolition began at the south end of the LOR in 1957.  The iron bridges were all dismantled and purchased by scrap dealers for recycling.  The Liverpool Corporation provided a bus service to replace the railway.

Source: British Newspapers Online

 

Disappearance of the Overhead Railway.

Disappearance of the Overhead Railway, with the supports in the foreground and the railway being dismantled in the background. Liverpool Echo, 27th September 1957. Source: British Newspapers Online

Cap badge from the LOR

Cap badge from the Liverpool Overhead Railway. Source: Wikipedia

Final Comments

The Liverpool Overhead Railway was viable because of the arrangement of the docks along an almost straight waterfront.  As a comparison, London’s docks were dotted along the Thames in separate, discrete systems that spread inland on both sides of the river due to the extreme u-shaped bends, rendering them unsuitable for anything like the Overhead Railway.  Transport and communication between the different London dock systems was often laborious.  See the London and Liverpool dock maps below for comparison, showing the dramatic difference between the two systems, demonstrating how Liverpool’s waterfront development made the LOR a very suitable solution, creating a fluid means of carrying passengers between different docks and related warehousing, commercial and government buildings.

1904 map of the London docks by Edward Standford

1904 map of the London docks by Edward Standford

A map of the Liverpool Overhead Railway

A map of the Liverpool Overhead Railway in the 1930s, showing the layout of the docks

 

The Docklands Light Railway

The Docklands Light Railway. Source: Visit London

As well as being the world’s first electric elevated railway, the Liverpool Overhead Railway was the first to install an escalator, the first to introduce automatic semaphore signals and the first to introduce colour signalling lights.  As well as being important to local history, the Liverpool Overhead Railway remains an important part of British dockland history, partly because of its innovative approach as a feat of electrical engineering, with its ongoing committent to innovation, but also because of its role in Liverpool’s social and economic history.  It influenced many other elevated railways including London’s driverless Docklands Light Railway, which opened in 1987 to link parts of the newly developed financial centre in London Docklands with the City and the underground network.   In some ways, London’s Docklands Light Railway serves a similar function today, although with a lot less personality, linking business and commercial centres that need to be connected to each other and to the City.

Even though the LOR was demolished in 1956, its loss is still deeply regretted in Liverpool, with many local people who were children at the time retaining memories of how it looked and sounded.  The Museum of Liverpool has some recorded memories to listen to, and Peter Grant’s book (see Sources below) has compiled some excellent short accounts of people’s experiences.  My great-grandfather, who was a French sailor from Toulouse, was on shore leave in Liverpool after his ship docked in Liverpool when he met my great grandmother.  When his ship left, it left without him.  Following marriage, he settled into life in Liverpool, not as a sailor or docker but as a driver on the Liverpool Overhead Railway, reinventing himself as one of the many moving parts of Liverpool’s dockland infrastructure.  His was one of a great many lives shaped by the Liverpool Overhead Railway.

When the LOR was first built most of the road traffic was horse-drawn, but by the time it was demolished, only a few horses remained, and cars and trucks were the order of the day.  It seems inevitable that as lorries became bigger and more numerous in the following decades, a dockland-wide 16ft height limit would eventually have made transporting goods to and from the docks impossible, but it is a great shame that a portion of it was not preserved as a matter of heritage preservation.  One sympathizes with the Liverpool Overhead Railway Company, but the city council seems, with hindsight, to have been rather more accountable for failing to preserve a portion of the overhead railway for posterity.

Crosby Herald. 24 January 2002

Report about a personal archive about the Overhead Railway. Crosby Herald January 2002. Source: British Newspapers Online


Visiting

Museum of Liverpool

Museum of Liverpool

Given that the Liverpool Overhead Railway was demolished without leaving a single section in tact for heritage purposes, visiting might seem like a tall order.  There is, however, a section at the Museum of Liverpool devoted to the Railway, which preserves the last of the original 1893 LOR carriages, Carriage 3, and has been placed on a piece of replica railway infrastructure, 16ft above the ground just as the original was, to give a good sense of how it must have looked.  The museum is free to access.

The opening of the tunnel from Herculaneum Station to Dingle Station is still visible and there are also a number of truncated support uprights preserved where they were incorporated into sections of wall along the line of the old LOR.

 

Carriage 3, one of the original batch of carriages to be ordered

Carriage 3, one of the original batch of carriages to be ordered, now on display in the Museum of Liverpool

Sources

Stanley Swing and Lift Bridge

Stanley Swing and Lift Bridge. Pall Mall Budget 12th September 1893. Source: British Newspapers Online

The above is a massive simplification of a very complicated story, in which political agendas and competition with road-based systems were perhaps just as important as engineering considerations.  If you want the full story, I found Adrian Jarvis’s book the most useful, with a very insightful analysis of the Company’s financial challenges.  For a short history with some splendid photographs see Peter Grant’s book, produced for the Liverpool Echo.  The other titles listed also contributed very useful information, with C.E. Box’s being the most technical for those interested in engineering details.

Books and papers

Anon 1901. Inclined elevator at Seaforth. The Journal of Commerce, January 20th 1901, p.3

Box, Charles E. 1984 (Revised by Adrian Jarvis). The Liverpool Overhead Railway.  Ian Allan Ltd

Gahan, John W. 1982. Seventeen Stations to Dingle.  Countryvise / Avon-Anglia

Grant, Peter (compiler) 2011.  The Liverpool Overhead Railway.  Trinity Mirror Media

Jarvis, Adrian 1996. Portrait of The Liverpool Overhead Railway. Ian Allan Publishing

Neachell, E.J. 1916. The Liverpool Overhead Railway. The Railway News, 5th February 1916, p.231-232

 

Websites

The British Newspaper Archive
https://www.britishnewspaperarchive.com/home 

BFI
Liverpool Overhead Railway 1893-1956 (video)
https://replay.bfi.org.uk/video/d6a0f2a3-fa48-5487-b722-d0e2a4997aa7

British History Online
Liverpool: The Docks
https://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/lancs/vol4/pp41-43

Grace’s Guide to British Industrial History
Liverpool Overhead Railway
https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Liverpool_Overhead_Railway
1923 Visit to the Works
https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Liverpool_Overhead_Railway:_1923_Visit_to_the_Works

National Museums Liverpool Collections
Liverpool Overhead Railway
https://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/collections/social-history/overhead-railway

Wikimedia Commons
Liverpool Overhead Railway map
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c2/Liverpool_Overhead_Railway_map.png?utm_source=commons.wikimedia.org&utm_campaign=index&utm_content=original

Videos:

1) Liverpool Overhead Railway (including rare footage). A documentary about the LOR (37 minutes long)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xg0EAJ7OAk 


2) “Liverpool Scenes 1896”
begins in the city with a scene of milling horse-drawn trams, and then moves to the Overhead Railway where footage is taken from one of the carriages over the docks – wonderful to see all those masts.

 

3) Five-minute footage of the LOR in colour

 

The Victoria Museum and Art Gallery, Liverpool

Victoria Museum and Art GalleryOn an unplanned day-trip to Liverpool I walked up from Central Station to the Victoria Museum and Art Gallery, which is conveniently opposite the Catholic Cathedral, which I also visited on the same day (gorgeous). Visiting details for the Victoria are at the end of this post.

The museum is owned by the University of Liverpool, and was originally designed to be used for university activities, with lecture theatres, teaching rooms, staff offices, commons rooms and a library.  It was the first building to be commissioned by the university, and is thought to be the origin of the term “red brick universities.”  It was converted into a museum and art gallery in 2008.  Like most university collections the Victoria has a diverse mixture of objects collected by university academics and contributed by donors.  As well as art works including paintings and sculpture, there are examples of the decorative arts, including furniture and ceramics, as well as typical 19th century zoological, botanical and geological specimens, and scientific equipment.  It is not every university collection that is able to boast possession of one of Turner’s most admired works, but it is the variety and range of items that really characterizes the collection.

The museum building is a treat in its own right, both outside and in, a marvellous Victorian extravaganza, reflecting all the prosperity, self-confidence and extravagant creativity of 19th century Liverpool.  It belongs to a trend that saw investment in national public collections of fine and decorative arts, a philanthropic urge to invest in cultural resources and make them available to a wide range of people.  The Grade -2 listed building was built in 1892, designed by no less a personage than Alfred Waterhouse, whose most famous building is probably the Natural History Museum in London.  It is built in a mixture of red brick and darker conventional brick, creating attractive contrasts in both colour and and it features towers, turrets, Gothic-inspired windows and doorways, and some great chimneys.  The interior is magnificently over-the-top, with extensive use of glazed tiles, terracotta and Burmantofts faience, many moulded into sculpted shapes, in a variety of bright, glossy colours.  The cafe on the ground floor is located in the middle of this remarkable mixture of colours and textures, but it also extends up the staircases.

The first floor contains both permanent and temporary exhibitions.  When I was there, one of the temporary exhibitions was Seeing Green:  “The artists featured in this display each had their reasons for exploring greenery in their work. John Nash, for instance, turned to landscape painting as a form of therapy to heal from trauma. Caroline Emily Gray Hill found inspiration in the flowers near her home, continuing to paint well into later life. Meanwhile, Jim Russell, an environmentalist, expressed his values by creating art on recycled materials.”  These paintings were arranged around a curving corridor, all very well illuminated and very effective against the red background.

Adrian Berg. “Gloucester Lodge, Regent’s Park, London” 1981

“Flowers and Foliage” by Lady Caroline Emily Gray Hill, c.1920. Oil on Board

Greenbank House. John Baum 1972.

Off this corridor there are a series of galleries displaying other items from the collection from a variety of time periods.  The following are just a few examples, admittedly picking out the ones that most appealed to me.

Dame Elizabeth Frink's 1967 "Gogglehead"

Dame Elizabeth Frink’s 1967 “Gogglehead”

Halima Cassell’s 2013 “Noir Rhythm”

 

Centurions by Arthur Dooley, 1967

“Centurions” by Arthur Dooley, 1967. More examples of Dooley’s work can be seen in the Catholic Cathedral opposite the museum

 

Mitzi Solomon Cunliffe. Loosestrife, 1951

Mitzi Solomon Cunliffe. Loosestrife, 1951

 

One of the original fireplaces in the Victoria Building

Seacombe slip plate c.1830, transfer-painted.

Seacombe slip plate c.1830, transfer-painted. Herculaneum Pottery. Based on a drawing by Samuel Austin and showing the River Mersey in the early 1800s. The spire at the rear was the tallest building in Liverpool at the time

A Hispano-Moresque tin-glazed earthenware dish with lustre. Spain, c.1600.

A Hispano-Moresque tin-glazed earthenware dish with lustre. Spain, c.1600. The technique was introduced by Moorish Arabs from northwest Africa, but the IHS abbreviation in the centre is Christian

Retracing your steps past the stairwell, small galleries off another tiled corridor (looking rather as though it has been influenced by the Mezquita at Córdoba).  These display more paintings, again a large variety of styles and types, with one gallery devoted to the original plans for the Victoria Building itself.

J.M.W. Turner 1815.

J.M.W. Turner 1815. The eruption of the Soufriere Mountains on the Island of St Vincent in 1912. Oils on canvas

Artist and Model 1974 by David Hockney,

Artist and Model 1974 by David Hockney, showing an imagined encounter between Pablo Picasso and Hockney. Picasso had died the year before, and the two actually never met. Etching.

Yinka Shonibare: “Unstructured Icons – King” 2018. Woodblock print with fabric collage. One of a series of six prints showing historical Western figures

Egyptian landscape by Dorothea Wright, c.1973. Lithograph

Egyptian landscape by Dorothea Wright, c.1973. Lithograph

Stephen Conroy. "Head Studies (2)" 1992. Etching

Stephen Conroy. “Head Studies (2)” 1992. Etching

The Rape of the Sabines 1. By Leon Kossoff 1998. Etching and drypoint

 

“End of Meeting” by John Heritage 1990. I loved this painting at first sight, because it perfectly reflects just how I feel at the end of a long, tedious and probably unnecessary meeting.  Let me sleep or beam me up.  It is a shame that the reflections in the glass, showing the glazed brickwork and floor, have made it impossible to photograph well, but this is a really great, humorous piece.  You can see it on ArtUK here.

Head of an Irishman. By Lucian Freud 1999. Etching

One of Alfred Waterhouse's plans of the Victoria Building in the 1830s

One of Alfred Waterhouse’s plans of the Victoria Building in the 1830s

On the top floor, The Tate gallery space is named for sugar magnate Henry Tate and was the original library.  It is an architectural spectacle in its own right, soaring upwards to an impressive roof space.  This gallery is dedicated to scientific discovery and innovation.  It  includes specimens from the natural world, including fossils, geological samples, scientific equipment and objects that demonstrate the newly discovered Enlightenment and subsequent interest in how new ideas and technology was and should be employed.

 

Stenter ASSt 1-1 rocket engine

Stenter ASSt 1-1 rocket engine for missile propulsion. Bristol Siddley Engines Ltd

Cast of Albert Einstein by Jacob Epstein, 1993

Gorgeous Predynastic Egyptian pottery. On the left a stone vessel made of porphyry. On the right, a pottery vessel made to look like a stone vessel (a skeuomorph).  Professional archaeological investigations in Egypt followed on from treasure-hunting and helped to establish an academic understanding of Egypt, both Pharaonic and prehistoric.

Great ideas that weren't all that great

“We asked members of the public to tell us about great ideas they’ve had. Not all them turned out to be that great.”

Cunard letterhead

Cunard letterhead describing how collisions were avoided by restricting the Transatlatic fleet to specified routes.

Linda Stein’s “Knight Adagio” 2006. “Stein makes a visual world where men wear dresses and women where armour and where lines of gender become blurred into androgyny.”

The green quadrangle

The green quadrangle, viewed from one of the windows on a rainy day.

 

Visiting

The Tate Gallery

The museum is located on the corner of Brownlow Hill and Ashton Street, with its entrance on Ashton street at What3Words ///tribes.winks.cage.  It is opposite the rear entrance to the Catholic Cathedral, which is very much worth a visit in its own right.  The museum’s website, which contains details of opening times and special exhibitions, can be found at https://www.liverpool.ac.uk/victoria-gallery-and-museum/.  Entry is free (although do check for special exhibitions) and there are lifts to all floors.  The museum has a café on the ground floor.  I had an excellent latte, and the food being delivered to surrounding tables looked very tempting.  You do have to be careful with the café’s opening hours, which at the time of writing are limited.

From my home south of Chester I have driven into Liverpool a couple of times before, and have parked at Liverpool One, but on the whole I have found it more convenient to drive to Hooton Station on the Wirral, abandon the car in the huge car park, and take the train in.  With a day ticket it is a much drier option on a wet day, using the circular train route to get closer to places to visit.  Like London, Liverpool is awfully grey and rather dismal on a rainy day.

 

May Morris exhibition at the Lady Lever Art Gallery, Wirral, until 1st November 2026

May MorrisMay Morris (born 1862), the daughter of well known interior decorator and artist William Morris and his wife Jane Burden, was a talented artist in her own right, initially specializing in textiles.  She was also a committed socialist and a promoter of the role of women in the production of crafts.  The exhibition “May Morris: Crafting a Legacy,” developed in partnership with The William Morris Society, examines her art work both during her work at Morris and Co, the interior decoration company set up by her father, and as an independent artist.  It also looks at her contribution to the employment of women and the improvement of working conditions for the working class women that she employed.  The exhibition runs until 1st November 2026 at the Lady Lever Art Gallery in Port Sunlight on the Wirral.

The photographs below represent a very small sample of the total items on display.  All photographs were taken with my smartphone, and are mainly of very poor quality, but should give an idea of some of the exhibition’s content.  As usual there are also problems with the reflection of lighting on glass.

After a childhood spent between family homes on the Thames at Hammersmith and in rural Oxfordshire, and exposed to the ideas of her parents and their friends, at the age of 16 May Morris attended the National Art Training School in London, where she studied embroidery, a skill that she had learned from her mother and aunt.  She went to work at her father’s company and i 1885 became manager of Morris and Co’s embroider workshop, a position she continued to hold after her marriage in 1890.  A committed socialist, she provided opportunities for working class girls, providing training, pay and sensible working hours.  The workshop mainly produced items for the home, from table cloths to wall hangings.  After William Morris died in 1996 she left the company and made great progress as a freelance artist adding additional skills such as metalwork, tapestry and weaving to produce work for private commissions.  She also lectured in both the UK and North America, edited and wrote a number of publications, and founded the Women’s Guild of Arts in 1907, whilst also helping to organize international exhibitions.  She died in 1938.

Westward Ho!

Westward Ho! designed by May Morris and embroidered by her mother Jane, early 1880s. Silks on unbleached linen.

"Decorative Needlework"

“Decorative Needlework” as written by May Morris and published in 1993. 125 copies with this special cover were produced. Apologies for the blurred photograph.

May Morris designs

Two designs by May Morris for Morris and Co. 1885-1890

Arcadia wallpaper.

Arcadia wallpaper. Designed by May Morris c.1886. Made with 12 woodblocks.

Design by May Morris 1921

Design by May Morris 1921

 

"Horn Poppy" design 1885

“Horn Poppy” design by May Morris c.1885, using one of her favourite floral motifs

 

Gauntlets

Gauntlets designed by Charles de Sousy Rickets and embroidered by May Morris 1899

Dress 1905

Dress designed and probably embroidered by May Morris c.1905

The exhibition has a mixture of May Morris’s own works and those by artists whose work is thought to have influenced her.  It demonstrates the richness of her work, which certainly owes a great debt to her father’s ideas but also demonstrates her own approach to the decorative arts.

 

 

Plas Newydd in Llangollen #6 – The wood carvings

Plas Newydd. RCAHMW

Plas Newydd showing the exterior wood carvings with the porch, scene of the porch-warming party, at centre; and the canopies and carvings around the gothic-styled windows. Source: RCAHMW

 

Introduction

Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Sarah Ponsonby moved into an unassuming Welsh cottage on a hill a short distance from the centre of Llangollen in 1780, having abandoned their respective homes in Ireland to find a new life free from family pressures.  They soon began to transform the cottage and its gardens, and in the early 1800s added an extravagant porch and matching window canopies outside, composed of ornamental wood carvings.  This continued in the interior, where walls, doors, lintels and patches of ceiling, and even stair bannisters and stair treads, were covered with ornamental wooden panels.  The majority of the carvings date to the 17th century and display all the exuberance that characterize the decorative arts of that period.  In 1876, four decades after the deaths of the ladies in 1829 and 1831, the house was purchased by General John Yorke who not only maintained the house, but added a new wing and continued to develop the cottage along the lines envisioned by the ladies.  Although the new wing was demolished due to dry rot, his additions to the cottage survive, primarily the Oak Room where the kitchen had been located and which became a richly decorated drawing room.  Subsequent owners also made changes, but preserved the wood carvings and other decorative features in the original cottage.

Th entrance hall, looking through to the Oak Room

The sheer amount of ornamental carving used as wall coverings in a chaotic patchwork throughout the place is remarkable.  Although it is nearly all unprovenanced, it is an extraordinary survival of period pieces, having escaped woodworm, damp or dry rot, and it is beyond fortunate that a series of owners continued to appreciate and care for this very rare resource.

This post is the 6th in a series about Plas Newydd and looks only at the wood carvings at the house.  It follows on from five other posts about Plas Newydd.

Part 1: The introduction to Plas Newydd, introducing Lady Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby and their lives, tracing what happened to Plas Newydd following the death of Sarah in 1831, and how General John Yorke purchased the house in 1876 and continued to build on the ideas of the two ladies.
Part 2 talks about the patchworks of stained glass at Plas Newydd
Part 3 discusses the Delftware tiles, gilt leather wall hangings and intricate moulded ceilings
Part 4 focuses on the Gorsedd circle in the garden of Plas Newydd, and the Eisteddfod of 1907-8
Part 5 is a short piece looking at the possible links, in material terms, between Brynkinalt and Plas Newydd

 

Twin amphisbaena (mythical creatures with a head at each end)

====

Lady Eleanor’s journal and various letters describe how the ladies pursued their new obsession with enthusiasm in a period of changing tastes.  This sort of elaborate carving at Plas Newydd, often showing scantily clad figures and strange creatures, was thought to be antithetical to the newly celebrated neoclassical style.  Much of the now unfashionable furniture and wainscotting (panelling) was stripped out and lost forever.  The remarkable collection, assembled in the years prior to around 1814, preceded the revival of interest in what Philip Larkin called “the Jacobethan” by some years, meaning that the cost of salvaged wood from the period was probably still comparatively low.  The result is somewhat astonishing and the sheer quantity can be baffling.  It is a real patchwork with pieces from many different sources, most of them unrelated, all jammed together to form a single new identity.  It will not be to everyone’s taste but I find it irresistible.

Many of the carvings consist of deconstructed furniture – chair backs, bedsteads, bed posts, cupboard sides, table legs, church chests and pews, roof bosses canopies and more, as well as original pieces of wainscotting, all reassembled into a brand new customized kaleidoscope decorative arts.  A local carpenter was employed to fix the assembled panels to the walls, stairs and ceilings.  Most of it was carved in oak, the most popular material of the Jacobean period when most of these pieces were probably crafted.  It is probable that some Victorian imitations were also thrown in for good measure by General Yorke, suggested by inferior carving in lighter wood that was often associated with the leather wall coverings that he installed, but these too contribute to the sense of a grand medley of different themes, styles and textures.

Background:  Historic carved wood and the grotesque

The unpublished 2001 analysis of the carved wood at Plas Newydd by specialist David Bostwick is available to view at Plas Newydd in a file of useful material in the room known as the library.  It is not yet available online but has been summarized on the Early Tourists in Wales website on the Plas Newydd Wood Carving page by the website’s owner Michael Freeman.  David Bostwick dates the majority of the carvings to the 17th century, corresponding to the late Tudor and Stuart reigns, but he also found examples of earlier 15th and 16th century carvings as well as 19th century pieces that were mainly used to frame older work.  The only period apparently completely unrepresented by the carvings is the 18th century.  The main material used was oak although there is a very small minority of other woods employed.  Two items composed of inlay were also identified. Bostwick’s assessment was that although some pieces were made by skilled craftsmen, others were the mass-produced output of inferior workshops.  Unsurprisingly, he commented that there were clearly multiple sources for most the carvings, although he was able to identify that a small number of pieces had been produced by a single unidentified workshop.

Grotesque composition 1500-1512

Grotesque composition c.1500-1512. V&A Museum no. E.180-1885. Source: Wikimedia

In spite of the eclectic mix of dates and sources, there is a cohesion to the entire collection, that it might be expected to lack given its blatantly patchwork quality.  It coalesces around what has become known as the “grotesque,” a term referring to an artistic style that emanated from Italy and the discovery in 1485 of the Roman paintings in the Domus Aurea (golden palace) in Rome itself, lost after Nero’s suicide and subsequently built over by Trajan’s bath-house.  The 15th century term “grottesca” (plural grotteschi) derived from the idea that the Domus was “grotto-esque” due to the cave-like conditions in which it was found, and the term “grotesque” has since been used retrospectively to refer to any form of art, whether carved, moulded, painted, stitched or otherwise, that focuses on subjects that are in some ways fantastic or exotic, sometimes fearsome, sometimes funny, frequently bizarre and always imaginative.

This popular new style arrived in England particularly via prints from the Flemish lowlands and fused with the earlier but still ever-present Gothic grotesque, developing in secular rather than ecclesiastical contexts, helping country home owners to express their status and sense of their own achievements and grandeur.

It is intriguing how these two strands, the Italian grotesque and the Gothic, carried through so strongly into Elizabethan and Jacobean Britain, and how a lot of these themes dispersed into rural areas and were re-interpreted in vernacular terms, with new and distinctive styles emerging.  It is this fusing of grotesque traditions in the 17th century, re-interpreted with regional inflections, that found its way in such profusion into Plas Newydd.  Whilst by no means all of the Plas Newydd carvings fall into the category of the grotesque, they are conspicuous throughout the house.  At the same time, as the new styles spread throughout England and Wales, Classical motifs were re-interpreted in a vernacular style, with a panache that would undoubtedly have startled the Romans.

The examples at Plas Newydd represent most of the full range of various shapes, themes and subjects produced in the Jacobean period, and include  a wide panoply of characters that were much-loved in medieval imagery and survived well into the Jacobean period, including dragons and wyverns, wildmen, Green men, mythological and fantastical beings, as well as Old Testament, Christian and Chivalric topics.

Caryatid carvingThe Jacobean had its own sell-by date, and as the Baroque, Roccocco and Neoclassical styles replaced it, the darkness of oak panelling and furnishings, and the dominance of ornamental carvings that featured on every available architectural feature and item of furniture seemed clunky, ungainly and and over-ornate.  A new craving for elegance and light saw churches and manor houses being stripped of their wood and reinvented in the new fashionable, lighter styles. This stripping of religious and secular buildings continued well into the Georgian and Victorian periods, and some collectors took advantage of the intermittent availability of this suddenly unfashionable decorative artwork.  It is of course best when a building survives in tact with all of its architectural and decorative features in situ, but it is also a treat when a museum or private collection preserves the decorative artwork of the 17th century.  Plas Newydd is a superb example of an ex situ home for late Elizabethan, Jacobean, and both derivative and similar styles of decorative arts.

Lady Eleanor and Miss Ponsonby seem to have had a really good feel for just that continuum of the bizarre, the humorous, the striking and the fantastic, without being too fussed about either time period or provenance, and a great many carvings that fit within the broad definition of the grotesque are to be found at Plas Newydd, and their lead was followed most capably by General John Yorke.

The Plas Newydd Carvings

Installation of the Plas Newydd Carvings

A number of documents indicate that the collection of the carved wood began sometime in the first decade of the 1800s, when Elizabeth Mavor reports that Sarah had written that their collecting had become a “mania.”  The work, both inside and out, required that the ladies temporarily move all their furniture and other possessions from the ground floor to the upper storeys.  This implies that they had been accumulating the carved wood for some time and had it installed in one hit.  It  must have been chaos!

The squirrel carving at the base of the bannister

The squirrel carving at the base of the bannister

Mavor refers to an October 1814 porch-warming party to celebrate every installation of the carving-rich porch as this was the last major piece of the work that they envisaged.  In August 1816 Lady Maria Josepha Stanley wrote in a letter that “[t]he entrance to the cottage, a Gothic porch, the inner entrance, staircase and kitchen are just fitted up with old carvings of wood.”  In the same year 1816 Captain Henry Hanmer and his wife Sarah described that as well as the staircase and banisters indoors and the carvings around the door outside, the windows had also been done by this time.  That the ladies continued to collect after this date is suggested by references in Eleanor’s journal where she reports on pieces of carving being presented for consideration by various tradesmen in the region.

Both internal and external woodwork was varnished, and the exterior woodwork seems to have been given particularly thick layers of black paint both for decorative reasons and, presumably, to protect it from the Welsh weather.

Plas Newydd exterior today

Plas Newydd exterior today

More chaos must have ensued when General Yorke moved in, built a new wing and remodelled some of the original cottage, including replacing the kitchen with a drawing room called the Oak Room, and adding more carving as well as 17th century leather wall hangings.  In so far as the indoor carvings are concerned, although it is clear that the ladies installed most of the carvings, sometimes it is impossible to know for sure where the installations of the ladies ends and those of the General begins, except for the obvious case of the Oak Room.  The General had a major impact on the exterior, adding the decorative themes to the exterior walls and many of the motifs at the west end of the building.

What motivated the collection of woodwork chosen for Plas Newydd?

Gothic style lancet-shaped windows at Plas Newydd

Gothic style lancet-shaped windows at Plas Newydd

When tourist Anna Lister met Lady Eleanor at Plas Newydd in Tuesday 23 July in 1822 Eleanor told her that “it had been their humble endeavour to make their place as old as they could,” a clear statement of intent.  The ladies seem to have been attracted at first as much by the gothic as by the Jacobean, with their adoption of gothic features like lancet windows and lancet-shaped book cases and their exterior wood porch and canopies.  It was later that they began their collection of elaborately carved wood.  The tastes of the ladies were informed both by their education and by ongoing voracious reading, but there is no reason to believe that there interests were in any way confined by a preference for any one period.  The ladies were also collecting stained glass and beautiful objects, and do not seem to have been unduly influenced by the age of an architectural or artistic style, focusing instead on colour, texture and perhaps subject matter.

Bear moulding at Plas Mawr, Conwy

Bear moulding at Plas Mawr, Conwy

The ladies may have been influenced by their travels.  They had certainly encountered the Elizabethan-Jacobean style in Conwy at the 16th century Plas Mawr, then in a very poor state, when they visited on their travels before settling at Llangollen.  Plas Mawr was described by Sarah in her travel diary in 1778 (copied on the Curious Travellers website), including her comment that  “The Whole House is built & Floord (sic) with Oak.”  A carved bear at Plas Newydd closely resembles one at Plas Mawr, and there are other similarities due to the fashion for popular themes.  The ladies also saw St Deiniol’s Cathedral in Bangor, where Sarah was impressed by the “Roses &c. of Carved Wood.”  They visited Chirk Castle, the Grade-1 listed Halston Hall, built in around 1690, and Wynnstay Hall in Ruabon, part of which was built in the 16th century, although it is not clear what sort of decorative paradigms were in place at the time of the visits.

Bear carving at Plas Newydd

Bear carving at Plas Newydd

 

Brynkinalt rear aspect

Brynkinalt from the rear, showing some of the lancet windows installed in around 1808

A house with which the ladies were very familiar with was their friend Lady Dungannon’s Brynkinalt, completed in 1612.  This underwent seriously remodelling in 1808, and it seems as though this was both inside and out, with most of the earlier decorative scheme replaced by the more fashionable neoclassical, but the ladies may have seen it before the remodelling was started, and they may have been impressed by the Gothic features that were added during the remodel.  At least one small pane of stained glass at Plas Newydd  seems to have come from Brynkinalt, as an almost identical light remains in situ at the house.

Wyvern stained glass Plas Newydd

A wyvern in a stained glass patchwork at Plas Newydd, mirroring one at Brynkinalt, from where it may have been sourced

Detail of St Collen’s Church roof over the nave, Llangollen

One example that was (and remains) very close at hand, and which crosses the boundaries between the medieval period and the English and Welsh Renaissance by having much in common with both periods, is the roof of St Collen’s Church in Llangollen.  This contains a rich and fascinating mixture of religious and pagan motifs, much like the subject matter shown on Romanesque capitals and medieval misericords.  Although much of the church underwent serious modification in the Victorian period, the ladies would probably have visited it before the alterations, and would certainly have seen the roof.

Nothing really leaps out to explain why, in 1814 when Eleanor was 75 years old and Sarah 59, and 34 years after they had moved in to Plas Newydd, they were suddenly “seized” with a “mania” for collecting carved oak in the Elizabethan-Jacobean style, much of it featuring a wide variety of grotesques and fantastic creatures.  I thought that it might have something to do with purchasing the house, which they formerly rented, but that did not happen until 1819, five years after the peak of their collection “mania.”  Perhaps it was something as simple as a single first purchase that grew into a desire to source more of the same that grew into a passion for collecting.

 

Themes in the Plas Newydd carvings

All sculptural elements in the medieval period acted as symbols and emblems that could be read and understood, and by the later 16th century ornamental country house carvings and plasterwork usually formed a connected series of ideas and messages that needed to be decoded.  Although the message and themes might be relatively obvious, quite often the decoding was often deliberately enigmatic, requiring a good education, creativity and a willingness to bend the intellect towards deciphering hidden meanings.  In this sense they could be like visual riddles and acrostics. Once a collection was split up and sold off in parts, the intended message of the combined visual clues would have been lost.  The lack of context, meaning  that there is no provenance, no narrative context to explain meaning, and a complete absence of chronological integrity means that the Plas Newydd carvings cannot be understood as a coherent assemblage of meaning.  However, although the broader subtleties and grander narratives may be lost, some of the general themes can be identified.  David Bostwick picks out a list of specific items represented in the carvings.  This includes a mixture of secular and religious themes, including:

  • Human faces
  • Armorial shields
  • Birds
  • Animals
  • Flowers and other plants
  • Dragons, wyverns, amphisbaena and other mythological creatures
  • Male atlantes and female caryatids (human figures supporting architectural components)
  • Green Men
  • Symmetrical patterns
  • Ecclesiastical themes

David Bostwick observes that there are comparatively few geometric patterns, very popular in the period, with only 4  linenfold panels, although these should have been quite widely available at the time that the ladies began collecting. At Plas Newydd the 44 dragons identified by Bostwick are clear indicators that the grotesque was a major feature of the wood carving at Plas Newydd, but there are an incredible variety of other characters, including 103 atlantes and caryatids (figures supporting architectural elements). Ecclesiastical themes are mainly confined to the porch doorway, but there are others in the building, and the doorway at the west end shows religious themes.  Bostwick suggests that some of the Biblical scenes represented at Plas Newydd were Flemish imports.  This would not be at all unexpected, as a lot of art work and furniture was being imported from the Netherlands and the Lowe Countries at this time.

This suggests that the ladies made choices both in terms of the themes selected, rather than collecting whatever was available, and in the placement of their collection.

 

The quality of the carvings

Plas Newydd door with poor quality carvings

Plas Newydd door with inferior quality carvings

The quality of the carving is very variable.  In this section of the door into the spare bedroom, two botanical arrangements flank the startled looking woman in the centre.  The two botanical arrangements should in theory be identical, but the clumsiness of the execution has lead to flattened curves in the example on the left, and a failure to create a mirrored pattern. It looks like a practice exercise rather than something that would be sold to a happy customer.  Beneath the lady is a more accomplished, although still not perfect, attempt at mirroring on two sides of a central motif.

Most of the carvings come from items of furniture, and are very variable in quality, but some show great skill.  A few examples show quite complex scenes, and demonstrate the versatility of wood as a medium for expression.

As much as anything else, this great variability of skill and quality of craftsmanship demonstrates the wide variety of sources from which the carvings must have been sourced.

 

Sources for the Plas Newydd carvings

Plas NewyddThe 2001 survey by David Bostwick states that the Plas Newydd carvings were clearly sourced from multiple locations, although he detected the work of a single workshop amongst some of the pieces, suggesting that these at least came from the same place, whether that was a single building or a geographical area.  None of the sources for their carvings were recorded by the ladies or Richard Yorke themselves in the surviving documentation.  This may be because they saw no value in recording where where any of it was sourced from, seeing it as purely decorative rather than historical, but it may equally be that a separate record was maintained by each owner and that these have now been lost along with a lot of other paperwork.  Provenance is therefore a general problem with the Plas Newydd carvings, and it does not seem as though this is going to be resolved in the near future.

All of the carvings, whether installed by the ladies or General Yorke represent salvage – materials that were carved for somewhere else and have been brought here to be incorporated into an entirely new, patchwork-type arrangement.  Some of the carvings chosen for the exterior have more religious themes than in the interior, suggesting an ecclesiastical origin, whereas those in the interior look as though they were more likely to have been in secular contexts.

Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby

In some cases Eleanor’s journal provides the name of the people who supplied or offered pieces but not where the pieces themselves came from.  For example on 16th February 1819 Eleanor records that the vicar of Ruthin the Reverend Richard Newcombe sent them the gift of a “a beautiful Lion couchant carved in oak – some centuries old.”  Sir Foster Cunliffe of Acton Park (near Wrexham) provided an “old carved oak head,” mentioned on 27th February 1819.  On 12th April 1819 she wrote that “The so long expected hamper sent by Miss Dorothy Wilmot Sitwell to Liverpool was brought this morning from Chester . . . it contained fine old oak carving the most ancient & curious of all we possess.”  In none of these cases is it mentioned which locations had supplied the offerings.

An exception is the identification in the journal on 4th April 1819 in which she says that a Captain and Mrs Hanmer had sent them “some fine carvings of Gibbons from the old stalls of the Knights of the Garter in St Georges Chappel [sic].”  The owner of the Early Tourists in Wales site contacted the Archivist and Chapter Librarian of St George’s Chapel in Windsor, who informed him that an altar rail in the chapel was paid for by a Mir Gibbons in 1681 but that no other work connected with the name is known to be there.  Eleanor may have thought that the work was that of Grinling Gibbons, the famous wood carver, but there is no evidence to support this.

Several of Eleanor’s journal entries indicate that local people were aware of their interest in carved wood and contacted them to offer any examples that might interest them. There are 24 references to carvings acquired in 1819 and 4 in the 1821 journal.  As mentioned above, these are the only two journals surviving after 1807, so the record is extremely incomplete, but they do demonstrate that local people were supplying them with odds and ends: Roberts the Glazier, John Davis the Shoemaker, Roberts the Shrewsbury Gardener, Thomas Davies the Glazier, J.Gill the upholsterer, Edward the Marble Mason, and Brace the Carrier, as well as “a poor woman from Glynn.”  The ladies were obviously able to use their tradesmen’s presence in many buildings in the area to source items of interest.  The implication is that they were purchased, although Eleanor only makes this explicit once when she says that they “purchased some fine old oak carving from a woman near Corwen.” One journal entry mentions that some of their stained glass came a dealer and perhaps some of the carvings that were not supplied by visitors or local tradesmen were sourced in the same way, although no purchases are listed in the accounts so diligently kept by Sarah Ponsonby.

Two of the third party comments about sources of carvings were made whilst the ladies were still alive, and the information may or may not have been imparted by one or other of the ladies.  In 1819, for example,  Philadelphia Cotton’s Tour Through North Wales mentioned that “a large piece from Speke hall Lancashire” had been taken there by Colonel Norris “plunderer of Stirling Castle after the battle of Flodden.”  In 1827 traveller Eliza Rand recorded that she had been told that the Duchess of St Albans had provided the ladies “with a great deal of the carving.”  Neither, however mention where this information originated from or whether it had been verified in any way.  It is said that Arthur Wellesley (later the Duke of Wellington) supplied the two lions that still help to hold up the porch.

In General John Yorke’s 1882 publication Plas Newydd as it was and as it is; with A Catalogue of its contents; and a few reminiscences of Lady Eleanor Butler and the Hon Sarah Ponsonby by one who received their welcome in his younger days, he says that “All statesmen and nobles paid tribute and homage at Plas Newydd, and none ventured a second visit without bringing a contribution of carved oak which was the regular passport,” a comment that is unverified by anything that the ladies themselves wrote in the surviving journals, accounts or letters, but which has been repeated by writers ever since.  An  oak pew installed in a recess in the Oak Room was said to have been used by the ladies in Llangollen Church until it was transferred to the house.

Other items that General Yorke identifies are a portal door which he says is composed of oak from both Llangollen and Llantysilio churches, the latter also said to have provided the doorway below the west gable.  Llantysilio church did undergo the addition of a new transept in 1718, but that was a century before the ladies started collecting.  The Victorian alterations did not begin until 1869.  It is difficult to see how, unless repairs were made that lead bits of furniture or panelling to be rejected, the ladies could have acquired carvings from the church.  It was, however, conveniently local.  The claims that some of the carvings came from St Collen’s in Llangollen do not seem too far-fetched given the splendid roof carvings in the church, and the fact that the church underwent many modifications in the 19th century.  The General also identifies a number of other sources, from as far afield as London, but these are unverified.

Wherever they came from, 17th century carvings had gone out of fashion in the 18th century and it was not until the second quarter of the 19th century that the revival of what John Betjemen referred to as the “Jacobethan” became popular.  This may mean that there was only a very limited market for the type of ornately decorated carving collected by the ladies, and that this was not outrageously expensive, meaning both that they could afford to purchase locally unwanted salvage, and that it made for an inexpensive gift from others.  Much carved woodwork with family arms and motifs would be retained by families even when they upgraded their decorative schemes, and this would be less likely to be circulated, which would account for why there is so little of this at Plas Newydd.

General Yorke

General Yorke bought Plas Newydd in 1876.  Although he had mentioned various sources for carvings collected by the ladies, interestingly and disappointingly there is nothing to indicate where General Yorke himself sourced his antique purchases.  Perhaps his papers were lost or were disposed of at the time of his death.  By the time he bought the house in 1876 the trade in architectural salvage was in full swing, with the area around Oxford Street and Wardour Street in London becoming the English locus for dealing in architectural imports that could be broken down into cargo-sized components.  Italy and Germany provided some supplies, but London’s imports were mainly from France and the Low Countries, and mainly from ecclesiastical buildings.  John Harris’s work on the subject provides an eye-opening insight into the sheer scale of the trade, which soon moved beyond exporting to Britain and began to export to the United States.

General Yorke’s Oak Room in 1905. Source: People’s Collection Wales

When he arrived at Plas Newydd with many more financial resources available to him than the two ladies could have realistically dreamed of, he may have looked to a very wide network of dealers for his acquisitions.  It would certainly not be difficult for General Yorke to have made arrangements with both London and more local centres to acquire sufficient carvings, painted leather and plaster to furnish not only the remaining gaps in the cottage but also in his ambitious new wing.  His main innovation at the original cottage was the Oak Room, with its richly carved oak features and its painted and leather wall hangings, which he introduced elsewhere in the cottage as well.  Built in what was the kitchen when the ladies were alive, the oak room became both a drawing room and another display area for his collections.  An article dated to 1890 in The Builder, vol.59, suggested that in the Oak Room an elaborate chairs, which it refers to as The Confessional Throne, came from a Spanish monastery.  The article states that the second chair, almost as elaborate, was made out of an oak tree from Sulgrave in Northamptonshire.  The reference to Sulgrave in particular is very specific, but again there is nothing in the article to suggest how the its author obtained this information and whether there is any substance to it.

There remains one of many puzzles.  A reference on the Coflein website states unambiguously that part of the oak roof of St Derfel’s Church in Llandderfel was brought to Plas Newydd after a fire.  The Coflein account is quite comprehensive, fairly well cited, and seems convincing: “The oak roof was damaged by fire in 1758. A small portion of it was made into a chair, presently situated in the sanctuary, but most of it was removed to Plas Newydd, Llangollen.”  But 1758 was 22 years before the ladies arrived, so either the date is wrong, because there is no reason why the owners of the cottage would have wanted bits of a wooden roof before the arrival of the ladies, or the roof was stored elsewhere before being moved to Plas Newydd two decades later, which seems very improbable.  Alternatively, the reference to Plas Newydd was presumably incorrect.  Thoughts anyone?

Future research

Oriental carving

Oriental carving

The carvings are thoroughly enjoyable in their own right, but they also present a number of puzzles, and there is considerable potential for future research.

Although at first glance it is difficult to see that some of the items are related, some of the pieces dotted around the house are clearly parts of the same piece of furniture, which may help to consolidate carvings into batches to reduce the sense of it being an unrelated mixture of pieces.  This may help to approach the as-yet unanswered questions about which workshops and which individuals were responsible for the carvings.  David Bostwick has suggested that idiosyncrasies associated with certain workshops are visible in the style and the motifs selected.  Certain styles of distinctive motif, such as types of dragon, wyvern, amphisbaena and other dragon-like creatures, caryatids and atlantes (male caryatids), and natural animal life may belong to vernacular traditions of certain regions, which may help in this task.  Investigations of the records of local church and large nearby houses such as Brynkinalt, particularly those known to have undergone renovation or restyling in the 18th century may shed some light on some sources of more skilled pieces of carving.

The house is generally seen as a reflection of the work of Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby, but there are questions to ask around this.  General Yorke, for example, was responsible for converting the cottage kitchen into the Oak Room, and added various pieces of carved woodwork elsewhere inside and outside the house.  It is also possible that subsequent owners also had made repairs and minor changes.  The way in which Plas Newydd evolved under different owners is not well understood and it would be useful to improve this knowledge of the chronology of the house and all of its decorative arts.

 

Final comments

There are more questions than there are answers about the collection of wood panelling, pieces of furniture and panels made of furniture, as well as some of the more splendid sculptural items at Plas Newydd.

The probability is that the majority of the carvings at Plas Newydd were originally components of furniture and wainscotting, mainly from residential buildings and some ecclesiastical buildings that were either re-envisioned, stripping out old woodwork to be replaced by new ideas of interior decoration, or demolished. Most of it dates to the 17th century, but there are examples from earlier periods as well as 19th century pieces.  Wealthy country homes and churches were both contenders for providing the carvings.  Churches were often simply remodelled rather than demolished, stripped out but saved, but some of the grand country houses of the Tudor-Stuart periods required expensive maintenance and often suffered terminal neglect as owners found themselves unable to keep up with costs.  The number of late Elizabethan and Jacobean buildings that survive are few and far between, but furnishings and decorative features have experienced a better survival rate simply by virtue of their portability.  An extreme example is Emral Hall in West Cheshire, near Worthenbury, where the ballroom, complete with its marvellous ceiling, was removed just before demolition in the mid-1930s and was reinstalled in Portmeirion’s Town Hall.

Some individual pieces are quite extraordinary, harking back to ideas derived from the Italian Grotteschi and the use of grotesque motifs in the western European Romanesque and the British Gothic.  Some later pieces may have been commissioned in the 19th century in order to piece the patchwork together.  However there is almost no specific provenance for any of it, and there is no indication why, in or just before 1814, Lady Eleanor and Miss Ponsonby suddenly began to collect it.   In spite of these puzzles, it remains a splendid collection of diverse pieces featuring figurative and natural themes, fantastical animals, geometrical patterns, and the occasional line of text.  Although it makes a stunning collective impression, it is also rewards taking your time to introduce yourself to as many of the individual pieces as you have time to view.  Together with all the other decorative arts in the house, the impact is quite astonishing and very memorable.

 

 

With thanks

Early Tourists in Wales Plas Newydd

Early Tourists in Wales – The Plas Newydd Carved Wood page

With sincere thanks to Michael Freeman’s for his Plas Newydd pages on the Early Tourists in Wales website, where all the principal sources for information on Plas Newydd carvings have been collated and made accessible online, some of them not otherwise available either in published or digitized form.  I was very kindly given carte blanche to use that information in my own research into the history of Plas Newydd.  A very useful summary of DavidBostwick’s findings can be found on the Early Tourists in Wales website on the Plas Newydd Wood Carving page, which is particularly useful as Bostwick’s paper is not currently available online (although it is available to peruse as a hard copy at Plas Newydd).

 

 

 

Sources

See part 1 for a general introduction to Plas Newydd, including visiting details and a general bibliography.  The sources mentioned below are specific to this post.

Online catalogues, National Library of Wales archives and Plas Newydd on-site information

There are records at the National Library of Wales in Aberystwyth that have not yet been digitized and are therefore not available online. I have not had the chance to go to Aberystwyth in person, so these have not been consulted for this post.  Much of it has been expertly summarized on the Early Tourists in Wales website.

The 1792 catalogue of the titles in the Plas Newydd library belonging to Lady Eleanor and Miss Ponsonby includes volumes in English, French and Italian.  They also, but possibly at a later date as they are not recorded in the catalogue, owned titles in Spanish.  This is available on the National Library of Wales website at https://viewer.library.wales/6043853#?xywh=-2808%2C-244%2C9066%2C4877

The 1832 auction catalogue that sold off the portable contents of Plas Newydd following the death of Sarah Ponsonby, two years after Eleanor Butler’s own death, has been very usefully précised on the Early Tourists in Wales website at https://sublimewales.wordpress.com/attractions/mansions-and-grounds/ladies-of-llangollen/ownership/auction-catalogues-1832/

In addition, Plas Newydd has information in loose-leaf folders that can be leafed through on a visit.  As well as samples from Lady Eleanor’s journals, these include David Bostwick’s paper about the carvings.

 

Books, booklets and papers

d’Alembert, Jean Le Rond 1751. Melanges de litterature, d’histoire, et de philosophie.
https://ia802207.us.archive.org/1/items/MelangesDArcheologieDHistoireEt2/Melanges_d_archeologie_d_histoire_et_2.pdf

Andrews, John 1989. British Antique Furniture. Price Guide and Reasons for Values. Antique Collectors’ Club

Aymonino A, and M. Guerci 2016.  The Architectural Transformation of Northumberland House under the 7th Duke of Somerset and the1st Duke and Duchess of Northumberland, 1748–86. The Antiquaries Journal, p.315–361

Bebb, Richard 2007 .  Welsh Furniture 1240-1950. Volume 1. Saer Books

Bebb, Richard 2007.  Welsh Furniture 1240-1950. Volume 2. Saer Books

Brewer, J.J. 1825. The Beauties of Ireland. Being original delineations, topographical, historical, and biographical, of each county. Sherwood, Jones and Co.
https://archive.org/details/b29350505_0001/page/416/mode/2up?q=kilkenny

Ching, Francis D.K. 1995. A Visual Dictionary of Architecture. John Wiley and Sons

Chinnery, Victor 1979, 2016 (Revised Edition). Oak Furniture. The British Tradition. Antique Collectors’ Club.

Edwards, Ralph 1964. The Shorter Dictionary of English Furniture. Country Life

Fiske, John and Lisa Freeman 2005.  Living with Early Oak. The Belmont Press

Fleming, John and Hugh Honour 1989 (2nd edition). Penguin Dictionary of Decorative Arts. Viking.

Harris, John. 2007. Moving Rooms. The Trade in Architectural Salvages. Yale University Press

Hearn, Karen (ed.) 1995. Dynasties: painting in Tudor and Jacobean England, 1530-1630. Introduction, p.9-10. Rizzoli International Publications

Hopkins, Owen 2012. Reading Architecture, A Visual Lexicon. Laurence King Publishing

Hubbard, Edward and Pevsner, N. 1986. The Buildings of Wales. Clwyd (Denbighshire and Flintshire).  Penguin Books

Lupu, Mircea-Ioan 2013. Grotesque as Aesthetic Identity: From Medieval Illumination to Contemporary Art. EIRP Proceedings, Volume 8, Number 1, 2013, pp. 263-278(16)
https://www.academia.edu/46975596/Grotesque_as_Aesthetic_Identity_From_Medieval_Illumination_to_Contemporary_Art

Mavor, Elizabeth , 2011 (previously published 1971, 1979). The Ladies of Llangollen. A Study in Romantic Friendship. Moonrise Press. (Mavor does not always cite her sources for particular comments cited, attributed to the ladies and others, and often widely quoted by other authors)

Mavor, Elizabeth 1984.  Life with the Ladies of Llangollen. Viking (hardback).  N.B. This was published, word for word and page for page, image for image, in Penguin in 1986 in paperback as A Year with the Ladies of Llangollen.  Do not make my mistake of buying the same book twice just because the titles are different!
The format is rather strange, in that the books list first by month and then by year, so all the journal entries for January in any given year are listed in the first chapter, and then February and so on.  I suppose it gives a sense of how each month in a year passed, but it gives no sense of the cumulative passing of time over the lives of the ladies. 

Mowl, Timothy 1993.  Elizabethan and Jacobean Style. Phaidon Press.

Ogle, George 1737.  Antiquities explained. Being a collection of figured gems illustrated by similar descriptions taken from the classics.
https://archive.org/details/bim_eighteenth-century_antiquities-explained-b_ogle-george_1737/mode/2up

Osborne, Harold (ed.) 1970.  The Oxford Companion to Art. Clarendon Press

Osborne, Harold (ed.) 1975.  The Oxford Companion to the Decorative Arts. Clarendon Press

Squire, Michael 2012. “Fantasies so varied and bizarre”: The Domus Aurea, the Renaissance, and the “grotesque”’, in (eds.) M. Dinter and E. Buckley, The Blackwell Companion to the Age of Nero Wiley-Blackwell, p.444–464

Sinclaire, Catherine 1838.  Hill and Valley, or Hours in England and Wales, 1833 (a second edition was released in 1839).

Singleton, Esther 1907. Dutch and Flemish Furniture. The McClure Company
https://www.gutenberg.org/files/54552/54552-h/54552-h.htm

Turner, Rick 2008 (revised edition, first published 1997).  Plas Mawr, Conwy. Cadw

Wells-Cole, Anthony 1997.  Art and Decoration in Elizabethan and Jacobean England.  Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art / Yale University Press

Veysey, A. Geoffrey and David Freeman 1988.  Plas Newydd and the Ladies of Llangollen. Glyndwr District Council.  (Based on the booklet by Veysey, County Archivist for Clwyd County Council, published in 1980.  Two sections were substantially updated by Freeman in 1988 – the Oak Room and the Ladies’ Bedchamber).

Wainwright, Clive 1989. The Romantic Interior – The British Collector at Home 1750–1850. Yale Center for British Art -Studies in British Art, Yale University Press

Wither, George 1635. A collection of emblemes, ancient and moderne. London
https://archive.org/details/collectionofembl00withe/page/n11/mode/2up

Zamperini, Alessandra. 2008. Ornament and the Grotesque. Fantastical Decoration from Antiquity to Art Nouveau’, Thames and Hudson, London and New York—

Websites

Based In Churton
Grotesques and Misericords. By Andie Byrnes, various dates.  Series of posts looking at mainly medieval Grotesques and misericords in the Chester-Wrexham area, plus one example from Tong in Shropshire.
https://basedinchurton.co.uk/category/grotesques-and-misericords/

Building
From the archives: The demolition of Northumberland House, 1874. By Tom Lowe, 3rd February 2023
https://www.building.co.uk/our-history-180-years-of-building/from-the-archives-the-demolition-of-northumberland-house-1874/5121589.article

Cadw
Plas Mawr
https://cadw.gov.wales/visit/places-to-visit/plas-mawr
Rug Chapel
https://cadw.gov.wales/visit/places-to-visit/rug-chapel

Coflein
St Derfel’s Church, Llandderfel
https://coflein.gov.uk/en/site/43870
Emral Hall, Worthenbury
https://coflein.gov.uk/en/site/35805/
Town Hall, Portmeirion
https://coflein.gov.uk/en/site/407060/

Curious Travellers
Anne Lister’s diary, tour of North Wales 11-27 July 1822
https://editions.curioustravellers.ac.uk/doc/0023?ref=pe0954#footnoteref53
Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby, Account of a Journey in Wales; Perform’d in May 1778 By Two Fugitive Ladies. Edited with an introduction by Elizabeth Edwards in Curious Travellers
https://editions.curioustravellers.ac.uk/pages/show.html?document=0004.xml

Early Tourists in Wales
Plas Newydd home page
https://sublimewales.wordpress.com/attractions/mansions-and-grounds/ladies-of-llangollen/
Plas Newydd – Carved Wood
https://sublimewales.wordpress.com/attractions/mansions-and-grounds/ladies-of-llangollen/plas-newydd-the-house/plas-newydd-carved-wood/
Plas Newydd – Illustrations
https://sublimewales.wordpress.com/attractions/mansions-and-grounds/ladies-of-llangollen/plas-newydd-the-house/plas-newydd-illustrations/

English Heritage
Stokesay Castle
https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/stokesay-castle/things-to-do/

Historic England
Interior view of the Solar at Stokesay Castle, showing a fireplace with carved wooden panelling above the mantle and a table in the foreground with drawings and plans of the castle
https://historicengland.org.uk/images-books/photos/item/UXC01/01/01/0065/32

Kilkenny Castle
http://www.kilkennycastle.ie
Explore the Castle
https://www.kilkennycastle.ie/about/explore-the-castle-new/
Audio Guide
https://www.kilkennycastle.ie/audio-guide/
Visitor’s Guide leaflet
https://www.kilkennycastle.ie/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Visitors-Leaflet-English_compressed.pdf

The National Archives
The Ladies of Llangollen. By Hanna Griffiths.  Tuesday 8th February 2022
https://blog.nationalarchives.gov.uk/the-ladies-of-llangollen/

The National Library of Wales
Plasnewydd Library Catalogue 1792
https://viewer.library.wales/6043853#?xywh=-2355%2C-1%2C8159%2C4390&cv=

The Open University – UK Reading Experience Database
Lady Eleanor Butler
https://www.open.ac.uk/Arts/reading/UK/browse_reader_readings.php?s=Butler&f=Lady+Eleanor

Ornapedia Decorative Arts Glossary
https://www.ornapedia.org/glossary

The Public Domain Review
Flemish Mask Designs in the Grotesque Style (1555)
https://publicdomainreview.org/collection/flemish-mask-designs-in-the-grotesque-style-1555/

smarthistory
The rediscovery and impact of the Domus Aurea, in Smarthistory, by Jessica Mingoia, May 14, 2023
https://smarthistory.org/rediscovery-domus-aurea-renaissance-grotesque/.

Plas Newydd after 1814. Source: People’s Collection Wales

 

The excellent Hooton Park Hangars Aircraft Museum on the Wirral

Comper Swift G-ACGL. The Comper Aircraft Company was based at Hooton Park in the inter-war years

With many thanks to the Heritage Open Days this year, I stumbled across this fabulous gem of an aircraft museum on the Wirral at Hooton.  Hooton Park Hangars, owned and run by Hooton Park Trust, is sited on a former aerodrome, where the First World War Grade 2* aircraft hangars have been restored and two interlinked hangars now house a museum of aircraft and aircraft engines as well as other means of transport, including a military helicopter, a Chester Corporation tram, bicycles, and a number of cars, as well as model aircraft and memorabilia.  There are steps leading up to the cockpits of some aircraft and in one case a ladder allows visitors to enter one of the cockpits, which gives a sense of the incredibly cramped conditions and the range of dials, levers and pedals that help to navigate the plane.  Visiting information is at the end of this post.  Much of the information on this post has been taken from information boards around the hangars, from volunteers who kindly chatted to me about the site, and the Hooton Park Hangars website’s history pages as well as from the sources listed at the end.

Example of some of the signage available (this for the Comper Swift shown above)

 

The 1788 Hooton Hall.

The 1788 Hooton Hall. Source: Lost Heritage

Hooton Hall was an estate owned by the Stanley family.  It was built in 1788 to replace the existing house built at the end of the 15th century by the 5th Baronet Sir William Stanley, who employed architect Samuel Wyatt for the task.  Seventy years later it had to be sold to pay off gambling debts and was bought by banker Richard Christopher Naylor who made various changes and added a racecourse.  He moved away in 1875 when the Manchester Ship Canal was routed through the parkland, but retained ownership of the house and land.  At the start of the First World War both the house and land were requisitioned by the Army, which converted the house to the hospital and built barracks on the racecourse.  The house was probably in a fairly abysmal state when it was knocked down in 1932, initially remaining in the ownership of the military before it eventually came into the hands of Hooton Park Trust.

Spitfire PR.XIX PM651

Propeller of VS390 Spitfire PR.XIX PM651, usually stationed at RAF Woodvale near Formby on Merseyside and restored by the RAF Museum at Cosford. It came to Hooton Park in April 2026.

As well as the hospital and barracks, several hangars were built on the Hooton Park site, now Grade 2* listed, originally as a plant for assembling American-built aircraft, but instead became a training centre for pilots destined for the Western Front.  The hangar in which the museum is located is single storey, 16 bays in length, with iron casement windows separated by brick uprights and with corner pylons of brick (one of which was extended upwards to become a fire watch observation post).  An interior arched brick arcade divides the hangar into two halves.  The corrugated roofs of each half were supported by Belfast roof trusses of latticed wood which collapsed over a decade ago, but have since been replaced by new Belfast trusses.  the hangars were built by Holland, Henna and Cubitt Ltd to a design by the Royal Engineers, whilst the roof trusses were built by D. Anderson and Co., Belfast. The training facility was closed in 1919 when the training facility was moved to RAF Shotwick.

In the inter-war years the aerodrome was bought by a Mr G.H. Dawson who rented space to the Liverpool and District Aero Club, which became one of the most successful in the country.  At the same time, the aerodrome also became the home for two air manufacturing companies, the Comper Aircraft Co. and Popjay Air Motors. In 1927 the aerodrome was purchased to become Liverpool’s main airport, in spite of being on the Wirral before moving to Speke on the other side of the Mersey in 1930, where it remains.

Hooton Park aircraft Hangar

Hooton Park aircraft Hangar on a chilly wet day, showing the brick elements and the 16-bay structure

At the outbreak of the Second World War Hooton Park became the base for 610 ‘County of Chester’ Squadron and in the 1940s it returned to its role assembling aircraft from the U.S. At the same time the Civilian Repair Organization was employed to inspect and overhaul existing aircraft.  The aerodrome was also used during the war as an important role in aerial reconnaissance with the goal of locating submarines.  In June 1946, No 610 Squadron reformed at Hooton and in 1949, 663 Squadron formed at the site.  Hooton Park finally closed as an aerodrome in 1957.  Subsequently Shell created a base at Hooton Park to carry out experimental work on car fuels.  In 1962, Vauxhall Motors purchased the site and based their motor works at Hooton Park.

Hooton Park Hangars roof collapse HootPkTrust

Hooton Park Hangars after the roof collapse, showing the wooden lattice trusses made in Belfast. Source: Hooton Park Trust

The Hooton Park Trust was founded in 2000 to restore the hangars, originally built during the Second World War where they served the RAF Hooton airfield.  This was not a lightweight project. The hangar roofs had collapsed in 2011 and just clearing the rubble cost £60,000, partly because of the asbestos used in the roofing material, which required special disposal measures.  The new hangar roofs were built with modern, durable materials using the same methods as the originals.  Do take the time to look upwards – the trusses are as attractive as they are impressive as you can see in the above photograph.  The aircraft and other vehicles are a fine mix of different types, a mixture of civil and military, all with some connection to the aerodrome or the use of the hangars after the aerodrome had closed.

Many of the aircraft in the hangars were supplied by the Hooton Park Trust, to which aircraft have also been loaned.  The Trust makes space in the museum available to the The Aeroplane Collection (TAC), first founded in 1962 so that they can both display and work on aircraft in the hangar.  On a visit you are very like to see both Hooton Park Trust volunteers and TAC members working on the aircraft in the museum. In 2024 several aircraft and other items were transferred to the museum following the closure of a display hall in the Manchester Museum of Science.

 

G-AFIU Parker CA-4 Parasol

G-AFIU Parker CA-4 Parasol

 

This is very much a living museum, with work constantly being carried out on the aircraft stored in the hangars.  As well as the volunteers who were on hand to answer questions, there were plenty of engineers in overalls with their heads bent over engines, engaging in restoration work.

G-EBZM Avro 594 Avian 111A

G-EBZM Avro 594 Avian 111A

Replica of BAPC.6 Avro Triplane

Replica of BAPC.6 Avro Triplane

Full scale replica of a Spitfire MK IX

Full scale replica of a Spitfire MK IX

Gloster Meteor painted to represent aircraft WH127 of 610 Squadron based at Hooton

Another example of signage in the museum, this providing information about the Meteor shown above

 

Cockpit of a Fairey Gannet T.2. Steps on the other side allow you to climb up and get a good look into the cockpit.

Inside the Faery gannet T.2 cockpit

Sikorsky R-4B Hoverfly

Sikorsky R-4B Hoverfly

G-ADAH DH.98A Dragon Rapide “Pioneer”

xxx

G-EBZM Avro 594 Avian 111A

G-EBZM Avro 594 Avian 111A

Chipmunk 22

G-AOUO DHC.1 Chipmunk 22

As well as aircraft and engines there are also road vehicles, including a tram, bicycles and Vauxhall cars, all of which were contemporary with some of the aircraft in the hangars or were produced after the aerodrome had gone out of use.  The Shell Eco Car was a particularly surprising vehicle!

 

Chester No.4 tram

Visiting

The best source of visiting information is the Hooton Park Hangars website.  Opening days are usually to Saturdays and the last Sunday of the month, and different activities are available on the Sundays, so do check the website to see what is going on. There are events throughout the summer, and these are worth keeping an eye out for.  You can also find their social media presences on the website. There are toilets and a café on the site, although note that at the time of writing (September 2026) the café is only available on Sundays.  It is very easy to find by car, although parking is limited, and on a Sunday there is a vintage bus to take you from Hooton Station.  It is all on the flat, so very accessible for those with unwilling legs, and there is disabled parking. The museum closes for the season on 31st October, so you will need to get your skates on if you want to go this year.

Sources:

Much of the information on this post has been taken from information boards around the hangars, from the volunteers who kindly chatted to me about the site, and the Hooton Park Hangars website’s history pages as well as from the sources listed below.

Historic England
Northern General Service Hangar (Building 16) , Hooton Park Aerodrome
https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1075377?section=official-list-entry

Lost Heritage
Hooton Hall
https://www.lostheritage.org.uk/houses/lh_cheshire_hootonhall.html

Vintage Aviation News
Discovering Hooton Park Hangars: Northwest England’s Living Aviation Heritage Museum. By Ian Doyle
https://vintageaviationnews.com/aviation-museum-news/discovering-hooton-park-hangars-northwest-englands-living-aviation-heritage-museum.html

 

 

Georgia O’Keefe, Small Wonders and three other temporary exhibitions at the Williamson Art Gallery and Museum, Birkenhead

I’ll start with a time alert.  Very sorry for the ridiculously short notice, but if you want to see the Georgia O’Keefe exhibition, a touring exhibition from the Hayward Gallery in London’s South Bank complex you will need to take a trip to Birkenhead before the exhibition closes next Saturday, the 25th July.  Make haste!  The O’Keefe exhibition is part of the Small Wonders. Reimagining British Art exhibition, also curated by the Hayward Gallery, and also on until Saturday 25th.  The three in-house exhibitions are The Garden As A Muse also on until the 25th, Beyond the Brotherhood: The Legacies of the Pre-Raphaelites, on until 7th November, and Echoes of the Floating World on until 6th February 2027.  All the exhibitions are free of charge and all are very well worth visiting.

If a Georgia O’Keefe exhibition comes to a local gallery it is a matter for celebration, and the Memories of Drawing exhibition offers 21 small pieces drawn by O’Keefe between 1915 and 1963 and prepared for publication with her agent and friend Doris Bry.  Photogravures are images created by a sophisticated and highly accurate printing process.  They are a complete delight, like fabulous little sound-bites, and it is wonderful to see them all together in one room.  O’Keefe is best known for large, delicately rendered paintings and drawings of flowers, seashells, animal skulls and desert landscapes, which are so inherently vital and dramatic that they often appear to be in the process of metamorphosing into something much less easy to define.  The photogravures display the concentrated essence of O’Keefe’s work, containing all the gorgeous draughtsmanship, the organic, the semi-abstract and sometimes wholly abstract, and each one is all the more fascinating for being so small and minimalist.  All but two are in graded shades and textures of black and grey, and all share the sense that at any second they might shape-shift in tiny, imperceptible ways.

Georgia O'Keefe's Drawing No.9 (1915)

Georgia O’Keefe’s Drawing No.9 (1915)

O’Keefe’s work is always dynamic and frequently seems to be alive; the photogravures capture that beautifully.  The depth of O’Keefe’s dedication to the development of her artwork is demonstrated by “Blue Lines” (1916) of which she commented “It was in the fall of 1915 that I decided not to use any colour until I couldn’t get along without it and I believe it was June before I needed blue.”   Her humour comes across vividly in “Drawing No.9” (1915 – shown right) about which she said “Well, I had the headache, why not do something with it?”  From the barely-present representation of a seashell, “Drawing No.40” (1934) to the spiky, stark lines of a New York skyline “The City – New York Rooftops” (1930s), she is able, with real elegance and understated drama, to convey the complexity of both natural and unnatural worlds.  My photos do absolutely no justice to the detail and texture in each image.  You just need to see them for yourself.  The exhibition is a treat – don’t miss it!

 

 

As if Georgia O’Keefe on her own was not enough, there is another visiting exhibition and three temporary mini-exhibitions drawn from the Williamson’s own collections.

The Echoes of the Floating World exhibition, in one room focused on Ukiyo-e was a particularly lovely surprise.  As the Williamson website says, “[t]heir motifs of flat perspectives, high vantage points, and bold colour distinctions, were a radical influence across European art” and the premise of the exhibition is to show the 19th century woodblock works juxtaposed against artworks that were influenced by the Japanese art.  It was interesting to see the more modern artworks, with the surprising range of ways in which composition, colour and subject-matter were adopted and transformed.

Of course the real stars were the Japanese works, with some very contrasting pieces chosen for the display.  From almost monochrome examples, to highly coloured pieces, the exhibition managed, in a confined space, to give a very good sense of range of the style and expression produced by the woodblock artists.  The oldest example of Ukiyo-e in the Williamson’s collections is a lovely depiction of a man and woman coloured only in mid-blue and black, dating to before the wider palette of colours became available.  Images in full colour included rich and vibrant pigments, which complemented scenes that were full of motion and narrative intensity, as well as those that captured intimate moments of everyday life in subtle and delicate shades.  A lot of people, right now in all this California-type weather, will relate to the splendid row of ladies with their parasols standing on a bridge over a river to help them cool down.

 

The Garden As a Muse exhibition “traces how artists across time have interpreted gardens not merely as physical spaces, but as symbols of creativity and solace. From delicate, nostalgic studies to immersive and grand paintings, these pieces reveal how gardens can function both as sanctuaries and laboratories of artistic experimentation.”  As a thoroughly committed gardener I very much enjoyed this insight into different perceptions of what gardens can or should be.  Sentiment was unsurprisingly present, but there was a thorough mix of styles and there were some very unexpected pieces too.   I was particularly amused to find myself staring at Tolstoy who seemed improbably relaxed, although very dour.  The two Arthur Lee textile designs, produced at their Birkenhead factory and mapped out with precision on graph paper were fascinating to see, ready to be converted into tapestry, embroidery and even printed fabrics.  Sian Martin’s fabric-based abstract representations of such contrasting horticultural arrangements as seed beds and vegetable patches were incredibly effective.  The entire ensemble of images was both witty and engaging, and nicely drew attention to the British fascination with garden places.

 

The Beyond the Brotherhood: The Legacies of the Pre-Raphaelites exhibition presents some of the original works produced by the Pre-Raphaelite brotherhood but also introduces some of their followers, who built on their legacy to create works of their own in the same broad style.  This included examples from the so-called Liverpool School of landscape painters as well as elaborate pieces by the sculptors of Birkenhead’s Della Robbia Pottery Company, some locally produced stained glass, and it was delightful to find some William de Morgan tiles on display.

 

The Small Wonders exhibition was the most difficult to describe, mainly because I found so little about it relatable, which is unusual for me.  It is a travelling exhibition curated by London’s Hayward Gallery, and brings together work by fifty artists, to provide a snapshot of British art over the last 45 years.  I have been visiting and enjoying modern and contemporary art for decades, but although there are always some pieces that leave me cold, I found this was more frustrating than usual.  Before I go on, I should say that I may be alone in my response to what is clearly a popular exhibtion.

One piece, which for me was engaging thought-provoking, was a video with a voice-over, but the rest were all static, framed artworks, although most of the artists, according to their biographical data, work in various forms of media including including 3-D installations and cinematic work.  Perhaps the artists are better understood in other media but for me most of the artworks failed to engage me either emotionally or intellectually.  I could see that there is technical skill and creativity, and found some of it visually attractive, but a lot of it was very derivative of previous styles and although the multicultural mix was a positive element, I found none of it deeply gripping.  Apart from Saskia Olde Wolber’s video artwork “Centrifuge,” which was compelling for both its narrative and its constantly evolving  organic semi-abstract imagery, there was nothing with sufficient depth for me to sink my teeth into, and I came away longing to have had a teachable moment, something from which I could have learned, or which had at the very least moved me to empathy, laughter, annoyance or simple admiration.  But of course, to each their own.  Having said all of that, I am sincerely grateful for being given the chance to see a London exhibition without having to travel to London to do it.

 

 

The Williamson is a splendid resource to have for the Wirral and so near to Chester.  I very much admire their policy of retaining part of the museum for their permanent collection and the other, larger part for temporary exhibitions.  It means that local people can always expect to come in and find something new to see, whilst those of us driving from elsewhere find that the trip is more worthwhile when there are new artworks to see from the Williamson’s own stores. You can find out more about the Williamson’s events on their web pages.  I signed up for their newsletter after my first visit and that is an excellent prompt not to miss anything.  You can sign up for it at the end of every page.

On my previous post about the Williamson’s permanent and temporary collections I mentioned the café.  It is comfortable and spacious, with excellent coffee and some good-looking lunches being produced in large numbers, and as you imbibe you can enjoy more art because the walls of the café are used as additional hanging space for art works, and these too had changed since our last visit.  And don’t forget to visit the model ships, which are stunning.  Who wouldn’t want to cross the Mersey on a ridiculously curvaceous Art Deco ferry like this one?  Bliss.

 

Because of that big yellow sun and the vast acres of blue sky, we opted for The Harp Inn at Ness, parking at Denhall Quay, both of which I posted about last week, and here too there was much loveliness to be enjoyed across the acres of green marshes reaching towards the Welsh foothills and Moel Fammau, with a fabulous breeze coming off the estuary.  We were both ravenous, so ordered one haddock and chips with garden peas and one cheese and ham ploughman’s (the latter, mine, was absolutely huge and truly heavenly).  It was a really super way to round off a superbly satisfying morning.

Chester Amphitheatre – the Grosvenor Museum exhibition and the University of Chester’s upcoming VR experience

After a successful expedition in to Chester, which included an excellent coffee break with 3-D artist Julian Baum (Take27), I went to see the Grosvenor Museum’s Chester Amphitheatre – An 8000 year story exhibition, running until 12th July, in which one of Julian’s reconstruction images is included.  Julian has also been working on the Our City, Our Story: Deva Victrix project under the auspices of the University of Chester, run by Dr Caroline Pudney (Senior Lecturer in Archaeology), which explores how Virtual Reality (VR) and the application of Artificial Intelligence (AI) can contribute to an interactive experience of the amphitheatre.  This project was showcased in Chester on Saturday 23rd May.  I mention Julian Baum’s work not merely to give him a shameless (although well-deserved) plug, but because the work he contributed to last year’s Gladiators of Britain, the current Chester Amphitheatre exhibition and the upcoming Our City, Our Story VR and AI project are examples of how the trend from static and video reconstruction towards more interactive experiences can complement traditional approaches to provide richer visitor experiences, discussed further below.

The "Chester Amphitheatre" exhibition

The “Chester Amphitheatre” exhibition

The Chester Amphitheatre exhibition is a stand-alone exhibition, complete in its own right, but for those who attended Gladiators of Britain (about which I posted, with a description of the amphitheatre on the blog here), the continuity of themes between the two exhibitions works very nicely, although as the name of the current exhibition indicates, this is not just about the Roman period.  This multi-period approach to the amphitheatre is the exhibition’s major strength, providing an excellent sense of how the same chunk of land has been used from the post-glacial period until the present day.  Apologies for the poor photographs.  I accidentally left my camera at home and they were taken with my elderly iPhone.  As anyone who follows the blog will know, I am rubbish with the thing!

The exhibition space, in Gallery 1 on the ground floor, is well thought out and very elegantly laid out, with a combination of interpretation boards on the walls, artefacts displayed in well-lit cabinets and clear labelling to identify individual objects.  It begins with details of the excavations, from which an understanding of the site was obtained, and then follows a chronological path, beginning with the Mesolithic (meaning Middle Stone Age, the period that starts in the post-glacial period).

The site was first explored in the early 1930s by Professor Robert Newstead, curator of the Grosvenor Museum at the time, and Dr J.P. Droop.  Although it had been assumed, on the basis of other legionary sites in England, that an amphitheatre had existed at Deva, its location was unknown, and it was not until a new road was laid out in 1929 that Roman remains were found and the amphitheatre was identified.  The road would have sliced across the top half of the amphitheatre, but following the discovery of Roman remains was thankfully re-routed to run around it instead of across it, allowing the site to be preserved and enabling further excavations to take place.  The most recent of those was the excavation project established by English Heritage and the former Chester City Council, lead by Tony Wilmott and Dan Garner between 2004 and 2006, published in 2018.  These excavations resulted in a re-evaluation of the Roman amphitheatre and its phases, and provided invaluable information about both its pre-Roman and post-Roman periods.

It is one of the interesting aspects of work into the later prehistory of West Cheshire, that wherever an archaeologist happens to poke a trowel, at both hillfort and lowland sites, earlier prehistoric material is likely to be found.  The type of material often found is epitomized by the finds at the amphitheatre.  The Mesolithic was characterized by very small stone tools called microliths, and a selection of these were found on the amphitheatre site, together with waste products from the manufacturing process, showing that the tools had been made on the spot.  Neolithic and/or Early Bronze Age tools, again made of stone, are also represented and these too are found all over the Cheshire area.

One of the most exciting discoveries of the excavation was the previously unsuspected presence an Iron Age settlement, made up of round houses and rectangular buildings, as well as portions of a cord-rig field system, very like medieval ridge-and-furrow.  Two photographs show details of one of the foundation features of one of the round-houses and a section of cord-rig as they were found during the excavation.  There is a particularly nice sherd of specialist pottery on display, known as VCP (Very Coarse Pottery), that was used for producing and transporting salt.  A highly corroded spear tip was also discovered, one of the few pieces of Iron Age metalwork to survive in the area due to the highly acidic soil.  Both are shown to the left.
xx

Photograph of the excavation showing a section of Iron Age field system

Photograph of the excavation showing a section of Iron Age field system

xx

Chester Amphitheatre exhibition

The Roman amphitheatre is inevitably the main focus of the exhibition, which is unsurprising given its scale and duration.  Now understood to consist of two main phases, having been expanded in its second phase, it was in use from c.AD 74/75.  It is estimated that the second phase of the amphitheatre could have accommodated up to between 7500-8000 spectators and it is to this phase that two of the larger objects in the exhibition belong: the tethering stone to which wild animals would have been tied, and a coping stone (rounded stone topping for a wall) that contains the inscription “SERANO LOCUS,” roughly meaning “Serano’s Place,” possibly an attempt to lay claim to a particular seat that sat behind the low wall.  The many other Roman artefacts on display include ornaments, gaming pieces, pottery (samian ware, grey ware, orange ware etc) and other items made of metals and glass.

 

SERANO

Capstone engraved SERANO LOCUS

Saxo-Norman artefacts

A display of Saxon-Norman objects demonstrates that there may be some degree of continued use of the amphitheatre’s space after the Roman abandonment of the site, albeit for a completely different purpose.

The excavations have also helped to clarify some of the medieval structures associated with the Romanesque St John the Baptist’s Church (at one point Chester’s cathedral) and how its churchyard encroached on the original amphitheatre during the Middle Ages.  The other side of the churchyard’s footprint, extending into the Grosvenor Park, is currently under excavation by West Cheshire Museums and the University of Chester.

Medieval jug

Medieval jug

xx
Post-medieval finds demonstrate how, as the amphitheatre was gradually lost due to stone robbing for other buildings, the accumulation of debris and ongoing building works as Chester continued to expand beyond the walls, the former amphitheatre site continued to be occupied, and broken objects continued to be abandoned, as they are today. A particularly nice find was a pit dug in Tudor times, containing a fascinating array of broken, discarded items.  Civil War finds included lead gun shot and the remains of gunpowder holders.  There is even a fabulous packet for a loaf of bread with a pre-decimalization price printed on it, with bright, happy colours, a splendidly cheery tiger and the strapline “The Swinging New Bread.”  Very 60s!  See below.

Detail of John McGahey’s 1852 painting of Chester from an air balloon (with my rough indicator of location of amphitheatre in red show how completely the amphitheatre area was covered over).

Detail of John McGahey’s 1852 painting of Chester from an air balloon (with my rough indicator of location of amphitheatre in red show how completely the amphitheatre area was covered over).

 

The Chester amphitheatre’s tethering stone

xx

Brilliant bread packet, pre-decimalization, which was implemented in 1971

Brilliant bread packet, pre-decimalization (which was implemented in 1971)

The amphitheatre through the ages, an excellent illustration covering an entire wall of the exhibition, demonstrating how different periods are captured in the vertical stratigraphy of the site. By India Hackett

The amphitheatre through the ages, an excellent illustration by India Hackett covering an entire wall of the exhibition, demonstrating how different periods are captured in the vertical stratigraphy of the site, including a Civil War canon, the tethering stone on the Roman level, flanked by gladiators, and the Iron Age roundhouse and fields being ploughed beneath.


The Chester Amphitheatre exhibition at the Grosvenor Museum runs until 12th July 2026
.  Access to the exhibition is free of charge.  For the Grosvenor Museum’s opening times, see their website for information here: https://grosvenormuseum.westcheshiremuseums.co.uk/

The University of Chester’s Virtual Reality approach to the same amphitheatre site during the Roman period (Our City, Our Story: Deva Victrix in VR), was showcased for the first time on  Saturday 23rd May, 11am – 4pm in Exchange Square (Northgate St).  Julian Baum and other key members of the project team, were all on hand to provide insights into how visitors of the very near future will be able to interact directly with virtual Romans in a reconstruction of their original setting.  Feedback is seen as part of the project design and when people filled in the feedback forms, was very welcome.

Image from the "Our City, Our Story: Deva Victrix in VR" project

Image from the “Our City, Our Story: Deva Victrix in VR” project.

Accuracy has been of great importance to the project.  The VR model of the amphitheatre itself, for example, is derived directly from the data unearthed in the excavations that are the subject of the museum’s exhibition and was developed by Julian in conjunction with Tony Wilmott, one of the site’s excavation directors.  The animated Roman residents of Deva Victrix, developed by VR company Imito, help to bring the amphitheatre to life, allowing visitors to participate and interact with Roman soldiers and other characters.

Although the museum exhibition and the VR project are separate entities, run by the museum and the university respectively, the two approaches, traditional and virtual, have the potential to work in tandem and to complement each other very well.  The current museum exhibition presents the physical and tactile raw data (artefacts and architectural components) and uses interpretation boards to create an empirical understanding of how data is translated into knowledge about the amphitheatre.  Nothing can replace artefacts as evocative components of the past, but the information derived from them can be handled in a number of different ways.  Although running as a separate project, the VR approach demonstrates the potential for a more interactive and immersive exposure to a vision of the past that allows a relationship with history to be formed, however briefly.  The combination of artefacts and displays of the information they impart, supported by immersive experiences, may provide a glimpse of the future of how history could be communicated and how people may begin to explore their past in a variety of different ways.

Julian Baum’s reconstruction of the fortress at Chester and the outer buildings in the mid 3rd Century.

Objects of privilege in the Ridgway Silver Gallery at the Grosvenor Museum, Chester

Sugar sifter spoon. George Walker I, Chester. 1794-95. 1988.53

Silver is one of those materials that can be sublime in its simplicity, relying on the brilliance of the fabric, the purity of shape to create beauty and elegance in functional items.  It can also be elaborately ornate, relying on layers of opulent, showy adornment for its impact and to make its ostentatiously unsubtle point.  The Grosvenor Museum in Chester displays both extremes and everything in between, in its Ridgway Silver Gallery.  The Ridgway Gallery is dedicated both to items of silver that were made in Chester and those that were purchased elsewhere, mainly in London, for use in Chester.

Chester had a long tradition of silver-working at least from the 13th century onwards.  The Chester Goldsmiths Co., registered just before the Dissolution in 1531, were the key authority for the city goldsmiths at that time, laying down standards and rules for production, assaying, and marking objects.  Assaying is a quality control method by which the content of silver in an item is determined, and confirms its purity, integrity, validity, which in turn offered guarantees of value for purchasers.  In the 17th century there was a decline in production by Chester goldsmiths as London grew to prominence.  This was aggravated by the Civil War which raged around Chester’s city walls.

In spite of some very rocky years, the 18th century marked an upturn in the fortune of Chester silver production, described by Peter Boughton as its heyday.  Two family dynasties, the Richardsons and Lowes, became synonymous with locally produced silver.  After 1884 Chester’s Goss Street Assay Office was one of only four in Britain that was still active.  This was only closed in 1962, by an Act of Parliament.

Silver has always been a prestige item, intended for conspicuous display.  Even the most modest items would have been unaffordable for most of Chester’s population, so the market for silver was a clear indication of the prosperity of the city’s elite.  Wealthy individuals and families, as well as the city corporations, institutions and establishments were all affluent consumers of Chester silver, purchasing it to demonstrate both their personal status and the prestige of local enterprises.

The Grosvenor Museum. Source: Geograph (1335188)

The Grosvenor Museum was founded in 1885-6 but it was not until the 1950s that it received the first pieces that formed its earliest display of silver.  In 1951 the Trustees of Chester Municipal Charities placed their collection of silver on long term loan.  The following year the museum began to acquire items of its own.  The earliest goldsmith represented in the Museum’s collection is William Mutton in the 16th century. The first exhibition of Chester silver was held to celebrate the Festival of Britain in 1951, which was held at the County Hall.  The present gallery was opened in 1992 by the Prince of Wales.  It was named after Canon Maurice Ridgway, the Vicar of Bowdon, who contributed a major work to the study of Chester silver with his 1968 Chester Goldsmiths from Early Times to 1726.  In 2000, the museum published Peter Boughton’s Catalogue of Silver in the Grosvenor Museum.

Interestingly, most of the more elegant and arguably the most aesthetically rewarding examples in the museum’s collection were earlier and were made in Chester, whilst the more ostentatious and elaborate pieces, including racing cups and church plate, were made in London and elsewhere, and purchased by local institutions.

 

Silver pap boat by George Walker I of Chester, dating to 1771-2. My photo. Catalogue number 39, p.72-74

A stunning piece that helps to demonstrate the skills that go into the less elaborate pieces is the small pap boat made in Chester by George Walker I, dating to 1771-2.  It is made of sterling silver and is 12.3cm long.  Pap, according to Peter Boughton, is a “mix of stale white breadcrumbs or flower, cooked to a sloppy mush in water, with the possible addition of a little wine, beer, beef-stock or milk” and was fed to infants as young as three months to aid with weaning them onto solids. It sounds truly appalling. It was also fed to invalids, poor things.  By holding the pap cup in the palm of the hand, it was easy to place the feeding end into the mouth and, by tipping it gently, much easier to control delivery of the content than using a handled jug.  Fifteen other Chester pap boats are known.  Due to the lack of fussy decoration, the shape of the jug can be admired without distraction, and the absence of anywhere to hide in the crafting of the object allows the goldsmith’s mastery of the art to be appreciated.

 

Peter Boughton’s Catalogue of Silver in the Grosvenor Museum. Chester. Phillimore., 2000. The cover image is a silver-covered cup made for the Chester races by Peter and William Bateman  of London 1813-4, (no.96 in the Catalogue)

Of the many elaborate and ornate pieces in the Ridgway Gallery is the silver-gilt cup, with a cover, made for the Chester races by Peter and William Bateman  of London 1813-4, (no.96 in the Catalogue).  It represents an item that was purchased for use in Chester rather than made by one of the local goldsmiths.  Horse racing on Chester’s Roodee has been taking place since the early 16th century, with the earliest known painting of racing on the Roodee dating to the earlier 18th century, by Peter Tillemans.  Even today competition winners are awarded elaborate trophies or cups, often highly ornate, usually in silver, sometimes gilded, recognizing a significant sporting achievement with a substantial and expensive display of splendour.  This was the object chosen for the cover of Peter Boughton’s Catalogue of Silver in the Grosvenor Museum, published in 2000.  Its Neoclassical design sits somewhere between the elegant simplicity of the unadorned items and the more ornamented items that are virtually encrusted with decorative emblems and motifs.  It was made for the second Earl Grosvenor, who paid £70.00 for it, and on the opposite side from “Chester Races 1814,” shown on the catalogue cover, shows his heraldic device.  As well as emulating a Classical shape, it also makes use of Classical motifs.  The Bateman family of London had a long history of providing racing cups for the Chester races, and this is stylistically very similar to other trophies that they produced for Chester.

Peter Tillemans: Chester and the Roodee c.1710–1734, showing a horse race in action. Grosvenor Museum, via ArtWork.org

 

1755-6 (catalogue no.27) by Richard Richardson II, Chester

Another twin-handled ornate cup is the  St Martin drinking cup 1755-6 (catalogue no.27) by Richard Richardson II, Chester.  It is a rather bizarre mixture of decorative concepts. It’s key theme is the cast figure of St Martin of Tours on horseback, mounted on the lid.  Boughton comments that the use of cast figures is rare, and was confined to particularly elaborate vessels.  Although St Martin (c.316/336 – 397) became the third Bishop of Tours, be was born in Hungary, and served in the Roman cavalry in Gaul (modern France).  He performed a number of miracles and acts of charity.  The scene on the lid shows one of his best known charitable acts, similar in tone to the Good Samaritan, where he uses his sword (the top half missing on this piece) to cut his cloak in half to give to a freezing beggar dressed only in rags. As he slept that night, St Martin dreamed that Christ appeared before him wearing that section of the cloak that he had donated to the beggar.  St Martin left the army to become a follower of Hilary, the Bishop of Poitiers in southern France, and went on to found at least one monastery.

The other side of the St Martins Cup. Source: Peter Boughton's Catalogue of Silver (catalogue no.27), p.59

The St Martin’s Cup, showing the other side from the one above.  Source: Catalogue of Silver in the Grosvenor Museum, Chester. By Peter Boughton, p. 59, catalogue number 27

The main body of the vessel is a good example of fine chasing (the working of the silver to produce relief decoration).  Boughton  says that the chasing is the equal of examples found in contemporary London:  “employing a wide range of textures from very find matting on an even ground to vigorous punching over an irregular embossed surface.”  The style of the cup is derived from rococo designs but the body decoration is heavily influenced by Chinese porcelain and ornament, with obviously oriental themes combined with contemporary emblems from the decorative arts in the bottom half of the cup around the entire body of the vessel.  On one side a lady sits flanked by two cherry blossom trees and a tall slender pyramid or obelisk, with flowers in her lap, shown above; on the other, a figure sits with fishing rod in one hand, a sprig of cherry blossom in the other, and an urn set back to the rear right.  Above these scenes in the upper register are two ornamental cartouches, designed to house crests, of which one is empty and the other has an obviously later lion’s head crest, probably dating to the 19th century, shown on the above photograph.  The only parts of the cup that have not received some form of decoration are the two handles, which are beautifully shaped but plain, apart from thumb rests and the sinuous, tapering “ducks-head” ends.  The lid shows a Chinese style pavilion on one side, and another tall slender pyramid or obelisk on the other.  There is no connection between St Martin and east Asia, so the themes are presumably purely decorative.  The overall impact is remarkable, demonstrating the artist’s skill and the purchaser’s ambitions to own a unique, highly noticeable item that would surely draw the attention and comment of visitors.  Its style and themes make it unique in Chester.  Interestingly, it is thought that although is has the mark of Richard Richardson II on the base, it may have been purchased in London and the marked when it arrived in Chester.

 

Coconut standing cup made by George Lowe I, dating to c.1807-17. My photo. Catalogue no.59, p.94-96

One of the most curious of the objects in the gallery is a remarkable glossy black goblet-style cup with a silver rim and a silver stem and base.  The 11cm tall black “standing cup” is perhaps one of the more surprising objects in the Ridgway Silver Gallery in Chester’s Grosvenor Museum.  The glossy section of the cup, looking like opaque black glass, is actually half a coconut.  It relies for its visual impact not on ornate decoration, but on the quality and texture of its materials, the high polish, and its satisfyingly rounded profile.  It was made by George Lowe I, whose mark appears on the base, and dates to c.1807-17.  Lowe originally had a business on Watergate Street and in 1803 moved to new premises in Bridge Street. The Lowes passed the trade from father to son over six generations.  According to Peter Boughton’s catalogue (pages 94-6), the coconut was fastened to the stem with a single brass screw and washer.  As well as being decorative, the silver rim protects the brittle top of the coconut.  There is a letter “B” engraved on the opposite side of the rim, but it is not known today what this originally signified.

The Lowe family shop was on Bridge Street Row East, the second from the right in this 1820 print by George Bateman. Photograph on one of the interpretation boards in the Ridgway Gallery

Using coconuts to make novelty drinking vessels was not uncommon.  Once the fibres were removed from the exterior, they could be scraped to a  smooth surface and then polished to provide the high gloss seen here.  As coconut is not porous, and can be worked until very thin, it was perfect as an imaginative alternative to glass, with an unusual texture and appearance, providing an instant talking point.  Although records indicate that Lowe made other coconut cups, this is the sole survivor, but one of his other examples sold for £1 5s 0d (which equates, in the National Archives Currency Converter, to around £58.00 today).  Examples made by other manufacturers in Chester were recorded, with Boughton’s catalogue listing twenty four examples.

Coconut cup by Cornelis de Bye in 1598 in the Walters Museum (number 571046).  Source: Wikipedia

The earliest known record of a coconut cup dates from 1259, but the earliest surviving examples date from the 15th century, when coconut was thought to have magical, supernatural properties, and due to its rareness was a prestige material that made it a good partner for silver.  As shipping and trade made coconuts more accessible and prices came down, many more continued to be  made.  In Europe coconuts were commonly covered with ornament and scenes, much like carved wood, showing great skill, but opting for a completely different type of aesthetic preference.  The extravagant example to the right is by Cornelis de Bye, dating to 1598.  The inscription in Dutch, “Drunkenness is the root of all evil,” is accompanied by Old Testament scenes.

 

A highly ornate but diminutive item is a baby’s rattle combined with a whistle, bells and, before it was lost, a stick of coral on which the baby could chew, protruding from the socket at the base.  It was placed around the baby’s neck on a ribbon, both a toy and a teething device.  It was made by John Twemlow of Chester, in 1828-29.  Confined mainly to the home, it is equally impressive as an example of conspicuous wealth as the above cups.

 

 

St John the Baptist Hospital badge from 1682

Finally, one of my favourite object groups in the gallery is one about which I can find out very little information:  the large oval hospital badges, engraved with specific motifs and legends and often featuring skulls as reminders of human mortality.   Apologies for the photographs, which are the best of several attempts at photographing several of the badges.  Unfortunately there is no information about the badges in Boughton’s catalogue of the museum’s silver, because they were only loaned to the museum and are therefore not included.  If you have any additional information do get in touch.  Although hospital badges are very familiar from modern nursing, where they have been traditionally awarded to nursing staff for both professional achievements and for association with particular hospitals, the 17 to 18th century ones on display in the Ridgway Gallery were awarded not to nursing staff or hospital governors but to almsmen, those who lived in almshouses and other housing provided by hospitals and religious institutions, often sponsored by named benefactors.  Almsmen and almswomen were awarded places in almshouses on the basis of certain stringent criteria, and were then responsible for certain duties within the almshouses.  The hospital and its buildings were intentionally demolished during the Siege of Chester (1644-1646) to prevent them walls being used as cover by the Parliamentarians, following which Oliver Cromwell put its reconstruction into the hands of the newly founded Chester Corporation.  In 1714 the hospital buildings were ordered to be taken down and rebuilt, creating today’s Bluecoat Building and associated structures.

St John the Baptist Hospital badge by Thomas Maddock, 1736-37

On the examples in the Ridgway Gallery, the large oval almsmen badge disks, held onto clothing by use of a wooden attachment at the rear, commemorate benefactors who provided alms via the Hospital of St John in Chester, which was located outside the Northgate.  At least five of those on display from the 17th century have the name Richard Bird inscribed on them in large letters, the name of the benefactor, together with the year 1682. The 17th century ones date to 1682, whilst the one with the wooden backing also shown here was made by goldsmith Thomas Maddock (who was mayor in 1744-5) and dates to 1736-37.  The badges were made during a period of great change for the hospital and its dependents.

 

Walking into the Ridgway Silver Gallery can be a bit overwhelming due to the sheer amount of lighting, polished silver, reflective surfaces and luxuriant red backgrounds, and it can be difficult to know where to start, but the interpretation panels and labelling are excellent, Peter Boughton’s catalogue is provided on a shelf for perusal, and there are some fascinating individual objects.  From the elaborate and ornate to the elegantly minimalist there is something for everyone.

Visiting details are available on the Grosvenor Museum and Art Gallery here.

 

Sources:

The detailed Grosvenor Museum interpretation panels in the Ridgway Silver Gallery offer an excellent source of information.

Books and papers

Boughton, Peter 2000. Catalogue of Silver in the Grosvenor Museum.  Phillimore.

Ridgway, Maurice 1968.  Chester Goldsmiths from Early Times to 1726.  John Sherratt & Son Ltd

Stewart-Brown, R. 1926. The Hospital of St John at Chester. The Historic Society of Lancashire and Shire, vol. 78, 1926, p.66-106
https://www.hslc.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/78-6-Stewart-Brown.pdf

Websites

Great British Life
Inside the historic almshouses in Chester and Nantwich, 25th February 2025, by Joanne Goodwin
https://www.greatbritishlife.co.uk/magazines/cheshire/24884488.inside-historic-almshouses-chester-nantwich/ 

 

Thomas Robinson two-handled silver cup

Sterling silver cup by Thomas Robinson, 1690-92, Boughton catalogue number 5. The base is chased with alternate alternate spiral fluting and gadrooning, with two ornate handles, but the upper part of the body is plain and shows off the reflective surface of the vessel. Cups like this were used for caudle, a spiced mixture of alcohol (wine, ale or brandy) and gruel.  The balance between un-ornamented surface and the gently sweeping decorative features has particular elegance.

Exhibition: The light and bright “Print International” at Tŷ Pawb, Wrexham

Currently on display in Wrexham’s Tŷ Pawb art venue is the Print International exhibition that ends on 24th January. Print is not something that I know anything about.  Combining art and craft in a creative marriage of aesthetic refinement and technical skills, it has always seemed even more out of reach, physically as well as conceptually, than the more direct relationship between the artist and her/his brush and pencil on paper.  All the teaching in traditional art history that I received back in the Jurassic seems to have left me more than somewhat ill-equipped to assess what print is all about.  All the more reason to go and see a selection of different techniques and a variety of aesthetic concepts and approaches in a single exhibition.

The gallery at Tŷ Pawb has been organized beautifully to display all the pieces to advantage, open and light-filled.  Whether you are very familiar with print as a medium, or a complete novice like me, the Print International exhibition offers the opportunity to engage with an enjoyable and appealing series of bright, light, clean, art works, happily counteracting some of the more greyscale and muddy aspects of winter’s usual offering.

Andrew Wilson. Broken Clock. Copper photogravure

The exhibition was not about explaining print as an art form.  The information boards described the different workshops and artists represented (see list at end), but chose to let the art works speak for themselves, which allows the viewer to assess each piece on its own visual merits, but does not help to demystify how the effects were achieved or why print may be just as powerful as a medium of expression as the more traditional and conventional forms of artistic output.  Divorcing print from other types of artistic medium, however, concentrates the mind wonderfully on what this medium has to offer.

As the Wrexham-Chester area tips more firmly into winter, what was striking was how light-filled and bright the exhibition was, the perfect anecdote to seasonal murk and mire.  It was the lightness of touch that struck me most in the prints on display, including the careful colouring, delicate and gentle in one corner of the room, bold planes of attention-grabbing colour in another, with plenty of stark and arresting monochrome to balance the brighter, lighter shades.  Multiple textures were also on display, with flat surfaces of colour, heavy linearity, spidery filigree, tactile surfaces and subtle washes.  Topics included the representational, pure pattern and pure abstract, and every combination in between. Very attractive experiments were made with text as an art form, as well as more conventional text- and icon-based posters.  If you are familiar with printing techniques, there are plenty of different approaches of these on display too.

The photos below were taken on my smartphone, so are a bit feeble (it and I don’t seem to have a particularly empathetic relationship), and the reflections don’t do them many favours with my shadowy image in some of them, but hopefully give a sense of what’s on show.  See more, with different prints from those below shown, on the Tŷ Pawb website, which also has details of opening times etc.

Martine Baldwin. Shelter. Woodcut

Paul Hogg. City. Screenprint

Tara Dean. New Growth (top) and From Here (bottom). Screenprint

Thomas Gravemaker. Typographic Posters. Letterpress

Michelle Woodward. Erddig. Lino print

Inga Eicaite. B-04. Etching

 

Matt Martin. Get Thee Behind Me Satan. Screen print and mixed media

Lee Nutland. Skeletons I, Pentre Ifan. Copper photogravure

Nicola Scott. A touch of Eva n3a. Callagraph with watercolour

David Armes. Between Sun Turns. Letterpress

Aafke Metens. Deidad. Risograph

An enjoyable visit to the Williamson Art Gallery and Museum, Birkenhead

Williamson Art Gallery, Birkenhead

The Williamson Art Gallery in Birkenhead. Source: Wikimedia Commons

When the Williamson Art Gallery and Museum opened in 1928, Birkenhead was still reaping the rewards of the economic industrial expansion created by the ship building industry.  The gallery was funded by philanthropists John Williamson and his son Patrick Williamson. John Williamson was a shop owner and merchant who became a director of Cunard when it formed as a public company, serving until 1902.  He was also on the board of Standard Marine Insurance and served on the Merseyside Docks and Harbours Board. His son does not appear to have had a career but co-operated with his father on philanthropic activities.  The museum’s design is a simple brick-built square, with a prominent facade that references Classical features.  The steps dominate in the above photo, but there is a ramp at the side for easy access.  The gallery is all on one floor, so this too provides ease of access.

Nicholas Eames, The Dancer (1983)

Nicholas Eames, The Dancer (1983) with two textile works by Anna Sutton behind it

I visited with my friend Julian in December 2025.  We drove guided by the SatNav, which was needed as the Williamson is surrounded by something of a residential rabbit warren (with some very attractive Victorian terracing if you keep an eye open).  There is a free car park on Mather Road that had plenty of spaces.  Full visiting details, both for drivers and those using public transport, are at https://williamsonartgallery.org/visit/.  Apologies for the quality of the photos inside the gallery, taken on my smartphone.  As always in galleries there is reflection from protective glass in many of the photos, but hopefully they will give a good idea of the exhibits.

The gallery is all on a single storey, arranged in a square of linked galleries around what is now the café (with artworks on the walls) and a sculpture garden.  A pre-visit inspection of the site plan indicated that around half of it is used for permanent collections, whilst the rest is home to temporary exhibitions.  The twin focal points are, in the main, 19th and early 20th century and modern, including furnishings, ceramics, paintings, textiles, sculptures and, on this occasion, a modern video installation.  The inclusion of temporary exhibitions is probably very attractive to local people who have reason to visit on repeat occasions.

The first of the galleries that we visited was a temporary exhibition showing the results of the 31st exhibition of the annual Trinity Buoy Wharf Drawing Prize (2025).  The exhibition “celebrates the role and value of drawing with creative practice and provides a forum to test, evaluate and share current drawing practice.”   There is a wide variety of styles and subjects along a continuum from representational to abstract.   The skill on display was impressive, and some of the pieces were visually stunning.  The mainly monochrome entries drew attention to different combinations of line and texture, with the analytical, humorous and occasionally alarming all demonstrating the versatility of the medium.

For me, the highlight of the permanent collection was the Maritime room, which is filled with models of ships built locally, as well as the actual fittings from some of the ships depicted by the models.  A model of the Birkenhead Docks is really evocative of the size and scale of the operation (shown at the end of the post).  The models of Mersey ferries are truly splendid, including a deliciously curvaceous Art Deco-flavoured example.  It was a genuine delight to see a model of the S.S. Mauretania, as well as objects that furnished her, because my grandad was quartermaster and helmsman on the ship.  It turns out that my friend Julian’s grandfather was a marine engineer, so there was a particular sense of connection for both of us with these beautifully crafted insights into Birkenhead and Mersey shipping. The whole room is redolent of local maritime history.  Given that the Liverpool Maritime Museum is disappointingly closed indefinitely whilst funding is being sought, this gallery in the Williamson offers the best available local insight into Mersey shipbuilding and shipping.

Models of some of the Mersey ferries

Models of some of the Mersey ferries

The ship's bell from the Mauretania

The ship’s bell from the Mauretania

Side lever paddle steam engine

Side lever paddle steam engine, representing an engine of about 1840

Birkenhead Corporation Ferries poster

Birkenhead Corporation Ferries poster

 

The C.S.S. Alabama, built Camell Laird’s shipyard, in theoretical violation of official Government neutrality in the American Civil War, is represented at the Williamson by both an oil painting and a model (the latter shown at the very end of this post).

Oil painting of the CSS Alabama by Samuel Walters (1811-1882)

Oil painting of the CSS Alabama by Samuel Walters (1811-1882), painted after 1862

 

Piece of furniture from Arrowe park.

Piece of furniture, a sideboard, from Arrowe park. None of the Arrowe Park furniture can be ascribed to a particular carver or workshop.  Diana is at centre, possibly an earlier French panel.  The cupid-like boys flanking her represent food and drink.

Entirely in step with this growth of maritime industry and the rise of commerce, was Arrowe Hall.  The name is now associated with as a hospital, it was originally built in 1935 for John Ralph Nicholson Shaw, who inherited Arrowe Park from his uncle John Shaw, Liverpool Mayor and slave trader.    A small gallery is devoted to reconstructing one of the Arrowe Hall rooms, with some truly astonishing, beautifully crafted, enormous and aesthetically rather appalling pieces of furniture and ornamentation, a mish-mash of medieval, Tudor and Jacobean styles executed with enthusiastic Victorian panache.  The information board says that most of the pieces of furniture date to the 1880s, but were carved with earlier dates:  “This deceit, and staining the oak very dark, was meant to give the owner a heritage and respectability that they didn’t really have.”  The detail in the fireplace overmantel below shows considerable skill imitating earlier Renaissance style friezes. At the time of writing, the house is now a home for adults with learning difficulties.

 


sdfsd

Pieces from the Della Robbia Pottery, Birkenhead

Pieces from the Della Robbia Pottery, Birkenhead

Similarly, the Della Robbia Pottery room is bound to split aesthetic opinion.  Della Robbia Pottery, taking the name from Luca Della Robbia (1400-1481), and on whose style it is loosely based, was a remarkably successful Birkenhead enterprise for a short period of time between 1894 and 1906.  It was established by Harold Rathbone (1858-1929), who worked with professional designers but also hired young people locally who he trained up.  It is lavish, ornate, brightly coloured, glossy, often with multiple textures and sculptural components.  Rathbone strained at the Slade School of Art and became a pupil of Ford Madox Brown, and the influence of the Pre-Raphaelites is clear in many of his pieces.  Many of the themes of pieces produced by the pottery feature angels, cupids and mythological figures, as well as elaborate and complex patterns.

sdsfds


xxx
xx

Another small room focuses on ceramics that were either made and used in Merseyside or were imports, brought back to the Mersey docks from the far east to meet the demand of local consumers.  Chinese ceramicists cottoned on very quickly to the types of decorative themes that were popular in the west, and produced specific types of design, including specific types of shape, for the European market. The mix is diverse, but there are one or two pieces that directly reference the maritime.  The influence of Chinese ceramics is very clear, made either locally or imported, in some of the examples, but there are more localized themes as well.  There were seven different sites in Liverpool that were making porcelain, all operating between the mid and late 1700s.  Unfortunately, none of the factories used manufacturing marks so it is difficult to determine which factory produced which pieces.

xxx

Maria Prymachenko - Autumn is Riding on Horeseback

Maria Prymachenko – Autumn is Riding on Horeseback

Paintings by Ukrainian children, produced since the start of the war, from the Sunflower Dreams Project were on display during our visit, alongside paintings by Maria Prymachenko.  The exhibitions produced by Sunflower Dreams are displayed in Britain, North America and Europe.  Although the Sunflower Dreams Project exhibition at the Williamson ended in December 2025, at the time of writing you can still find full details about the project, with samples of the paintings produced by this admirable initiative on https://sunflowerdreamsproject.org/.  Maria Prymachenko (1909-1977) specialized in Ukrainian folklore and was awarded a gold medal at the World Exhibition in Paris in 1937 for her wonderful, brightly imagined paintings.  She was largely forgotten after the Second World War, but there was a resurgence of interest in her work in the 1960s and she is now featured in a number of international museums.

Philip Wilson Steer. A Girl at her Toilet, 1892-3

Philip Wilson Steer. A Girl at her Toilet, 1892-3

The painting collection on display during our visit strongly featured the landscape and seascape artist Philip Wilson Steer (1860-1942), who was born in Birkenhead, although grew up elsewhere.  He had spent time in Paris and was strongly influenced by the Impressionists and other contemporary artists.  In his A Girl at Her Toilet of 1992-3, the theme of women engaging in personal behind-the-doors activities, so popular with Impressionist painters, is given a more dramatic overlay of contrasting colours, clearly inspired by Éduard Manet.  the label says that the “intimate or even voyeuristic” tone of his painting was “ridiculed by English critics partly for the perceived indecency of his choices of subject matter.”  By complete contrast, his Seascape off Walmer of 1930 was painted as he began to lose his eyesight, retaining only peripheral vision by 1935 when he moved almost completely over to watercolour. The entire composition is made up of thin washes of pale blue that create a delicate, almost abstract seascape with a single small boat in the distance, creating the only sense of depth.

Seascale off Walmer, 1930 by Philip Wilson Steer, 1860-1942

Seascale off Walmer, 1930 by Philip Wilson Steer, 1860-1942

There were a set of paintings by Albert Richards (1919-1945), who has the sad distinction of being the youngest official War Artist to be killed in action in the Second World War, just two months before VE Day when the jeep in which he was travelling ran over a landmine.  He was born in Liverpool but moved to Wallasey when young, training at the Wallasey School of Art.

Albert Richards - Della c.1938

Albert Richards – Della, c.1938. Painted when the artist was attending Wallasey School of Art. Gouache on paper.

Many of the other paintings on display by other artists from the period, both watercolours and oils, are obviously influenced by more accomplished Impressionist and Post-Impressionist works, but are interesting  as examples of how local artists were influenced by the latest trends.

Temporary installation - Di Mainstone's "Subterranean Elevator"

Temporary installation – Di Mainstone’s “Subterranean Elevator,” which shows continually throughout the day. On until the end of January.

Because at least half of the Williamson is dedicated to temporary collections, a lot of the paintings are in storage.  None of the better known examples from the permanent collection were on display when we visited, including the glorious watercolour of Brunel’s S.S. Great Eastern beached on the Mersey for repair work by William Gawin Herdman in 1863 and the Joseph Mallord William Turner’s dramatic watercolour Vesuvius Angry, both of which I was really hoping to see.  I checked with the information desk after our visit, but the consensus was that they were both in storage.  The comprehensive and very nicely presented online catalogue shows what the Williamson holds, but it does not indicate what is or is not on display.
xxx

Charles Eyes 1767 Liverpool and Birkenhead

Liverpool and Birkenhead, attributed to Charles Eyes 1767, showing Birkenhead Manor and Priory. This photo is taken from the Williamson’s online catalogue at https://williamsonartgallery.org/item/1580053/

The spacious and comfortable café, with more paintings on the walls was producing some very good-looking meals and bakes, and the coffee was excellent.  One of the paintings was a very evocative one of pre-industrial Birkenhead showing the manor and the ruined priory, the sister paining of one in Liverpool’s Walker Art Gallery.  I couldn’t get to it without trampling some diners underfoot, so the picture to the right is taken from the online catalogue. There is also a small shop area with books against one wall, and a few postcards.  The sculpture garden, which can be reached from the café, looks interesting, but it was pouring with rain, so we abstained.

The Williamson represents Birkenhead and the Mersey, both past and present. The policy of the gallery is to mix its core collection of 19th and early 20th century art and decorative arts, with temporary exhibitions, often featuring contemporary works, and it is well worth keeping an eye on what their temporary exhibitions offer, either by checking the Williamson website or signing up to the email newsletter.

 

Frozen Fabric: Spectrum by Anna Sutton 1983

Frozen Fabric: Spectrum 1983 by Anna Sutton OBE (b.1935), British textile artist and designer. In this example she transforms a simple weave into a sculptural object, “merging textile traditions with minimalist abstraction.”

17th century Japanese temple bell, in the Arrowe Hall room.

17th century Japanese temple bell, in the Arrowe Hall room. If it ever goes missing, you will know where to look!

CSS Alabama

CSS Alabama