Walking the history of Chester’s canals, from the river Dee to Boughton #2 – The Walk

This post has been divided into two. Part 1, already posted here, looks at some of the history of the Chester city canals, in brief. Part 2 is a mainly photographic account following a walk along the canals from the point where the river Dee connects to the canal network to just beyond Tarvin Bridge.  Part of this was once the Chester Canal, which then became the Ellesmere and Chester Canal, as two different systems joined up with the rest of the canal network, and finally became the Shropshire Union Canal, the name by which it is known today.

Map of the first part of the canal route

Map of the first part of the canal route. The start point is marked by the red dot.  The rest of the route follows the canal as far as the Chester Boughton Hall Cricket Club

Map of the entire route from the Dee to Chester Boughton Hall Cricket Club

Map of the entire route, with the orange arrows showing the route from the Dee to Chester Boughton Hall Cricket Club. The pink arrows are the route I took from the Little Roodee car park to the start of the canal.  The darker purple arrow marks the arch beneath the railway viaduct that continues the river walk.

Detail of Tollemache Terrace

The walk begins at the point where the canal meets the river Dee, at the red dot (What3Words ///golf.finishing.upset).  It follows the tiny section of the old Chester Canal around the corner into the Dee Branch, which was created to allow access from the Wirral Line to the Dee.  The walk then crosses the roving-bridge with views up along the Wirral Line, across to the boatyard and down Tower Wharf Basin towards the main line of the canal to the east.  The walk then proceeds between Tower Wharf Basin and the Dee Branch, round the corner into the turning basin and along the rest of the canal, without any additional complications.  You can, of course, do as much or as little as you like. There is much more to see than included here – it’s a terrific walk.  I went as far as the Chester Boughton Hall Cricket Club, and the photographs go that far, but of course you can walk on as far as Wolverhampton if you have the time and stamina!

The return route is slightly different.  I parked in the long-term Little Roodee car park, which is under the city walls, so on the return route along the canal walked up onto the city walls (What3Words ///gone.dome.paths) and followed the walls back to the car park.

Map of the return route via the city walls

The slightly different return leg of the route, which leaves the main line of the canal and goes up on to the city walls looking down on the canal before heading, still on the city walls, towards the Little Roodee long term car park

There is plenty of parking in Chester, but I chose to park in the Little Roodee (What3Words ///helps.going.budget) because I was not sure how long I would take, and this is a long-term fixed-fee car park.  In the event, with plenty of stops to take photographs, it took around two and a half hours in total, two hours out (with lots of stops to take photos) and then an hour back to the Little Roodee via the City Walls, coming off the canal and walking above it from near to the King Charles Tower.  There are plenty of places to stop for drinks and a bite to eat.

The starting point

The starting point, where the canal tips water into the river Dee. The lock gates are long vanished, buy you can see where they once were.

The two main points to make at the beginning of the walk at the lock between the canal network into the Dee are that 1) this is obviously derelict and no longer usable, meaning that the canal network is now divorced from the river; and 2) this is one of the earliest parts of the Chester system, a legacy of the first Chester Canal, which went from Chester to Nantwich.  The connection with the river authorities had not been agreed before work began on the canal, and it took a number of years before the essential link between the Port of Chester and the Chester Canal were negotiated.

The walk continues over the road, from where this photograph was taken. Note that the canal passes under the road bridge.  Although this is now a fixed bridge, it was once a swing bridge to allow vessels of all heights to enter and leave the canal system.

Over the road (cross with care as it is on a blind corner) you continue along the canal, staying to its left.  This is the final set of locks as you come from the west and south, or the first as you begin to proceed up the canal system towards Nantwich, the source of the water.

Beginning to explore the Chester leg of the canal system

Beginning to explore the Chester leg of the canal system

On your left is a housing development with retail at its base.  This marks the site of the old Dee Basin which is where, after coming down a flight of five locks, narrowboats and wide barges would enter a holding area to await the tide.

The former Dee Basin

The former Dee Basin

 

The former Dee Basin

The former Dee Basin, shown on signage in the Tower Wharf Basin

When the Chester Canal was first built this was a tidal basin, but when the Chester Canal and the Ellesmere Canal merged, the water level was controlled by locks.  Continuing on, and staying left of the modern lift bridge, the bridge ahead of you leads you into the opening of the so-called Dee branch and on to Tower Wharf and the heart of the Chester canal system.   To proceed, do not go under the bridge (the footpath ends here) but go up the flight of steps to its left, turn right and cross the road and enter the Tower Wharf basin via the white gates.  On your right is the main line and Tower Wharf.  On your left, at a much lower level, is the Dee Branch, a requirement after the Wirral Line was added by the Ellesmere Canal (see an explanation of this in Part 1).  A lock was added to allow access to this lower section that flows out to the former Dee Basin and the river lock.

The Dee Branch

The Dee branch, with the main line up the bank at a higher level.

Tower Wharf basin

Tower Wharf basin

 

Telford's Warehouse

Telford’s Warehouse

There are some terrific features to look out for in the Tower Wharf Basin.  When the Wirral Line was built a new boatyard was added with a graving dock, both still in situ, and the boatyard not only survives but has been in continuous use since it was built.  Immediately on your right, at the far southern end of the basin, is a late 18th century building called Telford’s Warehouse (now a pub), designed by Thomas Telford with the open arches allowing vessels to load and unload under cover.  Running along the side of the Dee branch is an attractive row of Victorian brick-built terraced housing on Whipcord Lane, post-dating the canal.

Straight ahead is what is known as Taylor’s Boatyard after a former owner, complete with the graving dock.  The graving dock is a dry dock into which ships can be floated, and then the lock emptied so that hulls can be worked on.  Sadly it is surrounded, for safety reasons, by ugly metal fencing, but it is a lovely feature.  The boatyard lies beyond.

Looking down from the roving-bridge into the graving dock

Attractive iron column in the graving dock

In 1802 business in the Basin had not only picked up but was doing so well that its capacity was considerably over-stretched and a new basin was required, named North Basin, which was surrounded by more warehousing.  An absolutely delightful roving-bridge or snake/turnover bridge connects Tower Wharf with North Basin, an innovation that allowed horses pulling boats to cross the canal without being unhooked from the vessel.

North Basin

North Basin

The roving bridge

The roving bridge

If you have crossed the bridge, re-cross it to return to the central section of the basin, between the Tower Wharf Basin and the Dee Branch and retrace your steps.  Instead of going back up to the road where you entered, go under the bridge, following the towpath.  From here on, the route simply follows the towpath.  There are too many sights and sites to describe in detail, but here are some of the most interesting features contemporary with the working canal, with links to more information where I have found it.

As you leave the Tower Wharf Basin complex, you walk under the railway bridge and turn left into a section known as the Turning Basin, made particularly wide to enable horse-drawn vessels to negotiate the sharp turn into the basin.  There is a turning hook on the wall just under the Raymond Street Bridge that was also there to help vessels make the turn.  If you look up to the south (or your right, heading out along the canal) note that the canal follows the line of the city walls.

Looking back at the turning basin at the entrance to Tower Wharf Basin

The other end of the basin, leading to the locks

The other end of the basin, leading to the locks

Before the Ellesmere Canal Company introduced the Wirral Branch, there used to five locks that went all the way up to the Dee Basin, which has now largely been filled in and used for modern housing.  When the new branch was added, the bottom two locks were demolished and the canal diverted north.  The three remaining locks are still fully functional today and allow vessels to navigate a 33ft (10m) drop/rise.  At the top of the locks is a square house with a prominently overhanging roof eave, again one of Telford’s designs.  At this point today the canal runs under the St Martin’s Way ring road before carrying on along the foot of the northern stretch of the city walls.

After passing a row of modern house on your left you will notice two bridges overhead, the first tiny.  This is the somewhat battered-looking Grade II listed Bridge of Sighs, probably built in the 18th century. Although it is named after the magnificent one in Venice, the similarity lies in the fact that both were used for carrying prisoners, in this case from the prison to the chapel in the Bluecoast School to receive their last rites prior to execution.  The next bridge carries Upper Northgate Street over the canal, some sdfdsf ft / sdfsd m above.

 

The tiny Bridge of Sighs over the canal, followed by the Northgate Street bridge

Bridge of Sighs

Bridge of Sighs, Chester, shown from Upper Northgate Street

Triassic sandstone through which the canal was cut

Triassic sandstone through which the canal was cut, allegedly following the line of a Roman ditch

The canal passes the King Charles Tower as the canal and city walls part company, the canal briefly heading southeast and then due east.

 

The back of the Memorial Chapel next to Abakhan on Gorse Stacks

The back of the Penri Chapel next to Abakhan on Gorse Stacks. The Iceland on Frodsham Street is on the right

Looking back to the city walls and the King Charles tower above the canal. It is at this point on the reverse leg of the walk that there is a path up to the walls, which leads back to the Little Roodee car park.

 

Signage at Cow Lane Bridge

 

 

Queen's Place

Queen’s Place

 

This unexpected structure at the end of Queen’s Place is just a facade with no building behind it, the remnant of a lecture hall once attached to the 1777 Independent Chapel

The original Griffiths Corn Mill is now the Mill Hotel and Spa

The original Griffiths Corn Mill is now the Mill Hotel and Spa

Footbridge

Covered footbridge linking two parts of the hotel, with the Hoole water tower beyond

 

Steam Mill

The Grade II-listed Steam Mill building was built in 1786 as one of Britain’s first steam-powered flour mills. The listing details can be found on the Historic England website

This canalside building near the Union Canal Bridge is in a very sorry state.

This was a busy area, with industrial and commercial enterprises moving in to take advantage of the proximity of the canal.  There are a number of very fine buildings to spot here, and if you follow Stuart Shuttleworth’s walk (see video below) he takes you into some of the surrounding streets to explore some of the relevant buildings behind the canal.

Union Canal Bridge. Details are available on the Grace’s Guide industrial history website.

One of the protective iron uprights on the Union Bridge stonework, with rope markings from the barges pulled by horses

City Road Bridge (1863) by J. Mowle and Co.

Replica Spitfire, apparently once used as a raft

Replica Spitfire, apparently once used in a raft race

Old Harker's Arms

Looking back to the Old Harker’s Arms

 

Moxy Hotel with Waitrose beyond

The Chester leadworks shot tower. Information about the works and the tower on the Historic England website

Signage along the canal showing original photograph of the leadworks

Sign on the edge of the canal, and in front of a building site for “luxury retirement apartments”

Wharton Court

Wharton Court

Hoole Lane Bridge, 123A

Hoole Lane Bridge, 123A

Hoole Lane Lock

Hoole Lane Lock

Hoole Lane Lock

Hoole Lane Mission Hall. Information at Hoole History and Heritage Society

Tollemache Terrace

Tollemache Terrace

Chemistry Lock and sluice, Grade II listed. More information on the Historic England website

Towards the Bridge Inn (the white building)

Towards the Bridge Inn (the white building)

Tarvin Lock

Tarvin Bridge Lock

Chester and Boughton Hall Cricket Club

The view of the canal as it moves out of Chester towards Waverton and beyond

 

Starting the return leg of the walk at Tarvin Bridge Lock, next to the cricket club

Walking back into Chester, past the Boughton water tower.  See details on the Historic England website.

The point on the towpath at which I walked up to the flight of steps to go up to the city walls and turn right to return to the car park.

 

Sources

The full list of sources are in Part 1

 

Walking the history of Chester’s canals, from the river Dee to Boughton #1 – Short History

This post is divided into two. Part 1 looks in brief at some of the history of the Chester city canals, mainly to untangle the complicated story of what is happening at the Tower Wharf Basin, where the Chester and Ellesmere Canals came together.  Part 2 is a mainly photographic account of a walk along the canals from the river Dee to the Chester Boughton Hall Cricket Club, just beyond Tarvin Bridge.

The pink arrows are my route from the Little Roodee car park to the start of the canal. The orange arrows are the route taken from the start of the canal at the river Dee to Chester Boughton Hall Cricket Club. Details of the walk are in Part 2.

Cow Lane Bridge 1880s

Cow Lane Bridge in the 1880s. Source: chesterwallsinfo

This post begins with a short description of the history of the Shropshire Union Canal, describes why the intersections just beyond the Northgate staircase lock is so complicated, and goes on to describe the walk.

The Shropshire Union Canal runs today from the Mersey and the Manchester Ship Canal at Ellesmere Port, to Autherley Junction near Wolverhampton on the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal over a distance of 66.5 miles (107km).  Because it runs beyond the city walls, only making its presence felt to tourists where it crosses Northgate and along the base of the city walls, it does not feature on the city’s usual tourist routes.  Unlike Chester’s well known medieval, Georgian and Victorian architectural attractions, the canal is more directly a component part of the city’s industrial past, but is just as essential in the city’s story.

The history of the Shropshire Union Canal

During the 18th century civil engineer James Brindley (1716-1772) was responsible for building over 365 miles of canals.  Brindely realized that any inland waterway network would need to connect to all the great navigable rivers that connected to the sea, including the Thames, the Mersey, the Severn and the Trent, incorporating other important navigable rivers like the the Avon and the Dee.  The network was a sprawling affair, but it revolutionized transport, avoiding roads that would become mired and impassable in winter, as well as unnavigable sections of rivers, and the riverine problems of tides, drought and flood.  Water into and out of the canal system was regulated and therefore predictable, and allowed year-round transport.  The advantages became very clear very quickly, and manufacturing and trading businesses began to locate themselves at critical points on the canal network.  Eagerness to invest in infrastructure resulted in a canal boom in the mid to late 1700s.  Each new section of canal required an Act of Parliament, subject to Royal Assent, and Act after Act was passed as the network expanded.

The Chester Canal. Source: Shearing 1985, p.150

The  execution of the canal project for Chester was deeply flawed.  Jumping on the canal bandwagon, entrepreneurs and investors envisaged a money-making venture that would bring Shropshire and Cheshire into the mainstream trade network with Birmingham, the nation’s canal hub and centre of industry, via a junction at Middlewich with the 1777 Trent and Mersey Canal.  Unfortunately, the builders of the Chester Canal did not have agreements in place to connect their new Chester Canal either to the Trent and Mersey Canal, which denied them permission to build a junction, or with the River Dee Company, which also put barriers in their way leading to several years of negotiation before a satisfactory solution was reached.  The Chester Canal, opening in 1779, was not built to Middlewich, where it had been planned for the Chester to join the Trent and Mersey, and instead stopped at Nantwich, segregated from the rest of the national canal network.  With little traffic carrying low-value cargoes, as well as a packet boat service, the canal was a fairly substantial failure.  In 1787 the Beeston staircase locks collapsed and there were insufficient funds to pay for repairs.  The Chester Canal hovered on the verge of bankruptcy.

The complex arrangement of the Ellesmere Canal

The complex arrangement of the Ellesmere Canal and its branches is shown as thin blue winding lines. The thick blue line from Chester is the Dee. The yellow lines are roads. Click to see a bigger version. Source: Wikipedia

If it had not been for the 1791 Ellesmere Canal project, the Chester Canal would not have managed to limp on much longer.  The proposal for sections of canal to link the Mersey at Netherpool (now Ellesmere Port) to both the river Dee at Chester and the Severn at Shrewsbury was ambitious, but attracted sufficient support for a surveyor to be hired and possible routes to be explored.  The Ellesmere Canal proposal was presented to parliament and received its Royal Assent in April 1793.   Although shortages in funding prevented the realization of the full vision, shown right, Chester was at last brought into the national canal network. Part of this necessitated the addition of a new branch of canal from Chester to Ellesmere Port, which connected with the Chester Canal in what is now the Tower Wharf Basin.  The two companies merged in 1813, becoming the Ellesmere and Chester Canal Companh.  In 1833 the Middlewich branch was added, as the Chester Canal company had originally planned, and was connected to the rest of the network via the Trent and Mersey.

Hunter 1782 map with canal

Hunter 1782 map with the canal before the basins were added for the Wirral Line

These changes required major infrastructure changes in Chester itself that are still clearly visible today.  Starting from the former interface between the river and the canal, just off Sealand Road, the derelict remains of the river-canal lock are clearly visible as industrial archaeology.  The gates have long gone and this section of the lock and the branch that once lead into the Dee Basin, along Tower Road on the map below, on its way to the Dee Branch, is full of aquatic plant life.  As you walk along towards the Dee Branch, rounding the corner and passing under the bridge, you find yourself in the basin complex, the Ellesmere Canal Company’s solution to how best to incorporate the Wirral Line north to Ellesmere Port.  However before the Ellesmere Canal Company was involved, the Chester Canal simply ran straight ahead, running directly along the Dee Basin into a set of five staircase locks before heading east towards Boughton.

Canal and River Trust map of the basin and wharves, showing the complex arrangement of locks and basins required to incorporate the Wirral branch of the canal to Ellesmere Port.

 

Map from the 1858 Roberts Chester Guide

Map from the 1858 Roberts Chester Guide, showing the big Dee Basin at the far end where locks connected it to the Dee. Click image to enlarge

The set of basins and wharves that became necessary when the Chester Canal was incorporated into the Ellesmere Canal Company’s plans capture the fascinating history of how the area’s canal system was forced to evolve.  Three different sections of the canal are involved in this complex arrangement, shown above.  The earliest of these phases belongs to the original Chester Canal, which begins at the river Dee and once headed straight along into a series of five locks that climbed the hill to the dramatic sandstone cut and onwards to Hoole and Boughton before turning south to Christleton and beyond.  The second phase is the Ellesmere Canal Company’s civil engineering work to incorporate the new “Wirral Line,” which headed in a roughly northerly direction out of Chester.  This now chopped off the Chester Canal at the base of the locks, demolishing two of the five locks, to create the Tower Wharf Basin.  The new arrangement cut off the canal from the river, meaning that another section of canal, called the Dee Branch, had to be created parallel to the main basin and accessed via a lock, to allow vessels to travel between the main line, the Wirral line and the Dee.  It is not an elegant solution, but it worked.  The rest of the canal is very straight forward as you walk towards Hoole, Boughton and beyond.  The historical interest in those sections of the canal is more about the bridges and the flanking architecture that grew up around the canal.

The docks at Ellesmere Port during the 19th century

The docks and wharves at Ellesmere Port during the 19th century, from the Ellesmere Port canal museum archives

In 1846 the decision was made to bring together the various canal and railway interests together under one umbrella organization, the Shropshire Union Railways and Canals Company, providing the different sections of canal from Ellesmere Port to Wolverhampton with a single name:  the Shropshire Union Canal.  In 1894 the Manchester Ship Canal opened, and the Ellesmere Port access to the Mersey was now via the new shipping channel.

In spite of canalization of the Dee in the 1730s was intended to make the rapidly silting river navigable and to make Chester competitive once again with Liverpool, but in spite of these measures silting continued and the river became impractical for serious commercial shipping and shipbuilding, particularly in the face of Liverpool’s rapid expansion.  The last ships were built on the Dee in the early 20th century, ending a centuries old industry, and the connection between the Shropshire Union and the river went out of use.

Chester Railway Station

Chester Railway Station 1848. Source: Hoole History and Heritage Society

The railway came to Chester in 1840, picking up some of the slack, but Chester’s days as a centre for trade and industry were over and the main financial opportunity that the railway brought was tourism.  The canal, however, continued to be used as part of the canal network, connecting to maritime trade via the Mersey.  Eventually, as rail replaced the canals, many of them became derelict, only reviving as leisure resources in the later 20th century.

The canal attracted many businesses along its edges, and today the canal preserves a considerable amount of commercial and industrial heritage, adding a welcome extra dimension to Chester’s historic legacy.  The canal network today is used for pleasure, mainly in the form of cruising, walking and cycling.  It still covers a vast region of England and Wales and is managed by a mixture of state organizations and by both regional and local charities.

Schematic map showing how Chester relates to the canal network

Schematic map showing how Chester relates to the canal network today. Source: Swanley Bridge Marina

As canals have become attractive for residential development, new housing has also been erected, some developments more sympathetic than others, but all interesting.  The mixture is captured in the walk in Part 2. Apart from a few isolated examples, most of the warehousing that once flanked the basins and the canal has long gone, replaced by modern apartments, including student accommodation and retail outlets.

The Dee no longer connects to the canal network.  The lock between the river and the Dee Branch of the canal, lying just over Sealand Road, is completely derelict.  One of the locks further along is padlocked shut. The old swing bridge that had allowed vessels to interrupt road traffic to enter the canal network was replaced by the fixed road bridge in the 1960s.   Today the leg of the Dee branch of the canal running parallel to the Basin, once used for access to the river, is used for mooring privately owned narrowboats.

Signage at the canal basin showing information about Telford's Warehouse

Signage at the canal basin showing information about Telford’s Warehouse

I have kept this history brief, merely to introduce the walk.  Rather than reinventing the wheel, please see the Sources below, which contain much more information.  The three video links also provide an excellent overview, between them, of the canal, its history, and some of the buildings and businesses associated with it.  The first is by John Herson, one of whose guided canal walks I have done and thoroughly enjoyed, which focuses on Tower Wharf, the Canal Basin and the relationship of the canal with the Dee.  The second is by Stuart Shuttleworth and looks at the main line of the canal as it passes through Chester.  Together they form a brilliant introduction to the subject, showing the key places to visit.  At the end, underneath Sources, there is another video by “Pastfinder,” which is longer and explores what remains today in more depth, walking and talking at the same time, making it quite easy to retrace his footsteps.  There are some fascinating additional pieces of information in this.

John Herson:

Stuart Shuttleworth:

 

Sources:

A lot of information is contained in the two videos above and the one at the end of the post.

Other sources of information are as follows:

Books and papers

Carrington, Peter 1994. English Heritage Book of Chester.  Batsford / English Heritage

Martin, Richard 2018. Ships of the Chester Rivers.  Shipbuilding on the Dee from Chester to the Point of Ayr 1800-1942. Bridge Books

Mosse, J., David Lobband and Judith Pile 2023 (9th edition).  Collins Nicholson Waterways Guide 4. Four Counties and the Welsh Canals.  HarperCollins

Nicholson, R. 1989 (4th edition). Nicholson/Ordnance Survey Guide to the Waterways 2: Central. Robert Nicholson Publications and Ordnance Survey

Shearing, Edwin A. 1985. Chester Canal Projects: Part I. Journal of the Railway and Canal Historical Society. Vol XXVIII, no.3, November 1984. p.98-103

Shearing, Edwin A. 1985. Chester Canal Projects: Part II. Journal of the Railway and Canal Historical Society. Vol XXVIII, no.4, March 1985. p.146-154

Ward, Simon 2013 (2nd edition). Chester. A History. The History Press

Websites

Canal and River Trust
Welcome to Chester. Escape the city on this tranquil waterway (PDF)
https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/media/document/0z8YCnXdfYHg_am-LmUGSg/p22Wl115w_dWrQTRa-XYJd5Q5nl2UR6N17EY2G1JFyc/aHR0cHM6Ly9jcnRwcm9kY21zdWtzMDEuYmxvYi5jb3JlLndpbmRvd3MubmV0L2RvY3VtZW50Lw/0192bddd-4001-76ad-a95b-0ad3662ccdcc.pdf

Canal Routes
Chester Canal History
https://www.canalroutes.net/Chester-Canal.html
Chester Canal Route
https://www.canalroutes.net/Shropshire-Union-Canal.html#Chester-Canal-Route
Ellesmere Canal – Wirral Line
https://www.canalroutes.net/Shropshire-Union-Canal.html#Ellesmere-Canal-Wirral-Line
Shropshire Union Canal
https://www.canalroutes.net/Shropshire-Union-Canal.html

Cheshire West and Cheshire
Chester Canal Conservation Area Character Appraisal Ellesmere Port to Nantwich (PDF)
https://www.cheshirewestandchester.gov.uk/documents/planning-and-building-consultancy/total-environment/conservation-and-design/conservation-area-appraisals/canal-conservation-area-elesmere-port-to-nantwich-latest-version-261118.pdf
Chester Characterization Study
https://www.cheshirewestandchester.gov.uk/your-council/policies-and-performance/council-plans-policies-and-strategies/planning-policy/chester-characterisation-study

chesterwalls.info
Photographs of the Chester Canal Old and New, parts 1-5
https://chesterwalls.info/gallery/canalgallery.html

Chesterwiki
(with a lot of adverts interspersed)
Canalside
https://chester.shoutwiki.com/wiki/Canalside
Canal and Boatyard
https://chester.shoutwiki.com/wiki/Canal_and_Boatyard

Grace’s Guide to British Industrial History
James Brindley
https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/James_Brindley
William Jessop
https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/William_Jessop

Heritage Chester
Bite-Sized Wonder – The Lead Shot Tower
YouTube video

Historic England
Bridge of Sighs, Upper Northgate Street
https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1375967
Telfords Warehouse, Raymond Street

https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1375919?section=official-list-entry

Inland Waterways Association, Chester and Merseyside Branch
Chester Heritage Port Designation Document (PDF)
https://70cf2f03-3eb2-43c8-889f-b8f841fc3757.usrfiles.com/ugd/70cf2f_64e6633c34b9420f8c06a368857d1a42.pdf

UK Waterways Guide
Map of the Shropshire Union Canal
https://www.ukwaterwaysguide.co.uk/map/shropshire-union-canal/all-branches

“Pastfinder”:

A sunny spring canal walk south from Waverton to Golden Nook Bridge

Waverton to Golden Nook Bridge

Waverton to Golden Nook Bridge

In late October last year I took advantage of a beautiful sunny day to walk the towpath along the Shropshire Union canal from Waverton towards Chester, which I posted about here.  A couple of days ago the sky was clear and the sun was out, so I grabbed my rucksack and some damp-proof footwear (needed, as it was distinctly soggy underfoot) and headed out to do the section of the canal between Waverton and the wonderfully named Golden Nook Bridge, near the village of Hargrave, to its south. It took about an hour and a quarter each way at a brisk pace, stopping to take photos and chat to other walkers.  It was a rewarding walk, even at this time of year when there were only a few signs of spring beginning to make its mark.  Because of the season, the light meant that the walk provided two different experiences, there and back, with a silvery, ethereal light on the way out and a much more colourful walk on the return leg.  The birdsong was particularly lovely, and I have added a 36-second video at the end that was done purely to catch something of that sound.  I was lucky enough to see a kingfisher, a flash of bright orange as it settled on a branch followed by a flash of bright, electric blue as it took off.  It was too fast for me to photograph, but an absolute treat to see.

Waverton is just off the A41, so very easy to reach.The car park is quite small, with a capacity for about 20 cars, but at 11am there were only a few other cars parked up.  The What3Words address for the car park is ///fingertip.snored.deals.

To start the walk walk from the car park to the canal, just a few steps away, and turn right, heading south.  During the first couple of minutes the canal passes homes on the other side of the canal.  There is a section where it passes a golf course on the opposite side, but it is soon a very rural route with open fields flanking the canal.  Long Lane suddenly appears to the right as you walk south, the quiet stretch of road running parallel to the canal.  Shortly after this, official moorings begin on the other side of the canal, with a line of narrow boats and small cruising boats as far as the eye could see.  I stopped at Golden Nook Bridge and turned back, but the moorings presumably continue all the way to Tattenhall Marina.

St Peter's Church, Waverton

St Peter’s Church, Waverton

In total, there and back, the walk took about 2 1/2 – 3 hours, all on the flat.  Unlike the section towards Chester this part of the towpath is not metalled, and can be very uneven underfoot with tree roots and stones poking through.  It was also quite muddy after several weeks of rainfall.

 

View from Golden Nook Bridge and beyond to the sandstone ridge

View from Golden Nook Bridge and beyond to the sandstone ridge

 

Golden Nook Bridge, looking from the south and returning towards Waverton

Golden Nook Bridge, looking from the south and returning towards Waverton

 

36 seconds of birdsong from one of the canal bridges, taken on my smartphone.  There is a little interference from the breeze, but you can hear the birds giving forth wonderfully.

 

 

 

Metal detecting in a field near Churton, West Cheshire

Button with an emblem of a crown at the top, little stars flanking it and elsewhere around the circuit, and text at the base

Button with an emblem of a crown at the top, little stars flanking it and elsewhere around the circuit, and text at the base

Not only have I never done any metal detecting myself, but I have never seen it being carried out either.  I was lucky enough to have my first exposure to this activity with Rob Jones, famous in these parts for finding the superb Roman lead ingot near Rossett, now in the Wrexham Museum, which lead to the discovery of the Rossett Villa (being excavated late this year by DigVentures after initial work was completed at the site in 2021).  With Helen Anderson, who organized the day with Rob and very kindly invited me along, we met at the field near Churton which is owned by Helen’s family, so we had no problem with obtaining permission.  Rob did all the hard work, whilst Helen and I basked in the sunshine, diligently dry-brushing the thick red earth off anything that Rob found, irrespective of how old or recent it might be.

The other side of the button above

Rob Jones in situ at the field, very kindly agreeing to pose!

Rob has been a metal detectorist since 1996, and in 2020 was awarded the The Searcher Magazine‘s ‘Most Significant Find Wales’ award for his discovery of the Rossett Roman ingot.  He works closely with the Portable Antiquities Scheme, reporting all his finds so that they can be included in the PAS database, and (with luck) helping to identify previously unidentified sites.  He has worked as an on-site expert with archaeological projects at, for example, the Rossett villa and Basingwerk Abbey in Holywell, supplementing archaeological survey and excavation activities and helping to identify potentially rewarding places to investigate.

The field near Churton was naturally less promising than either, not having been home to either Roman or Medieval buildings, but it had the merit of being virgin territory, never having been built on or investigated before.  Although under ridge and furrow in the Middle Ages, it has been largely unused for the last few decades.  We had no real idea what the field might reveal, but it turned out to be a right old mix, even though the field was, in Rob’s terms fairly “quiet.”

17th century musket and pistol balls

17th century musket and pistol balls

  • We were all delighted by two lead musket balls and a smaller pistol ball (above), probably dating to the 17th century, all of them found in one small patch of the field in quick succession.  Even though they are small, the little spheres are noticeably heavy in the palm of the hand. Both the local churches in Farndon and Holt, on opposite sides of the river, both named for St Chad, have musket ball shots in the masonry due to the offensives of the opposing forces that used the churches as their bases.  I have posted about both – the post on the Grade-II* St Chad’s in Farndon (5 minutes down the road from Churton) here, and the one on the Grade-1 listed St Chad’s in Holt here.
  • A very intriguing object was what appeared to be a very small pouch, with holes at the top, perhaps for attaching to clothing. It would be good to know more about what this was used for.
  • One of the most entertaining of the finds was a piece of a toy gun, nicely made and originally painted blue, with the words RUSTLER GEM clearly visible.
  • A small button with four holes, the shape of a flying saucer, was surrounded by lettering, the bottom half of which clearly states “Chester,” with the rest too worn to be read, apart from a possible M. at the start (an initial?) and a clear DY at the end, perhaps preceded by an E.  A brief lurch around the Internet suggests that these are typical on suits and waistcoats of the late nineteenth and early 20th centuries, and are marked with the name of the tailor.
  • Another button with a metal loop has a crown engraved on the loop side, together with other emblems and some indecipherable text, and  is perfectly plain on the other.
  • A broken pair of cufflinks, with only one face remaining, was rather charming, and a piece of thimble was the sort of thing that only an experienced detectorist would have recognized.
  • The oldest coin we found was a penny dating to 1861, and there was also a 2003 five pence piece!

The Rustler after cleaning

Rustler Gem

The other side of the Rustler Gem

The pouch with two holes at the top, function unknown.

 

Top left is the half cufflink. Bottom right is the piece of thimble.

Other bits and pieces were a mixture of broken bits of modern equipment and pieces that were  largely unidentifiable but, as they were found, each piece was welcomed back into the world with equal enthusiasm, brushed free of damp earth, photographed and bagged up for further examination.  There was almost nothing else other than metal, although we did poke around in the holes made, and kicked out all the available mole hills to see if there was anything non-metallic.  It was remnant, random stuff of everyday life, but no less rewarding for that.

 

The other side of the cufflink, showing the lightly ornamented face

The four-holed button showing “Chester” at the bottom and indecipherable text at the top, possibly a tailor’s name, apparently beginning with an M. and ending with DY (perhaps preceded by an E).

Many sincere thanks to Rob for taking the time to spend the day with us, and also for showing us how a metal detector functions, with different fittings available to improve sensitivity, and how a separate pointer probe helps to focus in on the object that the detector has identified after the hole has been dug.  Rob even has a special customized spade for making small holes, not unlike a long-handled bulb planter but far more robust. The metal detector is a far more subtle piece of equipment than I had anticipated, and it was an education to see it in action.  And many thanks to Helen for inviting me!  Truly fascinating, and such a fun and mellow day.

 

 

 

A Roman altar from Boughton, Chester, in the grounds of Eaton Hall

Roman objects at Eaton Hall

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The building that houses the Roman altar at Eaton Hall

The building that houses the Roman altar at Eaton Hall

Eaton Hall is part of the Duke of Westminster’s estate 4.2miles / 6.7km to the south of Chester.  It was very common for wealthy families to feature ancient Egyptian and Roman objects on their estates from the 18th century onwards.  Many of these were imported from overseas, but the cobbled-together display of a Roman altar in a small custom-built structure, flanked by two columns, are thought to have come from no further afield than Boughton, on the eastern outskirts of Chester, Roman Deva.

The gardens are only open to the public for three days a year for charity, and tickets tend to sell out very quickly, so this is not the easiest of the local Roman monumental works to visit, although others are on display in the Grosvenor Museum in Chester.

The Minerva shrine, Chester

The Minerva shrine, Edgar’s Field, Handbridge, Chester

The Roman army had arrived in Chester, Deva, in around AD 74 and, with a requirement for a base on the Anglo-Welsh border area, settled on Chester as a suitable and obvious location.  The river Dee had connections both south towards Wales and northeast via the Dee estuary to the sea, and was defensible.  An earlier Iron Age settlement found during excavations at the Roman amphitheatre indicate that the Roman incomers were not the first to appreciate this location.  The first fortress, built in around AD 76, was an earthen bank with a wooden palisade, gateways and interval towers, only being converted to stone from c.AD 100.  As it grew, the new army base included the usual architectural and administrative collection of a headquarter building, officers’ accommodation, barracks, baths and storage, as well as the elite and unique ‘elliptical building’.   Most of the stone for the new town was quarried locally from red sandstone bedrock, at least some of it derived from Edgar’s Field, on the south bank of the Dee at Handbridge, where a shrine to the goddess Minerva, protector of craftsmen, was carved directly into a red sandstone outcrop.  Beyond the walls were a parade ground, the amphitheatre to its south and, eventually, a civilian settlement (canabae legionis), which inevitably grew up to take advantage of the new population.

It is probable that the altars and tombstones were made by indigenous craftsmen who came to these settlements to take advantage of the disposable income available from both the residents of the Roman town and their fellow settlers.

Julian Baum’s reconstruction of the fortress at Chester and the outer buildings in the mid 3rd Century

Julian Baum’s wonderfully evocative reconstruction of the fortress at Chester and the outer buildings in the mid 3rd Century, with the road leading away from the amphitheatre towards the bottom right, heading out east towards Boughton (copyright Julian Baum, used with permission)

Altars, demonstrating piety towards a particular deity or spirit, could be purchased by Roman citizens for personal worship, or could be donated to public areas.  A specific request for help would be based on a deity’s particular skillset or virtues.  Gods and spirits of place all had different characteristics and were associated with specific roles and functions. Sometimes altars were offered in hope of good fortune or as thanks, a form of obligation in return for a certain request being granted.   Rituals accompanied by offerings took place at such altars to appeal to, appease, or thank a given deity.  Such altars expressed a relationship between whoever erected the altar (a person, family or community), and the deity whose influence had been requested.

Inscriptions carved in Latin onto Chester altars and gravestones have provided considerable information about their owners and the wide range of places from where those owners originated, as well as providing insights about the deities that their purchasers had considered most relevant and helpful to their personal hopes and ambitions, both in life and the afterlife.

All known Roman inscriptions are recorded on the Roman Inscriptions of Britain website (https://romaninscriptionsofbritain.org/about/about-rib-online) itself based on the earlier printed volumes.  The information about the altar in this short article comes from the Roman Inscriptions of Britain website.  The official designation of the Boughton altar on the Roman Inscriptions of Britain website is RIB 460, and is classified as a “private possession.”  The altar was found in 1821 in a field at the north end of what is now Cherry Road, near Boughton Cross, and about 1.8km east of The Cross, in Chester.

The altar is just under 120cm tall, 61cm wide and 50m deep.  It is undated.  There is an inscription on the front and back, but nothing on the sides. It stands on a pedestal, also original. The front is slightly damaged, but the front and back both read

Nymphis
et
Fontibus
leg(io) XX
V(aleria) V(ictrix)

Illustration of the inscription.

Illustration of the RIB 460 inscription. Source: Roman Inscriptions in Britain.

The Roman translation, as provided by the Roman Inscriptions of Britain page reads:  To the Nymphs and Fountains the Twentieth Legion Valeria Victrix.  In other words, the Twentieth Legion Valeria Victrix set this up to the nymphs and fountains.  It seems probable that the altar was built to commemorate guardians of the natural springs in the Boughton area, which probably supplied Deva with its water. The Romans had a particular affinity with natural springs, and often dedicated monuments to them.  The best known in Britain is the dedication to Sulis-Minerva at the Roman baths in Bath, Sulis being the indigenous deity with whom the Roman Minerva was associated.  The Eaton hall altar was not dedicated to a particular deity, simply venerating the more ephemeral but equally important and much-valued spirits of the place.

The springs in Boughton, 1.5km (1 mile) east of the city, which were fed by an aquifer sealed between two layers of boulder clay, were delivered to Chester by an aqueduct and pipes.  One route entered Chester along the line of Foregate Street and the other ran to its south, feeding the cisterns for the bath-house boilers near the southeast corner of the fortress.  David Mason estimates that in a 24 hour period, the military consumed some 2.370,000 litres (521,337 gallons) of water.

 

Roman altars at the Grosvenor Museum, Chester

Roman altars at the Grosvenor Museum, Chester

The Boughton altar is now housed in a structure referred to as “the loggia,” located in an open grassy area lying between the formal gardens, and is roofed and open-fronted. It was presumably designed to loosely emulate a very small Roman temple. Two original Roman columns flank the loggia and, within it and protected from the outside world by railings, is a Roman altar made of red sandstone.  The loggia protects the altar from the elements, and it appears to be in relatively good condition.

Although the Eaton Hall altar is not the easiest to visit, there are some excellent examples of both altars and gravestones in the Grosvenor Museum in Chester, which can be visited throughout the year.

 

Sources:

Books and Papers

Carrington, Peter 1994. The English Heritage Book of Chester.  Batsford / English Heritage

Mason, David, J.P.  2001, 2007 (2nd edition). Roman Chester. City of the Eagles. Tempus Publishing

Websites

Based in Churton
An impressive exhibit of decorated Roman tombstones in Chester’s Grosvenor Museum
https://basedinchurton.co.uk/2022/07/04/an-impressive-exhibit-of-decorated-roman-tombstones-in-chesters-grosvenor-museum/
Eaton Hall Gardens Charity Open Days 2022
https://basedinchurton.co.uk/2022/06/28/eaton-hall-gardens-charity-open-days-2022/

Grosvenor Museum
https://grosvenormuseum.westcheshiremuseums.co.uk/

Roman Inscriptions In Britain
RIB 460 (Eaton Hall)
https://romaninscriptionsofbritain.org/inscriptions/460

 

The magnificent Grade 1 listed Parish Church of St Giles in Wrexham and its medieval context


On this page:

  • Introduction to the Parish Church of St Giles
  • Who was St Giles?
  • Medieval Wrexham
  • A brief history of the church
  • Highlights of a visit to St Giles
  • Final comments
  • Visiting details

You can download an image-free version of this post as a PDF, apart from a small site plan, so that the page count and, should you wish to print it, the ink consumption are kept to a minimum.  Click here to download.

Introduction

Aerial view of the Parish Church of St Giles

Aerial view of the Parish Church of St Giles from the south. Source: Wikimedia Commons

The Grade-1 listed Parish Church of St Giles, (or St Silin or Silyn in Welsh), was the heart of medieval Wrexham and is still the main architectural anchor of the town.  It is possible that it lies over the site of an earlier medieval church, perhaps dating to the 11th century.  Today’s church, built of local yellow sandstone, dates mainly to the late 15th and early 16th centuries.  It is a huge and impressive structure built in two main phases of the gothic style, with five vast windows on the north side and six on the south.  None of the glass is original, all dating to the 19th and 20th centuries, but some of it is very fine, and it all gives a sense of how the church would have looked originally.

Plan of the church from the leaflet available on the table just as you walk in to the main church.

The tower at the west end and the polygonal chancel at the east end were both added in the early 16th century.  The famous tower and the roofs of nave and chancel are elaborately decorated with crenellations and sculptural features.  Only a fraction of the original churchyard remains, but you can still do a full circuit around the church and of the remaining grave markers there remain some fine chest-type grave markers.

The interior is influenced by the window apertures of the Perpendicular Gothic, but the arcades themselves are more consistent with the earlier Decorative style. At the east end a polygonal chancel (5) with a three-sided apse protrudes (3), with the still remarkable remains of a Doom painting over the chancel arch (over 5). There is a 41m (136 feet) tall tower at the west end (12) that is visible from miles around, and from which the views are reportedly spectacular.

The plan today consists of a nave (1) divided from its flanking north and south aisles by an arcade of six arches.  Running along the top of the nave are the clerestories, a row of windows above the level of the aisles that let in light to supplement the stained glass. The east end of the north aisle (the side on which you enter, facing into the town), is now dedicated to the Royal Welsh Fusiliers (9).  Opposite this, the east end of the south aisle is fully occupied by the 19th century organ (7) where the medieval Lady Chapel was once located.  The organ dates to 1894 and its pipes are very nicely decorated, although it hides a stained glass window aperture and the original piscina.  At the western end of both aisles, and lying beyond them, connecting the nave with the tower, is the ante-nave, which is where the font (8) is located.

The nave, with the chancel beyond.

The nave, with the chancel beyond.

I have included a summary below of some of what is known about medieval Wrexham, the period that created the main architectural legacy of the church, mainly because I knew so little about it myself before visiting the church.  Hopefully it will also help others unfamiliar with Wrexham’s past to put it into some sort of context.  I have also included a list of features that I particularly enjoyed.  More formal lists of features are available in a leaflet on the table just beyond the north porch in the ante-nave, as well as in a comprehensive and invaluable visitor guide, with lots of photos, available from the church shop, but I have simply singled out the features that particularly grabbed my attention.

Apart from the font (possibly 15th century) stand-alone features such as the brass eagle lectern (16th century) are generally of post-medieval date.  The pulpit and pews are all Victorian and the choir stalls are missing, which is a crying shame as they were probably beautifully crafted with sculptural carvings.  Inevitably there were 19th century alterations and additions mainly by Benjamin Ferrey in 1866-7, with the chancel refurbished by T.G. Jackson in 1914 and again between 1918 and 1919.  For the most part, with notable exceptions such as the chancel reredos, these have been done quite sensitively, usually with the intention of restoring the appearance of the church rather than elaborating the original vision.

Who was St Giles?

St Giles on the north face of the tower standing on a "grotesque" corbel

According to the guide book (Williams 2018), this is St Giles on the north face of the tower standing on a “grotesque” corbel.

St Giles, whose name in Latin is Aegidius, is one of two saints whose name is associated with the Wrexham parish church.  The other is the Welsh saint Silyn, whose name in Latin is also Aegidius, which may explain why the church has different names in English and Welsh.  An alternative explanation is that the church of St Giles sits over the site of a much earlier medieval church dedicated exclusively to Silyn.

St Giles was featured in the 13th century compilation of nearly 200 stories (hagiographies) of saints called Legenda Aurea (the Golden Legend), by Dominican Friar Jacobus de Voraigne, in which “legend” meant passages of text to be read out aloud.  It was designed as a handy tool for preachers who wanted rousing content for their sermons, a who’s who of revered Christian saints. It spread quickly even before the invention of the printing press in the mid 15th century, after which it went viral with over 80 editions printed, with four editions in English.  It remains an invaluable resource for understanding which saints were most appreciated throughout the medieval period, what was understood about them and how they were valued as models of divinely approved behaviour.  St Silyn was a purely native saint and is not included in the Legenda, but the description of St Giles indicates why he was so valued in the medieval period.

St Giles in the Legenda Aurea, Huntington Digital Library

St Giles in the “Legenda Aurea.” mssHM 3027 f.118v. Source: Huntington Digital Library

According to the Legenda, St Giles was an aristocratic Athenian, who died A.D. c.710. His earliest miracle took place when he gave his coat to a sick beggar who, as soon as he put on the coat, was cured.  On another occasion Giles prayed for a man who was bitten by a snake, and the poison was driven out.  He decided to leave his homeland to escape his spreading fame and head west, and was given passage by some sailors who were saved from wreckage by the saint’s prayers.  Having arrived in southern France, where he remained, he stayed for a while with a hermit, before moving away to become a hermit himself with a spring nearby and with the company of a doe who provided milk.

When the doe fled to him for protection during the local king’s hunt, Giles was accidentally pierced by an arrow let loose by one the king’s hunters.  Giles miraculously lived, but he prayed for his wound not to be fully healed so that he might experience how “power is made perfect in weakness.”  The king, duly impressed, established a monastery and convinced Giles to become its head, which became an important site of pilgrimage.

St Giles 1335

St Giles, Avignon 1335 (Indulgence from 15 archbishops and bishops for the St. Aegidius / St Giles Chapel of the Teutonic Brothers in Aachen). Source: Picryl (PublicDomain)

St Giles became the patron saint of the sick (particularly cripples and lepers), the poor and nursing mothers.  Books like the Legenda ensured that the inspirational story spread across Europe.  There are records of around 162 churches dedicated to him in England and at least 24 hospitals bearing his name.  A leper hospital dedicated to him was located in Chester beyond the Northgate.  He can be identified by his main symbols, a deer, an arrow, and sometimes an abbot’s staff.  His feast day is annually on September 1st.

St Silyn is far more elusive, although sometimes associated with St Tysilio, a Welsh monastic saint of the 7th century (broadly contemporary with St Winefrede of Holywell), whose cult was centred in Powys.
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Medieval Wrexham

Wrexham Town Centre Conservation Area Character Assessment and Management Plan map 2009, with my annotations in pink to show the Parish Church of St Giles and roads that the report states were laid down during the medieval period

St Giles is a vast edifice, the visible architecture built mainly in the 15th and 16th century to house a large congregation in style, something that required a considerable investment in  its basic form, its ornamental embellishments and its furnishings.  Today the church is surrounded by a mixture of urban buildings from different periods.  Throughout Wrexham Georgian and Victorian buildings speak of 18th and 19th century confidence, but unlike Chester, where there are plenty of echoes of its medieval and Tudor past, there are scarcely any obvious indications of a medieval heritage.  However, a bit of hunting around in local resources (with thanks to the local history section at Wrexham’s public library) produced some useful information about the medieval townscape of Wrexham.

Valle Crucis, Llangollen

Valle Crucis Cistercian Abbey, Llangollen, founded 1201

The earliest sign of a settlement in the immediate area is a motte and bailey castle prior to 1161 located 1 km away at Erddig, called “de Wristlesham,” which must have supported a settlement, although it is now known exactly where the accompanying settlement was located.  The predecessor of today’s Wrexham was certainly founded by 1220 because it is at this time that Bishop Reyner of St Asaph allocated half of Wrexham’s income to Valle Crucis Abbey in Llangollen (established 1201), with the other half granted to them in 1227 by Bishop Abraham, also of St Asaph.  Prince Madog ap Gruffyd of Powys Fadog, the founder of Valle Crucis, added to its coffers in 1247 when he granted the abbey the tithes (a type of religious tax earned by parish churches) of the parish church of Wrexham, sealing the link between the town and the abbey, even beyond Henry VIII’s suppression of the monasteries.  By accepting the tithes, the abbey also accepted certain responsibilities to the church, including appointing its clergy and maintaining the chancel.

Seal of John de Warenne, 6th Earl of Surrey

Seal of John de Warenne, 6th Earl of Surrey. Source: Wikipedia

Wrexham’s history started to take a more recognizable and politically stable shape following Edward I’s shake-up of Wales after the defeat of Llywelyn ap Gruffydd (Llywelyn the Last), his brother Daffyd and their supporters in 1282-3.  This destroyed the 13th century challenge to England’s control in northeast Wales. As part of Edward’s plan to bring northeast Wales under English control, Wrexham became the centre of lordship of Bromfield and Yale within the cantref (administrative district) of Maelor under the lordship of John de Warenne, 6th earl of Surrey (best known for building the castle at Holt on the River Dee to the north, completed c.1315).  It is recorded that in 1316 Wrexham was spelled Wrightlesham, and was based in the current location with an accompanying church.  By this time there was a thriving community of 44 tenants who held 52 tenements, with several markets.   In 1330 the church tower fell during a storm, which must have created quite an impression on the town!

7-9 Church Street

The Grade 2* listed 7-9 Church Street, thought to date to the 1500s. Timber-framed, originally thatched, and possibly a single storey mid-medieval hall house, the oldest remaining buildings in Wrexham to which alterations were later made. A floor was added in the 17th century, and it was renovated in the 1990s

The growing importance of Wrexham was confirmed by the king’s grant of a market charter in 1391, permitting it to hold a weekly regional market and annual fair, becoming a focal point for trade and encouraging the growth of local manufacturing and service industries.  Based initially on agricultural activities, with land suitable for some cultivation and a lot of livestock herding, the town’s commercial status was given a boost in the 15th century with the development of coal mining, initially for local consumption, and iron production.  A leather tanning industry, together with all its associated skills, was also well established.

As well as almshouses at Llangollen Abad, a number of documents also refer to the abbey having almshouses in Wrexham, although their original location is not mentioned.  They were destroyed in 1589 by inhabitants of Wrexham, angry by the appropriation of all of the abbey’s properties and financial resources by incomers, and the buildings were converted to raw materials (brick, tile, wood etc) that could be carried off for use elsewhere.

5 – 7 Town Hill, medieval, timber-framed buildings renovated in the 1990s

The revolt of Owain Glyndŵr in the first decade of the 15th century, unlike other unluckier towns in Wales, had no direct impact on Wrexham in terms of attacks and damage to property.  Its effect would have been felt, however, in terms of the disruption to economic activities, transport and communications.  In rural areas the attacks, resulting in loss of resources and income in some areas, would have caused great hardship, and would have led to the fluctuating availability of goods in the Wrexham markets.  Ripples of uncertainty would also have felt throughout the town, as the potential impacts of Glyndŵyr’s activities and the future of Wales, as well as concerns about the immediate fate of the town, would have been extensively debated.

The timberwork revealed in the passageway between 7 and 9 Town Hill Street.

The medieval timberwork revealed in the passageway between 7 and 9 Town Hill.

Unlike Chester, the medieval and Tudor past of which is writ large on the cityscape, Wrexham’s early past is architecturally elusive, most of it demolished and replaced by much more recent buildings, roads and the former Ellesmere-Wrexham railway, its fugitive remnants hidden in nooks and crannies.  The main indicator of medieval Wrexham today is the arrangement of roads that once fanned out in all directions in a radial pattern from the church itself.  Original medieval roads, lanes and alleyways in Wrexham were very narrow, mainly straight, and were characterized by narrow, low buildings.  According to the Wrexham Town Centre Conservation Area Character Assessment and Management Plan report, the wider roads were those where market stalls lined the sides, such as  the High Street.  Other medieval roads and lanes are Abbot Street, College Street, Temple Row, Town Hill, and The Ney.  In 1643 around one quarter of the part of the town that was clustered around the market area was burned down.  It was quickly rebuilt, reflecting both the importance of the town and the funds available locally in the Stuart period, but the fire almost certainly took with it a number of medieval buildings.xxx

The Wrexham and Ellesmere Railway

The former Wrexham and Ellesmere Railway of 1895. The carriage in the distance next to a white building shows the Central Station (moved in 1998) and beyond is the church of St Giles, with one branch of the railway running to its south. This section of railway partially closed in 1962 and completely closed in 1981.  Source: Wikipedia

In spite of the 1643 fire, the 19th century railway that tore up part of the town, and the unsympathetic redevelopments of the 1960s, there are two complete medieval buildings remaining, although you need a sharp eye to spot them, on Church Street (no.s 7-9) and Town Hill (5, 7 and 9).  The Golden Lion pub at the north of the High Street originated in the 16th century.  Otherwise, remnants of medieval timber frames can still be found within some later buildings, the footprints of long thin burgess plots and footprints of shopfronts with yards, where only the yards remain.  Beneath the current ground level there is still potential for learning more about the medieval period:  “The medieval core remains a highly sensitive archaeological area.  There is a strong likelihood that remnants of buildings and deposits may be found in the excavation of land, provided this has not been destroyed by later structures” (Wrexham Town Centre Conservation Area Character Assessment and Management Plan 2009, p.9).

Railway passing just south of St Giles through what was once the southern extent of the churchyard. Source: Facebook

A brief history

The  Gothic church

The parish church of St Giles in the first half of the 19th century by W. Crane. Source: medievalheritage.eu

As mentioned above, the earliest reference to a parish church in Wrexham was in 1220 when the Bishop of St Asaph granted the monks of Valle Crucis Cistercian Abbey in Llangollen half of the income of Wrexham. In 1247, the Prince of Powys, Madoc ap Gruffydd, granted the monks of Valle Crucis the tithes of the parish church of Wrexham.  It is probably from this earliest period that the splendid stone effigy of Cyneurig ap Hywel dates.  The full-sized depiction of the Welsh knight shows him with long hair, no helmet, but with a sword in his left hand and shield over his body, showing a lion rampant and the legend in Latin “here lies Cynerig ap Hywell.”  It was found in the churchyard and moved indoors for its protection, now lying at the west end of the north aisle in the war memorial chapel.

 

14th century corbel sculpture with a mermaid holding a mirror and comb

14th century corbel sculpture with a mermaid holding a mirror and comb facing into the nave on the north face of the south arcade (left as you walk down towards the chancel)

In 1330 on St Catherine’s feast day the church tower fell during a severe storm. It was widely believed that this was because the weekly market took place on a Sunday, angering either St Catherine or God, or both; subsequently the market was held instead on a Thursday.  The original church was largely rebuilt with an emphasis on the gothic Decorated style. The arcades with their very fine lancet-shaped arches and octagonal pillars date from this rebuild. Although some of the sculpted corbels were provided with their sculptural elements in the 19th century, others are thought to be 14th century, including a man with toothache in the north aisle, and a mermaid with mirror and comb in the south aisle (the latter very reminiscent of a medieval misericord in St Oswald’s church in Malpas).  Some of the mason’s marks within the church are thought to belong to this period.  There was no stone tower and no chancel, but it is thought that by the end of the 14th century a wooden bell tower had been added at the west end on the site of the fallen stone tower.

The east end of the church with the former east end window arch now serving as the chancel arch (see bits of tracery from the old window) and the Doom painting above. The three-sectioned apse lies beyond, behind an enormous stone reredos.The pulpit at left dates to the 19th century. The raised semi-circular dais in the foreground is modern.

In the mid 15th century, either in 1457 or 1463, the 14th century church went up in flames, and yet again the church had to be largely rebuilt, based on the footprint of the 14th century church, but adopting the new fashion for the Perpendicular.  A new roof was added.  Only a few elements of the Decorated style, such as the arcades, survived.  Likewise, the decorated corbels that supported the former roof, although they no longer had a practical function, were left in situ.

In 1506 a new set of works took place to transform the church into the structure seen today. The roof was again replaced, this time with a wooden camber beam ceiling, supported on corbels featuring armorial shields.  Sixteen brightly painted angels playing musical instruments or singing look down from the roof, and the glorious Doom painting was added above the chancel at this time (about which more below), with a small red devil’s face on the roof in front of it.  The north porch and a new chancel were added, and the new tower was completed in 1525, extending the length of the church and giving it a magnificent presence in the landscape. The extension of the chancel was achieved by taking out the former east window, which now forms the chancel arch, with part of the former window’s tracery still clearly visible.  The Perpendicular is usually a less lively version of the gothic aesthetic than the previous Decorated, and can be rather regimented and severe, but the sheer number of pinnacles, crockets, battlements, canopies, statues, sculpted corbels, bosses, angels, gargoyles and grotesques, both inside and out, but particularly the famous sculpted elements on the tower, provide the church with real energy.  The font (see further down the page) was certainly present in the 16th century, but its date is unknown.  It was lost during the Civil War, but was remarkably returned to the church in 1843.

The legs of Man, associated with the Stanley family. South aisle, arcade.  Possible mason’s mark in the chiselled block at top right.

Although previous rebuilds had been the result of storm and fire damage, this time the 1506 works seem to have been the result of an investment in status, suggested by the proliferation of Tudor imagery throughout the church, including the Tudor rose and portcullis (associated with Henry VII) and the symbolism associated with the Stanley family (such as the legs of the Isle of Man) who are thought to have invested in a number of religious buildings in the area, including the parish churches at Gresford, Holt and Mold, as well as the superb chapel at the shrine of St Winefrede in Holywell.  The devout Margaret de Beaufort, mother of Henry VII, who married Thomas Stanley in 1482 is often credited with much of this work, but it is not always clear from documentation what form her or her family’s influence or investment took.  If the investment was not made exclusively by the Stanelys, it remains unknown how the financial injection was sourced and where from.

Decorated spandrel on the north porch, showing a splendid lion

Decorated spandrel on the 16th century north porch, showing a splendid, if slightly startled-looking lion

In Henry VIII’s Valor Ecclesiasticus of 1535, a valuation of all the monastic holdings in Britain, it is recorded that pilgrim offerings were being made to images in the church of St Giles (a property of Valle Crucis Abbey), amounting to £2.62.8d, which according to the National Archives Currency Converter is around £1029 in today’s money.  The entire contribution of St Giles to the abbey was recorded as £14 2s 8d (c.£6000 today) for temporalities (secular income such as farms, mills, tenant farmers, mines and quarries and sundry rural and urban buildings that could secure rents), and £54 16s 8d (c.£23,000) for spiritualities (income derived from religious sources such as church tithes and other revenue, pilgrim donations, oblations, and chantries).    It also showed how the abbey short-changed the vicars of its appropriated churches.  The abbot claimed £50 9s 2d (c.£21,000) from Wrexham’s parish church, but the vicar only earned £19 9s 8d (c.£8209 – c.39%).

One of the interesting questions regarding the early Tudor period is what happened after Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monasteries.  The church and other Wrexham resources had become one of many possessions of Valle Crucis Abbey (founded 1201) during the 13th century, but after Valle Crucis had been dissolved, probably in January 1537, the abbey itself was granted by the king to a Yorkshireman, Sir William Pickering, causing significant local resentment from local landowners who had their own designs on the former abbatial property and its incomes.    Although some of the abbey’s land and properties were dispensed of, and most of its building materials stripped down and the church dismantled, many properties that provided incomes were retained by Sir William, including revenues from Wrexham’s parish church.  The income from St Giles for the year 1538-9 (in Appendix II of Derrick Pratt’s book on the subject of the dissolution of Valle Crucis) earned him £50.00 per annum (c.£21,000, according to the National Archives Currency Converter), one of five ecclesiastical incomes that he enjoyed, as well as those from secular properties.  Quite what this meant for how St Giles was administered, including who was now responsible for appointing the clergy, and how and what they were paid is not clear.

The 17th century and Civil War

1524 brass lectern

1524 brass lectern with an eagle on a sphere supported on an ornate stand, with four lion’s feet at its base, which went on to support an original 1601 copy of the King James Bible. It is a surprising survivor of the Protestant attack on the church

The 17th century was a tumultuous period for the churches of England and the borders.  Many were targetted by Puritans determined to eliminate even a hint of pre-Reformation papism, finery and ritual.  The Puritans, suspicious of any rituals and richly ornate ceremonial objects and vestments that echoed elaborate Catholic practices, set about destroying the ornate and the rich.  Worship per se was not discouraged, but the Puritans demanded a purer and more modest relationship with God that reflected honesty and humility rather than wealth, artworks and ostentation.

The church of St Giles did not escape Puritan notice, although the damage could have been much worse.  The organ was destroyed in 1643, the font was removed and a tomb was opened.  John Rowland Phillips gives a vivid description in his Memoirs of the Civil War in Wales and the Marches, describing Sir William Brereton’s advance into Wales:  “In Wrexham they broke in pieces the best pair of organs in the King’s dominions, the lead pipes of which were converted into bullets.”  Phillips seems to feel that they should be congratulated for their restraint in not pillaging homes “purloining nothing save from churches and damaging nothing save what to them appeared superstitious and idolatrous.” (p.181).  It was actually the Bishop of St Asaph who, in 1662, ordered the removal of the rood-loft from the church.  Rood lofts were particularly targeted because they segregated the public from religious activities, instead of allowing them uninterrupted access to the clergy and their lessons.  The sense of mystery and ritual was being placed by unambiguous preaching and sermons.

It is thought that after the destruction of the rood screen, the chancel was segregated from the nave and used for secular, possibly administrative activities, whilst the nave was used by the vicar and congregations.  A surprising survivor of the Puritan visits is the 1524 brass lectern with an eagle on a sphere supported on an ornate stand, with four lion’s feet at its base, which went on to support an original 1601 copy of the King James Bible.  Presbyterian preachers were appointed to St Giles as vicars.

The 18th Century

In the early 18th century, Wrexham had not moved particularly far, in terms of its economic structures, from the medieval period, still based on agriculture, leather tanning and a nail-making industry, with some coal and lead mining.  However the area benefitted from the expansion of the Industrial Revolution, and in the late 1700s John “Iron Mad” Wilkinson opened the Bersham iron foundry in 1762 and the Brymbo smelting plant in 1793.  Even so, by 1801, Wrexham’s population was still only some 2,575 inhabitants, less than half the size of the population in 1841, suggesting that a slow start in the direction of industrialization soon gained traction.

The low screen into the chancel by Robert Davies of Croesfoel

The low screen into the chancel by Robert Davies of Croesfoel

The church benefited from the generosity of Elihu Yale of Plas Grono, best known for his investments in Yale University in Connecticut, today one of the most prestigious American universities, founded in 1701.  His contributions to St Giles were a gallery at the eastern end of the nave in 1707, moved to the west end in 1718, but removed in 1779.  Also in 1707 he is thought to have paid for the installation of the low wrought iron screen that marks the entrance to the chancel, by Robert Davies of Croesfoel.  A Royal Arms of Queen Anne was added at his expense to the north porch in 1718.  Finally, Yale paid for a new organ to be added in 1779, to replace the one destroyed in 1643.  The chest tomb of Elihu Yale is still located at the west end of the church.

A magnificent addition to the church was the wrought iron gateway and flanking railings by Robert Davies (about which more below), who is also thought to have made the screen to the chancel.  They were installed in 1720 and attached to buildings on either side of Church Street, moved to their present position a century later in 1820.

In 1747 the most impressive of the church’s memorials was added.  Sculpted by Louis Francois Roubiliac, it commemorated the life of Mary Myddelton (on which more later).  In 1793 the pressure on the churchyard, where all Anglican burials were interred, was relieved when a new dedicated cemetery was laid out on Ruthin Road.

The 19th and 20th-21st Centuries – restoration and adaptation

The rather chunky sundial was added to the churchyard in 1809

The 18th and 19th centuries marked considerable growth in Wrexham.  By 1841 the population had reached 5,854 and by 1881 it was 10,903.  This was a good period for the church, with the presence of large congregations ensuring its continued relevance and ongoing maintenance.  The presence in Wrexham of new wealth founded on industry, now including brewing, translated into investment in the town’s infrastructure and architecture, as well as the church’s structure and features.  Fortunately in the case of the church, much of the work carried out was sympathetic to the medieval building.  In 1809, the Grade 2 listed octagonal sundial was added to the churchyard, a gift from Edward Ravenscroft.  In 1822 new box pews were added so that the wealthy could purchase their own private places for attending services.  In the same year a new south porch was added.  Sadly for the medieval and later remnants of historic Wrexham, the railway ploughed through much of the town south of the church, taking most of the churchyard with it, opening in 1895.

19th century statue of Moses

19th century statue of Moses with the tablets listing the 10 Commandments standing on a corbel that has a portcullis emblem, one of the armorial symbols of the Stanley family in the Tudor period

A major programme of church restoration was carried out, lead by Benjamin Ferrey in 1866-7, during which a wall painting of the crucifix was found in the north porch.  The family box pews installed in 1822 were removed in 1867 to make way for open pews and the giant statues on the arcades of St Augustine, St Paul and Moses were added in the same year, as was the stone pulpit gifted to the church by Willow Brewery proprietor Peter Walker, twice mayor of Wrexham).  The c. 1747 Roubiliac memorial to Mary Myddelton (more below) was moved to the north aisle in the same year, where it remains.  The 14th century corbels were fitted with new sculptural elements at the same time, although the mermaid holding a mirror in the south aisle and the man with toothache in the north aisle are almost certainly original.  The present organ, with its pipes colourfully decorated, was installed in 1894.  A ceiling boss showing St Giles was added to the north porch some time later, in 1901. The Robert Davies gates were renovated at around the same time.  The south aisle stained glass was installed sometime in the 19th century, five of them by well known stained glass designer Charles Eamer Kempe.  Most of the south aisle is now screened off at least some of the time for community activities, so it may not always be possible to see the windows.

The 1914 reredos by Thomas Graham Jackson

The 1914 reredos by Sir Thomas Graham Jackson

The 1914 refurbishment of the chapel included the installation of the enormous alabaster reredos by Sir Thomas Graham Jackson showing four scenes from the life of Christ, and the three stained glass windows in the apse designed by Jackson and made by James Powell and Son.  The central window depicts the Jesse Tree (substantially hidden by the reredos) and on the left St Giles and the doe is also represented.

St Giles an the doe by Sir Thomas Graham Jackson

St Giles and the doe by Sir Thomas Graham Jackson, in the chancel, facing northeast

The charmingly decorated organ, built in 1894, was restored in 1984.  The next major work at the church was the re-ordering of the church in 2012, which created new facilities for administration, the congregation and visitors, including kitchen, toilets and a meeting room, the conversion of most of the south aisle into a screened-off community space and the re-positioning of the altar, pews and the removal of choir stalls so that the available space could be used more efficiently.
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The Angel Festival at St Giles.

The uplifting Angel Festival at St Giles. Source: The Church in Wales

The church is still going strong today, with services, baptisms, weddings and funerals, as well as ongoing community activities, such as community lunches and regular events such as heritage talks, art exhibitions,  music concerts and Christmas and other seasonal celebrations.  Following the Coronavirus pandemic of 2019 and the losses experienced during the lockdowns, the church organized a remarkable commemorative event, with the making of over 6000 fabric and paper angels, each representing a death directly caused by Covid, all strung across the church.  The photographs from that time show that it was a remarkable sight, a touching commemoration of a terrible period that both involved the community and helped to support it.  As 2026 is the official celebration of the 1876 Year of Wonder, the church is celebrating with a special 1876 Liturgy Service on St. David’s Day on 1st March, together with a celebratory bell-ringing performance using the innovative Ellacombe mechanism that was installed in the bell tower in 1876.

 

Highlights of a visit to the church

The church of St Giles approached from Church Street

The church of St Giles approached from Church Street, with the white medieval buildings, nos 7-9 Church Street on the right.

The leaflet and guide book, both available in the church, will give you their recommended features.  I’ve taken just a handful that struck me particularly for these highlights.

The main approach to the church is via Church Street.  This is recommended, as not only can you see the medieval buildings, numbers 7-9, on your right as you approach the church, but you enter the churchyard via the magnificently ornate gate and flanking railings painted in black and gold.  These were made by Robert Davies of Croesfoel forge near the local source of iron at Bersham, and were fitted to buildings on opposite sides of Church Street in 1720, only being moved to their present position in 1820.  The Davies brothers are probably best known for the stunning gates at Chirk Castle.  On the way in to the churchyard of St Giles the legend over the gateway reads O GO YOUR WAY INTO THESE GATES WITH THANKSGIVING AND INTO HIS COURTS WITH PRAISE,” and on the way out, the optimistic “GO IN PEACE AND SIN NO MORE.”


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On the exterior of the church, there is a plethora of masonry features to admire – almost too many to get to grips with.  The 16th century north porch, through which you enter the church, is two-storey and features the Virgin Mary over the entrance.  Today’s 41m tall tower replaced the original tower that collapsed during a storm in 1330, and was built in the early 16th century.  It is impressively elaborate with statues in niches standing on sculptural corbels and topped with ornamented canopies, its top ornamented with plenty of pinnacles and crockets.  The aisles of the main building, feature huge windows with flattened arches along each side, topped with battlements and an army of gargoyles.  The exception, pointed out to me by one of the church volunteers (sorry – I forgot to as your name!) is a lancet-shaped arched window at the west end of the south aisle, which looks like the earlier Decorated arches that make up the interior arcades.  It is the only one of its type along the aisles, sitting to the east of the chancel, and is not visible from the interior where it is blocked by the organ.

The anomalous window at the east end of the south aisle

The anomalous window at the east end of the south aisle

Continuing to walk to the east, the three apse windows each feature elegant ogee frames around the arched windows.  There is not much of the churchyard left, but some fine chest tombs are a reminder that this was once the burial place for all Anglican burials in Wrexham before the 1793 cemetery open on Ruthin Road.

Chest tombs in what remains of the churchyard

Chest tombs in what remains of the churchyard of the parish church of St Giles

 

St Giles and the doe in the north porch

St Giles and the doe in the north porch, 1901

The two-storey north porch, through which you enter the church itself, was added in the early 1500s, and on the exterior has a niche with a sculpture of Mary and child.  On entering, you will see a vaulted roof with a number of ceiling bosses, the central of which, dating to 1901 is St Giles. Straight ahead, but very difficult to make out, there was a painting on the wall, thought to have been of a crucifix, but sadly only a few black lines remain and the original subject matter is impossible to make out.

 

The North Porch

The North Porch

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The entire north aisle (left as you enter the church), entered via a wooden screen at its west end, is designated as a chapel lined with marvellously colourful flags (regimental colours) belonging to the RWF.

The north aisle

The north aisle

Royal Welch Fusiliers window by Joseph Nuttgens

Royal Welch Fusiliers window by Joseph Nuttgens

A window in the north aisle, dating to 1989, is a lively celebration of the Royal Welch Fusiliers by Joseph Nuttgens, showing different uniforms that have been used by the regiment between 1689 to 1989.

The end of the aisle, as you approach the chancel end, note the effigy of Cynerig ap Hywel, mentioned above.  The end of the aisle is now the Wrexham War Memorial Chapel, but was originally a chapel dedicated to St Catherine, whose image appears on the east side of the tower. The alabaster reredos shows the twelve apostles, with the 19th century window above showing the Sermon on the Mount. Note the 19th century ceiling decorated with colourful bosses. Although it was built during the 1847 restoration to resemble the roof in the main nave, the ceiling bosses all represent local organizations, some of which are still operating today.

Inside, as you begin to walk down the north aisle note the 1910 Edward Burne-Jones stained glass on the left, which was moved from St John the Baptist Church in Hightown in 1988, prior to its demolition, originally presented to St John’s by the owner of the Island Green Brewery in memory of his parents.  With its Pre-Raphaelite palette of bright, rich colours and the almost androgynous holy faces, it is a particularly fine piece, showing eight saints from both Old and New Testaments. all on the background of green foliage (John, Peter, Elizabeth, Paul, Isiah, Daniel, David and Elijah).  The lights at the very top are filled with angels with crimson halos and blue wings.  The inscription at the base, with Art Nouveau foliage wending its way along the bottom, records the date of the window being moved, and the reason for its original installation.  It is easy to walk past stained glass windows without distinguishing between them, particularly in a church where there is so much of it, but there are some fine examples in the church of St Giles that are worth noting.  See a complete set of the St Giles stained glass on the Stained Glass in Wales website.

The Louis François Roubiliac memorial to Mary Myddleton c.1747

The Louis François Roubiliac memorial to Mary Myddelton c.1747

The north aisle also boasts a memorial sculpture by Louis François Roubiliac to Mary Myddleton (1688-1747) of the 17th century Croesnewydd Hall (still standing next to the Wrexham Maelor hospital).  Mary Myddelton was the daughter of Sir Richard Myddelton of Chirk Castle.  I normally don’t pay attention to memorials, as they are very rarely designed to blend in with the architecture and are often dreadful carbuncles on the face of beautiful buildings (Westminster Abbey is a prime example), but this one does require recognition, although to modern tastes it is extravagantly ornate and somewhat melodramatic.  It is a rather good contrast to the Doom painting over the chancel arch, showing a completely different style of interpretation of the same foretold event.  Roubiliac (1702-1762) was a highly regarded sculptor in his French homeland, coming second for sculpture in the Académie Royale’s Prix de Rome.  He moved to London in 1730, where he became very fashionable.  The subject shows the Day of Judgement.  An angel in a cloud blows his trumpet to summon the dead, and Mary Myddelton, discarding her shroud, climbs from her black stone tomb, which bears an indistinct inscription.  Behind her is a palm frond, signifying the Christian promise of everlasting life triumphing over death.  The toppling pillar or obelisk in the background represents diveine judgement and the final end of the material world.

Corbel, perhaps Thomas Stanley

It has been suggested that this corbel represents Thomas Stanley, but quite why Stanley should have the ears of a donkey remains unexplained

Unlike most of the church, which reflects the late medieval fashion for the rather severe and highly linear Perpendicular style of gothic architectural design with flattened arches, the parallel arcades that separate the nave from the aisles were built in the earlier Decorative style, with elegant lancet-shaped arches supported on strong octagonal piers (columns). The livelier and more expressive Decorative style is also found in some of the corbel sculptures found throughout the church (bearing in mind that some of them are 19th century, built in the same style).  Original medieval examples include a man with toothache (north aisle) and a mermaid holding a mirror (north arcade, facing into the nave, photo further up this post), a man with donkey ears (behind the pulpit) and a lady, possibly Margaret de Beaufort (on the east side of the chancel arch, at the very top). The 19th century imitations have taken gothic examples as their models and are an imaginative collection that offer an insight into how the late medieval church originally looked.  In the 18th century the arcades were fitted with galleries, which somewhat minimized the elegant impact of the arcades, but were a curiosity in their own right.  They were removed in the early 19th century.

 

 

The 16th century camber beam roof features ornamental bosses and 16 splendid musician angels, each holding a musical instrument or singing.  In his guide to the church, Williams lists the instruments as follows: 10 playing citherns (similar to lutes), 1 with bagpipes, 1 with a double pipe (shown near the top of this post), 2 playing harps, and 2 playing an unknown instrument.  Follow the line of the roof towards the early 16th century chancel, and look at the chancel arch.  The arch was part of the wall at the far end of the church prior to the building of the chancel, it and once housed a vast stained glass window.  Look at the inner line of the arch (photo below) and you will see the remains of the tracery that once held the stained glass.

Above the chancel arch is one of the most remarkable features of Welsh church art – the fabulous Doom painting showing the Day of Judgement.  It is the most complete example known in Wales, thought to be contemporary with the chancel itself.  The central section is much better preserved than those flanking it, suggesting that the central portion may have been covered over at some stage for some time.  The clerestory windows were enlarged to cast light onto it and make it more visible to the congregation, to whom the warning of an impending Judgement Day was directed.  The central scene is missing its upper register, eliminating Christ’s head and shoulders, but the rest of the scene shows him presiding over figures emerging from coffins, the whole composition highlighted against a background of black merging into dark green.  Christ himself is seated on a rainbow, signifying the promise of redemption, and wears a red robe decorated with floral motifs.  Wounds on his hands and feet and in his side are visible.  To his right (the onlooker’s left) is the Virgin Mary in a cloak of ermine with her breasts exposed to indicate her role as mother.  On the opposite side is St John the Baptist in an animal skin, with the head still attached.  Either side of Christ are saints in robes of yellow or red, and beyond them angels with the symbols of the Passion – nails, pincers and lances.  Below this hierarchy of the divine are small naked figures rising from their graves, some in shrouds.  A mitred bishop and a crowned monarch make it abundantly clear that no-one is spared Judgement.  Hell is at the lower right, further down the side of the arch, with rows of barely visible figures and red flames licking upwards.

Faint remains of the painting at far right

Faint remains of the painting at far right

The Doom painting is flanked by two wooden painted angels, with another immediately above. Just before them is a small, bright red feature that looks like a conventional ceiling boss on the roof.  If you have binoculars or a long lens you will find yourself looking the devil in the face.

Within the chancel itself, with its triple-sided apse, is a very fine triple sedilia, for the clergy officiating over services, consisting of three recesses canopied arches set into the northeast wall of the chancel, where the clergy sat during services.  Above the canopies are highly ornamented panels between the pinnacles.  A piscina was sometimes positioned next to the sedilia, but in St Giles this remained in the nave and is now concealed behind the organ.
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The Sedilia

Detail of the carvings above one of the sedilia canopies

Detail of the carvings above one of the sedilia canopies

 

Don’t forget to look at the baptismal font in the ante-nave on your way back towards the tower.  It is octagonal, with a different motif on every face, and is very fine.  Its date is uncertain, but it was known to have been one of the fittings of the church in the 16th century.  It was lost during the Civil War, but was rediscovered in the early 19th century in Little Acton House (since demolished), returning to the church in 1843.

Walking around in the churchyard, keep an eye out underfoot because, as with many churchyards in the area, some of the gravestones have been put into practical use as paving stones.

 

Final Comments

Wooden, painted angel holding a shield, and stone Green Man with foliage growing out of his mouth.

I have no idea why it took me so long to visit the Parish Church of St Giles in Wrexham, but I am very glad that I have not merely visited, but thoroughly familiarized myself with it over a number of visits, and enjoyed it.  As well as architectural magnificence, the church has real heart, and there is an unusual feeling of continuity between past and present.  Sadly, the 17th century fire, the 19th century railway and the painful decisions of the authorities during the 1960s have destroyed much of the older town’s heritage, as happened in many towns in England and Wales.  However, there remain some fine buildings dating to the 18th and 19th centuries, when the church was well used, providing good hints of what the town must have looked like.  Although the medieval town has almost vanished from modern view, the church itself speaks loudly about the importance of Wrexham to northeast Wales from the 13th century onwards.  It continues to feel like a living part of the community.  A very fine building, and a very fine legacy.

2026 is Wrexham’s commemoration of the 1876 Year of Wonder, with events to showcase Wrexham’s Arts, Culture, Industry and Commerce.  As well as marking the four-month long great Art Treasures Exhibition of 1876 and the first National Eisteddfod to be held in Wrexham, the Parish Church of St. Giles is currently celebrating the 300th birthday of their bells, so January 2026 is a good time to talk about the church, and to visit its architectural finery and get a sense of its importance to centuries of community life.
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Visiting Details

The Parish Church of St Giles is very welcoming to visitors.  It is heated, very well lit, with friendly volunteers on hand to answer questions, and is open every day to visitors except Sundays when it is confined to those attending services,or during weddings and similar events.  There is a small shop selling the guide book (including a 41-point self-guided tour on the back – Williams 2018), postcards and souvenirs. There are digital payment posts for taking card donations, which help to keep the church open and well maintained.  Outside, there is a path that enables you to do a full circuit of the church, which is well worth doing so that you can see some of the carvings, big and small, that line the upper levels of the walls and the roof pinnacles.

Binoculars are very strongly recommended.  There are some superb features to see in the interior including the roof itself, the Doom painting and features just above the arcade level which are very high up and cannot be seen clearly without binoculars or a telephoto lens.  Likewise, there are some splendid features on the exterior of the building, and in particular tower, which are not visible without optical assistance.

Small grotesques on the south side of the church.

Small grotesques on the south side of the church. I love the way the drainpipe has been carefully diverted around both the grotesque and the window.

The nearest car parking is behind the church in the St Giles Car Park off Tuttle Street (pay and display) – see fees etc here), for three hours maximum, with a capacity of 69 cars. You can walk out of the car-park straight up a flight of stairs into the churchyard.  The car park does fill up quickly, and parking to the north of the church is better for anyone with unwilling legs, to avoid stairs.  There is plenty of other parking throughout Wrexham.  I often park at the multi-storey car park at Tŷ Pawb on Market Street (What3Words address ///track.lazy.poppy), which is long-term but inexpensive (at least at the time of writing in January 2026) and has elevators (What3Words ///waddled.famed.filer).  On entry into the car park the system records your registration number and you need this to pay on return to the car park, so do make sure that you know what it is!  The pay point (which is thankfully indoors) is outside the pedestrian entrance to the car park and you have to enter your registration before you pay.  I have always found that there is always plenty of room there if other car parks are full.


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Sources:

Leaflets available at the church

The Parish Church of St Giles, Wrexham n.d.  A Brief Guide to the Church. Leaflet with site plan.
(Also available online at https://stgilesparishchurchwrexham.org.uk/index.php/history)

The Parish Church of St Giles, Wrexham n.d. Stained Glass Window Guide. By Dr Malcolm Seaborne 1998


Books, booklets and papers

The foot of the tower, October 2025

The foot of the tower, October 2025

Ebsworth, David 2023. Wrexham Revealed: A Walking Tour with Tales of the City’s History. Carreg Gwalch

Evans, D.H. 2008.  Valle Crucis Abbey.  Cadw

Farmer, David 2011 (5th edition). The Oxford Dictionary of Saints. Oxford University Press

Hubbard, Edward 1986. The Buildings of Wales.  Clwyd (Denbighshire and Flintshire). Penguin Books / University of Wales, p.297-302

Palmer, Alfred, N. 1893. A History of the Town of Wrexham.  Woodall, Minshall, and Thomas.
https://archive.org/details/historyoftownofw0000palm

Phillips, John Rowland 1874. Memoirs of the Civil War in Wales and the Marches, 1642-1649, vol 1.  Longman, Green and Co.
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=U28LAAAAYAAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false

Pratt, D., 1997. The Dissolution of Valle Crucis Abbey.  Bridge Books

Price, G. Vernon 1952. Valle Crucis Abbey. The Brython Press

Suggett, Richard with Anthony J. Parkinson and Jane Rutherfoord 2021. Painted Temples.  Wallpaintings and Rood-screens in Welsh Churches, 1200-1800.  RCHAMW. (Dual language, English and Welsh)

de Voraigne, Jacobus 1993 (with an introduction by Eamon Duffy 2012) . The Golden Legend. Readings on the Saints. Translated by William Granger Ryan. Princeton University Press

Williams, D.H., 1984. The Welsh Cistercians. Cyhoeddiadau Sistersiaidd

Williams, W. Alister 2001, revised 2010. The Encyclopaedia of Wrexham. Bridge Books

Williams, W. Alister 2018.  The Parish Church of St Giles, Wrexham. Published by the Parish Church of St Giles, Wrexham.  The best place to find all the most useful information in one place, with an excellent 41-feature annotated map on the back for those wishing to do a self-guided walk. Available to purchase in the shop at the church
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Websites

Cadw
DE158 – Wrexham Churchyard Ornamental Wrought Iron Gates and Screen 
https://cadwpublic-api.azurewebsites.net/reports/sam/FullReport?lang=en&id=309

The Church in Wales
Angel festival for Covid victims attracts thousands. 13th January 2022
https://www.churchinwales.org.uk/en/news-and-events/angel-festival-for-covid-victims-attracts-thousands/

Civic Heritage
Wrexham Gateway, Wrexham. Archaeological Desk-based Assessment. July 2025
https://spawforths.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/Archaeological-Assessment-Compressed.pdf

Clwyd Powys Archaeological Trust / Heneb
Wrexham Churches Survey: Church of St Giles , Wrexham
https://heneb.org.uk/archive/cpat/Archive/churches/wrexham/106012.htm

Heneb
Clwyd Powys Archaeological Trust – Historic Settlement Survey – Wrexham County Borough
https://heneb.org.uk/archive/cpat/ycom/wrexham/wrexham.pdf
Wrexham Churches Survey – Church of St Giles, Wrexham
https://heneb.org.uk/archive/cpat/Archive/churches/wrexham/106012.htm

Historic England
Sundial, Approximately 2 Metres West of Tower of Church of St Giles
https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1116496

historypoints.org
St Giles’ Church, Wrexham – audio file recording the bells
https://historypoints.org/index.php?page=st-giles-church-wrexham

Howard Williams Blog – ArchaeoDeath
Where can you visit Wat’s Dyke in Wrexham?
https://howardwilliamsblog.wordpress.com/2019/01/03/where-can-you-visit-wats-dyke-in-wrexham/

National Archives Currency Converter
https://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/currency-converter/

Public Statue and Sculpture Association
Louis-François Roubiliac (1702–1762)
https://pssauk.org/public-sculpture-of-britain/biography/roubiliac-louis-francois/

Stained Glass in Wales (University of Wales)
Church of St Giles, Wrexham / Wrecsam
https://catalogue.stainedglass.wales/site/103

Welsh Government
Wrexham Town Centre Conservation Area Character Assessment and Management Plan. 2009
https://www.wrexham.gov.uk/sites/default/files/2023-04/wrexham-town-centre-cons-area-assessment.pdf 
Press release: Historic Church of St Giles nears end of essential conservation works. 8th August 2025
https://www.gov.wales/historic-church-st-giles-nears-end-essential-conservation-works

Wrexham’s Year of Wonder 1876 – 2026
https://wrecsam1876.co.uk/

Wrexham.com
Views of 1970s Wrexham From Top of St Giles Tower (most usefully including photos of the Wrexham-Ellesmere railway line that ran just under St Giles until sometime after the railway closed in the early 1980s)
https://wrexham.com/news/view-of-1970s-wrexham-from-top-of-st-giles-tower-100315.html

Wrexham Heritage Trail
Home Page
https://reesjeweller.co.uk/heritage/index.html
Map
https://reesjeweller.co.uk/heritage/mapsmall.html
Town Hill
https://reesjeweller.co.uk/heritage/town_hill.html
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One of the carved crosses in the north aisle

One of the carved crosses in the north aisle

Reredos in the north aisle chapel

Reredos in the north aisle chapel showing the 12 apostles

 

Big Garden Birdwatch 23rd- 26th January 2026

Blue Tit on a rose bush in my garden, January 2026

I have been doing the RSPB Big Garden Gardenwatch for about 10 years, but it has been going since 1979, collecting the same data each year so that the analysis of birds can be sensitive to time as well as geography, charting alterations in bird populations throughout the UK.  These changes can be considerable.  As climate change impacts both regional and highly localized environments, the distribution and numbers of different animal and plant species alter accordingly.  Overall the UK has lost 38 million birds in the last 60 years, and although House Sparrows were the “most spotted” bird during 2025, comparing actual numbers with previous years shows that this figure is down 64% since 1979. This means that House Sparrows are now on the red list, which is the highest level of conservation concern.

Most spotted in 2025

Most spotted in 2025, from the current Birdwatch webpage

You can enter your results online or by post, making it very easy to participate.  Instructions for participating are at the Big Garden Birdwatch page here, but it’s a simple task. On either 23rd, 24th or 25th January simply select a convenient hour to do some birdwatching in your garden, local park or wherever you settle yourself down.  The idea is to count only the maximum birds you see at any one time in that hour, and only those that land, not birds flying overhead.  You can download the bird identification sheet in English or Welsh here.


I’ve always vaguely wondered  why the survey is done in the winter, when we would all rather be tucked up indoors, but the answer makes a lot of sense:

Because that’s the time of the year garden birds need us most – if it’s really cold, it’s likely more birds will come into our gardens looking for shelter and food. This makes is easier to count the birds. Because the Birdwatch takes place at the same time every year, we can look back through the years to see if anything has changed.

I will be doing mine from the nice, safe warmth of the kitchen, from where I can watch the bird-feeders and the birdbath without suffering from hypothermia!

Most of the birds taking advantages of the bird feeders are small – blue tits, great tits, sparrows, the occasional dunnock, a few long-tailed tits, and quite a few very shy chaffinches.  It is impressive how the sparrows and chaffinches are so at home on the bird feeders, not as gymnastic as the tits, but perfectly happy perching on the outer cage.  Black birds and collared doves, and even some of the local community of jackdaws and the occasional magpie scavenge underneath the feeders because the small birds are all messy eaters and drop a lot.

Unexpectedly, a couple of weeks ago I was in the kitchen making a coffee and looked out of the window to see a Great Spotted Woodpecker, at first hanging nearly upside down on one of the bird-feeders but making a really good job of arching its neck around to get at the mixed sunflower hearts, dried mealworms, suet pellets and peanuts, before it adjusted itself into a more convenient upright position.  Gorgeous.  It has been back several times since, always on the bird feeder furthest from the house.  It answers the very puzzling question of why the bird feeder at the far end is always emptied much more quickly than the others, as the small birds don’t seem to mind where they feed.  I could never have imagined a more efficient vacuuming operation. I’ve heard it in my neighbour’s garden throughout the summer, tapping away at a tree, but only had fleeting glimpses of it.

Most of my birdfeeders are like the one in the above woodpecker photo, but I have had great success with some very ugly ones that stick to windows with suckers, particularly with the robins and sparrows.  I take all the bird feeders down during the course of early spring, one at a time, so that my winter visitors return to fending for themselves, passing on their natural foraging skills to their young, so on the whole I don’t mind a bit of ugliness over the winter.  The window feeders supply the birds that don’t do well on the hanging feeders, particularly robins and sparrows, but the tits and finches also enjoy them.  A more surprising visitor is a single starling, which simply cannot get the knack of the hanging feeders.  I have never seen starlings in the garden before.  It is almost impossible to take a good photograph of anything in the window feeders, thanks to the suckers and the general mess that the birds somehow manage to make, but here’s my  visitor, taking up all of the available space.

Exhibition: The light and bright “Print International” at Tŷ Pawb, Wrexham

Currently on display in Wrexham’s Tŷ Pawb art venue is the Print International exhibition that ends on 24th January. Print is not something that I know anything about.  Combining art and craft in a creative marriage of aesthetic refinement and technical skills, it has always seemed even more out of reach, physically as well as conceptually, than the more direct relationship between the artist and her/his brush and pencil on paper.  All the teaching in traditional art history that I received back in the Jurassic seems to have left me more than somewhat ill-equipped to assess what print is all about.  All the more reason to go and see a selection of different techniques and a variety of aesthetic concepts and approaches in a single exhibition.

The gallery at Tŷ Pawb has been organized beautifully to display all the pieces to advantage, open and light-filled.  Whether you are very familiar with print as a medium, or a complete novice like me, the Print International exhibition offers the opportunity to engage with an enjoyable and appealing series of bright, light, clean, art works, happily counteracting some of the more greyscale and muddy aspects of winter’s usual offering.

Andrew Wilson. Broken Clock. Copper photogravure

The exhibition was not about explaining print as an art form.  The information boards described the different workshops and artists represented (see list at end), but chose to let the art works speak for themselves, which allows the viewer to assess each piece on its own visual merits, but does not help to demystify how the effects were achieved or why print may be just as powerful as a medium of expression as the more traditional and conventional forms of artistic output.  Divorcing print from other types of artistic medium, however, concentrates the mind wonderfully on what this medium has to offer.

As the Wrexham-Chester area tips more firmly into winter, what was striking was how light-filled and bright the exhibition was, the perfect anecdote to seasonal murk and mire.  It was the lightness of touch that struck me most in the prints on display, including the careful colouring, delicate and gentle in one corner of the room, bold planes of attention-grabbing colour in another, with plenty of stark and arresting monochrome to balance the brighter, lighter shades.  Multiple textures were also on display, with flat surfaces of colour, heavy linearity, spidery filigree, tactile surfaces and subtle washes.  Topics included the representational, pure pattern and pure abstract, and every combination in between. Very attractive experiments were made with text as an art form, as well as more conventional text- and icon-based posters.  If you are familiar with printing techniques, there are plenty of different approaches of these on display too.

The photos below were taken on my smartphone, so are a bit feeble (it and I don’t seem to have a particularly empathetic relationship), and the reflections don’t do them many favours with my shadowy image in some of them, but hopefully give a sense of what’s on show.  See more, with different prints from those below shown, on the Tŷ Pawb website, which also has details of opening times etc.

Martine Baldwin. Shelter. Woodcut

Paul Hogg. City. Screenprint

Tara Dean. New Growth (top) and From Here (bottom). Screenprint

Thomas Gravemaker. Typographic Posters. Letterpress

Michelle Woodward. Erddig. Lino print

Inga Eicaite. B-04. Etching

 

Matt Martin. Get Thee Behind Me Satan. Screen print and mixed media

Lee Nutland. Skeletons I, Pentre Ifan. Copper photogravure

Nicola Scott. A touch of Eva n3a. Callagraph with watercolour

David Armes. Between Sun Turns. Letterpress

Aafke Metens. Deidad. Risograph

Snowy fields, copses and lanes between Churton and Aldford

This is a pretty-pics post.  It was a beautiful sunny January day today, after quite a lot of snowfall overnight.  My garden was smothered in snow, and the car was fully shrouded.  Even so, the sunshine was very warm and it was beginning to melt when I left the house at something past 11am, heading for Aldford and returning via the Roman Road (marked on the map at the end as Churton by Aldford FP9), making a good circuit.  The views across the snow-covered fields to the hills to the east and west were lovely, but as always on these snowy walks, sometimes it is the close-up detail that is most lovely.

There is a map showing the route at the end. The whole walk, there and back, takes about an hour and a half, perhaps two hours if you are strolling rather than keeping up a brisk pace.  To see what much of the same walk looked like in April 2021, here’s the earlier post.  For those who like to include a destination on their walks, Churton has the attractive White Horse public house, and Aldford has the larger and venerable Grosvenor Arms.  Both do good food and are warm and comfortable.

If you are interested in the Roman road, it is marked as Churton By Aldford FP9 on the map at the end, along the blue arrow return section of the walk, and I have posted about the road and the walk along the road, in two parts, starting here.

View over the fields to Beeston Crag and the medieval castle

The Welsh foothills

The Welsh foothills

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Grosvenor Arms, Aldford

The first section of Roman road

A much clearer section of the Roman road, well used by farm traffic

The route taken from Churton to Aldford (red arrows) and back (blue arrows). The red dot marks the Grosvenor Public House, and the blue dot marks the White Horse. Source of map: Cheshire West and Chester Public Map Viewer.

 

An enjoyable visit to the Williamson Art Gallery and Museum, Birkenhead

Williamson Art Gallery, Birkenhead

The Williamson Art Gallery in Birkenhead. Source: Wikimedia Commons

A traditional art gallery and museum in Birkenhead seems unexpected, but when the Williamson Art Gallery and Museum opened in 1928, Birkenhead had not yet fallen into the decline that eventually followed the 19th century economic industrial expansion created by the ship building industry.  The gallery was funded by philanthropists John Williamson and his son Patrick Williamson. John Williamson was a shop owner and merchant who became a director of Cunard when it formed as a public company, serving until 1902.  He was also on the board of Standard Marine Insurance and served on the Merseyside Docks and Harbours Board. His son does not appear to have had a career but co-operated with his father on philanthropic activities.  The museum’s design is a simple brick-built square, with a prominent facade that references Classical features.  The steps dominate in the above photo, but there is a ramp at the side for easy access.  The gallery is all on one floor, so this too provides ease of access.

Nicholas Eames, The Dancer (1983)

Nicholas Eames, The Dancer (1983) with two textile works by Anna Sutton behind it

I visited with my friend Julian in December 2025.  We drove guided by the SatNav, which was needed as the Williamson is surrounded by something of a residential rabbit warren (with some very attractive Victorian terracing if you keep an eye open).  There is a free car park on Mather Road that had plenty of spaces.  Full visiting details, both for drivers and those using public transport, are at https://williamsonartgallery.org/visit/.  Apologies for the quality of the photos inside the gallery, taken on my smartphone.  As always in galleries there is reflection from protective glass in many of the photos, but hopefully they will give a good idea of the exhibits.

The gallery is all on a single storey, arranged in a square of linked galleries around what is now the café (with artworks on the walls) and a sculpture garden.  A pre-visit inspection of the site plan indicated that around half of it is used for permanent collections, whilst the rest is home to temporary exhibitions.  The twin focal points are, in the main, 19th and early 20th century and modern, including furnishings, ceramics, paintings, textiles, sculptures and, on this occasion, a modern video installation.  The inclusion of temporary exhibitions is probably very attractive to local people who have reason to visit on repeat occasions.

The first of the galleries that we visited was a temporary exhibition showing the results of the 31st exhibition of the annual Trinity Buoy Wharf Drawing Prize (2025).  The exhibition “celebrates the role and value of drawing with creative practice and provides a forum to test, evaluate and share current drawing practice.”   There is a wide variety of styles and subjects along a continuum from representational to abstract.   The skill on display was impressive, and some of the pieces were visually stunning.  The mainly monochrome entries drew attention to different combinations of line and texture, with the analytical, humorous and occasionally alarming all demonstrating the versatility of the medium.

For me, the highlight of the permanent collection was the Maritime room, which is filled with models of ships built locally, as well as the actual fittings from some of the ships depicted by the models.  A model of the Birkenhead Docks is really evocative of the size and scale of the operation (shown at the end of the post).  The models of Mersey ferries are truly splendid, including a deliciously curvaceous Art Deco-flavoured example.  It was a genuine delight to see a model of the S.S. Mauretania, as well as objects that furnished her, because my grandad was quartermaster and helmsman on the ship.  It turns out that my friend Julian’s grandfather was a marine engineer, so there was a particular sense of connection for both of us with these beautifully crafted insights into Birkenhead and Mersey shipping. The whole room is redolent of local maritime history.  Given that the Liverpool Maritime Museum is disappointingly closed indefinitely whilst funding is being sought, this gallery in the Williamson offers the best available local insight into Mersey shipbuilding and shipping.

Models of some of the Mersey ferries

Models of some of the Mersey ferries

The ship's bell from the Mauretania

The ship’s bell from the Mauretania

Side lever paddle steam engine

Side lever paddle steam engine, representing an engine of about 1840

Birkenhead Corporation Ferries poster

Birkenhead Corporation Ferries poster

 

The C.S.S. Alabama, built Camell Laird’s shipyard, in theoretical violation of official Government neutrality in the American Civil War, is represented at the Williamson by both an oil painting and a model (the latter shown at the very end of this post).

Oil painting of the CSS Alabama by Samuel Walters (1811-1882)

Oil painting of the CSS Alabama by Samuel Walters (1811-1882), painted after 1862

 

Piece of furniture from Arrowe park.

Piece of furniture, a sideboard, from Arrowe park. None of the Arrowe Park furniture can be ascribed to a particular carver or workshop.  Diana is at centre, possibly an earlier French panel.  The cupid-like boys flanking her represent food and drink.

Entirely in step with this growth of maritime industry and the rise of commerce, was Arrowe Hall.  The name is now associated with as a hospital, it was originally built in 1935 for John Ralph Nicholson Shaw, who inherited Arrowe Park from his uncle John Shaw, Liverpool Mayor and slave trader.    A small gallery is devoted to reconstructing one of the Arrowe Hall rooms, with some truly astonishing, beautifully crafted, enormous and aesthetically rather appalling pieces of furniture and ornamentation, a mish-mash of medieval, Tudor and Jacobean styles executed with enthusiastic Victorian panache.  The information board says that most of the pieces of furniture date to the 1880s, but were carved with earlier dates:  “This deceit, and staining the oak very dark, was meant to give the owner a heritage and respectability that they didn’t really have.”  The detail in the fireplace overmantel below shows considerable skill imitating earlier Renaissance style friezes. At the time of writing, the house is now a home for adults with learning difficulties.

 


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Pieces from the Della Robbia Pottery, Birkenhead

Pieces from the Della Robbia Pottery, Birkenhead

Similarly, the Della Robbia Pottery room is bound to split aesthetic opinion.  Della Robbia Pottery, taking the name from Luca Della Robbia (1400-1481), and on whose style it is loosely based, was a remarkably successful Birkenhead enterprise for a short period of time between 1894 and 1906.  It was established by Harold Rathbone (1858-1929), who worked with professional designers but also hired young people locally who he trained up.  It is lavish, ornate, brightly coloured, glossy, often with multiple textures and sculptural components.  Rathbone strained at the Slade School of Art and became a pupil of Ford Madox Brown, and the influence of the Pre-Raphaelites is clear in many of his pieces.  Many of the themes of pieces produced by the pottery feature angels, cupids and mythological figures, as well as elaborate and complex patterns.

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Another small room focuses on ceramics that were either made and used in Merseyside or were imports, brought back to the Mersey docks from the far east to meet the demand of local consumers.  Chinese ceramicists cottoned on very quickly to the types of decorative themes that were popular in the west, and produced specific types of design, including specific types of shape, for the European market. The mix is diverse, but there are one or two pieces that directly reference the maritime.  The influence of Chinese ceramics is very clear, made either locally or imported, in some of the examples, but there are more localized themes as well.  There were seven different sites in Liverpool that were making porcelain, all operating between the mid and late 1700s.  Unfortunately, none of the factories used manufacturing marks so it is difficult to determine which factory produced which pieces.

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Maria Prymachenko - Autumn is Riding on Horeseback

Maria Prymachenko – Autumn is Riding on Horeseback

Paintings by Ukrainian children, produced since the start of the war, from the Sunflower Dreams Project were on display during our visit, alongside paintings by Maria Prymachenko.  The exhibitions produced by Sunflower Dreams are displayed in Britain, North America and Europe.  Although the Sunflower Dreams Project exhibition at the Williamson ended in December 2025, at the time of writing you can still find full details about the project, with samples of the paintings produced by this admirable initiative on https://sunflowerdreamsproject.org/.  Maria Prymachenko (1909-1977) specialized in Ukrainian folklore and was awarded a gold medal at the World Exhibition in Paris in 1937 for her wonderful, brightly imagined paintings.  She was largely forgotten after the Second World War, but there was a resurgence of interest in her work in the 1960s and she is now featured in a number of international museums.

Philip Wilson Steer. A Girl at her Toilet, 1892-3

Philip Wilson Steer. A Girl at her Toilet, 1892-3

The painting collection on display during our visit strongly featured the landscape and seascape artist Philip Wilson Steer (1860-1942), who was born in Birkenhead, although grew up elsewhere.  He had spent time in Paris and was strongly influenced by the Impressionists and other contemporary artists.  In his A Girl at Her Toilet of 1992-3, the theme of women engaging in personal behind-the-doors activities, so popular with Impressionist painters, is given a more dramatic overlay of contrasting colours, clearly inspired by Éduard Manet.  the label says that the “intimate or even voyeuristic” tone of his painting was “ridiculed by English critics partly for the perceived indecency of his choices of subject matter.”  By complete contrast, his Seascape off Walmer of 1930 was painted as he began to lose his eyesight, retaining only peripheral vision by 1935 when he moved almost completely over to watercolour. The entire composition is made up of thin washes of pale blue that create a delicate, almost abstract seascape with a single small boat in the distance, creating the only sense of depth.

Seascale off Walmer, 1930 by Philip Wilson Steer, 1860-1942

Seascale off Walmer, 1930 by Philip Wilson Steer, 1860-1942

There were a set of paintings by Albert Richards (1919-1945), who has the sad distinction of being the youngest official War Artist to be killed in action in the Second World War, just two months before VE Day when the jeep in which he was travelling ran over a landmine.  He was born in Liverpool but moved to Wallasey when young, training at the Wallasey School of Art.

Albert Richards - Della c.1938

Albert Richards – Della, c.1938. Painted when the artist was attending Wallasey School of Art. Gouache on paper.

Many of the other paintings on display by other artists from the period, both watercolours and oils, are obviously influenced by more accomplished Impressionist and Post-Impressionist works, but are interesting  as examples of how local artists were influenced by the latest trends.

Temporary installation - Di Mainstone's "Subterranean Elevator"

Temporary installation – Di Mainstone’s “Subterranean Elevator,” which shows continually throughout the day. On until the end of January.

Because at least half of the Williamson is dedicated to temporary collections, a lot of the paintings are in storage.  None of the better known examples from the permanent collection were on display when we visited, including the glorious watercolour of Brunel’s S.S. Great Eastern beached on the Mersey for repair work by William Gawin Herdman in 1863 and the Joseph Mallord William Turner’s dramatic watercolour Vesuvius Angry, both of which I was really hoping to see.  I checked with the information desk after our visit, but the consensus was that they were both in storage.  The comprehensive and very nicely presented online catalogue shows what the Williamson holds, but it does not indicate what is or is not on display.
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Charles Eyes 1767 Liverpool and Birkenhead

Liverpool and Birkenhead, attributed to Charles Eyes 1767, showing Birkenhead Manor and Priory. This photo is taken from the Williamson’s online catalogue at https://williamsonartgallery.org/item/1580053/

The café, with more paintings on the walls was producing some very good-looking meals and bakes, and the coffee was excellent.  One of the paintings was a very evocative one of pre-industrial Birkenhead showing the manor and the ruined priory, the sister paining of one in Liverpool’s Walker Art Gallery.  I couldn’t get to it without trampling some diners underfoot, so the picture to the right is taken from the online catalogue. There is also a small shop area with books against one wall, and a few postcards.  The sculpture garden, which can be reached from the café, looks interesting, but it was pouring with rain, so we abstained.

The Williamson represents Birkenhead and the Mersey, both past and present. The policy of the gallery is to mix its core collection of 19th and early 20th century art and decorative arts, with temporary exhibitions, often featuring contemporary works, and it is well worth keeping an eye on what their temporary exhibitions offer, either by checking the Williamson website or signing up to the email newsletter.

 

Frozen Fabric: Spectrum by Anna Sutton 1983

Frozen Fabric: Spectrum 1983 by Anna Sutton OBE (b.1935), British textile artist and designer. In this example she transforms a simple weave into a sculptural object, “merging textile traditions with minimalist abstraction.”

17th century Japanese temple bell, in the Arrowe Hall room.

17th century Japanese temple bell, in the Arrowe Hall room. If it ever goes missing, you will know where to look!

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