Category Archives: Scenery

Plas Newydd in Llangollen #6 – The wood carvings

Plas Newydd. RCAHMW

Plas Newydd showing the exterior wood carvings with the porch, scene of the porch-warming party, at centre; and the canopies and carvings around the gothic-styled windows. Source: RCAHMW

 

Introduction

Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Sarah Ponsonby moved into an unassuming Welsh cottage on a hill a short distance from the centre of Llangollen in 1780, having abandoned their respective homes in Ireland to find a new life free from family pressures.  They soon began to transform the cottage and its gardens, and in the early 1800s added an extravagant porch and matching window canopies outside, composed of ornamental wood carvings.  This continued in the interior, where walls, doors, lintels and patches of ceiling, and even stair bannisters and stair treads, were covered with ornamental wooden panels.  The majority of the carvings date to the 17th century and display all the exuberance that characterize the decorative arts of that period.  In 1876, four decades after the deaths of the ladies in 1829 and 1831, the house was purchased by General John Yorke who not only maintained the house, but added a new wing and continued to develop the cottage along the lines envisioned by the ladies.  Although the new wing was demolished due to dry rot, his additions to the cottage survive, primarily the Oak Room where the kitchen had been located and which became a richly decorated drawing room.  Subsequent owners also made changes, but preserved the wood carvings and other decorative features in the original cottage.

Th entrance hall, looking through to the Oak Room

The sheer amount of ornamental carving used as wall coverings in a chaotic patchwork throughout the place is remarkable.  Although it is nearly all unprovenanced, it is an extraordinary survival of period pieces, having escaped woodworm, damp or dry rot, and it is beyond fortunate that a series of owners continued to appreciate and care for this very rare resource.

This post is the 6th in a series about Plas Newydd and looks only at the wood carvings at the house.  It follows on from five other posts about Plas Newydd.

Part 1: The introduction to Plas Newydd, introducing Lady Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby and their lives, tracing what happened to Plas Newydd following the death of Sarah in 1831, and how General John Yorke purchased the house in 1876 and continued to build on the ideas of the two ladies.
Part 2 talks about the patchworks of stained glass at Plas Newydd
Part 3 discusses the Delftware tiles, gilt leather wall hangings and intricate moulded ceilings
Part 4 focuses on the Gorsedd circle in the garden of Plas Newydd, and the Eisteddfod of 1907-8
Part 5 is a short piece looking at the possible links, in material terms, between Brynkinalt and Plas Newydd

 

Twin amphisbaena (mythical creatures with a head at each end)

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Lady Eleanor’s journal and various letters describe how the ladies pursued their new obsession with enthusiasm in a period of changing tastes.  This sort of elaborate carving at Plas Newydd, often showing scantily clad figures and strange creatures, was thought to be antithetical to the newly celebrated neoclassical style.  Much of the now unfashionable furniture and wainscotting (panelling) was stripped out and lost forever.  The remarkable collection, assembled in the years prior to around 1814, preceded the revival of interest in what Philip Larkin called “the Jacobethan” by some years, meaning that the cost of salvaged wood from the period was probably still comparatively low.  The result is somewhat astonishing and the sheer quantity can be baffling.  It is a real patchwork with pieces from many different sources, most of them unrelated, all jammed together to form a single new identity.  It will not be to everyone’s taste but I find it irresistible.

Many of the carvings consist of deconstructed furniture – chair backs, bedsteads, bed posts, cupboard sides, table legs, church chests and pews, roof bosses canopies and more, as well as original pieces of wainscotting, all reassembled into a brand new customized kaleidoscope decorative arts.  A local carpenter was employed to fix the assembled panels to the walls, stairs and ceilings.  Most of it was carved in oak, the most popular material of the Jacobean period when most of these pieces were probably crafted.  It is probable that some Victorian imitations were also thrown in for good measure by General Yorke, suggested by inferior carving in lighter wood that was often associated with the leather wall coverings that he installed, but these too contribute to the sense of a grand medley of different themes, styles and textures.

Background:  Historic carved wood and the grotesque

The unpublished 2001 analysis of the carved wood at Plas Newydd by specialist David Bostwick is available to view at Plas Newydd in a file of useful material in the room known as the library.  It is not yet available online but has been summarized on the Early Tourists in Wales website on the Plas Newydd Wood Carving page by the website’s owner Michael Freeman.  David Bostwick dates the majority of the carvings to the 17th century, corresponding to the late Tudor and Stuart reigns, but he also found examples of earlier 15th and 16th century carvings as well as 19th century pieces that were mainly used to frame older work.  The only period apparently completely unrepresented by the carvings is the 18th century.  The main material used was oak although there is a very small minority of other woods employed.  Two items composed of inlay were also identified. Bostwick’s assessment was that although some pieces were made by skilled craftsmen, others were the mass-produced output of inferior workshops.  Unsurprisingly, he commented that there were clearly multiple sources for most the carvings, although he was able to identify that a small number of pieces had been produced by a single unidentified workshop.

Grotesque composition 1500-1512

Grotesque composition c.1500-1512. V&A Museum no. E.180-1885. Source: Wikimedia

In spite of the eclectic mix of dates and sources, there is a cohesion to the entire collection, that it might be expected to lack given its blatantly patchwork quality.  It coalesces around what has become known as the “grotesque,” a term referring to an artistic style that emanated from Italy and the discovery in 1485 of the Roman paintings in the Domus Aurea (golden palace) in Rome itself, lost after Nero’s suicide and subsequently built over by Trajan’s bath-house.  The 15th century term “grottesca” (plural grotteschi) derived from the idea that the Domus was “grotto-esque” due to the cave-like conditions in which it was found, and the term “grotesque” has since been used retrospectively to refer to any form of art, whether carved, moulded, painted, stitched or otherwise, that focuses on subjects that are in some ways fantastic or exotic, sometimes fearsome, sometimes funny, frequently bizarre and always imaginative.

This popular new style arrived in England particularly via prints from the Flemish lowlands and fused with the earlier but still ever-present Gothic grotesque, developing in secular rather than ecclesiastical contexts, helping country home owners to express their status and sense of their own achievements and grandeur.

It is intriguing how these two strands, the Italian grotesque and the Gothic, carried through so strongly into Elizabethan and Jacobean Britain, and how a lot of these themes dispersed into rural areas and were re-interpreted in vernacular terms, with new and distinctive styles emerging.  It is this fusing of grotesque traditions in the 17th century, re-interpreted with regional inflections, that found its way in such profusion into Plas Newydd.  Whilst by no means all of the Plas Newydd carvings fall into the category of the grotesque, they are conspicuous throughout the house.  At the same time, as the new styles spread throughout England and Wales, Classical motifs were re-interpreted in a vernacular style, with a panache that would undoubtedly have startled the Romans.

The examples at Plas Newydd represent most of the full range of various shapes, themes and subjects produced in the Jacobean period, and include  a wide panoply of characters that were much-loved in medieval imagery and survived well into the Jacobean period, including dragons and wyverns, wildmen, Green men, mythological and fantastical beings, as well as Old Testament, Christian and Chivalric topics.

Caryatid carvingThe Jacobean had its own sell-by date, and as the Baroque, Roccocco and Neoclassical styles replaced it, the darkness of oak panelling and furnishings, and the dominance of ornamental carvings that featured on every available architectural feature and item of furniture seemed clunky, ungainly and and over-ornate.  A new craving for elegance and light saw churches and manor houses being stripped of their wood and reinvented in the new fashionable, lighter styles. This stripping of religious and secular buildings continued well into the Georgian and Victorian periods, and some collectors took advantage of the intermittent availability of this suddenly unfashionable decorative artwork.  It is of course best when a building survives in tact with all of its architectural and decorative features in situ, but it is also a treat when a museum or private collection preserves the decorative artwork of the 17th century.  Plas Newydd is a superb example of an ex situ home for late Elizabethan, Jacobean, and both derivative and similar styles of decorative arts.

Lady Eleanor and Miss Ponsonby seem to have had a really good feel for just that continuum of the bizarre, the humorous, the striking and the fantastic, without being too fussed about either time period or provenance, and a great many carvings that fit within the broad definition of the grotesque are to be found at Plas Newydd, and their lead was followed most capably by General John Yorke.

The Plas Newydd Carvings

Installation of the Plas Newydd Carvings

A number of documents indicate that the collection of the carved wood began sometime in the first decade of the 1800s, when Elizabeth Mavor reports that Sarah had written that their collecting had become a “mania.”  The work, both inside and out, required that the ladies temporarily move all their furniture and other possessions from the ground floor to the upper storeys.  This implies that they had been accumulating the carved wood for some time and had it installed in one hit.  It  must have been chaos!

The squirrel carving at the base of the bannister

The squirrel carving at the base of the bannister

Mavor refers to an October 1814 porch-warming party to celebrate every installation of the carving-rich porch as this was the last major piece of the work that they envisaged.  In August 1816 Lady Maria Josepha Stanley wrote in a letter that “[t]he entrance to the cottage, a Gothic porch, the inner entrance, staircase and kitchen are just fitted up with old carvings of wood.”  In the same year 1816 Captain Henry Hanmer and his wife Sarah described that as well as the staircase and banisters indoors and the carvings around the door outside, the windows had also been done by this time.  That the ladies continued to collect after this date is suggested by references in Eleanor’s journal where she reports on pieces of carving being presented for consideration by various tradesmen in the region.

Both internal and external woodwork was varnished, and the exterior woodwork seems to have been given particularly thick layers of black paint both for decorative reasons and, presumably, to protect it from the Welsh weather.

Plas Newydd exterior today

Plas Newydd exterior today

More chaos must have ensued when General Yorke moved in, built a new wing and remodelled some of the original cottage, including replacing the kitchen with a drawing room called the Oak Room, and adding more carving as well as 17th century leather wall hangings.  In so far as the indoor carvings are concerned, although it is clear that the ladies installed most of the carvings, sometimes it is impossible to know for sure where the installations of the ladies ends and those of the General begins, except for the obvious case of the Oak Room.  The General had a major impact on the exterior, adding the decorative themes to the exterior walls and many of the motifs at the west end of the building.

What motivated the collection of woodwork chosen for Plas Newydd?

Gothic style lancet-shaped windows at Plas Newydd

Gothic style lancet-shaped windows at Plas Newydd

When tourist Anna Lister met Lady Eleanor at Plas Newydd in Tuesday 23 July in 1822 Eleanor told her that “it had been their humble endeavour to make their place as old as they could,” a clear statement of intent.  The ladies seem to have been attracted at first as much by the gothic as by the Jacobean, with their adoption of gothic features like lancet windows and lancet-shaped book cases and their exterior wood porch and canopies.  It was later that they began their collection of elaborately carved wood.  The tastes of the ladies were informed both by their education and by ongoing voracious reading, but there is no reason to believe that there interests were in any way confined by a preference for any one period.  The ladies were also collecting stained glass and beautiful objects, and do not seem to have been unduly influenced by the age of an architectural or artistic style, focusing instead on colour, texture and perhaps subject matter.

Bear moulding at Plas Mawr, Conwy

Bear moulding at Plas Mawr, Conwy

The ladies may have been influenced by their travels.  They had certainly encountered the Elizabethan-Jacobean style in Conwy at the 16th century Plas Mawr, then in a very poor state, when they visited on their travels before settling at Llangollen.  Plas Mawr was described by Sarah in her travel diary in 1778 (copied on the Curious Travellers website), including her comment that  “The Whole House is built & Floord (sic) with Oak.”  A carved bear at Plas Newydd closely resembles one at Plas Mawr, and there are other similarities due to the fashion for popular themes.  The ladies also saw St Deiniol’s Cathedral in Bangor, where Sarah was impressed by the “Roses &c. of Carved Wood.”  They visited Chirk Castle, the Grade-1 listed Halston Hall, built in around 1690, and Wynnstay Hall in Ruabon, part of which was built in the 16th century, although it is not clear what sort of decorative paradigms were in place at the time of the visits.

Bear carving at Plas Newydd

Bear carving at Plas Newydd

 

Brynkinalt rear aspect

Brynkinalt from the rear, showing some of the lancet windows installed in around 1808

A house with which the ladies were very familiar with was their friend Lady Dungannon’s Brynkinalt, completed in 1612.  This underwent seriously remodelling in 1808, and it seems as though this was both inside and out, with most of the earlier decorative scheme replaced by the more fashionable neoclassical, but the ladies may have seen it before the remodelling was started, and they may have been impressed by the Gothic features that were added during the remodel.  At least one small pane of stained glass at Plas Newydd  seems to have come from Brynkinalt, as an almost identical light remains in situ at the house.

Wyvern stained glass Plas Newydd

A wyvern in a stained glass patchwork at Plas Newydd, mirroring one at Brynkinalt, from where it may have been sourced

Detail of St Collen’s Church roof over the nave, Llangollen

One example that was (and remains) very close at hand, and which crosses the boundaries between the medieval period and the English and Welsh Renaissance by having much in common with both periods, is the roof of St Collen’s Church in Llangollen.  This contains a rich and fascinating mixture of religious and pagan motifs, much like the subject matter shown on Romanesque capitals and medieval misericords.  Although much of the church underwent serious modification in the Victorian period, the ladies would probably have visited it before the alterations, and would certainly have seen the roof.

Nothing really leaps out to explain why, in 1814 when Eleanor was 75 years old and Sarah 59, and 34 years after they had moved in to Plas Newydd, they were suddenly “seized” with a “mania” for collecting carved oak in the Elizabethan-Jacobean style, much of it featuring a wide variety of grotesques and fantastic creatures.  I thought that it might have something to do with purchasing the house, which they formerly rented, but that did not happen until 1819, five years after the peak of their collection “mania.”  Perhaps it was something as simple as a single first purchase that grew into a desire to source more of the same that grew into a passion for collecting.

 

Themes in the Plas Newydd carvings

All sculptural elements in the medieval period acted as symbols and emblems that could be read and understood, and by the later 16th century ornamental country house carvings and plasterwork usually formed a connected series of ideas and messages that needed to be decoded.  Although the message and themes might be relatively obvious, quite often the decoding was often deliberately enigmatic, requiring a good education, creativity and a willingness to bend the intellect towards deciphering hidden meanings.  In this sense they could be like visual riddles and acrostics. Once a collection was split up and sold off in parts, the intended message of the combined visual clues would have been lost.  The lack of context, meaning  that there is no provenance, no narrative context to explain meaning, and a complete absence of chronological integrity means that the Plas Newydd carvings cannot be understood as a coherent assemblage of meaning.  However, although the broader subtleties and grander narratives may be lost, some of the general themes can be identified.  David Bostwick picks out a list of specific items represented in the carvings.  This includes a mixture of secular and religious themes, including:

  • Human faces
  • Armorial shields
  • Birds
  • Animals
  • Flowers and other plants
  • Dragons, wyverns, amphisbaena and other mythological creatures
  • Male atlantes and female caryatids (human figures supporting architectural components)
  • Green Men
  • Symmetrical patterns
  • Ecclesiastical themes

David Bostwick observes that there are comparatively few geometric patterns, very popular in the period, with only 4  linenfold panels, although these should have been quite widely available at the time that the ladies began collecting. At Plas Newydd the 44 dragons identified by Bostwick are clear indicators that the grotesque was a major feature of the wood carving at Plas Newydd, but there are an incredible variety of other characters, including 103 atlantes and caryatids (figures supporting architectural elements). Ecclesiastical themes are mainly confined to the porch doorway, but there are others in the building, and the doorway at the west end shows religious themes.  Bostwick suggests that some of the Biblical scenes represented at Plas Newydd were Flemish imports.  This would not be at all unexpected, as a lot of art work and furniture was being imported from the Netherlands and the Lowe Countries at this time.

This suggests that the ladies made choices both in terms of the themes selected, rather than collecting whatever was available, and in the placement of their collection.

 

The quality of the carvings

Plas Newydd door with poor quality carvings

Plas Newydd door with inferior quality carvings

The quality of the carving is very variable.  In this section of the door into the spare bedroom, two botanical arrangements flank the startled looking woman in the centre.  The two botanical arrangements should in theory be identical, but the clumsiness of the execution has lead to flattened curves in the example on the left, and a failure to create a mirrored pattern. It looks like a practice exercise rather than something that would be sold to a happy customer.  Beneath the lady is a more accomplished, although still not perfect, attempt at mirroring on two sides of a central motif.

Most of the carvings come from items of furniture, and are very variable in quality, but some show great skill.  A few examples show quite complex scenes, and demonstrate the versatility of wood as a medium for expression.

As much as anything else, this great variability of skill and quality of craftsmanship demonstrates the wide variety of sources from which the carvings must have been sourced.

 

Sources for the Plas Newydd carvings

Plas NewyddThe 2001 survey by David Bostwick states that the Plas Newydd carvings were clearly sourced from multiple locations, although he detected the work of a single workshop amongst some of the pieces, suggesting that these at least came from the same place, whether that was a single building or a geographical area.  None of the sources for their carvings were recorded by the ladies or Richard Yorke themselves in the surviving documentation.  This may be because they saw no value in recording where where any of it was sourced from, seeing it as purely decorative rather than historical, but it may equally be that a separate record was maintained by each owner and that these have now been lost along with a lot of other paperwork.  Provenance is therefore a general problem with the Plas Newydd carvings, and it does not seem as though this is going to be resolved in the near future.

All of the carvings, whether installed by the ladies or General Yorke represent salvage – materials that were carved for somewhere else and have been brought here to be incorporated into an entirely new, patchwork-type arrangement.  Some of the carvings chosen for the exterior have more religious themes than in the interior, suggesting an ecclesiastical origin, whereas those in the interior look as though they were more likely to have been in secular contexts.

Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby

In some cases Eleanor’s journal provides the name of the people who supplied or offered pieces but not where the pieces themselves came from.  For example on 16th February 1819 Eleanor records that the vicar of Ruthin the Reverend Richard Newcombe sent them the gift of a “a beautiful Lion couchant carved in oak – some centuries old.”  Sir Foster Cunliffe of Acton Park (near Wrexham) provided an “old carved oak head,” mentioned on 27th February 1819.  On 12th April 1819 she wrote that “The so long expected hamper sent by Miss Dorothy Wilmot Sitwell to Liverpool was brought this morning from Chester . . . it contained fine old oak carving the most ancient & curious of all we possess.”  In none of these cases is it mentioned which locations had supplied the offerings.

An exception is the identification in the journal on 4th April 1819 in which she says that a Captain and Mrs Hanmer had sent them “some fine carvings of Gibbons from the old stalls of the Knights of the Garter in St Georges Chappel [sic].”  The owner of the Early Tourists in Wales site contacted the Archivist and Chapter Librarian of St George’s Chapel in Windsor, who informed him that an altar rail in the chapel was paid for by a Mir Gibbons in 1681 but that no other work connected with the name is known to be there.  Eleanor may have thought that the work was that of Grinling Gibbons, the famous wood carver, but there is no evidence to support this.

Several of Eleanor’s journal entries indicate that local people were aware of their interest in carved wood and contacted them to offer any examples that might interest them. There are 24 references to carvings acquired in 1819 and 4 in the 1821 journal.  As mentioned above, these are the only two journals surviving after 1807, so the record is extremely incomplete, but they do demonstrate that local people were supplying them with odds and ends: Roberts the Glazier, John Davis the Shoemaker, Roberts the Shrewsbury Gardener, Thomas Davies the Glazier, J.Gill the upholsterer, Edward the Marble Mason, and Brace the Carrier, as well as “a poor woman from Glynn.”  The ladies were obviously able to use their tradesmen’s presence in many buildings in the area to source items of interest.  The implication is that they were purchased, although Eleanor only makes this explicit once when she says that they “purchased some fine old oak carving from a woman near Corwen.” One journal entry mentions that some of their stained glass came a dealer and perhaps some of the carvings that were not supplied by visitors or local tradesmen were sourced in the same way, although no purchases are listed in the accounts so diligently kept by Sarah Ponsonby.

Two of the third party comments about sources of carvings were made whilst the ladies were still alive, and the information may or may not have been imparted by one or other of the ladies.  In 1819, for example,  Philadelphia Cotton’s Tour Through North Wales mentioned that “a large piece from Speke hall Lancashire” had been taken there by Colonel Norris “plunderer of Stirling Castle after the battle of Flodden.”  In 1827 traveller Eliza Rand recorded that she had been told that the Duchess of St Albans had provided the ladies “with a great deal of the carving.”  Neither, however mention where this information originated from or whether it had been verified in any way.  It is said that Arthur Wellesley (later the Duke of Wellington) supplied the two lions that still help to hold up the porch.

In General John Yorke’s 1882 publication Plas Newydd as it was and as it is; with A Catalogue of its contents; and a few reminiscences of Lady Eleanor Butler and the Hon Sarah Ponsonby by one who received their welcome in his younger days, he says that “All statesmen and nobles paid tribute and homage at Plas Newydd, and none ventured a second visit without bringing a contribution of carved oak which was the regular passport,” a comment that is unverified by anything that the ladies themselves wrote in the surviving journals, accounts or letters, but which has been repeated by writers ever since.  An  oak pew installed in a recess in the Oak Room was said to have been used by the ladies in Llangollen Church until it was transferred to the house.

Other items that General Yorke identifies are a portal door which he says is composed of oak from both Llangollen and Llantysilio churches, the latter also said to have provided the doorway below the west gable.  Llantysilio church did undergo the addition of a new transept in 1718, but that was a century before the ladies started collecting.  The Victorian alterations did not begin until 1869.  It is difficult to see how, unless repairs were made that lead bits of furniture or panelling to be rejected, the ladies could have acquired carvings from the church.  It was, however, conveniently local.  The claims that some of the carvings came from St Collen’s in Llangollen do not seem too far-fetched given the splendid roof carvings in the church, and the fact that the church underwent many modifications in the 19th century.  The General also identifies a number of other sources, from as far afield as London, but these are unverified.

Wherever they came from, 17th century carvings had gone out of fashion in the 18th century and it was not until the second quarter of the 19th century that the revival of what John Betjemen referred to as the “Jacobethan” became popular.  This may mean that there was only a very limited market for the type of ornately decorated carving collected by the ladies, and that this was not outrageously expensive, meaning both that they could afford to purchase locally unwanted salvage, and that it made for an inexpensive gift from others.  Much carved woodwork with family arms and motifs would be retained by families even when they upgraded their decorative schemes, and this would be less likely to be circulated, which would account for why there is so little of this at Plas Newydd.

General Yorke

General Yorke bought Plas Newydd in 1876.  Although he had mentioned various sources for carvings collected by the ladies, interestingly and disappointingly there is nothing to indicate where General Yorke himself sourced his antique purchases.  Perhaps his papers were lost or were disposed of at the time of his death.  By the time he bought the house in 1876 the trade in architectural salvage was in full swing, with the area around Oxford Street and Wardour Street in London becoming the English locus for dealing in architectural imports that could be broken down into cargo-sized components.  Italy and Germany provided some supplies, but London’s imports were mainly from France and the Low Countries, and mainly from ecclesiastical buildings.  John Harris’s work on the subject provides an eye-opening insight into the sheer scale of the trade, which soon moved beyond exporting to Britain and began to export to the United States.

General Yorke’s Oak Room in 1905. Source: People’s Collection Wales

When he arrived at Plas Newydd with many more financial resources available to him than the two ladies could have realistically dreamed of, he may have looked to a very wide network of dealers for his acquisitions.  It would certainly not be difficult for General Yorke to have made arrangements with both London and more local centres to acquire sufficient carvings, painted leather and plaster to furnish not only the remaining gaps in the cottage but also in his ambitious new wing.  His main innovation at the original cottage was the Oak Room, with its richly carved oak features and its painted and leather wall hangings, which he introduced elsewhere in the cottage as well.  Built in what was the kitchen when the ladies were alive, the oak room became both a drawing room and another display area for his collections.  An article dated to 1890 in The Builder, vol.59, suggested that in the Oak Room an elaborate chairs, which it refers to as The Confessional Throne, came from a Spanish monastery.  The article states that the second chair, almost as elaborate, was made out of an oak tree from Sulgrave in Northamptonshire.  The reference to Sulgrave in particular is very specific, but again there is nothing in the article to suggest how the its author obtained this information and whether there is any substance to it.

There remains one of many puzzles.  A reference on the Coflein website states unambiguously that part of the oak roof of St Derfel’s Church in Llandderfel was brought to Plas Newydd after a fire.  The Coflein account is quite comprehensive, fairly well cited, and seems convincing: “The oak roof was damaged by fire in 1758. A small portion of it was made into a chair, presently situated in the sanctuary, but most of it was removed to Plas Newydd, Llangollen.”  But 1758 was 22 years before the ladies arrived, so either the date is wrong, because there is no reason why the owners of the cottage would have wanted bits of a wooden roof before the arrival of the ladies, or the roof was stored elsewhere before being moved to Plas Newydd two decades later, which seems very improbable.  Alternatively, the reference to Plas Newydd was presumably incorrect.  Thoughts anyone?

Future research

Oriental carving

Oriental carving

The carvings are thoroughly enjoyable in their own right, but they also present a number of puzzles, and there is considerable potential for future research.

Although at first glance it is difficult to see that some of the items are related, some of the pieces dotted around the house are clearly parts of the same piece of furniture, which may help to consolidate carvings into batches to reduce the sense of it being an unrelated mixture of pieces.  This may help to approach the as-yet unanswered questions about which workshops and which individuals were responsible for the carvings.  David Bostwick has suggested that idiosyncrasies associated with certain workshops are visible in the style and the motifs selected.  Certain styles of distinctive motif, such as types of dragon, wyvern, amphisbaena and other dragon-like creatures, caryatids and atlantes (male caryatids), and natural animal life may belong to vernacular traditions of certain regions, which may help in this task.  Investigations of the records of local church and large nearby houses such as Brynkinalt, particularly those known to have undergone renovation or restyling in the 18th century may shed some light on some sources of more skilled pieces of carving.

The house is generally seen as a reflection of the work of Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby, but there are questions to ask around this.  General Yorke, for example, was responsible for converting the cottage kitchen into the Oak Room, and added various pieces of carved woodwork elsewhere inside and outside the house.  It is also possible that subsequent owners also had made repairs and minor changes.  The way in which Plas Newydd evolved under different owners is not well understood and it would be useful to improve this knowledge of the chronology of the house and all of its decorative arts.

 

Final comments

There are more questions than there are answers about the collection of wood panelling, pieces of furniture and panels made of furniture, as well as some of the more splendid sculptural items at Plas Newydd.

The probability is that the majority of the carvings at Plas Newydd were originally components of furniture and wainscotting, mainly from residential buildings and some ecclesiastical buildings that were either re-envisioned, stripping out old woodwork to be replaced by new ideas of interior decoration, or demolished. Most of it dates to the 17th century, but there are examples from earlier periods as well as 19th century pieces.  Wealthy country homes and churches were both contenders for providing the carvings.  Churches were often simply remodelled rather than demolished, stripped out but saved, but some of the grand country houses of the Tudor-Stuart periods required expensive maintenance and often suffered terminal neglect as owners found themselves unable to keep up with costs.  The number of late Elizabethan and Jacobean buildings that survive are few and far between, but furnishings and decorative features have experienced a better survival rate simply by virtue of their portability.  An extreme example is Emral Hall in West Cheshire, near Worthenbury, where the ballroom, complete with its marvellous ceiling, was removed just before demolition in the mid-1930s and was reinstalled in Portmeirion’s Town Hall.

Some individual pieces are quite extraordinary, harking back to ideas derived from the Italian Grotteschi and the use of grotesque motifs in the western European Romanesque and the British Gothic.  Some later pieces may have been commissioned in the 19th century in order to piece the patchwork together.  However there is almost no specific provenance for any of it, and there is no indication why, in or just before 1814, Lady Eleanor and Miss Ponsonby suddenly began to collect it.   In spite of these puzzles, it remains a splendid collection of diverse pieces featuring figurative and natural themes, fantastical animals, geometrical patterns, and the occasional line of text.  Although it makes a stunning collective impression, it is also rewards taking your time to introduce yourself to as many of the individual pieces as you have time to view.  Together with all the other decorative arts in the house, the impact is quite astonishing and very memorable.

 

 

With thanks

Early Tourists in Wales Plas Newydd

Early Tourists in Wales – The Plas Newydd Carved Wood page

With sincere thanks to Michael Freeman’s for his Plas Newydd pages on the Early Tourists in Wales website, where all the principal sources for information on Plas Newydd carvings have been collated and made accessible online, some of them not otherwise available either in published or digitized form.  I was very kindly given carte blanche to use that information in my own research into the history of Plas Newydd.  A very useful summary of DavidBostwick’s findings can be found on the Early Tourists in Wales website on the Plas Newydd Wood Carving page, which is particularly useful as Bostwick’s paper is not currently available online (although it is available to peruse as a hard copy at Plas Newydd).

 

 

 

Sources

See part 1 for a general introduction to Plas Newydd, including visiting details and a general bibliography.  The sources mentioned below are specific to this post.

Online catalogues, National Library of Wales archives and Plas Newydd on-site information

There are records at the National Library of Wales in Aberystwyth that have not yet been digitized and are therefore not available online. I have not had the chance to go to Aberystwyth in person, so these have not been consulted for this post.  Much of it has been expertly summarized on the Early Tourists in Wales website.

The 1792 catalogue of the titles in the Plas Newydd library belonging to Lady Eleanor and Miss Ponsonby includes volumes in English, French and Italian.  They also, but possibly at a later date as they are not recorded in the catalogue, owned titles in Spanish.  This is available on the National Library of Wales website at https://viewer.library.wales/6043853#?xywh=-2808%2C-244%2C9066%2C4877

The 1832 auction catalogue that sold off the portable contents of Plas Newydd following the death of Sarah Ponsonby, two years after Eleanor Butler’s own death, has been very usefully précised on the Early Tourists in Wales website at https://sublimewales.wordpress.com/attractions/mansions-and-grounds/ladies-of-llangollen/ownership/auction-catalogues-1832/

In addition, Plas Newydd has information in loose-leaf folders that can be leafed through on a visit.  As well as samples from Lady Eleanor’s journals, these include David Bostwick’s paper about the carvings.

 

Books, booklets and papers

d’Alembert, Jean Le Rond 1751. Melanges de litterature, d’histoire, et de philosophie.
https://ia802207.us.archive.org/1/items/MelangesDArcheologieDHistoireEt2/Melanges_d_archeologie_d_histoire_et_2.pdf

Andrews, John 1989. British Antique Furniture. Price Guide and Reasons for Values. Antique Collectors’ Club

Aymonino A, and M. Guerci 2016.  The Architectural Transformation of Northumberland House under the 7th Duke of Somerset and the1st Duke and Duchess of Northumberland, 1748–86. The Antiquaries Journal, p.315–361

Bebb, Richard 2007 .  Welsh Furniture 1240-1950. Volume 1. Saer Books

Bebb, Richard 2007.  Welsh Furniture 1240-1950. Volume 2. Saer Books

Brewer, J.J. 1825. The Beauties of Ireland. Being original delineations, topographical, historical, and biographical, of each county. Sherwood, Jones and Co.
https://archive.org/details/b29350505_0001/page/416/mode/2up?q=kilkenny

Ching, Francis D.K. 1995. A Visual Dictionary of Architecture. John Wiley and Sons

Chinnery, Victor 1979, 2016 (Revised Edition). Oak Furniture. The British Tradition. Antique Collectors’ Club.

Edwards, Ralph 1964. The Shorter Dictionary of English Furniture. Country Life

Fiske, John and Lisa Freeman 2005.  Living with Early Oak. The Belmont Press

Fleming, John and Hugh Honour 1989 (2nd edition). Penguin Dictionary of Decorative Arts. Viking.

Harris, John. 2007. Moving Rooms. The Trade in Architectural Salvages. Yale University Press

Hearn, Karen (ed.) 1995. Dynasties: painting in Tudor and Jacobean England, 1530-1630. Introduction, p.9-10. Rizzoli International Publications

Hopkins, Owen 2012. Reading Architecture, A Visual Lexicon. Laurence King Publishing

Hubbard, Edward and Pevsner, N. 1986. The Buildings of Wales. Clwyd (Denbighshire and Flintshire).  Penguin Books

Lupu, Mircea-Ioan 2013. Grotesque as Aesthetic Identity: From Medieval Illumination to Contemporary Art. EIRP Proceedings, Volume 8, Number 1, 2013, pp. 263-278(16)
https://www.academia.edu/46975596/Grotesque_as_Aesthetic_Identity_From_Medieval_Illumination_to_Contemporary_Art

Mavor, Elizabeth , 2011 (previously published 1971, 1979). The Ladies of Llangollen. A Study in Romantic Friendship. Moonrise Press. (Mavor does not always cite her sources for particular comments cited, attributed to the ladies and others, and often widely quoted by other authors)

Mavor, Elizabeth 1984.  Life with the Ladies of Llangollen. Viking (hardback).  N.B. This was published, word for word and page for page, image for image, in Penguin in 1986 in paperback as A Year with the Ladies of Llangollen.  Do not make my mistake of buying the same book twice just because the titles are different!
The format is rather strange, in that the books list first by month and then by year, so all the journal entries for January in any given year are listed in the first chapter, and then February and so on.  I suppose it gives a sense of how each month in a year passed, but it gives no sense of the cumulative passing of time over the lives of the ladies. 

Mowl, Timothy 1993.  Elizabethan and Jacobean Style. Phaidon Press.

Ogle, George 1737.  Antiquities explained. Being a collection of figured gems illustrated by similar descriptions taken from the classics.
https://archive.org/details/bim_eighteenth-century_antiquities-explained-b_ogle-george_1737/mode/2up

Osborne, Harold (ed.) 1970.  The Oxford Companion to Art. Clarendon Press

Osborne, Harold (ed.) 1975.  The Oxford Companion to the Decorative Arts. Clarendon Press

Squire, Michael 2012. “Fantasies so varied and bizarre”: The Domus Aurea, the Renaissance, and the “grotesque”’, in (eds.) M. Dinter and E. Buckley, The Blackwell Companion to the Age of Nero Wiley-Blackwell, p.444–464

Sinclaire, Catherine 1838.  Hill and Valley, or Hours in England and Wales, 1833 (a second edition was released in 1839).

Singleton, Esther 1907. Dutch and Flemish Furniture. The McClure Company
https://www.gutenberg.org/files/54552/54552-h/54552-h.htm

Turner, Rick 2008 (revised edition, first published 1997).  Plas Mawr, Conwy. Cadw

Wells-Cole, Anthony 1997.  Art and Decoration in Elizabethan and Jacobean England.  Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art / Yale University Press

Veysey, A. Geoffrey and David Freeman 1988.  Plas Newydd and the Ladies of Llangollen. Glyndwr District Council.  (Based on the booklet by Veysey, County Archivist for Clwyd County Council, published in 1980.  Two sections were substantially updated by Freeman in 1988 – the Oak Room and the Ladies’ Bedchamber).

Wainwright, Clive 1989. The Romantic Interior – The British Collector at Home 1750–1850. Yale Center for British Art -Studies in British Art, Yale University Press

Wither, George 1635. A collection of emblemes, ancient and moderne. London
https://archive.org/details/collectionofembl00withe/page/n11/mode/2up

Zamperini, Alessandra. 2008. Ornament and the Grotesque. Fantastical Decoration from Antiquity to Art Nouveau’, Thames and Hudson, London and New York—

Websites

Based In Churton
Grotesques and Misericords. By Andie Byrnes, various dates.  Series of posts looking at mainly medieval Grotesques and misericords in the Chester-Wrexham area, plus one example from Tong in Shropshire.
https://basedinchurton.co.uk/category/grotesques-and-misericords/

Building
From the archives: The demolition of Northumberland House, 1874. By Tom Lowe, 3rd February 2023
https://www.building.co.uk/our-history-180-years-of-building/from-the-archives-the-demolition-of-northumberland-house-1874/5121589.article

Cadw
Plas Mawr
https://cadw.gov.wales/visit/places-to-visit/plas-mawr
Rug Chapel
https://cadw.gov.wales/visit/places-to-visit/rug-chapel

Coflein
St Derfel’s Church, Llandderfel
https://coflein.gov.uk/en/site/43870
Emral Hall, Worthenbury
https://coflein.gov.uk/en/site/35805/
Town Hall, Portmeirion
https://coflein.gov.uk/en/site/407060/

Curious Travellers
Anne Lister’s diary, tour of North Wales 11-27 July 1822
https://editions.curioustravellers.ac.uk/doc/0023?ref=pe0954#footnoteref53
Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby, Account of a Journey in Wales; Perform’d in May 1778 By Two Fugitive Ladies. Edited with an introduction by Elizabeth Edwards in Curious Travellers
https://editions.curioustravellers.ac.uk/pages/show.html?document=0004.xml

Early Tourists in Wales
Plas Newydd home page
https://sublimewales.wordpress.com/attractions/mansions-and-grounds/ladies-of-llangollen/
Plas Newydd – Carved Wood
https://sublimewales.wordpress.com/attractions/mansions-and-grounds/ladies-of-llangollen/plas-newydd-the-house/plas-newydd-carved-wood/
Plas Newydd – Illustrations
https://sublimewales.wordpress.com/attractions/mansions-and-grounds/ladies-of-llangollen/plas-newydd-the-house/plas-newydd-illustrations/

English Heritage
Stokesay Castle
https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/stokesay-castle/things-to-do/

Historic England
Interior view of the Solar at Stokesay Castle, showing a fireplace with carved wooden panelling above the mantle and a table in the foreground with drawings and plans of the castle
https://historicengland.org.uk/images-books/photos/item/UXC01/01/01/0065/32

Kilkenny Castle
http://www.kilkennycastle.ie
Explore the Castle
https://www.kilkennycastle.ie/about/explore-the-castle-new/
Audio Guide
https://www.kilkennycastle.ie/audio-guide/
Visitor’s Guide leaflet
https://www.kilkennycastle.ie/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Visitors-Leaflet-English_compressed.pdf

The National Archives
The Ladies of Llangollen. By Hanna Griffiths.  Tuesday 8th February 2022
https://blog.nationalarchives.gov.uk/the-ladies-of-llangollen/

The National Library of Wales
Plasnewydd Library Catalogue 1792
https://viewer.library.wales/6043853#?xywh=-2355%2C-1%2C8159%2C4390&cv=

The Open University – UK Reading Experience Database
Lady Eleanor Butler
https://www.open.ac.uk/Arts/reading/UK/browse_reader_readings.php?s=Butler&f=Lady+Eleanor

Ornapedia Decorative Arts Glossary
https://www.ornapedia.org/glossary

The Public Domain Review
Flemish Mask Designs in the Grotesque Style (1555)
https://publicdomainreview.org/collection/flemish-mask-designs-in-the-grotesque-style-1555/

smarthistory
The rediscovery and impact of the Domus Aurea, in Smarthistory, by Jessica Mingoia, May 14, 2023
https://smarthistory.org/rediscovery-domus-aurea-renaissance-grotesque/.

Plas Newydd after 1814. Source: People’s Collection Wales

 

A lovely visit with panoramic views: the Iron Age hillfort Moel y Gaer in Rhosesmor

View from the inner rampart over the outer rampart and beyond to the distant landscape in the east

Introduction

Rhosesmor is a small village not far from Mold, which boasts an Iron Age hillfort a short walk from the village hall car park, with stunning 360° views over the surrounding hills and across the Dee estuary and beyond.

Moel y Gaer Rhosesmor by Chris Musson / CPAT.

Aerial view of Moel y Gaer Rhosesmor by Chris Musson / CPAT. Source: Internet Archaeology

It was an iffy day when I visited, weather-wise, with a lot of cloud overhead and the threat of rain, but it was possible to see for many miles all around, and is very easy to understand why this could have been a strategically valuable location.  The footpath around the top of the first, inner rampart is well worn and unimpeded, and a really lovely walk. The interior and the outer of the two banks, and both ditches, are covered with gorse, which was in flower.  There are paths through the gorse on the plateau, but it makes it difficult to see the line of the second, outer rampart, which in the Iron Age was never a complete circuit.

When I was an archaeology  undergraduate in the 1980s my parents moved from Hertfordshire to a village not far from Chester.  Whenever I returned home my favourite pastime was taking the family dog and exploring the hills in northeast Wales.  That led me to the Clwydian range and Moel y Gaer Llanbedr.  As a newbie to Wales, with no understanding of Welsh placenames, I had no idea that there were actually three Moel y Gaer hillforts in the area and more further afield so when I returned to university (and bearing in mind that there was no Internet in those days) I spent some time in the library assembling data about Moel y Gaer Rhosesmor, thinking it was Moel y Gaer Llanbedr, before the penny dropped.  Decades later I have at last got around to visiting the the Rhosesmor hillfort, and what a super site it is, with a complete panorama of diverse views. See Visiting information at the end of the post for parking details and the route from the car park to the hillfort.

The Archaeology 

The best online source of information about the hillfort is Graeme Guilbert’s page about the site on the Internet Archaeology website, part of a bigger article about the excavation of Welsh hillforts.  I recommend this, because as well as details about the site, many of which I have included below, the page has some really excellent photographs of the excavations during the 1970s and reconstructions of the two different types of roundhouse.

LiDAR view of Moel y Gaer. Source: Lock, Gary and Ralston, Ian. 2024. Atlas of Hillforts of Britain and Ireland. Available at https://hillforts.arch.ox.ac.uk

Moel y Gaer translates roughly as “the bare fort,” presumably referring to the somewhat barren moorland conditions characterizing the top of many hillforts, which accounts for why there are three of them with the same name in the area.  It is perched on the southern end of Halkyn mountain, c.300m (984ft) above the Dee floodplain.  The visible remains include two banks, both of which follow the contours of the hill.  The higher, inner bank provides a complete circuit of the hillfort, whilst the second, lower bank, divided from the inner bank by a deep ditch, never provided a complete circuit, as the LiDAR image to the left makes clear.  The most interesting and informative aspects of Moel y Gaer are, however, the structures and features that were excavated in the 1970s and are no longer visible, described briefly below.

The reservoir

The reservoir

Ironically the most clearly identifiable feature today is a rectangular reservoir, completely enclosed and covered in grass and a good perch for admiring the views.  If you sit by one of the metal inspection batches, you can hear something whirring gently below, but otherwise it is just a grassy platform with some metal-topped lids.

It is because of the reservoir that the site was excavated by Graeme Guilbert and his team in the 1970s, with the bulk of the work carried out between 1972 and 1974.  Although the development of a modern structure slapped on a prehistoric site was undoubtedly controversial, it did at least give the opportunity for archaeologists to investigate 0.6 hectares (1.4 acres) of the 2.7 hectares (6.6 acres), and the results were excellent.  It is rare that it is possible to cut a 15ft trench through a rampart, due to time and cost constraints, but this was done at Moel y Gaer, and the information about the interior, enabled by the excavation of such a large area, is now referenced in all discussions of hillfort interiors.

Sketch of the possible Neolithic structure

Sketch of the possible Neolithic structure and well as the worked flint scatter, both in red, shown in relation to the later Iron Age structures. Source: Britnell 1991, p.58

The archaeology of the hilltop begins in the earlier prehistoric period.  The earliest of these is the Neolithic, represented by worked flint and chert, including scrapers, blades and arrowheads and associated waste products.  Pottery fragments were found in shallow pits.  Most importantly, a possible rectangular structure, a very rare find, consisting of a short length of fence and a series of postholes, suggests a Neolithic settlement.

Two Early Bronze Age round barrows have been identified within the later ramparts.  One is on the highest part of the hill near the reservoir; the other was apparently levelled during the Iron Age occupation of the hill, and when excavated was found to include a burial chamber but no skeleton (probably due to the acidic conditions), and no accompanying artefacts.  Early Bronze Age barrows are common in the area, but most were left in tact.  It is a puzzle why one was retained and the other levelled.

The first phase of the hillfort itself predates the banks and ditches and may date back to the Late Bronze Age, in the 8th or 7th century BC.  A set of roundhouse structures and a palisade trench carved into the stone were found, although it is not clear if the roundhouses and the palisade (an elaborate fence) were contemporary or if the settlement was initially unenclosed.  It had a gap of 11m, indicating an entrance, although it remains unknown if this was the only entrance into the enclosure.  As Guilbert says, the size of the gap “may seem inappropriate to a purely aggressive, or even largely defensive purpose” and he suggests that the site may have been positioned as much for its visual impact as for security purposes.  In 1977 some trial trenches were opened that suggest that the palisade extended around most of the hillfort perimeter. The pre-rampart palisade is not a unique feature, and there is at least one other in the region, at Eddisbury hillfort on the mid-Cheshire Sandstone Ridge.

Phase 1 of the hillfort showing the palisade slot at left and the roundhouses, many with porches.

Phase 1 of the hillfort showing the palisade slot at left and the roundhouses, many with porches. Source: Guilbert 2018, Internet Archaeology.

Importantly in Phase 1 there were 26 roundhouses, between c.6.5m and 11.5m in diameter.  All were made of an inner and an outer ring of postholes, the inner and larger ones thought to hold roof supports and the outer one to hold much lighter wall supports.  All had entrances, most of which were facing east or southeast, and some of which were provided with a square porch by the addition of two posts at their entrances.  Eleven had hearths at or near the centre, suggesting that those with and without hearths were used differently.  Some of the structures overlapped, suggesting that they were rebuilds.  A cache of pebbles, thought to be for slingshots, were found in one of the roundhouses on the edge of the rampart.  Other structures were also found, consisting of twelve small oval pits as well as a series of postholes in pairs, but these may or may not belong to Phase 1.

Inner rampart

The footpath along inner rampart, following the line of the contour around the top of the hill, marked by the line of gorse

It is not known how long a period separated Phase 1 from Phase 2.  Phase 2 of the hillfort consisted of the construction of the inner rampart and ditch.  The surviving bank, which made up the rampart, was up to 6m wide and nearly 2m high.  At the back it sloped towards the interior but its front was provided with a “showy” revetted stonework facing that alternated with wooden posts 0.6 – 0.9m apart.  A generic image of a box rampart is shown below for reference.  The rampart posts were tied into a wooden framework within the bank, and the interior was divided into compartments or cells that were filled with rubble, perhaps to provide additional structural integrity and to enable easy repairs when any one part of the rampart failed.  This is referred to by Barry Cunliffe as “the Moel y Gaer style” of rampart building.

Forde-Johnston's illustration of box ramparts

J. Forde-Johnston’s illustration of box ramparts, with my annotations showing key features. Source: Forde-Johnston 1976 p.180

Another section of the inner rampart

Another section of the inner rampart

Phase 2 of the hillfort showing the earliest rampart at left, the roundhouses, and the 4-posters. Source: Guilbert 2018, Internet Archaeology.

The enclosed space in Phase 2 was occupied by a mixture of twelve roundhouses, different from the Phase 1 structures, and around thirty four-posted structures that were largely set apart from the roundhouses, indicating a level of deliberate planning.  The roundhouses in this phase, between 5.7 and 8.1m in diameter, only had a single circuit of stakeholes and no separate roof supports, indicating more lightweight structures, with or without roofs.  As in the previous phase, entrances were mainly aligned to the east.  The four-posters are known from other hillfort and lowland sites, but there are no indications at Moel y Gaer about how they were used.  Interestingly, when the site was abandoned the timbers from many of the 4-posters were removed, presumably for re-use elsewhere.  The roundhouses and the ramparts on the bank were simply abandoned, leading to the decay of both.  The period of Phase 2 occupation dates to the 4th century BC.

A gorse-covered section of the outer rampart

A gorse-covered section of the outer rampart seen from the inner rampart

Phase 3 involved the repair of the inner rampart, which was widened and heightened and topped with rubble, with new breastwork added along the top.  This work was radiocarbon dated to the 4th -1st century BC.  Work began on the second, outer rampart, of which intermittent sections and accompanying ditch survive.  Only two stretches of the bank at the east end were built to a clearly visible height, all covered in gorse, but there are places on the walk along the upper rampart where you can clearly see the height of the second rampart, which must have been impressive in places on the other side of the inner rampart’s ditch. A palisade was built on top of it, which may have been intended to look like a more substantial wood-faced revetment from the outside.  Possibly during this phase, although the relationship between the components is not clear, a set of rectangular buildings were added.  These had no foundations of any type, but instead sat on sill-beams that were laid on the surface of the plateau.  They were provided with stone floors and were accompanied by metalled areas interpreted as yards.

The east entrance

The east entrance

There were thought to be at least two entrances into the hillfort (either contemporary or belonging to different periods), one at the east end that remains in use,with an inturned entrance, and one at the west end that was later blocked in, a phenomenon noted at other hillforts in the region.

Moel y Gaer is interesting in relation to other hillforts on the Clwydian Range.  Although the Egyptian temple on top of Moel Famau is just visible from the interior, there was no hillfort on Moel Famau.  Moel Fenlli is just visible, but most of the hillforts on the Clwydian Range were focused on the Vale of Clwyd on the other side of the range.  Moel y Gaer is, by contrast, focused on opposite side of the range, with exceptional views up and down the Dee and across the Wirral towards Merseyside, as well as east towards the mid-Cheshire sandstone ridge where there are other hillforts.  There would have been a direct line of sight between Moel y Gaer and Burton Point, if the latter is confirmed as a promontory fort (see my post on the subject of the latter here).

Some of the unanswered questions

View over hills from Moel y Gaer RhosesmorEven with an excavation on the scale of the rescue work carried out at Moel y Gaer in the face of the planned reservoir there are many questions that remain unanswered.

For example, the possibility of a Neolithic settlement is of considerable importance, but it is not known if the hilltop contains any more clues about this period of occupation.

In Phase 1 the 11m (36ft) gap in the palisade is something of a puzzle if the site was intended to be defensive.  Speculating, it might have been intended to give easy and hurried access for livestock, perhaps in the event of a raid or for herd management purposes, but without the vital information from animal bone it cannot be determined if animals were ever present at the site.

Orientation IA roundhouses Oswald 1997

The orientation of Iron Age roundhouses, showing that the majority are orientated between the east and southeast. Source: Oswald 1997

Similarly, in phase 2 it is suggested that roundhouses with and without hearths may have had different purposes, but these purposes cannot be assessed due to the lack of artefacts, and plant and animal remains.  In both phases 1 and 2 the roundhouse entrances faced mainly east and southeast.  There has been a lot of discussion about whether this sort of orientation, which was common, represented practical considerations such as allowing light and heat into the building from the early morning and excluding westerly winds; or whether more spiritual and cosmological motivations were concerned with aligning buildings to solar events.

In phase 2 it is not known what the four-poster buildings may have been used for unless data can be obtained from unexcavated parts of the hillfort.  Although it has been traditionally suggested that such postholes represent buildings raised off the ground surface on posts, and that these may have been granaries, from most sites there is very little, if any evidence in the form of plant or animal remains, or artefacts, to indicate what function they may have had.

View from the inner rampart over the outer rampart

View from the inner rampart over the outer gorse-covered rampart towards the Dee estuary

In Phase 3 it is not known why the second, outer rampart was only built in incomplete sections, although Ian Brown suggests that such sites may reflect a building strategy employing separate working gangs or family units who simply failed to complete the work by joining up the sections by the time the hillfort was abandoned.  The rectangular buildings that may or may not have been contemporary with the second rampart, and both their date and function remain ambiguous.

Perhaps the biggest unanswered question, common to all of the phases, is what sort of economic practices were adopted by those who occupied the hillfort.  Today there is extensive livestock herding in the area, both sheep and cattle, and this may have formed the basis of subsistence in the Late Bronze Age and Iron Age, but there may also have been other types of agricultural and horticultural activity, or trade links may have supplied the cereal and vegetable components of diet.  Nor is it known to what degree the builders of the Moel y Gaer Rhosesmor hillfort were related or in communication with the hillforts on the Clwydian Range, and if they may have shared or exchanged resources, or whether they were in conflict.  In theory this was the territory in the Late Iron Age of a “tribe” known by Roman writers as the Deceangli, but whether this indicates solidarity between all communities in that territory, and over what sort of period of time, is unknown.  Similarly, it is not known if there were affiliated lowland settlements in the valley below.  Without evidence these and other livelihood questions remain open.

 

View from the ramparts out to Liverpool Bay

View from the ramparts out to Liverpool Bay

View to the east

View to the east

Post-hillfort history

Of the post-hillfort history the earliest is the unconfirmed tradition that one of Owain Glyndŵr’s supporters, Hywel Gwynedd, set up a camp here, but was captured and beheaded in 1406.  Excavations produced no signs of them.  It is, however, a matter of history that in 1814 a fire-beacon was set up here during the Napoleonic Wars to take advantage of the superb views over the estuary and river.

On your way back to the car, the Victorian church of St Paul with its fantastic roof is well worth a visit.

See the National Church Trust website for information about the history of the church, but here are the first two paragraphs:

St Paul’s was built in local limestone between 1874-6 by the architect John Hill for the villagers working in the lead mining industry, which dates back to pre-Roman times. Rhosesmor grew as a distinct lead mining village in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. St Paul’s benefited from local landowners who contributed to the formation of the church. The site was given by Hugh Lupus, first Duke of Westminster (1825-1899) with foundation stone laid by Mrs J Strutt Bankes of Soughton Hall in 1874.

By 1890 necessary repairs, including the present roof beams, were undertaken by architect John Douglas of Chester. The west end Annunciation windows, by Jones and Willis were presented by the Revd W E Torr of Eastham, on the Wirral. The availability of funds grew over the next 25 years and Mr Scott Bankes, replaced the dilapidated chairs in the nave and supplied new fittings for the chancel.

Final Comments

Visiting hillforts is all about enjoying what you can see, but it is also about using excavation reports to imagine what was once there.  The quiet serenity of a hilltop site with wide views, its former ramparts smoothed by centuries of erosion, is probably completely at odds with the busy lives represented by the roundhouses and four-posters, and the ongoing maintenance after the substantial ramparts were first built.

Moel y Gaer Rhosesmor is one of the most thoroughly investigated hillforts in north Wales, and it hints at many more possibilities, via geophysical survey and excavation, for understanding both this and other hillfort sites in the region, from the Late Bronze Age to the end of the Iron Age.

With its panoramic views over the hills and the Dee, Moel y Gaer Rhosesmor is an absolutely marvellous place to visit.

 

 

Visiting

Route to the hillfort

The hillfort is at top left. The parking is in the Rhosesmor community hall immediately off the B5123 (red arrow). The yellow arrows show the route to the hillfort.  Source:  Google Maps

The hillfort is at top left of the image.  Parking is at the Rhosesmor community hall, marked on the map with a red arrow (What3Words ///litigate.messy.hems).  There is a blue parking sign, but it is a bit hidden.  From the car park the yellow arrows show the route.

It is a short walk along the lane towards the route up to the hillfort, with the churchyard of St Paul’s on your left.

At the junction head uphill along a private road. A very faded Public Footpath signpost points you in the right direction, but it is perfectly obvious.  This is quite a short stretch, all uphill.  It ends at the entrance to a house on the left and a metal gate on the right.  Access to the hillfort is via the gate, which leads you onto the open hillside and its top.  It is perhaps a 15 minute walk from the car park to the ramparts.

As you can see in many of the above photographs, the inner bank is fully accessible along a well worn footpath that goes around the full circuit of the hillfort, and their are walks through the gorse on the plateau itself.  The lower bank and ditch are completely covered with gorse, and are not accessible unless you like to wrestle with very dense spiky gorse.  The fully enclosed reservoir is covered in grass, and provides unobstructed views over the entire area.

St Paul’s Church has toilets and a small shop selling essentials as well as hot drinks.  The church is very welcoming and well worth a visit for the beautifully crafted wooden ceiling over the apsidal chancel.

 

Sources

Books, papers and leaflets

Britnell, William J. 1991. The Neolithic. In John Manley, Stephen Grenter and Fiona Gale. The Archaeology of Clwyd. Clwyd County Council, p.55-64

Brown, Ian 2009. Beacons in the Landscape. The Hillforts of England and Wales. Windgather Press

Brück, Joana. The Architecture of Routine Life. In Joshua Pollard (ed.), Prehistoric Britain. Blackwell

Clwyd-Powys Archaeological Trust (leaflet – no date).  Moel y Gaer.

Cunliffe, Barry 2005 (4th edition). Iron Age Communities in  Britain. Routledge

Garner Dan (and contributors) 2016. Hillforts of the Cheshire Ridge. Investigations undertaken by The Habitats and Hillforts Landscape Partnership Scheme 2009–2012. Archaeopress

Guilbert, Graeme 1975. Moel y Gaer: an area excavation on the defences. Antiquity 49, 109-117

Guilbert, G., 1977. The Northern Welsh Marches: some recent developments.  In J. Collis (ed), The Iron Age in Britain — A review.  University of Sheffield, p.41–50.

Guilbert, Graeme 2018. Historical Excavation and Survey of Hillforts in Wales: some critical issues. Internet Archaeology 48
https://intarch.ac.uk/journal/issue48/3/toc.html
Moel y Gaer Rhosesmor page: https://intarch.ac.uk/journal/issue48/3/box1.html

Davies, Jeffrey L. and Frances Lynch 2000.  The Late Bronze Age and Iron Age. Frances Lynch, Stephen Aldhouse-Green and Jeffrey L Davies (eds.) Prehistoric Wales. Sutton Publishing, p.79-138

Oswald, A 1997. A doorway on the past: practical and mystic concerns in the orientation of roundhouse doorways. In (eds.) A. Gwilt and Colin Haselgrove. Reconstructing Iron Age Societies. Oxbow Monograph 71, p.87-95

Websites

Atlas of Hillforts of Britain and Ireland
By Gary Lock and Ian Ralston 2024
https://hillforts.arch.ox.ac.uk

Butser Ancient Farm Archive
The Moel y Gaer House
https://www.butser.org.uk/page43.html

Heneb Historic Environment Record
Moel y Gaer Rhosesmor hillfort, Iron Age phase
https://archwilio.org.uk/her/chi3/report/page.php?watprn=CPAT100296

 

 

Walking at the magnificent Iron Age ‘Old Oswestry’ hillfort

This post looks at the walk around the hillfort and its ramparts, with its section of Wat’s Dyke at its foot, and lovely views across the landscape.  Parking details are at the end.

Old Oswestry from the southwest, via the footpath across the field from Gatacre car park

Old Oswestry from the southwest, via the footpath across the field from Gatacre car park

This makes a great day trip with a visit to the Whittington Castle (see Wikipedia), only 2.5km away to the east, or the market town of Oswestry just to the south (see the official Visit Oswestry site here).  It is free of charge to visit at any time, with one main parking area and a small lay-by.  See Visiting details at the end.

Signage from Old Oswestry

Signage from Old Oswestry. Click to expand.

Old Oswestry hillfort is a magnificent archaeological site and local landmark dating to the 4th to 7th centuries BC during the Iron Age with terrific views over the surrounding lowland landscape.  Seen from above the pentagonal shape is particularly distinctive, and you notice this whilst walking, as it is one of the few hillforts at which you reach corners.  It is also undulating – as you walk around the top you will notice that they path goes up and down, never at all steeply but just enough to draw attention to the varying levels.  If you keep looking across the plateau you will see that this too is undulating; sometimes you can see across it but at other times you can’t.  It is one of the most impressive and least-understood hillforts in the country, excavated only twice with sample trenches, with much more knowledge remaining to be discovered.

In April there are bluebells, celandines and wood anemones, and to keep the scrub down there are small herds of black sheep (Soay and Hebridean crosses) roaming the banks and ditches.  On my visit this August, just a few days ago, the long-term drought had left everything incredibly parched, and the plateau grass had died off.  Some of the young trees and shrubs were in fruit with red hawthorn berries, blackberries and dark purple alder berries. There had obviously been rosebay willowherb recently in flower, with its fluffy seeds catching the sun, and some gigantic thistles had recently gone over.  Otherwise, it was the bracken that was winning the fight against the drought, in spite of a fine herd of attractive black sheep.

Banks and ditches at the western entrance

Banks and ditches at the western entrance looking north

The site of Old Oswestry is built on a hill of clay, sands, gravels and mixed boulders left behind after the retreat of the last glacier, the whole thing lying on a bed of glacial clay.  You can see boulders underfoot as you walk around the perimeter of the plateau.  Old Oswestry is the largest of three similar hillocks, one of which is immediately visible to the south.  The hillfort was excavated in 1939 and 1940 with seven trenches cut mainly across the ramparts, followed 80 years by a small excavation of three trenches in 2021 and 2022, again across the ramparts.  The interior has never been subject to excavation.

Hillfort phases. Source: English Heritage

The earliest known occupants used the hillfort during the Neolithic, and left behind two polished stone axes and a set of worked stone tools.  The story of the archaeology of the Iron Age hillfort is complicated, but in essence it began with two banks that supported ramparts (defences built of stone), separated from each other by a ditch.  The first pair of banks and ditches followed the natural line of the hill, only interrupted by two entrances, on the east and west sides.  Over the 300 years that the hillfort remained in use, additional banks and ditches were added, in a less straight forward arrangement, causing the entrances to become corridors with banks along their sides.  In total, there are two banks on the eastern side, five on the southern side, four on the south and seven on the west where a complex of hollowed out depressions were added either side of the western entrance.  To date it is not known what the hollows were used for and they remain unique in Britain.  There are photos of them below.

Map showing Wat's Dyke and Offa's Dyke

Map showing Wat’s Dyke (brown line) and Offa’s Dyke (green line). Source: Keith Ray and authors on ResearchGate

The hillfort was incorporated by Wat’s Dyke, which arrives at the hillfort’s southern corner, and departs at its northern end, using the hillfort’s presence as a component of the linear boundary that extends over a 60 km (37 mile) stretch of the Welsh border built in the 8th or 9th century AD. It begins in Maesbury, just south of Oswestry and extends all the way to Basingwerk, near Holywell, on the north Wales coast, roughly parallel to Offa’s Dyke, but much shorter.  Although its purpose is currently a matter of speculation, it is thought to mark the border of Mercia in the west, and to be both a defensive and a symbolic structure, marking differences is political allegiance and administrative systems.  There is only one small part of it visible at Old Oswestry, at the southwest corner, but the line of the Dyke is marked by a line of hedgerow and trees that heads north from the hillfort.

Old Oswestry annotated

LiDAR view of Old Oswestry, with Wat’s Dyke (red arrows) and the craters and trenches (pink arrows) clearly visible. Click to enlarge. Source: Lock, Gary and Ralston, Ian. 2024. Atlas of Hillforts of Britain and Ireland: https://tinyurl.com/mputmk3d

In the LiDAR image of Old Oswestry to the right, Wat’s Dyke can be seen at the bottom left, where it meets the corner on a perpendicular on the southern side and extends from northeast corner of the hillfort, both visible as a shaded bank leading into and out of the hillfort.  The builders were obviously great pragmatists, making good use of a natural barrier in the landscape!

During the First World War, the interior of the hillfort enclosure was used for military training purposes, including the digging of practice trenches and setting off mortars and other explosive devices that left small craters in the top.  Marks of both the trenches and the craters are visible in some aerial photographs, and are visible in the LiDAR image right (click to expand).

The photographs are a mixture from April 2025 and August 2026, showing the difference between the well-watered spring and the long-term drought of 2026.

View from the foot of the west entrance

View from the foot of the west entrance to the west

View across the fields at the entrance to the hillfort

View across the fields at the entrance to the hillfort

The west entrance towards the plateau

The west entrance towards the plateau

 

From the bottom of the west entrance there is a shallow slope, with wide wood-framed stone steps to avoid mud slippage, leading up to the plateau.  Here, there is a walk that follows the circumference of the hillfort.

East side of the top of the hillfort

East side of the top of the hillfort. Note that this photograph was taken in April 2025; in August 2026 the plateau was completely parched, and a light yellow colour as in some of the photographs below.

The middle of the interior is fenced off for pasture most of the way round, although you can enter it at the eastern entrance, where you also get a good sense of how undulating the plateau actually is, even though it looks completely flat in aerial photographs.  At this point, as with many others, you cannot see from one side of the enclosed space to the other. Walking to the highest point of the plateau from the eastern entrance, up a slight slope, gives you panoramic views.

View across the eastern entrance towards the north

View across the eastern entrance towards the north in August 2026

The ramparts and ditches can all be explored freely, and these give an excellent idea, even after centuries of erosion, of the scale of the construction work that made up the site.  All of the rampart banks are so magnificently high that if you stand in the ditches, all you can see is the walls of the banks either side of you. It is in the ditches and on the side of banks, rather than along the plateau itself, that most of the wild flowers are to be found.

 

Across the top two banks and ditches to the view beyond

Optional stairways that lead across the banks and ditches from the circumference walk

Optional stairways that lead across the banks and ditches from the circumference walk, showing the surviving depth of one of the ditches

 

The line of Wat's Dyke

The line of Wat’s Dyke marked by the hedgerow and trees, heading north from the northern edge of the hillfort

 

April 2025

April 2025

Rosebay willowherb

Rosebay willowherb, August 2026

 

 

 

 

 

View east from the plateau

View east from the plateau

Perimeter walk around the plateau

Perimeter walk around the plateau

Upper and second ramparts

Upper and second ramparts looking west

Walking along the top of the second rampart

Walking along the top of the second rampart to the east

Walking to the west along the third rampart

The hollows at the west end are reached most easily from a black metal kissing gate on the north side (left, going up) on the slope from the western entrance.  This lets onto a single track footpath that passes at the bottom of the hollows and lets you get a sense of the scale of them, which is impressive.  The hollows on the other side of the footpath can also been seen, but are much smaller.  A footpath actually goes across the middle of them, but they are best seen from the second (looking down) or third ramparts (looking back).

One of the ponds or cells that you can see in the aerial photograph at the top of the page

One of the ponds or cells that you can see in the illustration at the top of the page, to the left of the west entrance as you go uphill, in April 2025. This was dry in the drought conditions of August 2026, but some of the hollows still had marsh plants at their edges.

Soft-stem bulrush growing around the base of the hollows even after a drought

 

 

Returning to the car via the west entrance

Returning to the car via the west entrance

 

The great bank at the base of the hillfort and the lesser bank below it

The great bank at the base of the hillfort and the lesser bank below it

The Tudor “Park Hall,” which burned down in 1918.  Source: Lost Heritage website

The hillfort itself is dramatic and breathtaking, but the surrounding landscape also bears unmistakeable signs of Oswestry’s heritage, whilst beneath the fields there may well be more of the area’s prehistory to uncover.  The hillfort used to part of the Park Hall estate, which once had one of England’s most impressive Tudor houses at its core before it tragically burned down in 1918.  The Oldport Farm immediately below the hillfort on its southeastern side dates at least to the 17th century, and perhaps earlier, and the fields retain the imprint of much earlier agricultural heritage.  During the First World War both the centre of the hillfort and other places in the vicinity, was used for digging practice trenches, both a chilling and touching reminder of the realities of the war.  A Prisoner of War Camp and cemetery were both established nearby.  There are even glimpses of the impact of the Industrial Revolution from the top of the hillfort, with the 19th century railway and Thomas Telford’s A5.

If you are looking for a great place for a short walk that focuses on a splendidly impressive and nationally important site, this should not be missed.  The walk can be extended via other footpaths, or can be combined with a visit to Oswestry itself, which is a very attractive market town.  You can download the Visit Oswestry’s Heritage Trail here.

The site was owned by Lord Harlech until 1946 when he handed it over to the state, and it is now the responsibility of English Heritage.

 

Sketchfab 3-D interactive model of Old Oswestry Hillfort.

Sketchfab 3-D interactive model of Old Oswestry Hillfort. Click here to go to the Sketchfab page.

Visiting 

The route to Old Oswestry Hillfort, showing the main parking area at Gatacre car park, as well as the lay-by at the foot of the west entrance.  Source: Old Oswestry Hillfort website – visiting page

The site is managed by English Heritage and it is free of charge to visit at any time, with one main parking area a five minute walk away from the hillfort, and a small lay-by.  There is brown heritage signage from the A5, which takes you through a residential area to the Gatacre Playing Field car park where there is plenty of parking (What3Words ///spray.funky.tasters).  There is also a layby with room for four or five cars.  Both parking areas are shown on the map produced by the Old Oswestry Hillfort website.

From Gatacre Playing Field car park showing the field route and the lane route to the western entrance to the hillfort.

From Gatacre Playing Field car park showing the field route and the lane route to the western entrance to the hillfort. Source: What3Words

I always park at the Gatacre car park because there is always plenty of room and it is only a five minute walk from the hillfort’s west entrance (the main access route to the hillfort).  The route to the hillfort is all on the flat, along a metalled path and a small, very quiet lane.

If it hasn’t  been raining, there is an even shorter route if you use the footpath (Oswald’s Way) from just beyond the car park to cut across the field – this was a gorgeous vista of sunflowers in August 2026, and would probably be even more sunflower-intensive in years that have had a bit of rainfall.

There are no facilities at the hillfort of any description, but there are plenty within Oswestry itself, only a short drive (less than two miles / 3.5km) from the site, or at Whittington Castle to the east.

The west entrance is a long, shallow slope now provided with long wood-framed steps lined with stone to protect visitors from muddy conditions, that leads up to the top.  At the top, there is a footpath all around the plateau.  The western and eastern entrances also offer access via gates and footpaths to the lower banks and ditches as well as the puzzling hollows that flank the west entrance.  Note that sheep roam the banks and ditches, so gates must be closed and dogs must be kept on leads.

Bracken on the banks and ditches at the northwestern corner of the hillfort

Bracken on the banks and ditches at the northwestern corner of the hillfort

Although the entire plateau walk is a nice easy stroll all the way around, well-worn by dog walkers, some of the lower ramparts are more challenging.  Most of the hillfort walks along banks and ditches are very easy to access on the south and west sides, but bracken can be a perpetual problem on some of the ramparts and ditches beneath the plateau on the north and east sides of the hillfort, particularly in the summer.  It seriously impedes passage, as well as potentially doing significant damage to archaeological deposits, whilst its density eliminates other species, significantly reducing biodiversity. Love it or hate it, one has to admire the tenacity of bracken under such extreme conditions. Both volunteer work and sheep are combining to reduce the impact of such invasive species, managing the site for the benefit of biodiversity, the archaeology and visitors.  If you find one of the rampart or ditch walks a bit of a struggle, there are plenty of others to try.

There are plenty of well thought out information signs along the course of the west entrance as well as on the footpath around the top, providing details about the archaeology and history of the site.

The walk can be extended via other footpaths.  For example the diagonal route across the field from the car park to the hillfort’s west entrance is part of Oswald’s Trail, a 12 mile / 13 km circular walk about which you can read more on the Shropshire’s Great Outdoors website. Or it can be combined with a visit to Oswestry itself, which is a very attractive market town.  You can download the Visit Oswestry’s Heritage Trail here.

View from the hillfort to Oswestry

View from the hillfort towards Oswestry

Sunflowers on the path across the field from Gatacre Playing Fields to the western entrance of the hillfort

Sunflowers on the path across the field from Gatacre Playing Fields to the western entrance of the hillfort

 

Artist's reconstruction of Old Oswestry Hillfort, based on the discovery of two roundhouses. By Ivan Lapper.

Artist’s reconstruction of Old Oswestry Hillfort based on the surviving earthworks and entrances and the discovery during excavations of the ephemeral remains of two roundhouses. There are no ramparts shown on top of the banks, but the illustration gives a sense of how the interior might have looked, and how the east entrance may have been configured. By Ivan Lapper. Source: English Heritage

 

The lovely Harp Inn and the chunky remains of Ness Colliery’s Denhall Quay, south Wirral

The Harp Inn, Little Neston

The Harp Inn, Little Neston

One of the most mellow, blue-skied and sunny afternoons that I have enjoyed in a long time was a sublimely relaxed and chatty visit to The Harp Inn on the Dee estuary, just outside Little Neston.  It is a super little pub dating to the 1700s with lovely views over the marshes towards the impressively long line of the Welsh foothills.  The pub’s official opening time is 12 noon, but we arrived to find it open at 1145 because due to queues outside their doors at 12 they are currently opening at 11. Very gratifying!  The beers and ciders change from time to time (just check their website), there are plenty of soft drinks on offer and the lunches that were being paraded past us as the afternoon advanced looked gorgeous.  The staff are lovely, and the atmosphere is great.  There are lots of tables perched on the grassland at the edge of the lush green estuary, and on a stiflingly hot day, a wonderfully warm but cooling breeze came off the Dee to make the peaceful, endless vistas a delectable place to linger, interrupted only by birdsong.  The breeze was so perfect.  I do love the heat, but it is lovely to be able to sit in the sunshine without dripping like a tap.  Update:  We went back the following week to have lunch after a visit to the Williamson Art Gallery and Museum in Birkenhead, and the food (haddock, chunky chips, tartare sauce and garden peas for one of us and an enormous ham and cheese ploughman’s with all the trimmings and more for the other) was just as good as it had looked as it was passing us on trays the previous week.

Most of the photos taken on my aged iPhone. Enlarge at your own risk!

View from The Harp

View from The Harp

 

 

Denhall Quay

Denhall Quay

According to the pub’s website, the building has stood there since the 1750s, when it was originally built as three coal-miners’ cottages, before being converted to an inn in 1780 to serve the expanding coal-mining community at Ness.  This segues nicely into the second major benefit of the pub, which is its location a stone’s throw from Denhall Quay, an intriguing and picturesque line of wall, made of massive red sandstone blocks, that stretches out into the marshland, and is clearly the remaining echo of a substantial structure.  In fact, the wall is what remains of a long pier that served the Ness Colliery, built in 1839 to replace an earlier quay in the same location.  The wall was much deeper than it is now, its lower tiers lying beneath 200 years of silt accumulation, but it it sufficient to give an idea of how impressive the structure originally was.

This was not the most obvious location for a quay because the river did not run past the colliery, veering towards Wales just before Little Neston, meaning that a channel had to be created to link the quay to the main river, which became known as the Colliery Gutter.  It was not ideal, as vessels often had to wait for two tides to turn before being able to navigate all the way to the quay, forcing colliers to beach on the muds in the interval between tides.

Denhall Quay c.1839 Annakin-Smith p170

Denhall Quay c.1839 showing the quay, with its distinctive shape, surrounded by subterranean tunnels. Source: Annakin-Smith “The Neston Collieries, 1759-1855” 2019, p.170, fig.10.6

There were two collieries at Ness:  Ness Colliery, which opened in 1759, and Little Neston Colliery immediately to the north, which opened in 1820.  Most people, myself included, would not automatically associate coal mining with the Wirral, although it is a very familiar industry from North Wales.  Fortunately, Anthony Annakin-Smith wrote an excellent book on the subject in 2019, which I read shortly after its publication, and he gave a really enjoyable lecture about the collieries at the Festival of Ideas this year (July 2026).  The Wirral coal seams are an extension of the Welsh ones, but although a slither of the seams can be found on the Wirral landmass itself, most of them lie under the estuary, and it was here that most of the mining took place.  A whole network of tunnels was built below the estuary, and subterranean canals were added to help remove the coal in long narrow vessels called “starvationers.”  Both the tunnels and the canals lead back to shafts where the coal was hoisted to the surface.  It was a dangerous and sometimes tragic business.  Once extracted and processed the coal was transported to ports in Britain, Ireland, France, Spain and as far away as America and even Barbados.

Starvationer

A “starvationer” of the sort used in the canals beneath the Dee estuary, now in the National Waterways Museum at Ellesmere Port (my photo)

The two collieries were located either side of a border dividing land between two different family interests.  The original colliery, Ness, owned by the Stanley family, handled the arrival of the new colliery very badly, and its owner, Sir Thomas Stanley, who sounds like an absolute monster of a man, pursued a course of aggression that eventually, on several occasions, erupted into blatant sabotage, including destruction of machinery, flooding of their rival’s tunnels and, on one particularly violent occasion, an attempt to use explosives to completely obliterate the opposition.  The collieries were both closed between 1845 and 1855 due to silting of the estuary, but they were revived in 1875, and the last coal was worked in 1927.

It is difficult to assess just how the collieries initially impacted local people, because most of the coal miners were brought in from North Wales and Lancashire, with Wirral residents only working in minor and administrative roles.  But both the collieries and the miners became part of the community, and Denhall Quay is an important reminder of the unexpected industrial and social heritage of this small corner of the Wirral.

The Harp Inn, on Quayside in Little Neston, is at the end of a residential lane, Marshlands Road, turning left along the Quayside, before it eventually becomes a track and then a footpath.  There are three main parking areas, first just as you round the bend to turn left from Marshlands Road onto Quayside (What3Words ///regarding.solving.mirroring, about a two minute walk, heading in the same direction), then at the pub itself where there is parking for about 10 cars (What3Words ///when.grumbling.kicks), and finally at Denhall Quay (///bike.outcasts.tarred, about a two minute walk back to the pub).

If you are interested in finding out more about the Wirral collieries I sincerely recommend Anthony Annakin-Smith’s The Neston Collieries, 1759–1855: An Industrial Revolution in Rural Cheshire published by the University of Chester Press (a second edition was released in 2023), and also check out his website at https://www.nestoncollieries.org.

At the entrance to Denhall Quay there are two helpful information boards that are faded but still just about legible, covering the earlier and later colliery phases, and you can walk out into the marshland along well-worn paths (dry in a hot summer, but probably not as foot-friendly in the autumn and winter).

Both the pub and the quay are on the King Charles III England Coast Path, and would make a great destination if you are visiting either Ness Botanic Gardens or the RSPB reserve at Burton Mere. 

Other posts on this blog re the southwest Wirral area:

 

Late June at Ness Botanic Garden on the Wirral

On one of those days last week when I had a list of a hundred other things I ought to have been doing, and when the sun was blasting down from the heavens like an impending judgement, I jumped in the car and went to Ness Botanic Gardens on the Wirral.  Even on a seriously hot day, there was a breeze coming up off the Dee estuary, there were plenty of shaded and wooded areas to enjoy, and Ness is notable for the sheer quantity of seating and benches available throughout. I was there for three hours, so taking water was essential, but if you forget to bring any with you, the shop is well stocked with bottled water.

My previous visit, during rhododendron and azalea season, was only six weeks ago, but the change was absolute.  The brightly coloured floral effusions of shrubberies, woodland edges and wending pathways had gone over for the season, but in their place both sun- and shade-loving extravaganzas had emerged and were doing a fabulous job of ornamenting large areas of the gardens.  Water features are a significant aspect of Ness, and even though drought conditions were in play, the ponds and wending channels were looking good, supporting numerous water-adapted plant species, some of them with leaves as large as parasols, as well as dragonflies and damson flies.  The herbaceous borders in the big open expanse below the main building are being re-done and were not the extravaganza of colour I had been expecting, and the rose border had gone over, but what I learned on this visit is how much there is to see beyond the core areas.  The gardens extend into shaded wooded areas with winding trails and great views over the Dee and the north Wales coast, and there are extensive wildflower meadows.

There is plenty of parking.  Visitors are provided with a map of the site with the entrance ticket.  Ness has a nice, well attended café which does excellent coffee and a good range of sandwiches, hot food and cold drinks, with both indoors and outside tables available.  There is a small plant sales centre outside the shop, with excellent quality plants that are kept well-watered (mine are doing well in their new homes), and a shop indoors selling gifts.  The Ness Botanic Gardens website with full visitor details is here.

Available to download from the Ness Gardens website at https://www.liverpool.ac.uk/media/livacuk/nessbotanicgardens/Ness;,Map,3_2_26.pdf, but I have not found a way of rendering it easy to print. You are given a copy, however, with your ticket

For a very enjoyable day out, this could be combined very easily with the RSPB Burton Mere nature reserve, which is just 10 minutes away.

 

 

 

 

 

The small and rather puzzling Burton Point Iron Age promontory fort on the Wirral

Burton Point from below

Burton Point from below

The earthworks at Burton Point have been consistently dated to the Iron Age, and the site has usually been described as a promontory hillfort. This post is about the prehistoric, medieval and post-medieval history of the site, with a particular focus on the Iron Age.

Burton Point footpaths and earthworks

The footpath over the railway leading to the viewing platform in the wooded area within the RSPB wildlife reserve, and the earthworks below. Source:  Google Maps

The site is located on a former promontory at the end of a headland at the western edge of the RSPB Burton Wetlands nature reserve.  You may see older websites saying that Burton Point is on private land, but this has now changed and entry to the viewing point over the defences now simply requires a ticket via the RSPB reception area.  The site is served by good footpaths and signposting and includes basic interpretation signage to give visitors some idea of what might have been there during the Iron Age.  As the RSPB reserve is really excellent (I have written about it here) it makes for a great day out even for people who are not particular bird aficionados.

Burton Point fortifications as seen from the footpath in the above imgae

Burton Point fortifications as seen from the approach along the footpath from the RSPB reserve, highlighted in red

Do note that on the whole, there is not a lot to actually see.  The Iron Age defences are on the other side of a fence, with notices not to cross the fence, so exploring the bank and ditch would be trespass.  Even though you are overlooking the defences, it is not at all easy to make out what is going on.  The other approach is to take the cycle track that runs near the base of Burton Point to try and get a look at it from below, but here again it is difficult to make out where the defences are located and how they would have been deployed to protect an Iron Age settlement.  The best way to get a good look of the site is from above, and you can do this by viewing the Mister Drone UK video of the site, which is by far the most effective way of understanding the relationship between the different parts of the site and the modern landscape and former riverscape.

 

Archaeological phases

Between 2005 and 2006 the University of Chester undertook three field surveys:  contour, topographical and geophysical, as well as a documentary review to track down any historical reference to the site in contemporary records.  These were reported by Gary Crawford-Coupe in the Journal of Chester Archaeological Society in 2006.

As you can see in the 1689 map above, it was a very noticeable promontory, with the river channel running along its base, offering clear views upriver towards Chester, and downriver towards Hilbre Island, which we could see on the day.  The visibility of Hilbre will depend to a great degree on the weather, but this was the hottest day of the year to date, and there was not a cloud in the sky.  Opposite, on the Welsh side, is Flint Castle which, like Burton Point, is now set back from the river by a long margin of accumulated silt, but was right on the water’s edge when it was built in 1277.

The four main periods of archaeological evidence proposed for the site are Neolithic, Iron Age, Medieval and 17th century.  The site was quarried extensively for red sandstone, which has caused changes to its appearance.  These are discussed by Gary Crawford-Coupe’s 2006 paper, based on the University of Chester’s field surveys, which is the best source of collated information, and can be downloaded free of charge from the Archaeological Data Service (see Sources at the end).

Neolithic

View along the Dee Estuary to the northwest

View along the Dee Estuary to the northwest towards the coast from the former riverbed under Burton Point

Although there are scatters of Mesolithic lithic finds on the Wirral dating to the earlier and later Mesolithic, examples of which were found in the nearby village of Burton, there is nothing dating to this period at Burton Point.  Three interesting finds dating to the Neolithic were, however, found, discussed in Crawford-Coupe’s paper.  There were two arrowheads, one tanged and one transverse, and a polished axe head from Graig Lwyd in Penmaenmawr.  Graig Lwyd axes were found over a wide area and represent a successful trading network.

Iron Age

The site

Fortification at Burton Point

Fortification at Burton Point, consisting of a bank and ditch

The site has not been excavated so recognition of a site and its interpretation as an Iron Age promontory fort has mainly been a matter of the presence of a bank and ditch.  The bank and ditch arrangement is referred to as a glacis type (in which the bank runs directly on a diagonal slope into the ditch).   The site has produced no further late prehistoric information, and no diagnostic artefacts have been recovered although it should be noted that the lack of finds from the Iron Age in the Cheshire area is entirely typical.  The main object type discovered from Iron Age sites is VCP (Very Coarse Pottery), a distinctive coarse pottery used for transporting salt, but none of this has been found at Burton Point to date.  In spite of this lack of corroborating evidence, most of those who have inspected and commented on the site have been confident that this is indeed a small Iron Age promontory hillfort that could have supported a small population, perhaps little larger than an extended family.  It was first registered as a Scheduled Monument in 1913 and in 1979 the schedule was modified to include a larger area.

Maiden Castle, Bickerton Hill, Cheshire

Artist’s impression of Maiden Castle on Bickerton Hill, overlooking the Cheshire Plain to the west, which in an interesting experiment had a clear line of sight to Burton Point. Produced by the Habitats and Hillforts Project 2008-2012. Source: Sandstone Ridge Trust

There is good circumstantial evidence to suggest an Iron Age date for the Burton area.  Burton Point was also well positioned for visual communication with contemporary sites, as discussed by David Matthews in 2006 and Erin Lloyd Jones  in 2019.  A 2011 experiment, the Hilltop Glow event, organized by the former Heather and Hillforts project, demonstrated that Burton Point and reported on the BBC (BBC News March 2011) was one of ten Iron Age hillfort sites (on the Clwydian Range, Halkyn Mountain, the mid-Cheshire Sandstone Ridge, and at Burton Point) that determined which sites could be seen from one another when torches were lit.  The BBC report of the experiment quoted Heather and Hilltops representative Erin Robinson, stating that Burton Point was visible as far away as Maiden Castle at Bickerton Hill, 25km /15.5 miles (shown above), as well as nearer sites on the Clwydian Range.  Burton Point would also have been in the proximity of Iron Age sites 129 and 154  at Puddington Lane in nearby Burton Village, which confirm that a later Bronze Age and Iron Age presence were in this area.  By boat, Iron Age settlements in both Chester and Meols would have been within easy reach:  Iron Age settlement features were found during the excavations of the Roman amphitheatre in Chester; and at Meols a number of Iron Age finds, including coins, have lead to suggestions that Meols may have been a trading port with connections to both north and south along the coast at that time.

Burton Point LiDAR image from the Atlas of Iron Age of Britain and Ireland (EN3190).

Burton Point LiDAR image from the Atlas of Iron Age of Britain and Ireland (EN3190). The line leading diagonally from northeast to southwest is the footpath leading to the viewing area.

There are however some features that remain puzzling.  If this is supposed to be a settlement on a promontory, separated from the rest of the headland by a bank and ditch, it is remarkably difficult to understand its form from what remains, whether you are overlooking the site, looking up at it from below, or examining maps, LiDAR imaging or aerial photographs.  This is partly due to quarrying and erosion, but also because it is impossible to walk over what remains of the site, which is fenced off.  However, what may have been the Iron Age defences appear to be set below what remains of the headland.  This means that the settlement on the promontory would have been lower than the headland behind it, a strategic disadvantage if the bank and ditch were defensive rather than merely statements of territory or prestige.  On my first visit it seemed  counter-intuitive that this was a promontory hillfort because the defences were only around 20ft above the river bed.  Once the term “fort” is removed from the equation, it is still puzzling, and although a short stretch of bank and ditch were visible, they were below the level at which we were standing on the headland behind the defences, a few feet higher than the defences.  Faint heart never won fair hillfort, so a few days later I parked up near the cycle track that runs around the base of Burton Point and had another look from what would have been the Dee riverbed, from where the headland clearly rises above the level of the defences.  The Mister Drone footage and the above LiDAR image, which I found only later also indicate that the defences were below the headland behind it.

Even so, the bank and ditch may have been more symbolic than actually defensive.  Speculating wildly, if the promontory was occupied for its views or as a trading point, the defences could have been built to control access to and exit from a specialized site.  In this case, or any other function for the site (including domestic settlement) the bank and ditch could have had more to do with a statement of territoriality and prestige than any actual threat.

The surveys  undertaken by the University of Chester (Crawford-Coupe 2005) were unable to provide definitive data to substantiate the proposed dating.  The tangle of tree roots prevented any detection of sub-surface structures.

There are alternative suggestions.  After his visit to inspect the site in November 1950, Professor A.W. Lawrence, thought that the earthworks represented quarry upcast prior to starting a new quarry (Historic England Research Records Monument No.67150).  The same source puts forward the possibility that even if it is accepted that the bank and ditch are defensive, they could represent “a Dark Age Celtic Fort,” partly based on the possibility that the parish name Burton may be derived from Burh-tun, meaning “farm/dwelling by the fort.”  The CHER record (9/1) mentions, without a reference, that “[i]t has been suggested that it maybe the military base of the Dane, Hingamund.”

The site continues to interest those researching the Iron Age and has been mentioned in subsequent reports on other sites, placing it in a wider regional context.  As Crawford-Coupe points out, matters are unlikely to be clarified until an excavation takes place.

Composite map showing the distribution of Iron Age sites in northwest England and north Wales. Sources: I combined the two maps from Ritchie 2018 and Nevell 2025

Roman

For those wondering whether there may have been a Roman trading post or watchpost here, perhaps part of a network with Meols, both reasonable thoughts given the notable lines of sight on a clear day, a single Roman brooch was found (SMR-no.59).  A single object cannot be extrapolated into a whole site or a particular set of activities but the discovery is still interesting, particularly as there was a find of another Roman brooch (SMR no.56), a fibula-type, in a field opposite Ness Gardens only 1.5 miles / 2.4 km away from Burton Point.  I have not yet found a detailed account or image of either brooch.

Medieval use and quarrying

Flint Castle

Flint Castle on the Dee Estuary, opposite Burton Point

After the site was abandoned in the Roman period, it is thought that it was used for stone quarrying by Edward I for Flint Castle, together with stone from Ness where Edward kept a small garrison.  Most of the stone used for Flint Castle was yellow sandstone, that tends to look rather grey today, but red sandstone that could have been quarried from Burton Point and its vicinity was also used as infill and for some inner stonework.

Richard II’s Cheshire archers are thought to have embarked from Burton Point on the expedition to Ireland in 1399.

Post-medieval land use, quarrying and burials

As has already been mentioned, in the Middle Ages the channel of the Dee is thought to have run up to the base of Burton Point, and there are various records of requests for access to the small headland for mooring, unloading and storage. The University of Chester survey published in 2006 noted a section of wall and some pavings, which may have had something to do with these requests, but it is all fairly ambiguous.

1732 map of the river Dee and estuary showing Burton Point.

1732 map of the river Dee and estuary showing Burton Point. Source: sustainablebeach.co.uk

In 1889 it was reported that 29 burials were found, all interred orientated east to west, with no grave goods.  An east-west burial is consistent with a Christian burial, but that does not narrow it down much.  When the skeletal remains were examined, there were no marks to indicate how they died, which seems to rule out a Civil War explanation, but leaves the possibility of plague or shipwreck.  A shipwreck was recorded for 1637.  Shipwreck victims may or may not have incurred injuries during the wrecking of the ship, but plague would have left no signs at all and would be consistent with such a remote burial, unconnected with a church and consecrated land.

 

Final Comments

Imaginative reconstruction of how an Iron Age site may have looked

Given that no roundhouses or any indications of palisades have been found at the site, this information sign represents a profound act of imagination based loosely on structures found on other Iron Age sites in the general area.

Partly due to erosion and quarrying that have obliterated most of the site, and partly due to the position of the defences at a level lower than the main headland, the site is not particularly easy to understand as an Iron Age defended promontory settlement.  Nevertheless, it is generally accepted as such, demonstrated by the University of Chester report published in 2006, and its inclusion in discussions of the Iron Age in the area, its presence on distribution maps of Iron Age sites and its inclusion on online Atlas of Iron Age Hillforts in Britain and Ireland.  There do remain questions about the overall plan of the proposed late prehistoric settlement.

 

Sources 

Books and papers

Britnell, W.J. and Silvester, R.J. 2018. 1. Introduction. In (eds.) Britnell, W.J. and Silvester, R.J. 2018. Hillforts and Defended Enclosures of the Welsh Borderland. Internet Archaeology 48
https://intarch.ac.uk/journal/issue48/7/1.html

Crawford-Coupe, Gary 2006. II. The Archaeology of Burton Point.  Journal of Chester Archaeological Society, new series 89, p.71-90
https://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archiveDS/archiveDownload?t=arch-2910-1/dissemination/pdf/JCAS_ns_080/JCAS_ns_080_071-090.pdf

Gregory, Richard A. and Mark Adams with contributions by Denise Druce, Laura Griffin, Chris Howard-Davis, Gwladys Monteil, Elaine L. Morris, Rob Philpott, Ian Smith and Adam Tinsley 2019. Excavation at Two Cropmark Enclosures at Puddington Lane, Burton, Wirral, 2010–2015.
Journal of Chester Archaeological Society, new series 89, 2019, p.1–69
https://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archiveDS/archiveDownload?t=arch-2910-1/dissemination/pdf/JCAS_ns_089/JCAS_ns_089_001-070.pdf

Griffiths, David., Robert A. Philpott, Geoff Egan and contributors 2007. Meols, the Archaeology of the North Wirral Coast. Oxford University School of Archaeology: Monograph 68: Institute of Archaeology, University of Oxford.
https://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archives/view/meols_sal_2007/downloads.cfm

Lloyd Jones, Erin 2019. Connections between the hillforts of the Clwydian Range and the wider landscape. Unpublished PhD, Bangor University
https://pure.bangor.ac.uk/ws/portalfiles/portal/22607372/2017_Jones_EL_PhD.pdf

Matthews, David J. 2006. Mapping hillfort intervisibility and its potential to define Iron Age tribal areas in the northern and mid Marches. Unpublished MA Thesis

Matthews, Keith J. 2001. The Iron Age of Northwest England: A socio-economic model.  Journal of the Chester Archaeological Society 76, p.1-51
https://www.academia.edu/900876/The_Iron_Age_of_North_West_England_A_Socio_Economic_Model

Morgan, Victorian and Paul Morgan 2004.  Prehistoric Cheshire. Landmark Publishing

Nevell, Mike 2025. Northwest Regional Research Framework: Later Prehistory
https://researchframeworks.org/nwrf/resource-assessments/later-prehistory/ 

Philpott, Robert A. and Mark H. Adams and contributors 2010.  Irby, Wirral.  Excavations on a Late Prehistoric Romano-British and Medieval site 1987-96.  National Museums Liverpool

Ritchie, Matt 2018.  A Brief Introduction to Iron Age Settlement in Wales. Internet Archaeology 48. https://intarch.ac.uk/journal/issue48/2/1.html

Silvester R.J. 2018. 4. North-east Wales and the Cheshire borderlands. In (eds.) Britnell, W.J. and Silvester, R.J. 2018. Hillforts and Defended Enclosures of the Welsh Borderland. Internet Archaeology 48
https://intarch.ac.uk/journal/issue48/7/toc.html

Wilmott, Tony and Dan Garner 2018. The Roman Amphitheatre of Chester, Volume 1: The Prehistoric and Roman Archaeology. Oxbow Books

Websites

ARCHAEOdeath
The Archaeology of Burton Point: The Heritage Open Day at Burton Mere RSPB
https://howardwilliamsblog.wordpress.com/2022/09/16/the-archaeology-of-burton-point-the-heritage-open-day-at-burton-mere-rspb/

Atlas of Hillforts in Britain and Ireland
EN3190 – Burton Point.  Gary Lock and Ian Ralston 2012-2016
https://tinyurl.com/mrxeu34s

Based In Churton
Exploring Maiden Castle Iron Age Hillfort, Bickerton Hill (mid-Cheshire Sandstone Ridge)
https://wp.me/pcZwQK-8Az
Sunshine, archaeology and great views at Caer Drewyn Iron Age hillfort at Corwen
https://wp.me/pcZwQK-4ft
Hillforts and amazing views – and why is there an Egyptian temple on the top of Moel Famau?
https://wp.me/pcZwQK-9dE
The fabulous nature reserve at the RSPB’s Burton Mere Wetlands
https://wp.me/pcZwQK-7QS

BBC News
North Wales Hillfort Test of Iron Age Communication
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-north-east-wales-11832323

Heritage Gateway
Historic England Research Records Monument Number 67150.  
https://www.heritagegateway.org.uk/Gateway/Results_Single.aspx?uid=67150&resourceID=19191

Historic England 
Promontory fort on Burton Point 550m south west of Burton Point Farm
https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1013298?section=official-list-entry

Mister Drone UK
Burton Point, Iron Age Fort Remains search by drone
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t9izFQLB148

Northwest Regional Resource
Introduction: The Later Prehistoric Resource. 1200BC-43AD. Compiled by Michael Nevell, with contributions.
https://researchframeworks.org/nwrf/resource-assessments/later-prehistory/

A Sustainable Vision for Hoylake Beach
The Curious Case of the Cheesemongers (for the very useful 1732 map of the Wirral)
https://sustainablebeach.org.uk/index.php/evidence-and-data/library/the-curious-case-of-the-cheesemongers/

 

The view across to Wales

The view across to Wales from the foot of Burton Point

Hillforts and amazing views – and why is there an Egyptian temple on the top of Moel Famau?

The Jubilee Tower

The Jubilee Tower

It was something of a surprise when I walked up to the top of Moel Famau during the week and found myself face to face with a building that was clearly based on an ancient Egyptian temple, the Grade II listed Jubilee Tower.  People talk about the views, the hillforts, the heather, the bilberries and the bird life, but no-one had mentioned that there was a rather unexpected slice of Egyptomania on the peak.  One would certainly, thankfully, not be permitted to build on a national beauty spot these days, but I suppose that it could be a lot worse, like the hideous, overpriced café on Snowdon.  The Jubilee Tower is not elegant, it is not authentic, and it is anything but pretty, but it did make me smile, and other walkers were clearly enjoying it too.  Heritage comes in various forms, some of them most unexpected.  The Egyptian Revival produced some splendid buildings and monuments, and although this one is not amongst the most accomplished, its location singles it out as a fairly remarkable example, a genuine curiosity.

 

Map of Moel Famau footpaths

Map of Moel Famau footpaths, as well as the locations of Moel y Gaer and Foel Fenlli hillforts. Source: Nearly Uphill

Moel Famau, on the Clwydian Range, is lovely.  It is the highest peak on the Clwydians and a very popular destination for hikers and dog walkers alike.  I don’t really remember my first visit, so it was very much like visiting for the first time.  There are a number of different approaches to the peak. I went along the Bwlch Pen Barras road, a pass through the Clwydian Range where there are two official starting points with car parks.  one of which takes you through the coed (wood), but it was far too gloriously sunny to be under cover, which means that that the best starting point was the large amount of lay-by parking (which I believe is free) or the Bwlch Pen Barras car park (payment required) .  The What3Words address for the Bwlch Pen Barras car park is ///hobble.passwords.device.  You are already very high up at this point, with terrific views over the Vale of Clwyd before you even start, and the footpath that I took (the purple track at far left of the above map) provides superb views over the Vale of Clwyd.

The walk, along a wide, well maintained path, starts very gently and for the first 20 minutes or so is very easy.  It becomes much steeper for a fairly short section leading up to the peak, but people of all levels of fitness seemed to be tackling it, some stopping frequently for a breather.  It’s worth that last push because the 360º views are breathtaking.

 

 

If you climb up the steps to the top of the Egyptian Revival “temple” there are metal plaques explaining the building.  It turns out that what we see today is just the stump of a much more ambitious project, the Jubilee Tower, which included an obelisk.  It was designed by architect Thomas Harrison, and was built to celebrate the Golden Jubilee of George III in 1810, paid for by public subscription, with Flintshire magistrate Lord Kenyon laying the foundation stone in October of that year.  Harrison’s buildings in Chester are far less frivolous, with most of his work in the Neoclassical style, including the Grosvenor Bridge and the Propylaeum (monumental gateway) into Chester Castle and the Neoclassical building that is now owned by the university but was previously occupied by the council as its Shire Hall.  The building materials were taken up by horse and cart. The design of the obelisk was modified during construction, with a shorter and stumpier version being completed in about 1817 after a break in work due to financial difficulties and a dispute between Harrison and the builder. Unfortunately the obelisk soon started to deteriorate, and eventually collapsed in a storm in 1862.  The rest of the structure continued to decay until 1970 when it underwent restoration, and in 2013 it again required significant restoration work.  Here’s the Coflein description of the Jubilee Tower:

The Jubilee Tower in the Edwardian period

The Jubilee Tower in the Edwardian period. Source:  BBC News

The monument now survives as a battered plinth, 12-15m diameter, of roughly coursed rubble stone. Located on a mound which may be artificial. Each face has a central blind doorway of dressed stone, in simple Egyptian style, under a roll-moulded lintel; roughly hewn cornice or hoodmould.  Above these blind openings are broad rectangular panels of dressed freestone with roll-moulded surrounds. The corners of the monument have stone and concrete steps, starting from low square projections, which lead to the centre of the monument. Inside are the circular rubble stone footings of a former higher section of tower, 6m in diameter.  Around the outside of the monument is a renewed retaining wall 0.5-1m high, open at the corners. A plaque reads ‘Cefn Gwlad award 1970’, with Prince of Wales emblems.

The Egyptian Revival followed Napoleon’s invasion of Egypt in 1798.  He took with him over 100 specialists, the “savants,” amongst whom were artists and draughtsmen who recorded the ancient Egyptian temples.

One of the first and very popular books to publish these images was Dominique Vivant-Denon’s “Journeys in Upper and Lower Egypt” published in 1802.  Even before Jean-François Champollion’s translation of hieroglyphs in 1822, and over a century before Howard Carter’s discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamen in 1922, Egypt had wriggled its way firmly into the British imagination.  Even so, I would love to have been at the meeting where plonking a pseudo-Egyptian monument on the top of a remote beauty spot in honour of the king’s jubilee was presented as a such a good idea that people invested in it.

 

Moel y Gaer hillfort is the green beret on top of the pinkish-brown supr

Also on the top of the temple are plaques showing the names of the hills all around, with Cadair Idris and Snowdonia visible as silvery silhouettes through the slight haze, and the Moel Arthur hillfort next along on the Clwydian Range.

Looking northeast towards Prestatyn across Moel Arthur and Penycloddiau hillforts from the top of Jubilee Tower

View from the main path to Moel y Gaer hillfort

If you are a fan of the Iron Age this is a terrific walk.  The path passes Moel y Gaer, which sits on a spur of the hillside, and is a piece of absolute perfection.  It is not on a public footpath, but it is clearly visible from the main route up Moel Famau.  Its banks and ditches form an elegant tiara, and its position overlooking the Vale of Clwyd is superb.  Once you have reached the peak of Moel Famau, the hill housing the Moel Arthur hillfort is clearly visible, with Penycloddiau beyond.  Foel Fenlli is a walk in its own right, but it is an important part of the walk back down from Moel Famau, because its vast banks and ditches are clearly outlined against a bright sky, yelling its late prehistoric credentials, a far more aggressive and prominent statement than Moel y Gaer.

Impressive fortifications of Foel Fenlli

The impressive fortifications of Foel Fenlli, as seen from the Moel y Gaer path

Apart from the acres of dark brown heather and the bright spring green of the valley below, there is not a lot of plant life to see at this time of year, although it is very striking without a floral contribution.  The heather, dark chestnut brown and lifeless at this time of year, has been cut into a peculiar pattern of rectangles to encourage new growth, apparently for the benefit of wildlife.  There is not much in the way of shrubs and the trees in the wood are conifer plantations. There are plenty of birds of prey if you have equipped yourself with binoculars.  I look forward to visiting again when the heather is in flower in late summer, which should be stunning.

It is about a 40 minute walk up, although I forgot to take a note of the times in either direction and have the impression that it took me only about half an hour back down, with extra time added for pausing to enjoy the views and for lazy mellowing and exploring the monument at the top.  I am something of a route-marcher, so that needs to be taken into account.  You can walk on beyond Moel Famau in various directions on public footpaths.  Most obviously the path continues, in a much narrower form, across the Clwydian Range, which looks like an absolutely splendid option.  If you have the energy, you can walk to the village of Bodfari, in another pass through the Clwydian Range, whilst the Offa’s Dyke Trail goes all the way to Prestatyn.  In the opposite direction, you can follow the route over Foel Fenlli all the way to Chirk, skirting the dramatic Eglyseg Mountain and passing Castell Dinas Bran and the Pontcysyllte aqueduct.

It was one of those spring days when everyone looked as though they had been released from a cage, shedding winter like a bad memory.  Super.  To read more about the environment and archaeology of the Clwydian Range and Llantysilio Mountains see the PDF produced by the Heather and Hillforts project. 

 

Aerial view of the Clwydian Range. Coflein image 662395. Source: Coflein

 

A sunny spring canal walk south from Waverton to Golden Nook Bridge

Waverton to Golden Nook Bridge

Waverton to Golden Nook Bridge

In late October last year I took advantage of a beautiful sunny day to walk the towpath along the Shropshire Union canal from Waverton towards Chester, which I posted about here.  A couple of days ago the sky was clear and the sun was out, so I grabbed my rucksack and some damp-proof footwear (needed, as it was distinctly soggy underfoot) and headed out to do the section of the canal between Waverton and the wonderfully named Golden Nook Bridge, near the village of Hargrave, to its south. It took about an hour and a quarter each way at a brisk pace, stopping to take photos and chat to other walkers.  It was a rewarding walk, even at this time of year when there were only a few signs of spring beginning to make its mark.  Because of the season, the light meant that the walk provided two different experiences, there and back, with a silvery, ethereal light on the way out and a much more colourful walk on the return leg.  The birdsong was particularly lovely, and I have added a 36-second video at the end that was done purely to catch something of that sound.  I was lucky enough to see a kingfisher, a flash of bright orange as it settled on a branch followed by a flash of bright, electric blue as it took off.  It was too fast for me to photograph, but an absolute treat to see.

Waverton is just off the A41, so very easy to reach.The car park is quite small, with a capacity for about 20 cars, but at 11am there were only a few other cars parked up.  The What3Words address for the car park is ///fingertip.snored.deals.

To start the walk walk from the car park to the canal, just a few steps away, and turn right, heading south.  During the first couple of minutes the canal passes homes on the other side of the canal.  There is a section where it passes a golf course on the opposite side, but it is soon a very rural route with open fields flanking the canal.  Long Lane suddenly appears to the right as you walk south, the quiet stretch of road running parallel to the canal.  Shortly after this, official moorings begin on the other side of the canal, with a line of narrow boats and small cruising boats as far as the eye could see.  I stopped at Golden Nook Bridge and turned back, but the moorings presumably continue all the way to Tattenhall Marina.

St Peter's Church, Waverton

St Peter’s Church, Waverton

In total, there and back, the walk took about 2 1/2 – 3 hours, all on the flat.  Unlike the section towards Chester this part of the towpath is not metalled, and can be very uneven underfoot with tree roots and stones poking through.  It was also quite muddy after several weeks of rainfall.

 

View from Golden Nook Bridge and beyond to the sandstone ridge

View from Golden Nook Bridge and beyond to the sandstone ridge

 

Golden Nook Bridge, looking from the south and returning towards Waverton

Golden Nook Bridge, looking from the south and returning towards Waverton

 

36 seconds of birdsong from one of the canal bridges, taken on my smartphone.  There is a little interference from the breeze, but you can hear the birds giving forth wonderfully.

 

 

 

Snowy fields, copses and lanes between Churton and Aldford

This is a pretty-pics post.  It was a beautiful sunny January day today, after quite a lot of snowfall overnight.  My garden was smothered in snow, and the car was fully shrouded.  Even so, the sunshine was very warm and it was beginning to melt when I left the house at something past 11am, heading for Aldford and returning via the Roman Road (marked on the map at the end as Churton by Aldford FP9), making a good circuit.  The views across the snow-covered fields to the hills to the east and west were lovely, but as always on these snowy walks, sometimes it is the close-up detail that is most lovely.

There is a map showing the route at the end. The whole walk, there and back, takes about an hour and a half, perhaps two hours if you are strolling rather than keeping up a brisk pace.  To see what much of the same walk looked like in April 2021, here’s the earlier post.  For those who like to include a destination on their walks, Churton has the attractive White Horse public house, and Aldford has the larger and venerable Grosvenor Arms.  Both do good food and are warm and comfortable.

If you are interested in the Roman road, it is marked as Churton By Aldford FP9 on the map at the end, along the blue arrow return section of the walk, and I have posted about the road and the walk along the road, in two parts, starting here.

View over the fields to Beeston Crag and the medieval castle

The Welsh foothills

The Welsh foothills

 

The Grosvenor Arms, Aldford

The first section of Roman road

A much clearer section of the Roman road, well used by farm traffic

The route taken from Churton to Aldford (red arrows) and back (blue arrows). The red dot marks the Grosvenor Public House, and the blue dot marks the White Horse. Source of map: Cheshire West and Chester Public Map Viewer.

 

A stunning late autumn sun-filled walk at Bickerton Hill, with lovely views

On Tuesday I took advantage of the beautiful sunshine, wrapped myself up like the Michelin Man, and went on an Iron Age hillfort hunt – Maiden Castle on the National Trust’s Bickerton Hill, to be precise.  The hillfort is, as they often are, rather easier to get to grips with from the air and in plans and illustrations, but it was still really good to see it on the ground.  I have written up Maiden Castle on a separate post here.  The real joy of the day were the deep blue skies and the slanting late autumn sunshine as it cut through the spectrum of reds, copper-oranges and yellows, and put a great golden spotlight on the bright, emerald green of the Cheshire plain below.  Utterly stunning.

The walk leads from the car park up to the ridge that overlooks most dramatically across the west Cheshire plain towards the Clwydian Range, with views too across east Cheshire.  I walked up from the Goldford Lane car park, a gentle slope across red sandy soil and sandstone slabs to the ridge, and then walked first in one direction towards and beyond the hillfort, and then retraced my steps to go along the ridge in the other direction, before returning to the car.  An alternative is to do one of a number of circular walks, one of which is shown below.  Whichever route you take, it is really spectacular on a sunny autumnal day.  Visiting details at the end.

 

 

 

Click to enlarge

Google Map of Bickerton Hill and Maiden Castle

Google Map of Bickerton Hill and Maiden Castle

The hill was designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) in 1979.  Interestingly (and unfortunately) the former heathland environment underwent ecological change when cattle and sheep ceased to be  grazed on the hill during the 1950s, allowing birch, oak and endless swathes of bracken to gain a foothold, killing off the natural bilberries and heather.  Although very beautifully copper-coloured in the autumn sun, the bracken, Pteridium aquilinum, has a number of worrying ecological downsides to it, described here on the “Moorland Association” website.  Most of the silver birches and oaks are still very young, but in places the silver birch in particular forms dense clumps.  The National Trust has now initiated a project of long-term work to re-establish large areas of heathland on the hill.

 

Bickerton Hill nature conservation

Bickerton Hill nature conservation

Visiting is easy.  The hill is just south of the main Wrexham-Broxton-Nantwich road (the A534). There are two car parks, one on either side of the hill.  I used the one off Goldford Lane, which is a large free parking area, with a shallow slope uphill towards the ridge.  The What3Words location is ///device.emulating.upwardly.  The National Trust page for the site can be found at: https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/cheshire-greater-manchester/alderley-edge-and-cheshire-countryside/things-to-do-at-bickerton-hill#rt-visit-maiden-castle.

You can download a leaflet about the hill and the hillfort here, including what looks like an excellent walk taking in Brown Knowl, on the Cheshire Sandstone Ridge website: https://www.sandstoneridge.org.uk/lib/file-323329.pdf

The geology of the sandstone trail can also be investigated on the Cheshire Sandstone Ridge website at: https://www.sandstoneridge.org.uk/geology.html

My video from the top of the ridge: