Category Archives: Conservation

Plas Newydd in Llangollen #6 – The wood carvings

Plas Newydd. RCAHMW

Plas Newydd showing the exterior wood carvings with the porch, scene of the porch-warming party, at centre; and the canopies and carvings around the gothic-styled windows. Source: RCAHMW

 

Introduction

Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Sarah Ponsonby moved into an unassuming Welsh cottage on a hill a short distance from the centre of Llangollen in 1780, having abandoned their respective homes in Ireland to find a new life free from family pressures.  They soon began to transform the cottage and its gardens, and in the early 1800s added an extravagant porch and matching window canopies outside, composed of ornamental wood carvings.  This continued in the interior, where walls, doors, lintels and patches of ceiling, and even stair bannisters and stair treads, were covered with ornamental wooden panels.  The majority of the carvings date to the 17th century and display all the exuberance that characterize the decorative arts of that period.  In 1876, four decades after the deaths of the ladies in 1829 and 1831, the house was purchased by General John Yorke who not only maintained the house, but added a new wing and continued to develop the cottage along the lines envisioned by the ladies.  Although the new wing was demolished due to dry rot, his additions to the cottage survive, primarily the Oak Room where the kitchen had been located and which became a richly decorated drawing room.  Subsequent owners also made changes, but preserved the wood carvings and other decorative features in the original cottage.

Th entrance hall, looking through to the Oak Room

The sheer amount of ornamental carving used as wall coverings in a chaotic patchwork throughout the place is remarkable.  Although it is nearly all unprovenanced, it is an extraordinary survival of period pieces, having escaped woodworm, damp or dry rot, and it is beyond fortunate that a series of owners continued to appreciate and care for this very rare resource.

This post is the 6th in a series about Plas Newydd and looks only at the wood carvings at the house.  It follows on from five other posts about Plas Newydd.

Part 1: The introduction to Plas Newydd, introducing Lady Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby and their lives, tracing what happened to Plas Newydd following the death of Sarah in 1831, and how General John Yorke purchased the house in 1876 and continued to build on the ideas of the two ladies.
Part 2 talks about the patchworks of stained glass at Plas Newydd
Part 3 discusses the Delftware tiles, gilt leather wall hangings and intricate moulded ceilings
Part 4 focuses on the Gorsedd circle in the garden of Plas Newydd, and the Eisteddfod of 1907-8
Part 5 is a short piece looking at the possible links, in material terms, between Brynkinalt and Plas Newydd

 

Twin amphisbaena (mythical creatures with a head at each end)

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Lady Eleanor’s journal and various letters describe how the ladies pursued their new obsession with enthusiasm in a period of changing tastes.  This sort of elaborate carving at Plas Newydd, often showing scantily clad figures and strange creatures, was thought to be antithetical to the newly celebrated neoclassical style.  Much of the now unfashionable furniture and wainscotting (panelling) was stripped out and lost forever.  The remarkable collection, assembled in the years prior to around 1814, preceded the revival of interest in what Philip Larkin called “the Jacobethan” by some years, meaning that the cost of salvaged wood from the period was probably still comparatively low.  The result is somewhat astonishing and the sheer quantity can be baffling.  It is a real patchwork with pieces from many different sources, most of them unrelated, all jammed together to form a single new identity.  It will not be to everyone’s taste but I find it irresistible.

Many of the carvings consist of deconstructed furniture – chair backs, bedsteads, bed posts, cupboard sides, table legs, church chests and pews, roof bosses canopies and more, as well as original pieces of wainscotting, all reassembled into a brand new customized kaleidoscope decorative arts.  A local carpenter was employed to fix the assembled panels to the walls, stairs and ceilings.  Most of it was carved in oak, the most popular material of the Jacobean period when most of these pieces were probably crafted.  It is probable that some Victorian imitations were also thrown in for good measure by General Yorke, suggested by inferior carving in lighter wood that was often associated with the leather wall coverings that he installed, but these too contribute to the sense of a grand medley of different themes, styles and textures.

Background:  Historic carved wood and the grotesque

The unpublished 2001 analysis of the carved wood at Plas Newydd by specialist David Bostwick is available to view at Plas Newydd in a file of useful material in the room known as the library.  It is not yet available online but has been summarized on the Early Tourists in Wales website on the Plas Newydd Wood Carving page by the website’s owner Michael Freeman.  David Bostwick dates the majority of the carvings to the 17th century, corresponding to the late Tudor and Stuart reigns, but he also found examples of earlier 15th and 16th century carvings as well as 19th century pieces that were mainly used to frame older work.  The only period apparently completely unrepresented by the carvings is the 18th century.  The main material used was oak although there is a very small minority of other woods employed.  Two items composed of inlay were also identified. Bostwick’s assessment was that although some pieces were made by skilled craftsmen, others were the mass-produced output of inferior workshops.  Unsurprisingly, he commented that there were clearly multiple sources for most the carvings, although he was able to identify that a small number of pieces had been produced by a single unidentified workshop.

Grotesque composition 1500-1512

Grotesque composition c.1500-1512. V&A Museum no. E.180-1885. Source: Wikimedia

In spite of the eclectic mix of dates and sources, there is a cohesion to the entire collection, that it might be expected to lack given its blatantly patchwork quality.  It coalesces around what has become known as the “grotesque,” a term referring to an artistic style that emanated from Italy and the discovery in 1485 of the Roman paintings in the Domus Aurea (golden palace) in Rome itself, lost after Nero’s suicide and subsequently built over by Trajan’s bath-house.  The 15th century term “grottesca” (plural grotteschi) derived from the idea that the Domus was “grotto-esque” due to the cave-like conditions in which it was found, and the term “grotesque” has since been used retrospectively to refer to any form of art, whether carved, moulded, painted, stitched or otherwise, that focuses on subjects that are in some ways fantastic or exotic, sometimes fearsome, sometimes funny, frequently bizarre and always imaginative.

This popular new style arrived in England particularly via prints from the Flemish lowlands and fused with the earlier but still ever-present Gothic grotesque, developing in secular rather than ecclesiastical contexts, helping country home owners to express their status and sense of their own achievements and grandeur.

It is intriguing how these two strands, the Italian grotesque and the Gothic, carried through so strongly into Elizabethan and Jacobean Britain, and how a lot of these themes dispersed into rural areas and were re-interpreted in vernacular terms, with new and distinctive styles emerging.  It is this fusing of grotesque traditions in the 17th century, re-interpreted with regional inflections, that found its way in such profusion into Plas Newydd.  Whilst by no means all of the Plas Newydd carvings fall into the category of the grotesque, they are conspicuous throughout the house.  At the same time, as the new styles spread throughout England and Wales, Classical motifs were re-interpreted in a vernacular style, with a panache that would undoubtedly have startled the Romans.

The examples at Plas Newydd represent most of the full range of various shapes, themes and subjects produced in the Jacobean period, and include  a wide panoply of characters that were much-loved in medieval imagery and survived well into the Jacobean period, including dragons and wyverns, wildmen, Green men, mythological and fantastical beings, as well as Old Testament, Christian and Chivalric topics.

Caryatid carvingThe Jacobean had its own sell-by date, and as the Baroque, Roccocco and Neoclassical styles replaced it, the darkness of oak panelling and furnishings, and the dominance of ornamental carvings that featured on every available architectural feature and item of furniture seemed clunky, ungainly and and over-ornate.  A new craving for elegance and light saw churches and manor houses being stripped of their wood and reinvented in the new fashionable, lighter styles. This stripping of religious and secular buildings continued well into the Georgian and Victorian periods, and some collectors took advantage of the intermittent availability of this suddenly unfashionable decorative artwork.  It is of course best when a building survives in tact with all of its architectural and decorative features in situ, but it is also a treat when a museum or private collection preserves the decorative artwork of the 17th century.  Plas Newydd is a superb example of an ex situ home for late Elizabethan, Jacobean, and both derivative and similar styles of decorative arts.

Lady Eleanor and Miss Ponsonby seem to have had a really good feel for just that continuum of the bizarre, the humorous, the striking and the fantastic, without being too fussed about either time period or provenance, and a great many carvings that fit within the broad definition of the grotesque are to be found at Plas Newydd, and their lead was followed most capably by General John Yorke.

The Plas Newydd Carvings

Installation of the Plas Newydd Carvings

A number of documents indicate that the collection of the carved wood began sometime in the first decade of the 1800s, when Elizabeth Mavor reports that Sarah had written that their collecting had become a “mania.”  The work, both inside and out, required that the ladies temporarily move all their furniture and other possessions from the ground floor to the upper storeys.  This implies that they had been accumulating the carved wood for some time and had it installed in one hit.  It  must have been chaos!

The squirrel carving at the base of the bannister

The squirrel carving at the base of the bannister

Mavor refers to an October 1814 porch-warming party to celebrate every installation of the carving-rich porch as this was the last major piece of the work that they envisaged.  In August 1816 Lady Maria Josepha Stanley wrote in a letter that “[t]he entrance to the cottage, a Gothic porch, the inner entrance, staircase and kitchen are just fitted up with old carvings of wood.”  In the same year 1816 Captain Henry Hanmer and his wife Sarah described that as well as the staircase and banisters indoors and the carvings around the door outside, the windows had also been done by this time.  That the ladies continued to collect after this date is suggested by references in Eleanor’s journal where she reports on pieces of carving being presented for consideration by various tradesmen in the region.

Both internal and external woodwork was varnished, and the exterior woodwork seems to have been given particularly thick layers of black paint both for decorative reasons and, presumably, to protect it from the Welsh weather.

Plas Newydd exterior today

Plas Newydd exterior today

More chaos must have ensued when General Yorke moved in, built a new wing and remodelled some of the original cottage, including replacing the kitchen with a drawing room called the Oak Room, and adding more carving as well as 17th century leather wall hangings.  In so far as the indoor carvings are concerned, although it is clear that the ladies installed most of the carvings, sometimes it is impossible to know for sure where the installations of the ladies ends and those of the General begins, except for the obvious case of the Oak Room.  The General had a major impact on the exterior, adding the decorative themes to the exterior walls and many of the motifs at the west end of the building.

What motivated the collection of woodwork chosen for Plas Newydd?

Gothic style lancet-shaped windows at Plas Newydd

Gothic style lancet-shaped windows at Plas Newydd

When tourist Anna Lister met Lady Eleanor at Plas Newydd in Tuesday 23 July in 1822 Eleanor told her that “it had been their humble endeavour to make their place as old as they could,” a clear statement of intent.  The ladies seem to have been attracted at first as much by the gothic as by the Jacobean, with their adoption of gothic features like lancet windows and lancet-shaped book cases and their exterior wood porch and canopies.  It was later that they began their collection of elaborately carved wood.  The tastes of the ladies were informed both by their education and by ongoing voracious reading, but there is no reason to believe that there interests were in any way confined by a preference for any one period.  The ladies were also collecting stained glass and beautiful objects, and do not seem to have been unduly influenced by the age of an architectural or artistic style, focusing instead on colour, texture and perhaps subject matter.

Bear moulding at Plas Mawr, Conwy

Bear moulding at Plas Mawr, Conwy

The ladies may have been influenced by their travels.  They had certainly encountered the Elizabethan-Jacobean style in Conwy at the 16th century Plas Mawr, then in a very poor state, when they visited on their travels before settling at Llangollen.  Plas Mawr was described by Sarah in her travel diary in 1778 (copied on the Curious Travellers website), including her comment that  “The Whole House is built & Floord (sic) with Oak.”  A carved bear at Plas Newydd closely resembles one at Plas Mawr, and there are other similarities due to the fashion for popular themes.  The ladies also saw St Deiniol’s Cathedral in Bangor, where Sarah was impressed by the “Roses &c. of Carved Wood.”  They visited Chirk Castle, the Grade-1 listed Halston Hall, built in around 1690, and Wynnstay Hall in Ruabon, part of which was built in the 16th century, although it is not clear what sort of decorative paradigms were in place at the time of the visits.

Bear carving at Plas Newydd

Bear carving at Plas Newydd

 

Brynkinalt rear aspect

Brynkinalt from the rear, showing some of the lancet windows installed in around 1808

A house with which the ladies were very familiar with was their friend Lady Dungannon’s Brynkinalt, completed in 1612.  This underwent seriously remodelling in 1808, and it seems as though this was both inside and out, with most of the earlier decorative scheme replaced by the more fashionable neoclassical, but the ladies may have seen it before the remodelling was started, and they may have been impressed by the Gothic features that were added during the remodel.  At least one small pane of stained glass at Plas Newydd  seems to have come from Brynkinalt, as an almost identical light remains in situ at the house.

Wyvern stained glass Plas Newydd

A wyvern in a stained glass patchwork at Plas Newydd, mirroring one at Brynkinalt, from where it may have been sourced

Detail of St Collen’s Church roof over the nave, Llangollen

One example that was (and remains) very close at hand, and which crosses the boundaries between the medieval period and the English and Welsh Renaissance by having much in common with both periods, is the roof of St Collen’s Church in Llangollen.  This contains a rich and fascinating mixture of religious and pagan motifs, much like the subject matter shown on Romanesque capitals and medieval misericords.  Although much of the church underwent serious modification in the Victorian period, the ladies would probably have visited it before the alterations, and would certainly have seen the roof.

Nothing really leaps out to explain why, in 1814 when Eleanor was 75 years old and Sarah 59, and 34 years after they had moved in to Plas Newydd, they were suddenly “seized” with a “mania” for collecting carved oak in the Elizabethan-Jacobean style, much of it featuring a wide variety of grotesques and fantastic creatures.  I thought that it might have something to do with purchasing the house, which they formerly rented, but that did not happen until 1819, five years after the peak of their collection “mania.”  Perhaps it was something as simple as a single first purchase that grew into a desire to source more of the same that grew into a passion for collecting.

 

Themes in the Plas Newydd carvings

All sculptural elements in the medieval period acted as symbols and emblems that could be read and understood, and by the later 16th century ornamental country house carvings and plasterwork usually formed a connected series of ideas and messages that needed to be decoded.  Although the message and themes might be relatively obvious, quite often the decoding was often deliberately enigmatic, requiring a good education, creativity and a willingness to bend the intellect towards deciphering hidden meanings.  In this sense they could be like visual riddles and acrostics. Once a collection was split up and sold off in parts, the intended message of the combined visual clues would have been lost.  The lack of context, meaning  that there is no provenance, no narrative context to explain meaning, and a complete absence of chronological integrity means that the Plas Newydd carvings cannot be understood as a coherent assemblage of meaning.  However, although the broader subtleties and grander narratives may be lost, some of the general themes can be identified.  David Bostwick picks out a list of specific items represented in the carvings.  This includes a mixture of secular and religious themes, including:

  • Human faces
  • Armorial shields
  • Birds
  • Animals
  • Flowers and other plants
  • Dragons, wyverns, amphisbaena and other mythological creatures
  • Male atlantes and female caryatids (human figures supporting architectural components)
  • Green Men
  • Symmetrical patterns
  • Ecclesiastical themes

David Bostwick observes that there are comparatively few geometric patterns, very popular in the period, with only 4  linenfold panels, although these should have been quite widely available at the time that the ladies began collecting. At Plas Newydd the 44 dragons identified by Bostwick are clear indicators that the grotesque was a major feature of the wood carving at Plas Newydd, but there are an incredible variety of other characters, including 103 atlantes and caryatids (figures supporting architectural elements). Ecclesiastical themes are mainly confined to the porch doorway, but there are others in the building, and the doorway at the west end shows religious themes.  Bostwick suggests that some of the Biblical scenes represented at Plas Newydd were Flemish imports.  This would not be at all unexpected, as a lot of art work and furniture was being imported from the Netherlands and the Lowe Countries at this time.

This suggests that the ladies made choices both in terms of the themes selected, rather than collecting whatever was available, and in the placement of their collection.

 

The quality of the carvings

Plas Newydd door with poor quality carvings

Plas Newydd door with inferior quality carvings

The quality of the carving is very variable.  In this section of the door into the spare bedroom, two botanical arrangements flank the startled looking woman in the centre.  The two botanical arrangements should in theory be identical, but the clumsiness of the execution has lead to flattened curves in the example on the left, and a failure to create a mirrored pattern. It looks like a practice exercise rather than something that would be sold to a happy customer.  Beneath the lady is a more accomplished, although still not perfect, attempt at mirroring on two sides of a central motif.

Most of the carvings come from items of furniture, and are very variable in quality, but some show great skill.  A few examples show quite complex scenes, and demonstrate the versatility of wood as a medium for expression.

As much as anything else, this great variability of skill and quality of craftsmanship demonstrates the wide variety of sources from which the carvings must have been sourced.

 

Sources for the Plas Newydd carvings

Plas NewyddThe 2001 survey by David Bostwick states that the Plas Newydd carvings were clearly sourced from multiple locations, although he detected the work of a single workshop amongst some of the pieces, suggesting that these at least came from the same place, whether that was a single building or a geographical area.  None of the sources for their carvings were recorded by the ladies or Richard Yorke themselves in the surviving documentation.  This may be because they saw no value in recording where where any of it was sourced from, seeing it as purely decorative rather than historical, but it may equally be that a separate record was maintained by each owner and that these have now been lost along with a lot of other paperwork.  Provenance is therefore a general problem with the Plas Newydd carvings, and it does not seem as though this is going to be resolved in the near future.

All of the carvings, whether installed by the ladies or General Yorke represent salvage – materials that were carved for somewhere else and have been brought here to be incorporated into an entirely new, patchwork-type arrangement.  Some of the carvings chosen for the exterior have more religious themes than in the interior, suggesting an ecclesiastical origin, whereas those in the interior look as though they were more likely to have been in secular contexts.

Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby

In some cases Eleanor’s journal provides the name of the people who supplied or offered pieces but not where the pieces themselves came from.  For example on 16th February 1819 Eleanor records that the vicar of Ruthin the Reverend Richard Newcombe sent them the gift of a “a beautiful Lion couchant carved in oak – some centuries old.”  Sir Foster Cunliffe of Acton Park (near Wrexham) provided an “old carved oak head,” mentioned on 27th February 1819.  On 12th April 1819 she wrote that “The so long expected hamper sent by Miss Dorothy Wilmot Sitwell to Liverpool was brought this morning from Chester . . . it contained fine old oak carving the most ancient & curious of all we possess.”  In none of these cases is it mentioned which locations had supplied the offerings.

An exception is the identification in the journal on 4th April 1819 in which she says that a Captain and Mrs Hanmer had sent them “some fine carvings of Gibbons from the old stalls of the Knights of the Garter in St Georges Chappel [sic].”  The owner of the Early Tourists in Wales site contacted the Archivist and Chapter Librarian of St George’s Chapel in Windsor, who informed him that an altar rail in the chapel was paid for by a Mir Gibbons in 1681 but that no other work connected with the name is known to be there.  Eleanor may have thought that the work was that of Grinling Gibbons, the famous wood carver, but there is no evidence to support this.

Several of Eleanor’s journal entries indicate that local people were aware of their interest in carved wood and contacted them to offer any examples that might interest them. There are 24 references to carvings acquired in 1819 and 4 in the 1821 journal.  As mentioned above, these are the only two journals surviving after 1807, so the record is extremely incomplete, but they do demonstrate that local people were supplying them with odds and ends: Roberts the Glazier, John Davis the Shoemaker, Roberts the Shrewsbury Gardener, Thomas Davies the Glazier, J.Gill the upholsterer, Edward the Marble Mason, and Brace the Carrier, as well as “a poor woman from Glynn.”  The ladies were obviously able to use their tradesmen’s presence in many buildings in the area to source items of interest.  The implication is that they were purchased, although Eleanor only makes this explicit once when she says that they “purchased some fine old oak carving from a woman near Corwen.” One journal entry mentions that some of their stained glass came a dealer and perhaps some of the carvings that were not supplied by visitors or local tradesmen were sourced in the same way, although no purchases are listed in the accounts so diligently kept by Sarah Ponsonby.

Two of the third party comments about sources of carvings were made whilst the ladies were still alive, and the information may or may not have been imparted by one or other of the ladies.  In 1819, for example,  Philadelphia Cotton’s Tour Through North Wales mentioned that “a large piece from Speke hall Lancashire” had been taken there by Colonel Norris “plunderer of Stirling Castle after the battle of Flodden.”  In 1827 traveller Eliza Rand recorded that she had been told that the Duchess of St Albans had provided the ladies “with a great deal of the carving.”  Neither, however mention where this information originated from or whether it had been verified in any way.  It is said that Arthur Wellesley (later the Duke of Wellington) supplied the two lions that still help to hold up the porch.

In General John Yorke’s 1882 publication Plas Newydd as it was and as it is; with A Catalogue of its contents; and a few reminiscences of Lady Eleanor Butler and the Hon Sarah Ponsonby by one who received their welcome in his younger days, he says that “All statesmen and nobles paid tribute and homage at Plas Newydd, and none ventured a second visit without bringing a contribution of carved oak which was the regular passport,” a comment that is unverified by anything that the ladies themselves wrote in the surviving journals, accounts or letters, but which has been repeated by writers ever since.  An  oak pew installed in a recess in the Oak Room was said to have been used by the ladies in Llangollen Church until it was transferred to the house.

Other items that General Yorke identifies are a portal door which he says is composed of oak from both Llangollen and Llantysilio churches, the latter also said to have provided the doorway below the west gable.  Llantysilio church did undergo the addition of a new transept in 1718, but that was a century before the ladies started collecting.  The Victorian alterations did not begin until 1869.  It is difficult to see how, unless repairs were made that lead bits of furniture or panelling to be rejected, the ladies could have acquired carvings from the church.  It was, however, conveniently local.  The claims that some of the carvings came from St Collen’s in Llangollen do not seem too far-fetched given the splendid roof carvings in the church, and the fact that the church underwent many modifications in the 19th century.  The General also identifies a number of other sources, from as far afield as London, but these are unverified.

Wherever they came from, 17th century carvings had gone out of fashion in the 18th century and it was not until the second quarter of the 19th century that the revival of what John Betjemen referred to as the “Jacobethan” became popular.  This may mean that there was only a very limited market for the type of ornately decorated carving collected by the ladies, and that this was not outrageously expensive, meaning both that they could afford to purchase locally unwanted salvage, and that it made for an inexpensive gift from others.  Much carved woodwork with family arms and motifs would be retained by families even when they upgraded their decorative schemes, and this would be less likely to be circulated, which would account for why there is so little of this at Plas Newydd.

General Yorke

General Yorke bought Plas Newydd in 1876.  Although he had mentioned various sources for carvings collected by the ladies, interestingly and disappointingly there is nothing to indicate where General Yorke himself sourced his antique purchases.  Perhaps his papers were lost or were disposed of at the time of his death.  By the time he bought the house in 1876 the trade in architectural salvage was in full swing, with the area around Oxford Street and Wardour Street in London becoming the English locus for dealing in architectural imports that could be broken down into cargo-sized components.  Italy and Germany provided some supplies, but London’s imports were mainly from France and the Low Countries, and mainly from ecclesiastical buildings.  John Harris’s work on the subject provides an eye-opening insight into the sheer scale of the trade, which soon moved beyond exporting to Britain and began to export to the United States.

General Yorke’s Oak Room in 1905. Source: People’s Collection Wales

When he arrived at Plas Newydd with many more financial resources available to him than the two ladies could have realistically dreamed of, he may have looked to a very wide network of dealers for his acquisitions.  It would certainly not be difficult for General Yorke to have made arrangements with both London and more local centres to acquire sufficient carvings, painted leather and plaster to furnish not only the remaining gaps in the cottage but also in his ambitious new wing.  His main innovation at the original cottage was the Oak Room, with its richly carved oak features and its painted and leather wall hangings, which he introduced elsewhere in the cottage as well.  Built in what was the kitchen when the ladies were alive, the oak room became both a drawing room and another display area for his collections.  An article dated to 1890 in The Builder, vol.59, suggested that in the Oak Room an elaborate chairs, which it refers to as The Confessional Throne, came from a Spanish monastery.  The article states that the second chair, almost as elaborate, was made out of an oak tree from Sulgrave in Northamptonshire.  The reference to Sulgrave in particular is very specific, but again there is nothing in the article to suggest how the its author obtained this information and whether there is any substance to it.

There remains one of many puzzles.  A reference on the Coflein website states unambiguously that part of the oak roof of St Derfel’s Church in Llandderfel was brought to Plas Newydd after a fire.  The Coflein account is quite comprehensive, fairly well cited, and seems convincing: “The oak roof was damaged by fire in 1758. A small portion of it was made into a chair, presently situated in the sanctuary, but most of it was removed to Plas Newydd, Llangollen.”  But 1758 was 22 years before the ladies arrived, so either the date is wrong, because there is no reason why the owners of the cottage would have wanted bits of a wooden roof before the arrival of the ladies, or the roof was stored elsewhere before being moved to Plas Newydd two decades later, which seems very improbable.  Alternatively, the reference to Plas Newydd was presumably incorrect.  Thoughts anyone?

Future research

Oriental carving

Oriental carving

The carvings are thoroughly enjoyable in their own right, but they also present a number of puzzles, and there is considerable potential for future research.

Although at first glance it is difficult to see that some of the items are related, some of the pieces dotted around the house are clearly parts of the same piece of furniture, which may help to consolidate carvings into batches to reduce the sense of it being an unrelated mixture of pieces.  This may help to approach the as-yet unanswered questions about which workshops and which individuals were responsible for the carvings.  David Bostwick has suggested that idiosyncrasies associated with certain workshops are visible in the style and the motifs selected.  Certain styles of distinctive motif, such as types of dragon, wyvern, amphisbaena and other dragon-like creatures, caryatids and atlantes (male caryatids), and natural animal life may belong to vernacular traditions of certain regions, which may help in this task.  Investigations of the records of local church and large nearby houses such as Brynkinalt, particularly those known to have undergone renovation or restyling in the 18th century may shed some light on some sources of more skilled pieces of carving.

The house is generally seen as a reflection of the work of Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby, but there are questions to ask around this.  General Yorke, for example, was responsible for converting the cottage kitchen into the Oak Room, and added various pieces of carved woodwork elsewhere inside and outside the house.  It is also possible that subsequent owners also had made repairs and minor changes.  The way in which Plas Newydd evolved under different owners is not well understood and it would be useful to improve this knowledge of the chronology of the house and all of its decorative arts.

 

Final comments

There are more questions than there are answers about the collection of wood panelling, pieces of furniture and panels made of furniture, as well as some of the more splendid sculptural items at Plas Newydd.

The probability is that the majority of the carvings at Plas Newydd were originally components of furniture and wainscotting, mainly from residential buildings and some ecclesiastical buildings that were either re-envisioned, stripping out old woodwork to be replaced by new ideas of interior decoration, or demolished. Most of it dates to the 17th century, but there are examples from earlier periods as well as 19th century pieces.  Wealthy country homes and churches were both contenders for providing the carvings.  Churches were often simply remodelled rather than demolished, stripped out but saved, but some of the grand country houses of the Tudor-Stuart periods required expensive maintenance and often suffered terminal neglect as owners found themselves unable to keep up with costs.  The number of late Elizabethan and Jacobean buildings that survive are few and far between, but furnishings and decorative features have experienced a better survival rate simply by virtue of their portability.  An extreme example is Emral Hall in West Cheshire, near Worthenbury, where the ballroom, complete with its marvellous ceiling, was removed just before demolition in the mid-1930s and was reinstalled in Portmeirion’s Town Hall.

Some individual pieces are quite extraordinary, harking back to ideas derived from the Italian Grotteschi and the use of grotesque motifs in the western European Romanesque and the British Gothic.  Some later pieces may have been commissioned in the 19th century in order to piece the patchwork together.  However there is almost no specific provenance for any of it, and there is no indication why, in or just before 1814, Lady Eleanor and Miss Ponsonby suddenly began to collect it.   In spite of these puzzles, it remains a splendid collection of diverse pieces featuring figurative and natural themes, fantastical animals, geometrical patterns, and the occasional line of text.  Although it makes a stunning collective impression, it is also rewards taking your time to introduce yourself to as many of the individual pieces as you have time to view.  Together with all the other decorative arts in the house, the impact is quite astonishing and very memorable.

 

 

With thanks

Early Tourists in Wales Plas Newydd

Early Tourists in Wales – The Plas Newydd Carved Wood page

With sincere thanks to Michael Freeman’s for his Plas Newydd pages on the Early Tourists in Wales website, where all the principal sources for information on Plas Newydd carvings have been collated and made accessible online, some of them not otherwise available either in published or digitized form.  I was very kindly given carte blanche to use that information in my own research into the history of Plas Newydd.  A very useful summary of DavidBostwick’s findings can be found on the Early Tourists in Wales website on the Plas Newydd Wood Carving page, which is particularly useful as Bostwick’s paper is not currently available online (although it is available to peruse as a hard copy at Plas Newydd).

 

 

 

Sources

See part 1 for a general introduction to Plas Newydd, including visiting details and a general bibliography.  The sources mentioned below are specific to this post.

Online catalogues, National Library of Wales archives and Plas Newydd on-site information

There are records at the National Library of Wales in Aberystwyth that have not yet been digitized and are therefore not available online. I have not had the chance to go to Aberystwyth in person, so these have not been consulted for this post.  Much of it has been expertly summarized on the Early Tourists in Wales website.

The 1792 catalogue of the titles in the Plas Newydd library belonging to Lady Eleanor and Miss Ponsonby includes volumes in English, French and Italian.  They also, but possibly at a later date as they are not recorded in the catalogue, owned titles in Spanish.  This is available on the National Library of Wales website at https://viewer.library.wales/6043853#?xywh=-2808%2C-244%2C9066%2C4877

The 1832 auction catalogue that sold off the portable contents of Plas Newydd following the death of Sarah Ponsonby, two years after Eleanor Butler’s own death, has been very usefully précised on the Early Tourists in Wales website at https://sublimewales.wordpress.com/attractions/mansions-and-grounds/ladies-of-llangollen/ownership/auction-catalogues-1832/

In addition, Plas Newydd has information in loose-leaf folders that can be leafed through on a visit.  As well as samples from Lady Eleanor’s journals, these include David Bostwick’s paper about the carvings.

 

Books, booklets and papers

d’Alembert, Jean Le Rond 1751. Melanges de litterature, d’histoire, et de philosophie.
https://ia802207.us.archive.org/1/items/MelangesDArcheologieDHistoireEt2/Melanges_d_archeologie_d_histoire_et_2.pdf

Andrews, John 1989. British Antique Furniture. Price Guide and Reasons for Values. Antique Collectors’ Club

Aymonino A, and M. Guerci 2016.  The Architectural Transformation of Northumberland House under the 7th Duke of Somerset and the1st Duke and Duchess of Northumberland, 1748–86. The Antiquaries Journal, p.315–361

Bebb, Richard 2007 .  Welsh Furniture 1240-1950. Volume 1. Saer Books

Bebb, Richard 2007.  Welsh Furniture 1240-1950. Volume 2. Saer Books

Brewer, J.J. 1825. The Beauties of Ireland. Being original delineations, topographical, historical, and biographical, of each county. Sherwood, Jones and Co.
https://archive.org/details/b29350505_0001/page/416/mode/2up?q=kilkenny

Ching, Francis D.K. 1995. A Visual Dictionary of Architecture. John Wiley and Sons

Chinnery, Victor 1979, 2016 (Revised Edition). Oak Furniture. The British Tradition. Antique Collectors’ Club.

Edwards, Ralph 1964. The Shorter Dictionary of English Furniture. Country Life

Fiske, John and Lisa Freeman 2005.  Living with Early Oak. The Belmont Press

Fleming, John and Hugh Honour 1989 (2nd edition). Penguin Dictionary of Decorative Arts. Viking.

Harris, John. 2007. Moving Rooms. The Trade in Architectural Salvages. Yale University Press

Hearn, Karen (ed.) 1995. Dynasties: painting in Tudor and Jacobean England, 1530-1630. Introduction, p.9-10. Rizzoli International Publications

Hopkins, Owen 2012. Reading Architecture, A Visual Lexicon. Laurence King Publishing

Hubbard, Edward and Pevsner, N. 1986. The Buildings of Wales. Clwyd (Denbighshire and Flintshire).  Penguin Books

Lupu, Mircea-Ioan 2013. Grotesque as Aesthetic Identity: From Medieval Illumination to Contemporary Art. EIRP Proceedings, Volume 8, Number 1, 2013, pp. 263-278(16)
https://www.academia.edu/46975596/Grotesque_as_Aesthetic_Identity_From_Medieval_Illumination_to_Contemporary_Art

Mavor, Elizabeth , 2011 (previously published 1971, 1979). The Ladies of Llangollen. A Study in Romantic Friendship. Moonrise Press. (Mavor does not always cite her sources for particular comments cited, attributed to the ladies and others, and often widely quoted by other authors)

Mavor, Elizabeth 1984.  Life with the Ladies of Llangollen. Viking (hardback).  N.B. This was published, word for word and page for page, image for image, in Penguin in 1986 in paperback as A Year with the Ladies of Llangollen.  Do not make my mistake of buying the same book twice just because the titles are different!
The format is rather strange, in that the books list first by month and then by year, so all the journal entries for January in any given year are listed in the first chapter, and then February and so on.  I suppose it gives a sense of how each month in a year passed, but it gives no sense of the cumulative passing of time over the lives of the ladies. 

Mowl, Timothy 1993.  Elizabethan and Jacobean Style. Phaidon Press.

Ogle, George 1737.  Antiquities explained. Being a collection of figured gems illustrated by similar descriptions taken from the classics.
https://archive.org/details/bim_eighteenth-century_antiquities-explained-b_ogle-george_1737/mode/2up

Osborne, Harold (ed.) 1970.  The Oxford Companion to Art. Clarendon Press

Osborne, Harold (ed.) 1975.  The Oxford Companion to the Decorative Arts. Clarendon Press

Squire, Michael 2012. “Fantasies so varied and bizarre”: The Domus Aurea, the Renaissance, and the “grotesque”’, in (eds.) M. Dinter and E. Buckley, The Blackwell Companion to the Age of Nero Wiley-Blackwell, p.444–464

Sinclaire, Catherine 1838.  Hill and Valley, or Hours in England and Wales, 1833 (a second edition was released in 1839).

Singleton, Esther 1907. Dutch and Flemish Furniture. The McClure Company
https://www.gutenberg.org/files/54552/54552-h/54552-h.htm

Turner, Rick 2008 (revised edition, first published 1997).  Plas Mawr, Conwy. Cadw

Wells-Cole, Anthony 1997.  Art and Decoration in Elizabethan and Jacobean England.  Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art / Yale University Press

Veysey, A. Geoffrey and David Freeman 1988.  Plas Newydd and the Ladies of Llangollen. Glyndwr District Council.  (Based on the booklet by Veysey, County Archivist for Clwyd County Council, published in 1980.  Two sections were substantially updated by Freeman in 1988 – the Oak Room and the Ladies’ Bedchamber).

Wainwright, Clive 1989. The Romantic Interior – The British Collector at Home 1750–1850. Yale Center for British Art -Studies in British Art, Yale University Press

Wither, George 1635. A collection of emblemes, ancient and moderne. London
https://archive.org/details/collectionofembl00withe/page/n11/mode/2up

Zamperini, Alessandra. 2008. Ornament and the Grotesque. Fantastical Decoration from Antiquity to Art Nouveau’, Thames and Hudson, London and New York—

Websites

Based In Churton
Grotesques and Misericords. By Andie Byrnes, various dates.  Series of posts looking at mainly medieval Grotesques and misericords in the Chester-Wrexham area, plus one example from Tong in Shropshire.
https://basedinchurton.co.uk/category/grotesques-and-misericords/

Building
From the archives: The demolition of Northumberland House, 1874. By Tom Lowe, 3rd February 2023
https://www.building.co.uk/our-history-180-years-of-building/from-the-archives-the-demolition-of-northumberland-house-1874/5121589.article

Cadw
Plas Mawr
https://cadw.gov.wales/visit/places-to-visit/plas-mawr
Rug Chapel
https://cadw.gov.wales/visit/places-to-visit/rug-chapel

Coflein
St Derfel’s Church, Llandderfel
https://coflein.gov.uk/en/site/43870
Emral Hall, Worthenbury
https://coflein.gov.uk/en/site/35805/
Town Hall, Portmeirion
https://coflein.gov.uk/en/site/407060/

Curious Travellers
Anne Lister’s diary, tour of North Wales 11-27 July 1822
https://editions.curioustravellers.ac.uk/doc/0023?ref=pe0954#footnoteref53
Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby, Account of a Journey in Wales; Perform’d in May 1778 By Two Fugitive Ladies. Edited with an introduction by Elizabeth Edwards in Curious Travellers
https://editions.curioustravellers.ac.uk/pages/show.html?document=0004.xml

Early Tourists in Wales
Plas Newydd home page
https://sublimewales.wordpress.com/attractions/mansions-and-grounds/ladies-of-llangollen/
Plas Newydd – Carved Wood
https://sublimewales.wordpress.com/attractions/mansions-and-grounds/ladies-of-llangollen/plas-newydd-the-house/plas-newydd-carved-wood/
Plas Newydd – Illustrations
https://sublimewales.wordpress.com/attractions/mansions-and-grounds/ladies-of-llangollen/plas-newydd-the-house/plas-newydd-illustrations/

English Heritage
Stokesay Castle
https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/stokesay-castle/things-to-do/

Historic England
Interior view of the Solar at Stokesay Castle, showing a fireplace with carved wooden panelling above the mantle and a table in the foreground with drawings and plans of the castle
https://historicengland.org.uk/images-books/photos/item/UXC01/01/01/0065/32

Kilkenny Castle
http://www.kilkennycastle.ie
Explore the Castle
https://www.kilkennycastle.ie/about/explore-the-castle-new/
Audio Guide
https://www.kilkennycastle.ie/audio-guide/
Visitor’s Guide leaflet
https://www.kilkennycastle.ie/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Visitors-Leaflet-English_compressed.pdf

The National Archives
The Ladies of Llangollen. By Hanna Griffiths.  Tuesday 8th February 2022
https://blog.nationalarchives.gov.uk/the-ladies-of-llangollen/

The National Library of Wales
Plasnewydd Library Catalogue 1792
https://viewer.library.wales/6043853#?xywh=-2355%2C-1%2C8159%2C4390&cv=

The Open University – UK Reading Experience Database
Lady Eleanor Butler
https://www.open.ac.uk/Arts/reading/UK/browse_reader_readings.php?s=Butler&f=Lady+Eleanor

Ornapedia Decorative Arts Glossary
https://www.ornapedia.org/glossary

The Public Domain Review
Flemish Mask Designs in the Grotesque Style (1555)
https://publicdomainreview.org/collection/flemish-mask-designs-in-the-grotesque-style-1555/

smarthistory
The rediscovery and impact of the Domus Aurea, in Smarthistory, by Jessica Mingoia, May 14, 2023
https://smarthistory.org/rediscovery-domus-aurea-renaissance-grotesque/.

Plas Newydd after 1814. Source: People’s Collection Wales

 

The excellent Hooton Park Hangars Aircraft Museum on the Wirral

Comper Swift G-ACGL. The Comper Aircraft Company was based at Hooton Park in the inter-war years

With many thanks to the Heritage Open Days this year, I stumbled across this fabulous gem of an aircraft museum on the Wirral at Hooton.  Hooton Park Hangars, owned and run by Hooton Park Trust, is sited on a former aerodrome, where the First World War Grade 2* aircraft hangars have been restored and two interlinked hangars now house a museum of aircraft and aircraft engines as well as other means of transport, including a military helicopter, a Chester Corporation tram, bicycles, and a number of cars, as well as model aircraft and memorabilia.  There are steps leading up to the cockpits of some aircraft and in one case a ladder allows visitors to enter one of the cockpits, which gives a sense of the incredibly cramped conditions and the range of dials, levers and pedals that help to navigate the plane.  Visiting information is at the end of this post.  Much of the information on this post has been taken from information boards around the hangars, from volunteers who kindly chatted to me about the site, and the Hooton Park Hangars website’s history pages as well as from the sources listed at the end.

Example of some of the signage available (this for the Comper Swift shown above)

 

The 1788 Hooton Hall.

The 1788 Hooton Hall. Source: Lost Heritage

Hooton Hall was an estate owned by the Stanley family.  It was built in 1788 to replace the existing house built at the end of the 15th century by the 5th Baronet Sir William Stanley, who employed architect Samuel Wyatt for the task.  Seventy years later it had to be sold to pay off gambling debts and was bought by banker Richard Christopher Naylor who made various changes and added a racecourse.  He moved away in 1875 when the Manchester Ship Canal was routed through the parkland, but retained ownership of the house and land.  At the start of the First World War both the house and land were requisitioned by the Army, which converted the house to the hospital and built barracks on the racecourse.  The house was probably in a fairly abysmal state when it was knocked down in 1932, initially remaining in the ownership of the military before it eventually came into the hands of Hooton Park Trust.

Spitfire PR.XIX PM651

Propeller of VS390 Spitfire PR.XIX PM651, usually stationed at RAF Woodvale near Formby on Merseyside and restored by the RAF Museum at Cosford. It came to Hooton Park in April 2026.

As well as the hospital and barracks, several hangars were built on the Hooton Park site, now Grade 2* listed, originally as a plant for assembling American-built aircraft, but instead became a training centre for pilots destined for the Western Front.  The hangar in which the museum is located is single storey, 16 bays in length, with iron casement windows separated by brick uprights and with corner pylons of brick (one of which was extended upwards to become a fire watch observation post).  An interior arched brick arcade divides the hangar into two halves.  The corrugated roofs of each half were supported by Belfast roof trusses of latticed wood which collapsed over a decade ago, but have since been replaced by new Belfast trusses.  the hangars were built by Holland, Henna and Cubitt Ltd to a design by the Royal Engineers, whilst the roof trusses were built by D. Anderson and Co., Belfast. The training facility was closed in 1919 when the training facility was moved to RAF Shotwick.

In the inter-war years the aerodrome was bought by a Mr G.H. Dawson who rented space to the Liverpool and District Aero Club, which became one of the most successful in the country.  At the same time, the aerodrome also became the home for two air manufacturing companies, the Comper Aircraft Co. and Popjay Air Motors. In 1927 the aerodrome was purchased to become Liverpool’s main airport, in spite of being on the Wirral before moving to Speke on the other side of the Mersey in 1930, where it remains.

Hooton Park aircraft Hangar

Hooton Park aircraft Hangar on a chilly wet day, showing the brick elements and the 16-bay structure

At the outbreak of the Second World War Hooton Park became the base for 610 ‘County of Chester’ Squadron and in the 1940s it returned to its role assembling aircraft from the U.S. At the same time the Civilian Repair Organization was employed to inspect and overhaul existing aircraft.  The aerodrome was also used during the war as an important role in aerial reconnaissance with the goal of locating submarines.  In June 1946, No 610 Squadron reformed at Hooton and in 1949, 663 Squadron formed at the site.  Hooton Park finally closed as an aerodrome in 1957.  Subsequently Shell created a base at Hooton Park to carry out experimental work on car fuels.  In 1962, Vauxhall Motors purchased the site and based their motor works at Hooton Park.

Hooton Park Hangars roof collapse HootPkTrust

Hooton Park Hangars after the roof collapse, showing the wooden lattice trusses made in Belfast. Source: Hooton Park Trust

The Hooton Park Trust was founded in 2000 to restore the hangars, originally built during the Second World War where they served the RAF Hooton airfield.  This was not a lightweight project. The hangar roofs had collapsed in 2011 and just clearing the rubble cost £60,000, partly because of the asbestos used in the roofing material, which required special disposal measures.  The new hangar roofs were built with modern, durable materials using the same methods as the originals.  Do take the time to look upwards – the trusses are as attractive as they are impressive as you can see in the above photograph.  The aircraft and other vehicles are a fine mix of different types, a mixture of civil and military, all with some connection to the aerodrome or the use of the hangars after the aerodrome had closed.

Many of the aircraft in the hangars were supplied by the Hooton Park Trust, to which aircraft have also been loaned.  The Trust makes space in the museum available to the The Aeroplane Collection (TAC), first founded in 1962 so that they can both display and work on aircraft in the hangar.  On a visit you are very like to see both Hooton Park Trust volunteers and TAC members working on the aircraft in the museum. In 2024 several aircraft and other items were transferred to the museum following the closure of a display hall in the Manchester Museum of Science.

 

G-AFIU Parker CA-4 Parasol

G-AFIU Parker CA-4 Parasol

 

This is very much a living museum, with work constantly being carried out on the aircraft stored in the hangars.  As well as the volunteers who were on hand to answer questions, there were plenty of engineers in overalls with their heads bent over engines, engaging in restoration work.

G-EBZM Avro 594 Avian 111A

G-EBZM Avro 594 Avian 111A

Replica of BAPC.6 Avro Triplane

Replica of BAPC.6 Avro Triplane

Full scale replica of a Spitfire MK IX

Full scale replica of a Spitfire MK IX

Gloster Meteor painted to represent aircraft WH127 of 610 Squadron based at Hooton

Another example of signage in the museum, this providing information about the Meteor shown above

 

Cockpit of a Fairey Gannet T.2. Steps on the other side allow you to climb up and get a good look into the cockpit.

Inside the Faery gannet T.2 cockpit

Sikorsky R-4B Hoverfly

Sikorsky R-4B Hoverfly

G-ADAH DH.98A Dragon Rapide “Pioneer”

xxx

G-EBZM Avro 594 Avian 111A

G-EBZM Avro 594 Avian 111A

Chipmunk 22

G-AOUO DHC.1 Chipmunk 22

As well as aircraft and engines there are also road vehicles, including a tram, bicycles and Vauxhall cars, all of which were contemporary with some of the aircraft in the hangars or were produced after the aerodrome had gone out of use.  The Shell Eco Car was a particularly surprising vehicle!

 

Chester No.4 tram

Visiting

The best source of visiting information is the Hooton Park Hangars website.  Opening days are usually to Saturdays and the last Sunday of the month, and different activities are available on the Sundays, so do check the website to see what is going on. There are events throughout the summer, and these are worth keeping an eye out for.  You can also find their social media presences on the website. There are toilets and a café on the site, although note that at the time of writing (September 2026) the café is only available on Sundays.  It is very easy to find by car, although parking is limited, and on a Sunday there is a vintage bus to take you from Hooton Station.  It is all on the flat, so very accessible for those with unwilling legs, and there is disabled parking. The museum closes for the season on 31st October, so you will need to get your skates on if you want to go this year.

Sources:

Much of the information on this post has been taken from information boards around the hangars, from the volunteers who kindly chatted to me about the site, and the Hooton Park Hangars website’s history pages as well as from the sources listed below.

Historic England
Northern General Service Hangar (Building 16) , Hooton Park Aerodrome
https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1075377?section=official-list-entry

Lost Heritage
Hooton Hall
https://www.lostheritage.org.uk/houses/lh_cheshire_hootonhall.html

Vintage Aviation News
Discovering Hooton Park Hangars: Northwest England’s Living Aviation Heritage Museum. By Ian Doyle
https://vintageaviationnews.com/aviation-museum-news/discovering-hooton-park-hangars-northwest-englands-living-aviation-heritage-museum.html

 

 

Walking at the magnificent Iron Age ‘Old Oswestry’ hillfort

This post looks at the walk around the hillfort and its ramparts, with its section of Wat’s Dyke at its foot, and lovely views across the landscape.  Parking details are at the end.

Old Oswestry from the southwest, via the footpath across the field from Gatacre car park

Old Oswestry from the southwest, via the footpath across the field from Gatacre car park

This makes a great day trip with a visit to the Whittington Castle (see Wikipedia), only 2.5km away to the east, or the market town of Oswestry just to the south (see the official Visit Oswestry site here).  It is free of charge to visit at any time, with one main parking area and a small lay-by.  See Visiting details at the end.

Signage from Old Oswestry

Signage from Old Oswestry. Click to expand.

Old Oswestry hillfort is a magnificent archaeological site and local landmark dating to the 4th to 7th centuries BC during the Iron Age with terrific views over the surrounding lowland landscape.  Seen from above the pentagonal shape is particularly distinctive, and you notice this whilst walking, as it is one of the few hillforts at which you reach corners.  It is also undulating – as you walk around the top you will notice that they path goes up and down, never at all steeply but just enough to draw attention to the varying levels.  If you keep looking across the plateau you will see that this too is undulating; sometimes you can see across it but at other times you can’t.  It is one of the most impressive and least-understood hillforts in the country, excavated only twice with sample trenches, with much more knowledge remaining to be discovered.

In April there are bluebells, celandines and wood anemones, and to keep the scrub down there are small herds of black sheep (Soay and Hebridean crosses) roaming the banks and ditches.  On my visit this August, just a few days ago, the long-term drought had left everything incredibly parched, and the plateau grass had died off.  Some of the young trees and shrubs were in fruit with red hawthorn berries, blackberries and dark purple alder berries. There had obviously been rosebay willowherb recently in flower, with its fluffy seeds catching the sun, and some gigantic thistles had recently gone over.  Otherwise, it was the bracken that was winning the fight against the drought, in spite of a fine herd of attractive black sheep.

Banks and ditches at the western entrance

Banks and ditches at the western entrance looking north

The site of Old Oswestry is built on a hill of clay, sands, gravels and mixed boulders left behind after the retreat of the last glacier, the whole thing lying on a bed of glacial clay.  You can see boulders underfoot as you walk around the perimeter of the plateau.  Old Oswestry is the largest of three similar hillocks, one of which is immediately visible to the south.  The hillfort was excavated in 1939 and 1940 with seven trenches cut mainly across the ramparts, followed 80 years by a small excavation of three trenches in 2021 and 2022, again across the ramparts.  The interior has never been subject to excavation.

Hillfort phases. Source: English Heritage

The earliest known occupants used the hillfort during the Neolithic, and left behind two polished stone axes and a set of worked stone tools.  The story of the archaeology of the Iron Age hillfort is complicated, but in essence it began with two banks that supported ramparts (defences built of stone), separated from each other by a ditch.  The first pair of banks and ditches followed the natural line of the hill, only interrupted by two entrances, on the east and west sides.  Over the 300 years that the hillfort remained in use, additional banks and ditches were added, in a less straight forward arrangement, causing the entrances to become corridors with banks along their sides.  In total, there are two banks on the eastern side, five on the southern side, four on the south and seven on the west where a complex of hollowed out depressions were added either side of the western entrance.  To date it is not known what the hollows were used for and they remain unique in Britain.  There are photos of them below.

Map showing Wat's Dyke and Offa's Dyke

Map showing Wat’s Dyke (brown line) and Offa’s Dyke (green line). Source: Keith Ray and authors on ResearchGate

The hillfort was incorporated by Wat’s Dyke, which arrives at the hillfort’s southern corner, and departs at its northern end, using the hillfort’s presence as a component of the linear boundary that extends over a 60 km (37 mile) stretch of the Welsh border built in the 8th or 9th century AD. It begins in Maesbury, just south of Oswestry and extends all the way to Basingwerk, near Holywell, on the north Wales coast, roughly parallel to Offa’s Dyke, but much shorter.  Although its purpose is currently a matter of speculation, it is thought to mark the border of Mercia in the west, and to be both a defensive and a symbolic structure, marking differences is political allegiance and administrative systems.  There is only one small part of it visible at Old Oswestry, at the southwest corner, but the line of the Dyke is marked by a line of hedgerow and trees that heads north from the hillfort.

Old Oswestry annotated

LiDAR view of Old Oswestry, with Wat’s Dyke (red arrows) and the craters and trenches (pink arrows) clearly visible. Click to enlarge. Source: Lock, Gary and Ralston, Ian. 2024. Atlas of Hillforts of Britain and Ireland: https://tinyurl.com/mputmk3d

In the LiDAR image of Old Oswestry to the right, Wat’s Dyke can be seen at the bottom left, where it meets the corner on a perpendicular on the southern side and extends from northeast corner of the hillfort, both visible as a shaded bank leading into and out of the hillfort.  The builders were obviously great pragmatists, making good use of a natural barrier in the landscape!

During the First World War, the interior of the hillfort enclosure was used for military training purposes, including the digging of practice trenches and setting off mortars and other explosive devices that left small craters in the top.  Marks of both the trenches and the craters are visible in some aerial photographs, and are visible in the LiDAR image right (click to expand).

The photographs are a mixture from April 2025 and August 2026, showing the difference between the well-watered spring and the long-term drought of 2026.

View from the foot of the west entrance

View from the foot of the west entrance to the west

View across the fields at the entrance to the hillfort

View across the fields at the entrance to the hillfort

The west entrance towards the plateau

The west entrance towards the plateau

 

From the bottom of the west entrance there is a shallow slope, with wide wood-framed stone steps to avoid mud slippage, leading up to the plateau.  Here, there is a walk that follows the circumference of the hillfort.

East side of the top of the hillfort

East side of the top of the hillfort. Note that this photograph was taken in April 2025; in August 2026 the plateau was completely parched, and a light yellow colour as in some of the photographs below.

The middle of the interior is fenced off for pasture most of the way round, although you can enter it at the eastern entrance, where you also get a good sense of how undulating the plateau actually is, even though it looks completely flat in aerial photographs.  At this point, as with many others, you cannot see from one side of the enclosed space to the other. Walking to the highest point of the plateau from the eastern entrance, up a slight slope, gives you panoramic views.

View across the eastern entrance towards the north

View across the eastern entrance towards the north in August 2026

The ramparts and ditches can all be explored freely, and these give an excellent idea, even after centuries of erosion, of the scale of the construction work that made up the site.  All of the rampart banks are so magnificently high that if you stand in the ditches, all you can see is the walls of the banks either side of you. It is in the ditches and on the side of banks, rather than along the plateau itself, that most of the wild flowers are to be found.

 

Across the top two banks and ditches to the view beyond

Optional stairways that lead across the banks and ditches from the circumference walk

Optional stairways that lead across the banks and ditches from the circumference walk, showing the surviving depth of one of the ditches

 

The line of Wat's Dyke

The line of Wat’s Dyke marked by the hedgerow and trees, heading north from the northern edge of the hillfort

 

April 2025

April 2025

Rosebay willowherb

Rosebay willowherb, August 2026

 

 

 

 

 

View east from the plateau

View east from the plateau

Perimeter walk around the plateau

Perimeter walk around the plateau

Upper and second ramparts

Upper and second ramparts looking west

Walking along the top of the second rampart

Walking along the top of the second rampart to the east

Walking to the west along the third rampart

The hollows at the west end are reached most easily from a black metal kissing gate on the north side (left, going up) on the slope from the western entrance.  This lets onto a single track footpath that passes at the bottom of the hollows and lets you get a sense of the scale of them, which is impressive.  The hollows on the other side of the footpath can also been seen, but are much smaller.  A footpath actually goes across the middle of them, but they are best seen from the second (looking down) or third ramparts (looking back).

One of the ponds or cells that you can see in the aerial photograph at the top of the page

One of the ponds or cells that you can see in the illustration at the top of the page, to the left of the west entrance as you go uphill, in April 2025. This was dry in the drought conditions of August 2026, but some of the hollows still had marsh plants at their edges.

Soft-stem bulrush growing around the base of the hollows even after a drought

 

 

Returning to the car via the west entrance

Returning to the car via the west entrance

 

The great bank at the base of the hillfort and the lesser bank below it

The great bank at the base of the hillfort and the lesser bank below it

The Tudor “Park Hall,” which burned down in 1918.  Source: Lost Heritage website

The hillfort itself is dramatic and breathtaking, but the surrounding landscape also bears unmistakeable signs of Oswestry’s heritage, whilst beneath the fields there may well be more of the area’s prehistory to uncover.  The hillfort used to part of the Park Hall estate, which once had one of England’s most impressive Tudor houses at its core before it tragically burned down in 1918.  The Oldport Farm immediately below the hillfort on its southeastern side dates at least to the 17th century, and perhaps earlier, and the fields retain the imprint of much earlier agricultural heritage.  During the First World War both the centre of the hillfort and other places in the vicinity, was used for digging practice trenches, both a chilling and touching reminder of the realities of the war.  A Prisoner of War Camp and cemetery were both established nearby.  There are even glimpses of the impact of the Industrial Revolution from the top of the hillfort, with the 19th century railway and Thomas Telford’s A5.

If you are looking for a great place for a short walk that focuses on a splendidly impressive and nationally important site, this should not be missed.  The walk can be extended via other footpaths, or can be combined with a visit to Oswestry itself, which is a very attractive market town.  You can download the Visit Oswestry’s Heritage Trail here.

The site was owned by Lord Harlech until 1946 when he handed it over to the state, and it is now the responsibility of English Heritage.

 

Sketchfab 3-D interactive model of Old Oswestry Hillfort.

Sketchfab 3-D interactive model of Old Oswestry Hillfort. Click here to go to the Sketchfab page.

Visiting 

The route to Old Oswestry Hillfort, showing the main parking area at Gatacre car park, as well as the lay-by at the foot of the west entrance.  Source: Old Oswestry Hillfort website – visiting page

The site is managed by English Heritage and it is free of charge to visit at any time, with one main parking area a five minute walk away from the hillfort, and a small lay-by.  There is brown heritage signage from the A5, which takes you through a residential area to the Gatacre Playing Field car park where there is plenty of parking (What3Words ///spray.funky.tasters).  There is also a layby with room for four or five cars.  Both parking areas are shown on the map produced by the Old Oswestry Hillfort website.

From Gatacre Playing Field car park showing the field route and the lane route to the western entrance to the hillfort.

From Gatacre Playing Field car park showing the field route and the lane route to the western entrance to the hillfort. Source: What3Words

I always park at the Gatacre car park because there is always plenty of room and it is only a five minute walk from the hillfort’s west entrance (the main access route to the hillfort).  The route to the hillfort is all on the flat, along a metalled path and a small, very quiet lane.

If it hasn’t  been raining, there is an even shorter route if you use the footpath (Oswald’s Way) from just beyond the car park to cut across the field – this was a gorgeous vista of sunflowers in August 2026, and would probably be even more sunflower-intensive in years that have had a bit of rainfall.

There are no facilities at the hillfort of any description, but there are plenty within Oswestry itself, only a short drive (less than two miles / 3.5km) from the site, or at Whittington Castle to the east.

The west entrance is a long, shallow slope now provided with long wood-framed steps lined with stone to protect visitors from muddy conditions, that leads up to the top.  At the top, there is a footpath all around the plateau.  The western and eastern entrances also offer access via gates and footpaths to the lower banks and ditches as well as the puzzling hollows that flank the west entrance.  Note that sheep roam the banks and ditches, so gates must be closed and dogs must be kept on leads.

Bracken on the banks and ditches at the northwestern corner of the hillfort

Bracken on the banks and ditches at the northwestern corner of the hillfort

Although the entire plateau walk is a nice easy stroll all the way around, well-worn by dog walkers, some of the lower ramparts are more challenging.  Most of the hillfort walks along banks and ditches are very easy to access on the south and west sides, but bracken can be a perpetual problem on some of the ramparts and ditches beneath the plateau on the north and east sides of the hillfort, particularly in the summer.  It seriously impedes passage, as well as potentially doing significant damage to archaeological deposits, whilst its density eliminates other species, significantly reducing biodiversity. Love it or hate it, one has to admire the tenacity of bracken under such extreme conditions. Both volunteer work and sheep are combining to reduce the impact of such invasive species, managing the site for the benefit of biodiversity, the archaeology and visitors.  If you find one of the rampart or ditch walks a bit of a struggle, there are plenty of others to try.

There are plenty of well thought out information signs along the course of the west entrance as well as on the footpath around the top, providing details about the archaeology and history of the site.

The walk can be extended via other footpaths.  For example the diagonal route across the field from the car park to the hillfort’s west entrance is part of Oswald’s Trail, a 12 mile / 13 km circular walk about which you can read more on the Shropshire’s Great Outdoors website. Or it can be combined with a visit to Oswestry itself, which is a very attractive market town.  You can download the Visit Oswestry’s Heritage Trail here.

View from the hillfort to Oswestry

View from the hillfort towards Oswestry

Sunflowers on the path across the field from Gatacre Playing Fields to the western entrance of the hillfort

Sunflowers on the path across the field from Gatacre Playing Fields to the western entrance of the hillfort

 

Artist's reconstruction of Old Oswestry Hillfort, based on the discovery of two roundhouses. By Ivan Lapper.

Artist’s reconstruction of Old Oswestry Hillfort based on the surviving earthworks and entrances and the discovery during excavations of the ephemeral remains of two roundhouses. There are no ramparts shown on top of the banks, but the illustration gives a sense of how the interior might have looked, and how the east entrance may have been configured. By Ivan Lapper. Source: English Heritage

 

Exploring Maiden Castle Iron Age Hillfort, Bickerton Hill (mid-Cheshire Sandstone Ridge)

Introduction

Maiden Castle, Bickerton Hill, Cheshire

Artist’s imaginative interpretation of how Maiden Castle may have looked, based on information from both the site itself as well as from other excavated hillforts. As no excavations have taken place in the interior beyond the entrance area, the roundhouses and accompanying square structures are largely speculative.  Produced by the Habitats and Hillforts Project 2008-2012. Source: Sandstone Ridge Trust

Further to last week’s walk on Bickerton Hill, Maiden Castle sits on the route of the Sandstone Trail, on the northeast edge of Bickerton Hill (once known as Birds Hill), which is one of the Triassic red sandstone outcrops that make up the mid-Cheshire Sandstone Ridge.  It is the southernmost of six hillforts along the ridge (see topographical map below). A visit to the hillfort makes for a great walk with lovely views over the Cheshire Plain.

Traditionally hillforts were associated with the Iron Age, and in general the early and mid Iron Age periods, but modern excavations have revealed that many had their origins in the Late Bronze Age, that not all of them were contemporary, and some were re-used in the post-Roman period.  Some have a long sequence of occupation and abandonment, and many may have performed different functions, both in terms of geographical distinctions and even within localized areas.

Chronology of Sandstone Ridge hillforts. Source: Garner 2012

Chronology of Sandstone Ridge hillforts. Source: Garner 2012, p.9

All hillforts make use of the natural topography in order to provide their enclosures with good defensive potential, including good views over the landscape. Many strategic locations are also shared, either actually or conceptually, by medieval castles.

Some hillforts surround the very top of a hilltop, such as Beeston Castle on the Sandstone Ridge to the north (a location used by Ranulph III, 6th Earl of Chester, for his medieval castle), but others like Maiden Castle are located to take advantage of a natural drop on one or more sides to provide some of the defences.  These are usually referred to as promontory hillforts, and Maiden Castle is a good example. The built defences form a dog-leg curve that meets on either side of a slight projection over the steep drop of the Sandstone Ridge where it plunges down to the Cheshire Plain.  As well as reducing the amount of work required to provide defences for the site,  promontory forts could be just as visible as those that circled hilltops.  In the case of Maiden Castle, the height of the site (c. 698ft/212m AOD) and the views from its banks at the east of the hillfort also provide good views to the east.  Although it is at the highest point of Bickerton Hill, Maiden Castle only occupies a part of the high ground, presumably its size, smaller than most of its neighbours, sufficient for its needs.

Google Map of Bickerton Hill and Maiden Castle

Google Map of Bickerton Hill and Maiden Castle. The purple marker shows the centre of the hillfort. The ditches between banks are visible as the darker arcing lines

Maiden Castle, in common with other hillforts, had no obvious source of water, and could not therefore withstand a prolonged siege, assuming that it had a defensive role.  In addition, any livestock herded on the outcrop would need to be returned to a water source.  Springs were available along other parts of the sandstone trail, many of which are now dry, and some wells mark access to water today, including Droppingstone Well at Raw Head, under 3km away, and the medieval well at Beeston Castle (now dry), but there were no rivers or streams nearby.  The nearest is Bickley Brook, around 2km to the east.  However, it is likely that there was a lot of standing water and ponds as well as a diversity of small and possibly seasonal wetland habitats that supported different types of wildlife, with a strong avian component.   It is interesting that of all the hillforts on the Sandstone Ridge, only Maiden Castle did not neighbour a river or well-sized mere, nor a well-fed stream or small mere.

Topographical map of the Cheshire Sandstone Ridge, showing Maiden Castle at the south end. Source: Garner et al 2012

The question of a water supply draws attention to the fact that the exact role of hillforts in this part of the country is not fully understood.  The often massive ditches and banks, the latter supporting additional structures such as palisades, were quite clearly intended to keep one set of people (and their possessions) in, and presumably another set of people out.  Specialized entrance designs reinforce this idea of controlled and limited access.  At some hillforts slingshot stones, usually interpreted as evidence of warfare, have been found including at the Sandstone Ridge hillforts Woodhouse and Eddibsury, made of rounded sandstone pebbles.  However, whether warfare is the correct model for the role of Cheshire hillforts is by no means clear.  Localized disputes such as cattle and grain raiding might be a more plausible scenario than all-out warfare, with the hillforts perhaps (speculatively) providing places of retreat from farmsteads dotted around the surrounding plains at times of threat.  The scale of investment in these structures certainly suggests that whatever their role, they were seen as necessary for local security, and probably for conveying territorial ownership and status as well.  An experiment to test inter-visibility between hillforts in northeast Wales and Cheshire, called the Hillfort Glow was undertaken in 2011 by the former Habitats and Hillforts. Sadly, the Habitats and Hillforts website is no longer available, but the experiment was reported on the BBC News website.  Ten Iron Age hillfort sites were included (on the Clwydian Range, Halkyn Mountain, the mid-Cheshire Sandstone Ridge, and at Burton Point on the Wirral).  It suggests that if allied groups wanted to communicate a threat to neighbours, they could do so quite easily, with Burton Point on the Wirral, for example, visible as far always as Maiden Castle 25km (15.5 miles) away, as well as nearer sites on the Clwydian Range.

Maiden Castle defences seen from the edge of the ridge

Maiden Castle defences as they look today, at the far south of the hillfort, seen from near the edge of the ridge, with the dark shadow marking the ditch, facing roughly to the east.

If you visit Maiden Castle in person (see Visiting details at the end for how best to locate it), you will find that the enclosure ditch between the two lines of rampart is clearly visible, although considerably less impressive than it would have been in the Iron Age, and you can walk along it very easily.  The photograph here shows it in late autumn afternoon light, with the ditch clearly marked by the line of shadow.

Excavations and surveys

Varley 1940, Maiden Castle plans, p.70-71

Varley 1940, Maiden Castle schematic plans, showing Varley’s illustrations of the defences, the entrance and the construction of the banks, showing the stone facings, figs.11 and 12, p.70-71

The Maiden Castle hillfort was first excavated by William Varley, (a geography lecturer at the University of Liverpool) and J.P. Droop (who was also involved in the Chester Amphitheatre excavations) over two seasons between 1934 and 1935, published promptly by Varley over two years in 1935 and 1936, after which Varley moved on to Eddisbury Hillfort near Frodsham.  In 1940, as the first of a new series of history books, The Handbooks to the History of Cheshire, he co-authored Prehistoric Cheshire with John Jackson, with illustrations, photographs, fold-out maps and a bibliography organized by archaeological period.

Varley’s published excavations at Maiden Castle were carried out to a very high standard.  As with the later book, he included plans and photographs of the entire site with particular emphasis on his excavations, which were focused on the northern end and included the entrance, and both outer and inner ramparts.

Maiden Castle showing how the inner bank was turned inwards to form a corridor entrance. Source: Varley 1936, Pl.XLIII

Maiden Castle, showing how the inner bank was turned inwards to form a corridor entrance. Source: Varley 1936

The excavations were very informative, confirming that there were two ramparts separated by a ditch and suggesting an additional ditch surrounding the entire defences.  A possible palisade trench under the outer of the two Iron Age ramparts is the only indication that he found of a possible pre-Iron Age line of defences.  The inner rampart was built using timber and sand, and was faced with stone on both sides.  The outer rampart was formed of sand and rubble, with the outer side also faced with stone.  The inner rampart enclosed an area of around 0.7ha, with an entrance at the northeast formed by turning both sides of part of the inner rampart inwards, to form a corridor c.17m long and 0.8m wide.  A pair of postholes set within the entrance area may have been gate posts.  The entrance in the outer rampart was a simple gap, lined up with the inner rampart entrance.  Varley believed that so-called guard chambers (by then identified at some other hillforts) once flanked the entrance, marked by archaeological surfaces, one of which produced a piece of Iron Age pottery.  However, no structural remains survived to substantiate this interpretation.  The ditch between the two ramparts is clearly visible today, particularly at the south end, but Varley also identified another ditch on the far side of the outer rampart, which appears to have been confirmed by the LiDAR survey carried out in 2010. Varley’s plans and photographs have contributed to more recent research and remain a useful resource.

William Varley’s photograph of the entrance of Maiden Castle. Source: Varley 1940, Plate VIII

xxx
Although no further excavations were carried out until 1980, a number of topographical surveys were undertaken in an attempt to clarify matters.  The 1980 excavation, published by Joan Taylor (University of Liverpool) in 1981, was undertaken in response to damage unintentionally inflicted on part of the ramparts by walkers, which revealed some of the internal burnt wooden construction material.  This was an opportunity to re-examine the construction methods and to send some of the charred wood for radiocarbon dating, which produced dates in two clusters, which were later calibrated (a form of correction) by Keith Matthews, then with the Chester Archaeology Service.  The results indicated that Varley’s instincts that the inner rampart predated the outer one were correct, producing a set around 860-330 cal.BC for the inner rampart and a set of 380-310 cal.BC on the outer rampart.

LiDAR clearly shows not only the banks and ditches but also the damage inflicted by stone quarrying both within and beyond the hillfort enclosure. Source: Garner 2012, p.50

LiDAR clearly shows not only the banks and ditches but also the damage inflicted by stone quarrying both within and beyond the hillfort enclosure. Source: Garner 2012, p.50

No further excavations have taken place at the site, but a the Habitats and Hillforts project undertook a number of non-invasive surveys of the site, reported in Garner’s 2016 publication.  The results of a LiDAR survey were reported, revealing that considerable damaged from later stone quarrying to the ramparts and the interior, as well as across the rest of the hill. It additionally confirmed that there were trenches from when the army had a training base and firing range at the site in the later 20th century.  Finally, geophysical surveys were carried out by Dr Ian Brooks in 2011, again reported in Garner 2016, which included both resistivity and magnetometry surveys, the latter producing signs of three possible roundhouses, one of which made up a full circle, their diameters measuring 6.9m, 7.8m and 9.2m.  This is a good indication of the potential of the site for producing further information, even with the probable  damage to parts of the archaeological layers from quarrying (marked on the LiDAR image below as irregularly shaped depressions), but not much else can be concluded without excavation.

Possible roundhouses revealed by geophysical survey. Source: Garner 2017, p.58

Possible roundhouses revealed by geophysical survey, shown in red, with irregularly shaped pits produced by later quarrying for stone. Source: Garner 2017, p.58

Summary of the amalgamated data

The structural character of the site

Artist's impression of how the main entrance into Maiden Castle may have looked.

Artist’s impression of how ta simple inturned entrance may have looked, with a palisade on what remains of the ramparts and a walkway over the gateway, with roundhouses just visible in the interior.  Source: Sandstone Ridge – Maiden Castle heritage leaflet

The site is defined by an interior sub-rectangular space enclosed on the east by a pair of ramparts, each with an external ditch, and on the west by an angled section of the precipice that once met up with either end of the ramparts, creating a complete defensible boundary.  There are good indications that when it was first built there was only one rampart.  A stone-faced entrance penetrated the ramparts at the northern end, with a corridor-style inturned section of the inner boundary, with postholes flanking the entrance suggesting that the interior was protected by gates.  Although the interior has been badly damaged by quarrying for stone, geophysical investigations have suggested that roundhouses were present within the enclosure.  The site had immensely clear views to the west, and good views to the east.

This is quite a small site compared to others nearby.  For example, it is around half the size of Helsby hillfort to which it is otherwise similar in appearance.  One suggestion is that it is more akin to an enclosed farmstead than a place for community aggregation and defence.  Having stone-lined ramparts, the site would have been both visible and impressive, perhaps a statement about social identity and affiliation with the land around the hill. Still, the addition of a second rampart argues that defence was an important aspect of the design.

Chronology

Walking along the ditch between the ramparts at Maiden Castle

Walking along the ditch between the ramparts at Maiden Castle

There is only faint evidence of a Late Bronze Age predecessor for the Iron Age hillfort, although this might be expected because Beeston Castle demonstrated clear Late Bronze Age structural features, and Woodhouse, Kelsborrow and Helsby all produced possible evidence of Late Bronze Age construction.  The only evidence is a possible palisade slot under the outer of the two Iron Age ramparts.  However, the level of disturbance created by stone quarrying in the interior may well have eliminated earlier data.  Unfortunately there were no diagnostic artefacts to assist with the question of dating but radiocarbon dates obtained during the excavations during the 1980s suggest that the inner rampart predates the outer rampart, with three radiocarbon dates from the inner rampart spanning 860 to 330 BC whilst those from the outer rampart included one of 380-10 BC.

Economic resources

There are few sites in the immediate area that provide insights into the economic activities in which the local communities were engaged, and what the local land might have supported, both in terms of lowland and upland exploitation of domesticated and wild resources.  The soil surrounding the outcrop was generally poorly drained leading to damp, sometimes seasonally waterlogged conditions.  That on the outcrop itself was shrubby heathland, good for livestock grazing but not for cultivation.

Beeston Castle as it might have appeared in the Iron Age. Source: Sandstone Ridge leaflet

Beeston Castle as it might have appeared in late prehistory. Source: Sandstone Ridge leaflet

There is no data about livelihood management and farming activity available from Maiden Castle, and it is anyway most likely that economic activity took place in the fields below, although it is possible that a site like Maiden Castle would be used to store edible and other resources.

A good idea of what might have been available to the occupants of all the hillforts on the Sandstone Ridge comes from excavations at Beeston Castle, the next hillfort to the north.  Between 1980 and 1985 soil samples were taken during the excavations, focusing on areas most likely to provide information about the use of structures. 60,000 cereal items were recovered.  Emmer and spelt wheat dominated.  Spelt is more tolerant of poor growing conditions, requires less nitrogen to grow, has better resistance to disease and pests, is more competitive against weeds, more tolerant of damp soil conditions, including waterlogging, and can be used to make bread without yeast.  On the other hand, the processing stage is very labour intensive.  Emmer wheat is only reasonably tolerant of damp growing conditions, makes a denser bread that is higher in protein, and is a lot easier to process.  They can be grown separately or as a mixed crop.  Grains of hulled barley were also found at Beeston, but in smaller numbers, possibly due to it being much less tolerant than either emmer or spelt to damp conditions.  Oat was found in the samples, although it is not know whether this was a domesticated or wild crop.  Wild species in the samples that could have been used as a food source were hazelnuts and fruits of the Rubus genus (blackberry, raspberry and/or damsons) and fruits of the Prunus genus (sloe, cheery, and/or plum) and elder berry.

View towards the Clwydian Range across the Cheshire Plain

View towards the Clwydian Range across the Cheshire Plain

There is a dearth of lowland sites known in the area.  Standing on the top of Maiden Castle’s ramparts and looking to the east and west, with views across both the flat stretches of the western part of the Cheshire Plain and the more undulating topography to the east, it is not difficult to imagine Iron Age farmsteads dotting the landscape in a similar way to modern farms today, either enclosed in a ditch and bank arrangement, or simply unenclosed. Even so, a number of such farmstead settlements are known to the west of the Cheshire Ridge as far as (and including) the Wirral, together with some very rare examples of field systems.

The nearest lowland site is Brook House Farm, Bruen Stapleford, around 11km (c.7 miles) away as the crow flies.  Very little animal bone was found, probably due to the acidic soil, but included a pig tooth, a piece of sheep/goat/roe deer-sized animal bone, and a few fragments of cow teeth.  The poorly drained damp plain would not have been suitable for sheep, although entirely suitable for cattle and pigs.  It is worth bearing in mind that the sort of higher ground represented by Bickerton Hill would have been ideal for allowing sheep to roam and feed off upland grasses and shrubs, representing a rare opportunity in Cheshire, should it have been required, for this type of economic diversification, but they would have required access to water when feeding lambs or if used for milk production.  Lowland conditions would also have favoured the herding of livestock, and would have been suitable too for raising pigs and horses.

Brook House Farm. Structures 3 and 4. Fairburn et al 2002, p.14, fig. III II.4

Brook House Farm. Structures 3 and 4. Fairburn et al 2002, p.14, fig. III II.4

Just as today, the underlying geology and soils would have placed limits on what could be grown agriculturally on the Cheshire Plain.  At Brook House Farm plant remains included bread-type wheat emmer or spelt, and some hulled barley.  There was a relatively high proportion of grassland species, suggesting that damp slow-draining grassland may have dominated in the area, which would be more suitable for hay production and livestock grazing than crop cultivation.

The combination of crops and livestock using both lowland and upland areas would have been a good way of diversifying economic output, making the most of the environment, and spreading the risk that subsistence strategies would have faced, even when planning on creating a certain amount of surplus for over-wintering and for trade. It has often been suggested that hillforts may have had multiple roles either simultaneously or consecutively over time, and one of those roles may have been storage of surplus grains, preserved meats, salt and items for trade.

Assuming that those sites to the west of Maiden Castle (and the other west-facing Sandstone Ridge hillforts) had clear lines of visibility to the lowland sites on the Cheshire Plain, and vice versa, it would have been just as straight forward to establish visual communication between the lowland sites and the hillfort, as it was between contemporary hillforts.

Final comments

View across to the east from the outer rampart

View across to the east from the outer rampart

At the moment, hillforts and lowland settlements during later prehistory are not well understood in the Cheshire area.  This is partly because relatively few have been comprehensively excavated, but also because lowland sites are particularly difficult to locate.  Where sites are excavated, local conditions are not favourable to the preservation of organic materials, and most of them produce few artefacts.

The relationship between hillforts and lowland settlements is also poorly understood.  As more of these small farmsteads are identified and excavated, the picture should eventually become a lot clearer, but a number of sites have been identified to date not by crop marks but by accidental discovery during construction works such as pipe and cable laying and housing developments.  It could be a long haul.

In the meantime, sites like Maiden Castle, with their earthworks dating back over 2000 years, are a pleasure to visit and to get to grips with.  When there are stunning views into the bargain, there is a lot to love!

 

Visiting

Google Map of Bickerton Hill and Maiden Castle

Google Map of Bickerton Hill and Maiden Castle approached from the Goldford Lane car park.

This is a very enjoyable and popular place to visit, managed by the National Trust, and provided with two car parks, one on each side of the hill.  Although not well sign-posted, there is plenty of parking provided by the National Trust.  I used the Goldford Lane car park, which is well-sized (copy over from my walk).  The hillfort can be incorporated into a circular walk that includes Brown Knowle.  The views from the top of the ridge are superb.  See full details, including the leaflet that describes the route for the Brown Knowle walk at the end of my previous post about walking on Bickerton Hill, including a What3Words address for the car park.

Information about Maiden Castle at the site. Click to enlarge.

Information panel at the site about Maiden Castle and the heathland in which it sits. Click to enlarge.

Finding the hillfort is a matter of keeping your eyes open for the information plinth where the footpath opens into in a wide clearing with a bench and terrific views, at the highest point of the hill. It can be seen in the Google satellite photograph above as the scuffed area to the bottom left of the picture.  If you take the lower of the two paths from the car park, skirting the bottom of the hillfort, you will see the information board easily, but if you take the upper path along the ridge, it is actually facing away from you downhill and is easy to miss.

Walking the ditch between the ramparts is easy enough, but note that the banks are covered in low shrubs and brambles that make it quite hard going underfoot, as the ground is completely invisible and very densely covered in a tight network of shrubby material.  However, the views to the east are impressive from the outer rampart.  The same can be said for the interior, which is also covered with dense low shrubs and bracken.  The thought of excavating it makes me ache all over!

You can read much more about Maiden Castle and other archaeology, geology and landscape on the Sandstone Ridge in the sources below.

For other Iron Age sites written about on this blog, see:

Beneath Chester’s Roman Amphitheatre – the Iron Age buildings and fields
https://basedinchurton.co.uk/2026/06/02/beneath-chesters-roman-amphitheatre-the-iron-age-buildings-and-fields/
Burton Point: The small and rather puzzling Iron Age promontory fort on the Wirral
https://basedinchurton.co.uk/2026/04/11/the-small-and-rather-puzzling-burton-point-promontory-hillfort-on-the-wirral/
Sunshine, archaeology and great views at Caer Drewyn Iron Age hillfort at Corwen near Llangollen
https://basedinchurton.co.uk/2023/09/11/sunshine-and-great-views-at-caer-drewyn-iron-age-hillfort-at-corwen/

 

Sources

Books and Papers

Driver, Toby 2013. Architecture Regional Identity and Power in the Iron Age Landscapes of Mid Wales: The Hillforts of North Ceredigion. BAR British Series 583

Ellis, P. (ed.) 1993.  Beeston Castle, Cheshire. Excavations by Laurence Keen and Peter Hough, 1968-1985. English Heritage
https://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archiveDS/archiveDownload?t=arch-1416-1/dissemination/pdf/9781848021358.pdf 

Fairburn, N., with D. Bonner, W. J. Carruthers, G.R. Gale, K. J. Matthews, E. Morris and M. Ward 2002. II: Brook House Farm, Bruen Stapleford. Excavation of a First Millennium BC Settlement.  Journal of the Chester Archaeological Society, new series 77, 2002, p.9–57
https://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archiveDS/archiveDownload?t=arch-2910-1/dissemination/pdf/JCAS_ns_077/JCAS_ns_077_008-057.pdf

Garner, D. (and contributors) 2012. Hillforts of the Cheshire Sandstone Ridge. Habitats and Hillforts Landscape Partnership Scheme. Cheshire West and Chester Council.
https://www.sandstoneridge.org.uk/lib/file-234636.pdf

Garner D. (and contributors) 2016. Hillforts of the Cheshire Ridge. Investigations undertaken by The Habitats and Hillforts Landscape Partnership Scheme 2009–2012. Archaeopress
Abridged version available online, minus appendices (there is no index in either print or online versions, but you can keyword search the PDF):
https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Peter_Marshall14/publication/313797404_Hillforts_of_the_Cheshire_Ridge_Investigations_undertaken_by_The_Habitats_and_Hillforts_Landscape_Partnership_Scheme_2009-2012/links/58a6860aa6fdcc0e078652a7/Hillforts-of-the-Cheshire-Ridge-Investigations-undertaken-by-The-Habitats-and-Hillforts-Landscape-Partnership-Scheme-2009-2012.pdf?__cf_chl_tk=hzbN0_un1j_np6Me4Z0bWxtROgI9juclGR.5XFzS5iY-1764184426-1.0.1.1-RsTsNKNPcI.Zt7JSR8rdabCJKMfRvmSXkjpGJZHx31c
Some of the unpublished reports commissioned during this project, as well as some of the tables that are too small to read properly in the printed versions are currently available at http://bit.ly/2ghWmze.

Matthews, Keith J. 2002. The Iron Age of Northwest England: A socio-economic model.  Journal of the Chester Archaeological Society 76, p.1-51
https://www.academia.edu/900876/The_Iron_Age_of_North_West_England_A_Socio_Economic_Model

Schoenwetter, James 1982. Environmental Archaeology of the Peckforton Hills. (2-page summary). Cheshire Archaeological Bulletin, No.8., p.

Schoenwetter, James 1983. Environmental Archaeology of the Peckforton Hills.
https://core.tdar.org/document/6256/environmental-archaeology-of-the-peckforton-hills

Smith, M., Russell, M., and Cheetham, P. 2025. Fraught with high tragedy: A contextual and chronological  reconsideration of the Maiden Castle Iron Age ‘War Cemetery’ (England). Oxford Journal of Archaeology, 44: p.270–295
N.B. – This refers to Maiden Castle in Dorset.

Internet Archive: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ojoa.12324

Taylor, Joan. 1981. Maiden Castle, Bickerton Hill, Interim Report. Cheshire Archaeological Bulletin 7, p.34-6

Varley, William 1935.  Maiden Castle, Bickerton: Preliminary Excavations, 1934. University of Liverpool Annals of Archaeology and Anthropology, vol.22, p.97-110 and plates XV-XXII
Internet Archive: https://archive.org/details/annals-of-archaeology-and-anthropology_1935_22_1-2/mode/2up

Varley, William 1936.  Further excavations at Maiden Castle, Bickerton 1935. University of Liverpool Annals of Archaeology and Anthropology, vol.23, p.101-112 and plates XLIII-L
https://dn720408.ca.archive.org/0/items/annals-of-archaeology-and-anthropology_1936_23_3-4/annals-of-archaeology-and-anthropology_1936_23_3-4.pdf

Varley, William 1948.  The Hillforts of the Welsh Marches.  The Archaeological Journal, vol. 105, p.41 – 66
https://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archiveDS/archiveDownload?t=arch-1132-1/dissemination/pdf/105/105_041_066.pdf

Varley, William and John Jackson 1940. Prehistoric Cheshire. Cheshire Rural Community Council

Websites

BBC News
North Wales hillfort test of Iron Age communication
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-north-east-wales-11832323

Heritage Gateway
Maiden Castle, Bickerton, Hob Uid: 68844
https://www.heritagegateway.org.uk/Gateway/Results_Single.aspx?uid=68844&resourceID=19191

Historic England
Maiden Castle promontory fort on Bickerton Hill 700m west of Hill Farm
https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1013293?section=official-list-entry
Hillforts. Introductions to Heritage Assets
https://historicengland.org.uk/images-books/publications/iha-hillforts/heag206-hillforts/

Natural England
https://nationalcharacterareas.co.uk/

National Character Area 61 – Shropshire, Cheshire and Staffordshire Plain
Key Facts and Data

https://nationalcharacterareas.co.uk/shropshire-cheshire-and-staffordshire-plain/key-facts-data/
Analysis: Landscape Attributes and Opportunities
https://nationalcharacterareas.co.uk/shropshire-cheshire-and-staffordshire-plain/analysis-landscape-attributes-opportunities/
NE556: NCA Profile: 61 Shropshire, Cheshire and Staffordshire Plain, PDF
https://publications.naturalengland.org.uk/publication/6076647514046464?category=587130

National Character Area 62 – Cheshire Sandstone Ridge
Description

https://nationalcharacterareas.co.uk/cheshire-sandstone-ridge/description/
Key Facts and Data
https://nationalcharacterareas.co.uk/cheshire-sandstone-ridge/key-facts-data/
Analysis: Landscape Attributes and Opportunities
https://nationalcharacterareas.co.uk/cheshire-sandstone-ridge/analysis-landscape-attributes-opportunities/
NE551: NCA Profile: 62 Cheshire Sandstone Ridge, PDF
https://publications.naturalengland.org.uk/file/5228198174392320

Sandstone Ridge Trust
Maiden Castle: An Iron Age cliff edge fort (2-page PDF leaflet)
https://www.sandstoneridge.org.uk/lib/file-323322.pdf
Circular walks that include hillforts of the Cheshire Sandstone Ridge
https://www.sandstoneridge.org.uk/discovering/walks-february.html

 

Prehistoric Cheshire

 

A stunning late autumn sun-filled walk at Bickerton Hill, with lovely views

On Tuesday I took advantage of the beautiful sunshine, wrapped myself up like the Michelin Man, and went on an Iron Age hillfort hunt – Maiden Castle on the National Trust’s Bickerton Hill, to be precise.  The hillfort is, as they often are, rather easier to get to grips with from the air and in plans and illustrations, but it was still really good to see it on the ground.  I have written up Maiden Castle on a separate post here.  The real joy of the day were the deep blue skies and the slanting late autumn sunshine as it cut through the spectrum of reds, copper-oranges and yellows, and put a great golden spotlight on the bright, emerald green of the Cheshire plain below.  Utterly stunning.

The walk leads from the car park up to the ridge that overlooks most dramatically across the west Cheshire plain towards the Clwydian Range, with views too across east Cheshire.  I walked up from the Goldford Lane car park, a gentle slope across red sandy soil and sandstone slabs to the ridge, and then walked first in one direction towards and beyond the hillfort, and then retraced my steps to go along the ridge in the other direction, before returning to the car.  An alternative is to do one of a number of circular walks, one of which is shown below.  Whichever route you take, it is really spectacular on a sunny autumnal day.  Visiting details at the end.

 

 

 

Click to enlarge

Google Map of Bickerton Hill and Maiden Castle

Google Map of Bickerton Hill and Maiden Castle

The hill was designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) in 1979.  Interestingly (and unfortunately) the former heathland environment underwent ecological change when cattle and sheep ceased to be  grazed on the hill during the 1950s, allowing birch, oak and endless swathes of bracken to gain a foothold, killing off the natural bilberries and heather.  Although very beautifully copper-coloured in the autumn sun, the bracken, Pteridium aquilinum, has a number of worrying ecological downsides to it, described here on the “Moorland Association” website.  Most of the silver birches and oaks are still very young, but in places the silver birch in particular forms dense clumps.  The National Trust has now initiated a project of long-term work to re-establish large areas of heathland on the hill.

 

Bickerton Hill nature conservation

Bickerton Hill nature conservation

Visiting is easy.  The hill is just south of the main Wrexham-Broxton-Nantwich road (the A534). There are two car parks, one on either side of the hill.  I used the one off Goldford Lane, which is a large free parking area, with a shallow slope uphill towards the ridge.  The What3Words location is ///device.emulating.upwardly.  The National Trust page for the site can be found at: https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/cheshire-greater-manchester/alderley-edge-and-cheshire-countryside/things-to-do-at-bickerton-hill#rt-visit-maiden-castle.

You can download a leaflet about the hill and the hillfort here, including what looks like an excellent walk taking in Brown Knowl, on the Cheshire Sandstone Ridge website: https://www.sandstoneridge.org.uk/lib/file-323329.pdf

The geology of the sandstone trail can also be investigated on the Cheshire Sandstone Ridge website at: https://www.sandstoneridge.org.uk/geology.html

My video from the top of the ridge:

 

The fabulous nature reserve at the RSPB’s Burton Mere Wetlands

Flying Canada Geese at the RSPB's Burton Mere wildlife reserveWhen I got up this morning and saw what a beautiful day awaited, I decided on the spur of the moment to go to the RSPB nature reserve on the Dee estuary at Burton.

Burton village, well-kept and firmly manicured, is located on the southwest of the Wirral, about 20 minutes drive out of Chester, an area now better known for giving its name to the nearby wetlands.  The wetlands are divided into two separate entities.  The first is the splendidly well organized and laid out nature reserve operated by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (the RSPB) which was specially set up for the benefit of birds and bird watchers, but accommodates general visitors too.  There is also a route through the wetlands on the far side of the RSPB reserve, and extending well beyond it, which is the Sustrans route number 568, developed for cyclists but welcoming walkers. It crosses the wetlands from Connah’s Quay, meeting the Wirral peninsula at just above Burton Point, and continuing on to Neston.  They provide two very different but both marvellous experiences of the wetland scenery.  I have already posted a short piece about my short visit to the Sustrans cycle and walking route in the Burton Point area, although I want to walk the whole thing eventually.

Greylag goose at the RSPB's Burton Mere wildlife reserve

 

A lapwing stretching its wings, whilst a common sandpiper stands by unimpressed

A lapwing stretching its wings, whilst a common sandpiper stands by unimpressed

The RSPB wetland reserve

Greylag geese with their bright orange beaks at the RSPB's Burton Mere

Greylag geese with their bright orange beaks at the RSPB’s Burton Mere

Several miles of wetland are enclosed within the RSPB reserve, which attract thousands of birds of many different species, with the river Dee invisible along the far edge of north Wales. The canalization of the Dee, completed in 1737, completely changed the environmental conditions of this part of the estuary, forcing the river to run along the Welsh edge of the estuary.  The canalized channel of the Dee is not visible from the nature reserve, but the miles of wetland are lovely.  There are huge expanses of pond and small lake, as well as flooded wetlands in the distance.  On a bright day with blue skies overhead it is gorgeous.  The reserve backs on to farmland at the rear, includes a woodland walk, and has a very attractive red sandstone railway bridge crossing the tracks below and even boasts the remains of an Iron Age hillfort which, if somewhat puzzling as an archaeological entity, has lovely views along the estuary towards Hilbre Island and across to north Wales.

 

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For bird watchers there is an enclosed viewing room where the ticket office is located, and throughout the reserve there are coverts and hides like the one above, all of them with benches, and all with windows suitable for both seated and standing visitors, and there are also viewing screens  and viewing platforms dotted throughout.

For less specialist visitors there are some splendid wending walks through the reserve, where water-loving plant and tree species abound, many in flower or producing berries at this time of year, and all providing a myriad of colours and textures over a base of deep greens and rich browns, which provide excellent resources for insect life.  The plants are so dense that where there is water running beneath boardwalks the water is scarcely visible.

 

The walks are all nice and even underfoot, many of the boardwalks coated in wire mesh to prevent them becoming slippery, and it is all beautifully maintained.  Being located on the side of the estuary, the nature reserve is nearly all on the flat.  All the main walks are wheelchair friendly, as are the hides and coverts.  There are actually four miles of signposted walks, as well as the woodland walk, which takes about half an hour.  There are plenty of benches dotted around for a moment of relaxation and contemplation.  Burton Point, at the furthest end of the nature reserve, is a tiny headland, which involves walking a short way up a slight slope and an informal footpath, and offers some great views along the estuary.  It is supposed to be the site of a small Iron Age promontory hillfort, but the evidence for this is difficult to see, although an interpretation sign does its best to offer a visualization of how it may have looked.

Even if you are not a regular bird watcher, the water birds are fascinating.  There are plenty of information boards showing what you are likely to see, and there is a whiteboard in the reception area showing a list of what has been spotted on a given and previous days.  Binoculars and cameras with enormous lenses (one of them in camouflage colours!) were very much in evidence and I soon found at why – my nice all-round lens, a 28-300mm zoom, was struggling desperately at its top end, and something much more powerful would have been helpful.  Do note that you can hire or buy binoculars from the reception area to get a better view of what birdlife is spending its time on the wetlands.   At this time of year the geese dominate, both in numbers and in voice.  Their honking can be heard wherever you are in the reserve, even when you can’t see them, There were Canada and greylag geese in great numbers, and a handful of Egyptian geese sunbathing on the far side of one of the stretches of open water, but there are plenty of other species too.

Greylag geese at the RSPB's Burton Mere nature reserve

There was something distinctly conversational, and rather cross, going on here, and you should have heard the honking!

Of the smaller water birds, as well as the familiar moorhens, coots and mallards, there were gorgeous lapwings and a variety of small wading birds, with slender legs and long beaks, including a common sandpiper that was distinguished by its rusty coloured plumage.  There were multiple grey herons looking like statues, waiting patiently for unsuspecting fish to swim by, and I spotted some tiny little fish in one of the ponds near the cafe which are presumably a popular part of the herons’ dietary intake.  There must be lots of reed-loving birds hidden in the wetlands, successfully shielding themselves from prying eyes.  There was apparently a spotted redshank, which was causing some excitement among the better informed bird watchers in one covert, but although I followed the directions that a father was giving his son (along the lines of – left of that greylag goose walking in front of that moorhen and then two back and one over) I was unable to spot it.  Bird feeders dotted around were attracting blue tits and great tits in great numbers and there were pied wagtails in some of the many trees that line the edges of some of the paths.  There’s an A-Z of bird species on the RSPB website.

One of many grey herons, on the hunt for unsuspecting fish at RSPB's Burton Mere

One of many grey herons, on the hunt for unsuspecting fish

This is a super place to visit, and seasonal changes in bird and plant life mean that there will always be something new to see, and there are plenty of butterflies, bees, dragonflies, damsonfiles and other insects to observe if you look carefully.  The grasshopper in the image below was particularly well camouflaged, and apparently there are sometimes lizards sunbathing in the sunnier patches.  On Burton Point there are rabbit warrens, and according to some of the signage (much of it directed at children, but still informative to older visitors) the local animals have a vibrant night life.

Spot the grasshopper

Regarding the hillfort on the promontory, Burton Point, there are websites that say that the small headland on which the site is located is privately owned and should not be entered without permission, but this is in fact now included in the RSPB reserve and is served by good footpaths and includes interpretation signage to give visitors some idea of what was here.  I’ll talk more about this site on a separate post.

Burton Point, a low promontory that overlooks the Dee estuary and is the possible site of an Iron Age Hillfort. In this photograph the footpath at far right leads into the woodland, where a vantage point looks down on the fortifications, but you can also see what remains of the fortifications at the far left of the photo where an earthwork is clearly visible

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Visiting the RSPB reserve

Meadow Brown butterfly beautifully camouflaged at the RSPB Burton Mere nature reserve

Meadow Brown butterfly beautifully camouflaged

The RSPB reserve is very easy to find, although if you rely on that Google SatNav, please note that mine, having been asked to find “RSPB Burton” informed us we had reached our destination before we had actually arrived.  Fortunately, if you use the What3Words smartphone ap, which is stupendous (narrowing locations down to metre-sized locations) you can find it at ///readings.sideburns.handicaps.  Other details can be found on the RSPB website which includes the address, postcode, as well as details of the current ticket price and full details about what the nature reserve offers the visitor: https://www.rspb.org.uk/days-out/reserves/dee-estuary-burton-mere-wetlands.

The RSPB site has been very well thought out, and is very welcoming.  A single lane road from Puddington Lane has speed bumps and plenty of passing places, leading to a well-sized car park.  Entrance is via a building with a look-out over the estuary.  The entrance fee is £7.00 at the time of writing (July 2025), which helps to support the charity. There is a nice modern cafe on site, which sells tea, very good coffee, cold drinks and snacks. This is also where the toilets are located.  There is a small shop next to the ticket desk that sells gifts, books and bird food.

I have been following the RSPB Burton reserve on Twitter for a couple of years, without ever having managed to get there, and every day they take a photograph of their whiteboard to give you an idea of what species have been observed recently so that you know what to look out for.  You can find this at https://x.com/RSPB_BurtonMere.  There is a placeholder for them on Bluesky but no content just yet.

I rarely give an opinion about wheelchair use, but there were actually several wheelchairs users out and about today.  It would not be possible to get wheelchairs up to the Burton Point hill fort, or navigate them down one or two of the little tracks that run at the back of the reserve, but all of the coverts and hides are wheelchair friendly and, for both wheelchair users and children, the viewing windows extend from low to high for both seated and standing visitors.  The same comments go for those with unwilling legs.

Dogs are not permitted, and nor are drones.

Excerpt from the RSPB's leaflet about Burton Mere

Excerpt from the RSPB’s leaflet about Burton Mere, showing the top things to do on a seasonal basis

 

The Burton Marsh cycle and walking route 568 along the Dee estuary, Wirral

In 2013 a track across the wetlands from Connah’s Quay via Burton Point to Neston was opened.  As part of the Sustrans cycle network it is known as Route 568 or The Burton Marsh Greenway, and an information board at the point where the route meets Station Road (see map at end) says that this section is now also part of the “King Charles III England Coast Path.”  This section of the route, Burton Marsh, is partly made up of metalled lane, and partly boardwalk, and is a terrific walk.  I had never heard of it until I was standing in what remains of the hillfort on Burton Point headland, part of the RSPB reserve, and saw it passing almost at our feet and beyond into the distance.  It is an extraordinary sight, a mainly straight track across the landscape, and such a brilliant idea.

I parked on the section of Station Road that runs parallel to the estuary, which is part of the cycle route to Chester, and is separated from the rest of the Burton Marsh stretch of track by a gate to keep the sheep in.  There’s a map showing where the parking is located towards the end of this post.  This walks is all particularly beautiful on a sunny day with a blue sky stretching to the horizon. A shifting sky, which one moment produced sun and the next light shade, brought out the textures and colours for miles around.  Because the estuary is so flat and vast it can be very breezy or windy, which was no bad thing on a particularly sticky July day!

 

I headed through the gate in the Chester direction.  Starting out from this point you are on a metalled lane and have fields rising on your left, currently planted with palest yellow barley, whilst on your right are marshland habitats stretching all the way to the river Dee running along the Welsh side of the estuary, with every shade of green you can imagine, dotted with bright clumps of flowering plants and layer upon layer of different textures.

The barley fields are soon replaced by a fairly short red sandstone cliff edge, which has been heavily quarried over the centuries.  Where this red sandstone becomes much more uneven and comes out towards the lane, there is a sign on your right that explains that here are the remains of an Iron Age hillfort at the top of this small headland.  This is fenced off, as it is RSPB land.

Burton Point

The lane pulls away from the headland heading out into the wetlands, and soon you find yourself on a long section of boardwalk, which rattles splendidly when cyclists come along, with the marsh habitats either side of you.

 

On a clear day the views seem endless as far as the way to the Clwydian Range of Wales.  The track gives a sense of how big that landscape actually is, and why it is such a special environment for wildlife, with aquatic plant life as far as the eye can see, and bird life launching itself in and out at surprising and random moments.  As well as plenty of Canada and greylag geese, both on the ground and in the air, there were dozens of skylarks, terns flying overhead and birds of prey too high to identify.  Unsurprisingly there were plenty of seagulls too.  Beneath the surface, there must be an awful lot more going on.

The intention was to walk for an hour and a half, see where that took me, and then turn back to retrieve the car, but the sudden onset of fairly heavy rain both greyed out the landscape and blocked the view so I only walked for around half an hour before turning around.  Even during that short walk, the views were superb and the environment absorbing, and one of the nice things about this is that however far you want to go, and from wherever you start, it lends itself to any length of walk.  I was chatting to a man on a bike who had stopped to watch a group of greylag geese, who had cycled from the middle of Chester and was going to visit his father in Neston before turning around and coming back, and by contrast there were a couple who were just out walking a short way with their dog and a child in a pushchair.  All very civilized and a great way of introducing a wide range of people to an entirely new environment in a very easy way.


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Visiting from near Burton Point

You can access the track free of charge from anywhere along its route.  Because it is all on the flat, it is suitable not only for walkers and cyclists but those with pushchairs, buggies, and wheelchairs.  There was even a man on one of those push-it-with-one-leg adult scooters.  There are gates at interfaces with roads because of the sheep.  Also because of the sheep there are frequent signs asking owners to keep dogs on short leads.   Having been followed for about half a mile by one particular sheep, which stopped and looked fixedly at me every time I turned around to see if it was still following me, I can confirm that sheep are a very likely to be encountered.

I have only done this from just north of Burton Point so far, a short drive from the A540 via the village of Burton, and you can park on the straight section of Station Road that runs along the estuary, and where there is plenty of room to park along the road (what3words: ///recur.films.dream if you have the Google-compatible app on your smartphone).  Station Road, as it leads back inland, also has some parking along its edges near to the estuary.  I have highlighted the main parking-friendly area on Station Road in the pink box below.

Convenient road-side parking near Burton Point marked in pink. Source: Streetmap.co.uk

If you fancy starting in Chester, you can set off from the Little Roodee car park, go around the Roodee itself, and then follow the track to Connah’s Quay and go from there.  Fortunately you don’t have to depend on my finger-in-the-air directions, because Sustrans has its own website with full details for Route 568, which you can find here.  It shows the sections where the route meets roads, and where it intersects with other routes in the network.

 

 

Lord Leverhulme’s multifarious collections at the Lady Lever Art Gallery in Port Sunlight, Wirral

The Lady Lever Art Gallery is in a fabulous location within the village of Port Sunlight.  Port Sunlight was the brainchild of William Hesketh Lever, who in 1911 became Baronet Lord Lever, and in 1917 Baron Lord Leverhulme, honoured for his contributions to industry, commerce and the economy. He was also remembered, amongst other achievements, for his three years as a Liberal M.P., his philanthropy and his art collections.  Just off the A41, an unattractive stretch of the road characterized by untidy industrial and retail parks, the village remains a genuinely surprising and perfectly charming near-utopia of green spaces, wide boulevard-style roads and a splendid mixture of compact homes with gardens and small civic buildings, all built in a variety of architectural styles, all vernacular.  Port Sunlight, named for one of the soap brands that Lever produced (Sunlight Soap), was built for the workers in the nearby factory.  The Neoclassical architecture of the art gallery stands out as a monument in its own right.  It was, indeed, a memorial to Lever’s late wife Elizabeth Ellen Hulme, who died in 1913, and whom he always stated was his inspiration.  Although the gallery served the practical purpose of housing the best of Lord Lever’s private collections, which had outgrown his own numerous homes, it was more importantly built  on his philanthropic urge to improve conditions and provide educational facilities for the working class families of his factory employees.

The Lady Lever Art Gallery. Photograph by Rich Daley, Wikimedia

Originally the museum was designed to be entered from the front, its big entrance overlooking the boating pond and the long green avenue beyond towards the massive war memorial.  Today the boating pond has been drained of water, with warning signs to prevent people climbing in (Julian, with whom I visited, predicts that it will become a flower bed!).  There is plenty of free parking in front of the museum, as well as on the surrounding roads.  Today the entrance to the gallery is at the side, left as you face the front, next to a ramp that leads to the basement with its excellent café and its little shop.  There is no charge for visiting the permanent collection.  You are offered a  map at the desk, and we did find that this was helpful, although once you have worked out that it is organized by rooms around a main hall, with a circular room at each end, each linking together another set of rooms, it’s very straight-forward to navigate.  Having said that, looking at the map at home after the visit I realized that there were two upstairs galleries, each a corridor that flanks the main hall, which we missed.  According to the map these apparently display 19th and 20th century art.  Next time!

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Lion-headed table support, which would have been one of three or more. Roman. c.100AD

The easiest way to convey the overall impression of the Lady Lever Art Gallery is to characterize it as a miniature V&A.  Although there is a large collection of oil paintings and some water colours, there is also an emphasis on decorative arts including furniture, china, sculpture, tapestries, and embroidery.  The multinational character of the collection is impressive and begins, chronologically, with some Classical objects, as well as a couple of items from ancient Egypt.  Lord Lever had a great love of Chinese porcelain and his taste extended from the simplest of the blue and white patterns to the most elaborate and exotic polychrome extravaganzas.  There are a number of very fine Indian items, but perhaps not as many as there might have been given how long the East India Company had had its claws hooked into India’s social, economic and cultural landscape.  There is a small collection on display of ethnographic objects, although Lord Lever collected over 1000 pieces, and there are also a tiny number of ancient Egyptian objects, the bulk having been loaned to the Bolton Museum and Art Gallery.  He also collected a massive amount of Wedgwood, including fireplaces and pieces on which Josiah Wedgwood collaborated with George Stubbs.  Impressively, Lord Lever’s collection included Elizabethan and Jacobean furnishings, which are not always well represented in British museum and art gallery collections, and are really good examples of their types.

Oinochoe, used to pour wine into cups. Italian, in the style of a Corinthian vase. c.625-600BC.

12th Dynasty Egyptian stone components of an eye

Anglo-Indian commode, 1770-80. Engraved ivory veneered on a sandalwood carcase, originally fitted with specimen draws (now missing). An English design made at Vizagapatam.

English or German “Nonsuch” chest dated 1592 (corresponding to the late Elizabethan period)

Detail of an English or Dutch chair (one of a pair), 1690-1710, emulating the Jacobean style, with mermaids and the bust of a crowned queen

 

Wedgwood

1780-90 Wedgwood Caneware teapot

 

The wall decoration in the Adam Room

There are five rooms that skilfully recreate a particular period in all its details, from wall treatments and light fittings to furnishings and art works which.  These recreated rooms are splendid today but in the days before the National Trust and day-trips to aristocratic houses must have been a real revelation to visitors.  Examples are the Adam Room and the William and Mary Room.  Both Julian and I were horrified by the Napoleon Room;  no matter how hard I tried, I was unable to find anything in it of aesthetic merit in it, although the sheer excess of it all did make me grin.  There is always something to love in mad committent to a particular passion.

Sculpturally, Lord Lever’s taste extended from the Classical to the modern including, very surprisingly, a Joseph Epstein sculpture, and the variety of forms and styles is remarkable, although I have the impression that the quality is far more variable than in other art forms in the gallery.  There are, however, some very fine Roman cineraria (small stone caskets that hold ashes of the dead).

In oil painting, Lord Lever’s taste focused mainly, but not exclusively, on contemporary and slightly earlier artists including George Stubbs, Joseph Mallord William Turner, William Etty, Thomas Gainsborough, Joshua Reynolds, Elizabeth Vigée Le Brun and George Romney, as well as a notable selection of those from the Pre-Raphaelite school including William Holman Hunt, John Everett Millais, Dante Gabriel Rossetti and Edward Burne-Jones.

Dante Gabriel Rossetti’s “The Blessed Damozel.” There is an article about the painting on the Lady Lever Art Gallery website.

The glorious “The Falls of the Clyde” by Joseph Mallord William Turner; Lady Lever Art Gallery. Source: ArtUK

St James’s Palace. English School. Source: ArtUK

Emma Hamilton as a Bacchante. Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun.  Lord Lever’s tastes in art were usually consistent with popular opinion, but by modern standards some have not always stood the test of time. Although Vigée Le Brun produced some very accomplished pieces, others were not quite as refined.  Source: ArtUK

 

Painted mahogany writing desk by John Thomas Serres, 1792

There are some items that don’t fit any particular category, such as 19th century copies of earlier Chinese cabinets (sometimes on hideously elaborate and inappropriate stands), a late 18th century cupboard decorated with thousands of tiny curls of coloured paper (filigree), late 18th century painted writing desks, and a staggeringly huge cabinet full of draws made with different types of wood; as a whole it is too big and ornate by modern standards, but the individual woods are very beautiful.  There is also a room dedicated to Lord Leverhulme and his achievements, essentially the activities that paid for the village and the gallery, together with some more examples of his collecting interests, such as his ethnographic and ancient Egyptian items.  Another room addresses the challenges of conservation.

Cabinet with multiple draws for collecting samples. 1830, but inspired by Thomas Chippendale (18th century)

On the missing list, it is most notable that there are very few Middle Eastern items, and that there are very few Medieval pieces, presumably reflecting Lord Lever’s taste.  It was of particular interest that some of the pieces had been reworked once if not more times either to repair them, reconstruct missing elements or reinvent the original concept to make it more appealing to contemporary tastes.  One of the Roman cineraria, for example, had lost its lid and had been provided with a new one in the 19th century, complete with twin Egyptian-style sphinxes.

Roman cinerarium with a 19th century lid.

Detail of Elizabethan/Jacobean wood inlay cabinet

Because preferences in art and decorative arts are so very personal, and some of the items are very much more 19th century than 21st century taste, not everything will appeal to everyone, but the skill represented by all items of all types is consistently excellent.  A shift of focus from a complete piece of furniture to the individual components that make it up not only help to reveal that skill that went into an object, but also draw attention to themes, symbols and ideas that were built into these otherwise functional items.

A fairly disastrous mismatch of styles. The Dutch cabinet, inspired by Japanese art, dates to 1690. It rests on a an over-elaborately decorative baroque stand, dating to c.1680, inspired by Louis XIV solid silver furniture from Versailles

 

Some of the rooms have received significant investment since I was last at the museum around a decade ago, with modern displays, excellent lighting and good information boards.  My impression is that there are fewer items on display in the Chinese and Wedgwood rooms, but that the focus on quality and representative types means that visitors are able to fully digest the collection without being overwhelmed by the sheer volume.

Perhaps more than anything else, the Lady Lever Art Gallery is an insight into the self-conscious 19th century perception of the world, including its values, hopes and ambitions.  As one of the information boards points out, although Lever was a brilliant and in many ways an admirable man, he was also part of the story of colonization, with interests in the Belgian Congo. This aspect of his activities is now a new field of research at the gallery, helping to place the story of Lord Lever and his commercial and philanthropic activities into a more global and sometimes troubling context.

Click to enlarge.  Artworks in the “Fresh Perspectives” exhibition. Clockwise from top left: Snowden Through a Lens by Jack Thompson; Gaudi in Paint by Freya Kennedy; Japanese Landscape by Millie Lawrensen Beckett; Seafoam Seaside by Isabelle Stockdale; Triptych by Indy Evans

The gallery often has special exhibitions, and these are worth watching out for on the gallery’s What’s On web page.  At the moment there is a really thought-provoking exhibition, Fresh Perspectives (on until 27th Apr 2025), a tri-annual exhibition of inspiring artworks by young people from Wirral secondary schools.  Julian and I chatted a lot as we were going around this about the differences between how art is clearly being taught in these schools and our own experiences of school art classes.  As a professional artist, Julian was particularly impressed with how students are being encouraged to explore a wide range of approaches and express themselves using non-verbal methods.  Here there is a lot of mixed-media being used in hugely creative and imaginative ways to produce some truly original artworks.  There is a lot of inventive portraiture, but some of the semi-abstract pieces are particularly interesting, featuring multi-cultural themes and the use of overlays to provide focused viewpoints.  It was heartening to see that even those who might not be able to draw were enabled to express themselves using other media to assemble evocative, expressive artworks.  It is an absolutely excellent initiative, and we both found it truly inspiring.  The exhibition also provides the gallery with a very modern component that it otherwise lacks (for obvious reasons!).

William Hesketh Lever. Source: Wikipedia

Check the gallery’s web page on the National Museums Liverpool website for opening times and other information.  Access to the main collection is free of charge, but some special exhibitions may be charged for.  You can preview some of the works on display, and read some articles about objects in the collection on the Collections page.  Note that the website is one of those maddening matryoshka (nested Russian doll) affairs, with multiple museums nested within a general museums website, and it is very easy to find yourself clicking on the wrong thing and finding yourself going off the Lady Lever gallery pages and ending up somewhere else within the general museums website.

There is a terrific coffee shop in the basement, which does a range of sticky buns and cakes, breakfasts and lunches, and serves a range of hot and cold drinks (I can recommend the excellent latte), and where Julian and I set the worlds of decorative and fine arts to rights. It was interesting how not only the objects in Lord Lever’s collection but Lord Lever himself dominated many aspects of the conversation. The shop sells souvenirs, books, greetings cards, postcards, etc, and is beautifully presented.

Overall, a great visit.

“Frightened Horse.” Blue jasper by Wedgwood, modelled by George Stubbs, 1780-85.

Splendid walnut travelling case with gilt metal mountings. 1850-1870

Commode, fascinatingly made up of 18th century parts in about 1880.

English chest c.1600-1625 (Jacobean). Oak inlaid with holly, rosewood, fruitwoods, and possibly sycamore and holly.

Detail of the above chest:


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My battered copy of the site map

Overleigh Cemetery Self-Guided Geodiversity Tour

Many, many thanks to Paul Woods (Chester Green Badge Guide who leads the cemetery tour Stories in Stone) for sending me the scans of this leaflet by Cheshire RIGS and the Northwest Geodiversity Partnership, apparently published in 2012.  It looks at the most common types of stone used, gives some geological details about it, and discusses how some of it responds to environmental conditions.  I’ve shared the JPEGs below but I have also turned it into a PDF that you can download by clicking here.  I cannot wait to take it for a test drive!

Lecture: Rosemary’s Baby: Adventures and Insights from Contributing to the Corpus of Anglo-Saxon Stone Sculpture in England

Rosemary’s Baby: Adventures and Insights from Contributing to the Corpus of Anglo-Saxon Stone Sculpture in England

Paul Everson, Keele University

Tom Pickles, Chair of Chester Archaeological Society, introducing Paul Everson

On Saturday 4th May, in the last in-person Chester Archaeological Society lecture of the 2023/24 spring season in the Grosvenor Museum’s elegant lecture theatre, archaeologist and landscape historian Paul Everson introduced members and guests to the “Corpus of Anglo-Saxon Stone Sculpture (CASSS)”  project inaugurated in 1977 by Professor Dame Rosemary Cramp (https://corpus.awh.durham.ac.uk/).  With his long-time collaborator David Stocker, Mr Everson has published three volumes of the CASSS, and in this lecture explained how the decades-long project has not only provided us with a definitive catalogue of decorated stonework of the period but also stimulated new avenues of thought.

Professor Dame Rosemary Cramp’s name is synonymous with Early Medieval sculpture, combining her expertise in Old and Middle English with archaeological research, beginning her own excavations at Monkwearmouth in 1957.  Having identified an opportunity to create a corpus of early stone sculpture after working on examples in Durham Cathedral and the Wearmouth and Jarrow monastic sites, she developed a standardized format for the publication of the CASSS, and a “grammar” of Anglo-Saxon ornament (also used for knitting!). This enables each volume of the corpus to be used in the same way and, where required, directly compared, making the series invaluable as a cohesive research tool.  The first volume to be published was County Durham and Northumberland in 1984, and the last two, currently being compiled, are volumes 15, Leicester, Notrh Rutland and Soke Peterborough and volume 16, Norfolk and Suffolk.

Some examples of the types of Anglo-Saxon sculpture included in the Corpus (slide from Paul Everson’s presentation)

The corpus of Anglo-Saxon carvings, dating from the 7th to the 11th centuries and much of it previously unpublished, includes crosses, grave markers and grave covers, architectural detailing and inscriptions, both in original locations and in relocated positions. The compilation of the Corpus required the establishment of procedures for locating and recording both known and previously unidentified carvings. A mixture of archaeological, field survey and historical approaches are employed.  All churches in a Corpus volume area are inspected, inside and out.  Sketches, photographs, measurements and notes ensure that full details were recorded.  Lost items have been rediscovered by tracing records in publications produced by antiquarian and early scholars.  Antiquarian and early scholarship are always described and credited in the first chapter of each volume, reflecting their value.

As with most archaeological data, Anglo-Saxon sculptures often exist only in fragments and this requires virtual reconstruction work so that these too can be understood as whole pieces and included in the corpus.  It was interesting to note that, like Roman tombstones, the ornament was picked out in bright paints, exemplified by a replica from Neston which has been rendered in full colour, shown on the above slide.

Bringing to together substantial data across each area has led to an exploration distribution patterns, with some specific types distributed widely across a county and others being more localized, leading to a search for explanations  An example is Raunds Furnells where a small cluster of 10th century stone monuments may help to explain similar finds in east England, perhaps representing the founding families of churches, which in turn may represent the first stages of the development of the parochial system.  “Exceptional collections” also occur, where large numbers of sculptural stones are found in a particular location, and it has been found that these tend to be near river sites where markets were held, and where merchant communities with disposable incomes concentrated, such as Chester where an impressive collection is retained at St John’s Church, and at Neston on the Wirral.

The Hedda Stone, Peterborough Abbey

A surprising finding was that there may have been very little pre-Viking quarrying of new stone.  Instead, earlier stone masonry in church architecture and graves was often recycled and has become a much-debated topic.  Some of these re-uses are pragmatic and practical, making use of usefully shaped pieces.  The re-use of Roman masonry could explain, for example, some puzzling holes in the famous early Medieval Hedda Stone at Peterborough Cathedral.  Another form of recycling is described as “iconic,” where earlier scenes are appropriated and re-positioned in a new cultural context.  Interpretation of specific instances of recycling differ, and the resulting debates, although usually amicable, may be very animated! Discourse provided by differing perspectives, specialisms and sub-disciplines and by a new generation of researchers ensure that research into Anglo-Saxon sculpture continues to be a lively field.

At the other end of the chronological scale, studies of post-Conquest sculpture have helped to elucidate the continuity of earlier medieval traditions, and this too is an important research vector for understanding the period when Saxon and Norman interests vied for supremacy.

Making use of database technologies, an important leg of future work will include the Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC)-funded “Worked in Stone” project which will re-digitize all the volumes to make them into a fully searchable database, an important new initiative that will be hosted by the Archaeological Data Service (ADS) and will be free to access.).

The challenges of interpreting different syncretic and iconic schemes. (slide from Paul Everson’s presentation)

An enthusiastic round of applause marked the end of the lecture.  There was the opportunity for questions, and the audience took full advantage.  The topic of recycled Roman stonework lead to some discussion about how identity and meaning may have been syncretized or replaced.  Another question concerned how future discoveries might be incorporated into the corpus, and although nothing formal yet exists, the topic is obviously on the minds of those looking to the future of this research area.  At the end of the questions the audience again applauded loudly in appreciation.

By the end of the lecture, it had become clear that the loss of Dame Rosemary last year at the age of 93, and the publication of the final two volumes of CASSS will not draw any sort of line under the research into Anglo-Saxon sculpture.  The Corpus continues to be provide an invaluable resource.  The digitization of the corpus will make it readily available to support a new generation of researchers as they develop new ideas and perspectives and explore new directions. It is clear that in spite of her passing away last year, this project remains very much “Rosemary’s Baby.”

The first twelve volumes of the CASSS are available online at https://corpus.awh.durham.ac.uk/.  For Anglo-Saxon stone sculpture in Cheshire see volume IX. For a paper produced as an offshoot of the corpus work, see the study of the social background of the St John’s (Chester) crosses in the Members Area of the CAS website (https://chesterarchaeolsoc.org.uk/members-area/): P Everson & D Stocker. Transactions on the Dee: the ‘exceptional’ collection of early sculpture from St John’s, Chester
In: Cambridge, E & Hawkes, J eds. Crossing boundaries: interdisciplinary approaches to the art, material culture, language and literature of the early medieval world. Essays presented to Professor Emeritus Richard N. Bailey, OBE, in honour of his eightieth birthday. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 2017, 160–78.

Finally, the international ‘Worked in Stone: Early Medieval Sculpture in its International Context’ conference  takes place next year in Durham (https://corpus.awh.durham.ac.uk/wis.php).

Many thanks to Paul Everson for such am engaging and enlightening lecture.

Paul Everson in the Grosvenor Museum lecture theatre