When I was driving back home from Peterborough after a visit to the small city’s stunning Romanesque cathedral (see part 1) I took a detour to see the exquisite Grade 2 listed Georgian St Matthews Church on Rutland Water, also known as Normanton Church, near Oakham.  It is about half an hour’s drive from Peterborough.  The interior was unavailable due to a wedding, which was a shame as I have a real weakness for Georgian churches, but it is always good to see a church earning its keep today.  Even without seeing the interior, it was well worth the detour just to enjoy the sight of the ridiculously lovely church on its little artificial island.

Source: Normanton Church before the flooding of the valley. Source: Rutland Photographic

The church used to sit on dry land, overlooking the Rutland valley on the site of a medieval church.  This was largely rebuilt in 1764 by Sir Gilbert Heathcote, although the original tower was retained.  The new tower and the western portico were built in the 1820s. I particularly like the way that the open architecture of the tower provides visibility of the views beyond, helping it to blend in with its environment.  Even though the church and its tower were built in two separate phases, the integrated whole works splendidly.

The future of St Matthew’s looked very precarious when plans were made for the Rutland valley to be flooded to create a reservoir to meet the demands of a growing population, which was carried out in the 1970s.  It was predicted that the water would reach the level of the little church, even though it sat on land near the top of the valley, submerging its foundations.  It was only rescued from watery decay when there was a public outcry.

You can read the brief story of its salvation at the Normanton Church Wedding website, but essentially the bottom of the church was filled with rubble and provided with a concrete floor to stabilize it against water damage at its base.  With a little isthmus from this artificial island connecting it to the land at the edge of the lake, the church was once again accessible and, unsurprisingly given its charming personality and its wonderful scenic setting, is a very popular wedding venue and visitor attraction.  It is quite simply delightful.

The history of  the church is shown on the Historic England website, apparently via Pevsner, as follows:

Former church. 1826-9 and 1911. By Thomas Cundy, Sen. and Jun., and J.B. Gridley of London. Ashlar and balustraded slate roof. W tower with W portico and nave with apse. Now entirely filled to half-way up previous wall height for the purposes of the reservoir which encircles church. In classical style. Portico, vestibule and tower of 1826-9 with semi-circle of 4 Ionic columns for the portico and 2 piers and 2 further columns in antis either side outside the vestibule. Balustrade above vestibule and tower over. This is open and on circular plan with 4 free-standing Corinthian columns in NE etc. directions, with Corinthian entablature over and sloping roof with pine cone finial: the whole close to the towers at St. John’s, Smith Square, Westminster. Nave and apse of 1911, by Gridley, of 3 leaded windows either side. Stone shouldered architraves with chamfered lintels and prominent keystones. Windows framed by order of Ionic pilasters with entablature and balustrade over. Niche on E end. N doorway with 2 leaved door. Inside, the nave cove has 3 arches with decorated coffers and the apse simple plasterwork. Pevsner.

There is a large car park for visits to the church and other lake attractions, with barriers, and has a pay point.  The church is along a short walk from the car park, along a metalled path, which takes about 5 to 10 minutes.